princes; and it would be easier to find a sovereign where he pretends it was during the reign of the kungs, uniting exactly the opposite characteristics, than one as far as the Arician grove, and then makes it recede possessed of all the happy qualities ascribed to this to its old site with the shrinking city. The tufo, or emperor. "When he mounted the throne," says the pumice, which the poet prefers to marble, is the subnistorian Dion," he was strong in body, he was vigor-stance composing the bank in which the grotto is sunk. ous in mind; age had impaired none of his faculties;| The modern topographerst find in the grotto the he was altogether free from envy and from detraction; statue of the nymph and nine niches for the Muses, and he honoured all the good, and he advanced them; and a late traveller has discovered that the cave is restored on this account they could not be the objects of his to that simplicity which the poet regretted had been fear, or of his hate; he never listened to informers; he exchanged for injudicious ornament. But the headless gave not way to his anger; he abstained equally from statue is palpably rather a male than a nymph, and has unfair exactions and unjust punishments; he had rather none of the attributes ascribed to it at present visible. be loved as a man than honoured as a sovereign; he The nine Muses could hardly have stood in six niches; was affable with his people, respectful to the senate, and Juvenal certainly does not allude to any individual and universally beloved by both; he inspired none with cave.§ Nothing can be collected from the satirist but dread but the enemies of his country." that somewhere near the Porta Capena was a spot in which it was supposed Numa held nightly consultations with his nymph, and where there was a grove and a sacred fountain, and fanes once consecrated to the Muses; and that from this spot there was a descent to the valley of Egeria, where were several artificial caves. It is clear that the statues of the Muses made no part of the decoration which the satirist thought misplaced in these caves; for he expressly assigns other fanes (delubra) to these divinities above the valley, and moreover tells us that they had been ejected to make room for the Jews. In fact, the little temple, now called that of Bacchus, was formerly thought to belong to the Muses, and Nardini|| places them in a poplar grove, which was in his time above the valley. 55. Rienzi, last of Romans. Stanza cxiv. line 5. The name and exploits of Rienzi must be familiar to the reader of Gibbon. Some details and inedited manuscripts relative to this unhappy hero will be seen in the Illustrations of the IVth Canto. 56. Egeria! sweet creation of some heart Stanza cxv. lines 1, 2, and 3. The respectable authority of Flaminius Vacca would It is probable, from the inscription and position, that incline us to believe in the claims of the Egerian grotto. the cave now shown may be one of the "artificial He assures us that he saw an inscription in the pave- caverns," of which, indeed, there is another a little way ment, stating that the fountain was that of Egeria, higher up the valley, under a tuft of alder bushes: but dedicated to the nymphs. The inscription is not there a single grotto of Egeria is a mere modern invention, at this day; but Montfaucon quotes two lines of Ovid grafted upon the application of the epithet Egerian to from a stone in the Villa Giustiniani, which he seems these nymphea in general, and which might send us to to think had been brought from the same grotto. look for the haunts of Numa upon the banks of the This grotto and valley were formerly frequented in Thames. summer, and particularly the first Sunday in May, by the modern Romans, who attached a salubrious quality to the fountain which trickles from an orifice at the bottom of the vault, and, overflowing the little pools, creeps down the matted grass into the brook below. The brook is the Ovidian Almo, whose name and qualities are lost in the modern Aquataccio. The valley itself is called Valle di Caffarelli, from the dukes of that name who made over their fountain to the Pallavicini, with sixty rubbia of adjoining land. There can be little doubt that this long deil is the Egerian valley of Juvenal, and the pausing place of Umbritius, notwithstanding the generality of his commentators have supposed the descent of the satirist and his friend to have been into the Arician grove, where the nymph met Hippolitus, and where she was more peculiarly worshipped. The step from the Porta Capena to the Alban hill, fifteen miles distant, would be too considerable, unless we were to believe in the wild conjecture of Vossius, who makes that gate travel from its present station, "Hujus tantum memorie delatum est, ut, usque ad nostram ætatem LVGVSTO MELIOR. TRAJANO." Eutrop. Brev. Hist. Rom. non aliter in Senatu principibus acclamatur, nisi, FELICIOR lib. vill. cap. v. * Τῷ τε γὰρ σωματι ερρωτο....... και τη ψυχή ήκμαζεν, ως μηθ' ὑπὸ γήρως ἀμβλύνεσθαι . . . . καὶ οὔτ' ἐφθονεί ούτε καθηρεί τινὰ, ἀλλὰ καὶ πάνυ πάντας τοὺς ἀγαθοὺς ἐτίμα καὶ ἐμεγάλυνε· καὶ διὰ τοῦτο οὔτε ἐφοβεῖτό τίνα αὐτῶν, οὔτε ἐμίσει . . διαβολαῖς τε ηκιστα ἐπιστεύε, καὶ ὀργῇ ηκιστα ἐδουλοῦτο· τῶν τε χρημάτων τῶν ἀλλωτρίων ίσα καὶ φόνων τῶν ἀδίκων ἀπείχετο .... φιλούμενός τε οὖν ἐπ' αὐτοῖς μᾶλλον η τιμώμενος έχαιρε, καὶ τω τε δημῳ μετ' Επιείκειας συνεγένετο, καὶ τῇ γηρουσία σε μυπορεπῶς ὁμίλει, αγάπη rds név não Geods dè undivi, many modulois v. Hist. Rom. lib. Ixviii. cap. vi. et vii. tom. ii. p. 1123, 1124, edit. Hamb. 1750. Pero lontano dal dette luogo si scende ad un casaletto, del qualen sono Padroni li Cafarelli, che con questo mme è chiamato il luogo; vi è una fontana sotto una gran voita antica, che al presente si gode, e li Romaani vi vanno l'estate a ricrearsi; nel pavimento di essa fonte si legge n un epitaffio essere quella la fonte di Egeria, dedicata alle ninfe, e questa, dice l'epitaffio, essere la medesima fonte in cui fu convertita." Memorie, &c. ap. Nardini, pag. 13. He does not give the inscription. In villa Justiniana extat ingens lapis quadratus solidus in quo zulpta hæc duo Ovidii carmina suut : geria est que præbet aquas dea grata Camanis Illa Numa conjunx consiliumque fuit. Qui lapis videtur ex eodem Egeria fonte, aut ejus vicinia isthuc comportatus." Diarium Italic. p 153. Our English Juvenal was not seduced into mistranslation by his acquaintance with Pope: he carefully preserves the correct plural— · "Thence slowly winding down the vale, we view The Egerian grota; oh, how unlike the true!" The valley abounds with springs,¶ and over these springs, which the Muses might haunt from their neigh bouring groves, Egeria presided: hence she was said to supply them with water; and she was the nymph of the grottos through which the fountains were taught to flow. The whole of the monuments in the vicinity of the Egerian valley have received names at will, which have been changed at will. Venuti** owns he can see no traces of the temples of Jove, Saturn, Juno, Venus, and Diana, which Nardini found, or hoped to find. The mutatorium of Caracalla's circus, the temple of Honour and Virtue, the temple of Bacchus, and, above all, the temple of the god Rediculus, are the antiquaries' despair. The circus of Caracalla depends on a medal of that emperor cited by Fulvius Ursinus, of which the reverse shows a circus, supposed, however, by some to represent the Circus Maximus. It gives a very good idea of that place of exercise. The soil has been but little raised, if we may judge from the small cellular structure at the end of the Spina, which was probably the chapel of the god Comus. This cell is half beneath the soil, • De Magnit. Vet. Rom. ap. Græv. Ant. Rom. tom. iv. p. 1507. ↑ Echinard, Descrizione di Roma e dell' agro Romano, corretto dell Abate Venuti, in Roma, 1750. They believe in the grotto and n Simulacro di questo fonte, essendovi sculpite le acque a pie di esso." 1 Classical Tour, chap. vi. p. 217. vol. ii. Substitit ad veteres arcus, madidamque Capenam, Hic ubi nocturnæ Numa constituebat amica. Undique e solo aquæ scaturiunt." Nardini, lit iii. cap. iii. ** Echinard, &c. Cic. cit. p. 297, 298. as it must have been in the circus itself, for Dionysius* could not be persuaded to believe that this divinity was the Roman Neptune, because his altar was under ground. 57. Yet let us ponder boldly. Stanza cxxvii. line 1. my be synonymous with Fortune and with Fate ;* but it 59. I see before me the Gladiator lie. Stanza cx line 1. Whether the wonderful statue which suggested this Winkelmann's criticism has been stoutly maintained, At al events," says the author of the Academical image be a laquearian gladiator, which in spite of Questions, "I trust, whatever may be the fate of own speculations, that philosophy will regain that or whether it be a Greek herald, as that great antiquary estimation which it ought to possess. The free and positively asserted, or whether it is to be thought a philosophic spirit of our nation has been the theme of Spartan or barbarian shield-bearer, according to the admiration to the world. This was the proud distinc-opinion of his Italian editor,§ it must assuredly seem a "a wounded man dying who perfectly expressed what tion of Englishmen, and the luminous source of all copy of that masterpiece of Ctesilaus which represented their glory. Shall we then forget the manly and dignified there remained of life in him." Montfaucon and Mafsentiments of our ancestors, to prate in the language fei** thought it the identical statue; but that statue was of the mother or the nurse about our good old preju- of bronze. The gladiator was once in the villa Ludodices? This is not the way to defend the cause of is an entire restoration of Michael Angelo.†† truth. It was not thus that our fathers maintained it vizi, and was bought by Clement XII. The right arm in the brilliant periods of our history. Prejudice may be trusted to guard the outworks for a short space of time while reason slumbers in the citadel; but if the latter sink into a lethargy, the former will quickly erect standard for herself. Philosophy, wisdom, and liberty, support each other: he who will not reason is a bigot; he who cannot, is a fool; and he who dares not, is a slave." Preface, p. xiv, xv. vol. i. 1805. the 58. Great Nemesis! Here, where the ancient paid thee homage long. 60. He, their sire, Butcher'd to make a Roman holiday. Stanza cxli. lines 6 and 7. Gladiators were of two kinds, compelled and volunslaves sold for that purpose; from culprits; from bartary; and were supplied from several conditions: from barian captives either taken in war, and, after being led in triumph, set apart for the games, or those seized and condemned as rebels; also from free citizens, some fighting for hire (auctorati,) others from a depraved ambition: at last even knights and senators were exhiStanza cxxxii. lines 2 and 3. We read in Suetonius, that Augustus, from a warning bited, a disgrace of which the first tyrant was naturally received in a dream,† counterfeited, once a year, the the first inventor. In the end, dwarfs, and even beggar, sitting before the gate of his palace with his women, fought; an enormity prohibited by Severus. hand hollowed and stretched out for charity. A statue Of these the most to be pitied undoubtedly were the formerly in the Villa Borghese, and which should be barbarian captives; and to this species a Christian now at Paris, represents the Emperor in that posture writer§§ justly applies the epithet " innocent," to distinof supplication. The object of this self degradation was guish them from the professional gladiators. Aurelian appeasement of Nemesis, the perpetual attendant on and Claudius supplied great numbers of these unfortu good fortune, of whose power the Roman conquerors nate victims; the one after his triumph, and the other were also reminded by certain symbols attached to on the pretext of a rebellion. No war, says Lipsius,¶¶ their cars of triumph. The symbols were the whip and was ever so destructive to the human race as these the crotalo, which were discovered in the Nemesis of sports. In spite of the laws of Constantine and Constans, the Vaucan. The attitude of beggary made the above gladiatorial shows survived the old established religion statue pass for that of Belisarius: and until the criti-more than seventy years; but they owed their final cism of Winkelmann had rectified the mistake, one extinction to the courage of a Christian. In the year fiction was called in to support another. It was the 404, on the kalends of January, they were exhibiting same fear of the sudden termination of prosperity that the shows in the Flavian amphitheatre before the usual made Amasis king of Egypt warn his friend Polycrates immense concourse of people. Almachius or Telemaof Samos, that the gods loved those whose lives were chus, an eastern monk, who had travelled to Rome chequered with good and evil fortunes. Nemesis was intent on his holy purpose, rushed into the midst of the supposed to lie in wait particularly for the prudent; arena, and endeavoured to separate the combatants. that is for those whose caution rendered them accessible only to mere accidents: and her first altar was raised on the banks of the Phrygian sepus by Adrastus, probably the prince of that name who killed the son of Croesus by mistake. Hence the goddess was called Adrastea.§ The Roman Nemesis was sacred and august: there was a temple to her in the Palatine under the name of Rhamnusia: so great indeed was the propensity of the ancients to trust to the revolution of events, and to believe in the divinity of Fortune, that in the same Palatine there was a temple to the Fortune of the day. This is the last superstition which retains its hold over the human heart; and from concentrating in one object the credulity so natural to man, has always appeared strongest in those unembarrassed by other articles of belief. The antiquaries have supposed this goddess to Antiq. Rom. lib. i.cap. xxxi. Casaubon, in the note, refers to 7 Storia delle Arti, &c. lib. xii cap. iii. tom. ii. p. 22. Visconti calls Dict. de Bayle, article Adrastea. DEAE NEMESI See Questiones Romanæ, &c. ap. Grev. Antiq. Roman. tom. v. p. 942. there are three Latin and one Greek inscription to Nemesis, and others See also Muratori, Nov. Thesaur. Inscrip. Vet. tom. I. p. 85, 89, where to Fate. By the Abate Bracci, dissertazione supra un clipeo votivo, &c. Preface, which it does not appear the gladiators themselves ever used. Note A, pag. 1. who accounts for the cord round the neck, but not for the horn, Storia delle Arti, tom. ii. p. 25. Either Polifontes, herald of Laius, killed by Edipus; or Cereas, § Storia, &c. tom. i. p. 207. Not. (A.) anima." + Mus. Capitol. tom. ili. p. 154. erlit. 1755. 11 Julius Cæsar, who rose by the fall of the aristocracy, brought Farivs Leptinus and A. Calenus upon the arena. $$ Tertullian, "certe quidem et innocentes gladiatores in ludum veni. Vopiscus, in vit. Aurel, and in vit. Claud. ibid. unt, et voluptatis pubiice hostis fiant." Just. Lips. Saturn. Sermon. lib. i. cap. iii. Credo imo scio nullum bellum tantam cladem vastitiemque generi humano intulisse, quam hos ad voluptatem ludos." Just. Lips. i.lib i. cap. xii 63. While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand. The practor Alypus, a person incredibly attached to larly gratified by that decree of the senate, which en These games, gave instant orders to the gladiators to bed him to wear a wreath of laurel on all occasiona stay him. and Telemachus gained the crown of mar- He was anxious, not to show that he was the conqueror Tyrdom, and the title of saint, which surely has never of the world, but to hide that he was bali. A stranger either before or since been awarded for a more noble at Rome would hardly have guessed at the motive, r exploit. Honorius immediately abolished the shows, should we without the help of the historian. which were never afterwards revived. The story is old by Theodoret and Cassiodorus, and seems worthy of credit notwithstanding its place in the Roman martyrology. Besides the torrents of blood which flowed at the funerals, in the amphitheatres, the circus, the forums, and other public places, gladiators were introduced at feasts, and tore each other to pieces amidst the supper tables, to the great delight and applause of the guests. Yet Lipsius permits himself to suppose the loss of courage, and the evident degeneracy of mankind, to be nearly connected with the abolition of these bloody spectacles.|| 61. Here, where the Roman million's blame or praise This is quoted in the Decline and Fall of the Romiau Empire; and a notice on the Coliseum may be seen in the Historical Illustrations to the IVth Canto of Childe Harold. 64. spared and blest by time. Stanza cxlvi. line 3. "Though plundered of all its brass, except the ring which was necessary to preserve the aperture above, though exposed to repeated fires, though sometimes flooded by the river, and always open to the rain, no monument of equal antiquity is so well preserved as this rotunda. It passed with little alteration from the Pagan into the present worship; and so convenient were its niches for the Christian altar, that Michae. Angelo, ever studious of ancient beauty, introduced their design as a model in the Catholic church." Forsyth's Remarks, &c. on Italy, p. 137. sec. edit. 65. And they who feel for genius may repose The Pantheon has been made a receptacle for the busts of modern great, or, at least, distinguished, men. The flood of light which once fell through the large orb above on the whole circle of divinities, now shines on a numerous assemblage of mortals, some one or two of whom have been almost deified by the veneration of When one gladiator wounded another, he shouted, "he has it," "hoc habet," or "habet." The wounded combatant dropped his weapon, and advancing to the edge of the arena, supplicated the spectators. If he had fought well, the people saved him; if otherwise, or as they happened to be inclined, they turned down their thumbs, and he was slain. They were occasionally so savage that they were impatient if a combat lasted longer than ordinary without wounds or death. The emperor's presence generally saved the vanquished: and it is recorded as an instance of Caracalla's ferocity, that he sent those who supplicated him for life, in a spectacle at Nicomedia, to ask the people; in other words, handed them over to be slain. A similar ceremony is observed at the Spanish bull-fights. The magistrate presides; and after the horsemen and piccadores have fought the bull, the matadore steps forward and bows to him for permission to kill the animal. If their countrymen. the bull has done his duty by killing two or three horses, er a man, which last is rare, the people interfere with shouts, the ladies wave their handkerchiefs, and the animal is saved. The wounds and death of the horses are accompanied with the loudest acclamations, and many gestures of delight, especially from the female portion of the audience, including those of the gentlest blood. Every thing depends on habit. The author of Childe Harold, the writer of this note, and one or two other Englishmen, who have certainly in other days borne the sight of a pitched battle, were, during the summer of 1809, in the governor's box at the great amphitheatre of Santa Maria, opposite to Cadiz. The death of one or two horses completely satisfied their curiosity. A gentleman present, observing them shudder and look pale, noticed that unusual reception of so delightful a sport to some young ladies, who stared. and smiled, and continued their applauses as another horse fell bleeding to the ground. One bull killed three horses off his own horns. He was saved by acclamations, which were redoubled when it was known he belonged to a priest. An Englishman, who can be much pleased with seeing two men beat themselves to pieces, cannot hear to look at a horse galloping round an arena with his bowels trailing on the ground, and turns from the spectacle and the spectators with horror and disgust. 62. Like laurels on the bald first Casar's head. Suetonius informs us that Julius Caesar was particu Augustinus (lib. vi. confess. cap. viii.) "Alypium suum gladiatori spec tacull inhiatu incredibiliter abreptum," scribit. ɔ. lib. 1. cap. xii. ↑ Hist. Eccles. cap. xxvi. lib. v. 1 Cassiod, Tripartita, I. x. c. xi. Saturn. ib. ib. Baronius, ad. ann. et in notis ad Martyrol. Rom. 1. Jan. SeeMarangoni delle memorie sacre e profane dell' Anfiteatro Flavio, p. 25. edit. 1745. Quod non tu Lipsi momentum aliquod habuisse censes ad virtu tem? Magnum. Tempora nostra, nosque ipsos videamus. Oppidum acce num alterumve captum, dreptum est tumultus circa nos, non in nobis: et tamen concidimas et turbamur. Ubi robur, ubi tot per annos meditata sapientiæ studia? ubi ile animus qui possit dicere, si fractus ilabatur orbis?" &c. ibid lib. 1 cap. xxv The prototype of Mr. Win tham's panegyric ou bull-baiting." 66. There is a dungeon, in whose dim drear light. Stanza cxlviii. line 1. This and the three next stanzas allude to the story of the Roman daughter, which is recalled to the traveller by the site, or pretended site, of that adventure, now shown at the church of St. Nicholas in carcere. The difficulties attending the full belief of the tale are stated in Historical Illustrations, &c. 67. Turn to the Mole, which Hadrian rear'd on high. Stanza clii. line 1. The castle of St. Angelo. See-Historical Illustra tions. 68. Stanza cliii. This and the six next stanzas have a reference to the church of St. Peter's. For a measurement of the comparative length of this basilica, and the other great churches of Europe, see the pavement of St. Peter's, and the classical Tour through Italy, vol. ii. pag. 125 et seq. chap. iv. 69. the strange fate Which tumbles mightiest sovereigns. Stanza clxxi. lines 6 and 7. Mary died on the scaffold; Elizabeth of a broken heart; Charles V. a hermit; Louis XIV. a bankrup in means and glory; Cromwell of anxiety; and, "the greatest is behind," Napoleon lives a prisoner. To these sovereigns a long but superfluous list might be added of names equally illustrious and unhappy. 70. Lo, Nemi! navell'd in the woody hills. Stanza clxxii. line 1. The village of Nemi was near the Arician retreat of Egeria, and from the shades which embosomed the temple of Diana, has preserved to this day its distine ove appellation of The Grove. Nemi is but an even-nile, and by following up the rivulet to the pretended ing's ride from the comfortable inn of Albano. 71. The Tiber winds, and the broad ocean laves Stanza clxxiv. lines 2, 3, and 4. The whole declivity of the Alban hill is of unrivalled neauty, and from the convent on the highest point, which has succeeded to the temple of the Latian Jupiter, the prospect embraces all the objects alluded to in the cited stanza; the Mediterranean; the whole scene of the latter half of the Eneid, and the coast from beyond the mouth of the Tiber to the headland of Circæum and the Cape of Terracina. The site of Cicero's villa may be supposed either at the Grotta Ferrata, or at the Tusculum of Prince Lucien Buonaparte. Bandusia, you come to the roots of the higher mountain Gennaro. Singularly enough, the only spot of ploughed land in the whole valley is on the knoll where this Ban ausia rises. "....tu frigus amabile Præbes, et pecori vago." The peasants show another spring near the mosaic pavement which they call "Oradina," and which flows down the hills into a tank, or mill-dam, and then trickles over into the Digentia. But we must not hope the monks. "To trace the Muses upwards to their spring" by exploring the windings of the romantic valley in search of the Bandusian fountain. It seems strange that any one should have thought Bandusia a fountain of the Digentia-Horace has not let drop a word of it; The former was thought some years ago the actual and this immortal spring has in fact been discovered in site, as may be seen from Middleton's Life of Cicero. possession of the holders of many good things in Italy, At present it has lost something of its credit, except for It was attached to the church of St. Gerthe Domenichinos. Nine monks of the Greek order vais and Protais near Venusia, where it was most likely to live there, and the adjoining villa is a cardinal's sum- be found. We shall not be so lucky as a late traveller mer-house. The other villa, called Rufinella, is on the in finding the occasional pine still pendent on the poetic summit of the hill above Frascati, and many rich re-villa. There is not a pine in the whole valley, but there mains of Tusculum have been found there, besides seventy-two statues of different merit and preservation, and seven busts. From the same eminence are seen the Sabine hills, embosomed in which lies the long valley of Rustica. There are several circumstances which tend to esta ries. pave are two cypresses, which he evidently took, or mistook. for the tree in the ode. The truth is, that the pine is now, as it was in the days of Virgil, a garden tree, and it was not at all likely to be found in the craggy accliviof them in the orchard close above his farm, imme ties of the valley of Rustica. Horace probably had one diately overshadowing his villa, not on the rocky heights at some distance from his abode. The tourist may have easily supposed himself to have seen this pine figured in the above cypresses, for the orange and lemon tr which throw such a bloom over his description of e royal gardens at Naples, unless they have been since displaced, were assuredly only acacias and other on blish the identity of this valley with the "Ustica" of Horace; and it seems possible that the mosaic Lent which the peasants uncover by throwing up the earth of a vineyard may belong to his villa. Rustica is pronounced short, not according to our stress uponUstice cut antis."-It is more rational to think that we are wrong than that the inhabitants of this secluded valley have changed their tone in this word. The addi-mon garden shrubs. The extreme disappointment tion of the consonant prefixed is nothing: yet it is necesexperienced by choosing the Classical Tourist as a sary to be aware that Rustica may be a modern name guide in Italy must be allowed to find vent in a few which the peasants may have caught from the antiqua-tradiction, will be confirmed by every one who has observations, which, it is asserted without fear of conThis author is in fact one of the most inaccurate, unsaselected the same conductor through the same countrytisfactory writers that have in our times attained a temporary reputation, and is very seldom to be trusted even when he speaks of objects which he must be presumed to have seen. His errors, from the simple exaggeration to the downright misstatement, are so frequent as to induce a suspicion that he had either never visited the spots described, or had trusted to the fidelity of former writers. Indeed the Classical Tour has every characteristic of a mere compilation of former notices, strung together upon a very slender thread of personal observation, and swelled out by those decorations which are so easily supplied by a systematic adoption of all the common places of praise, applied to every thing, and therefore signifying nothing. The villa, or the mosaic, is in a vineyard on a knoll covered with chestnut trees. A stream runs down the valley, and although it is not true, as saia in the guide books, that this stream is called Licenza, yet there is a village on a rock at the head of the valley which is so denominated, and which may have taken its name from the Digentia. Licenza contains 700 inhabitants. On a peak a little way beyond is Civitella, containing 300. On the banks of the Anio, a little before you turn up into Valle Rustica, to the left, about an hour from the villa, is a town called Vicovaro, another favourable coinci dence with the Varia of the poet. At the end of the valley, towards the Anio, there is a bare hill, crowned with a little town called Bardela. At the foot of this hill the rivulet of Licenza flows, and is almost absorbed in a wide sandy bed bofore it reaches the Anio. Nothing can be more fortunate for the lines of the poet, whether in a metaphorical or direct sense: "Me quotiens reficit gelidus Digentia rivus, Quem Mandela bibit rugosus frigore pagus." The stream is clear high up the valley, but before it reaches the hill of Bardela looks green and yellow like a sulphur rivulet. Rocca Giovane, a ruined village in the hills, half an hour's walk from the vineyard where the pavement is shown, does seem to be the sight of the fane of Vacuna, and at inscription found there tells that this temple of the Sabine Victory was repaired by Vespasian.* With these helps, and a position corresponding exactly to every thing which the poet has told us of his retreat, we may feel tolerably secure of our site. The hill which should be Lucretilis is called Campa The style which one person thinks cloggy and curabrous, and unsuitable, may be to the taste of others, and such may experience some salutary excitement in ploughing through the periods of the Classical Tour. apt to beget an expectation of value. It is amongst the It must be said, however, that polish and weight are pains of the damned to toil up a climax with a huge round stone. was no such latitude allowed to that of his sentiments. The tourist had the choice of his words, but there The love of virtue and of liberty, which must have dis tinguished the character, certainly adorns the pages of Mr. Eustace, and the gentlemanly spirit, so recommendatory either in an author or his productions, is very conspicuous throughout the Classical Tour. But these and may be spread about it so prominently, and pro generous qualities are the foliage of such a perfortnanc See-Historical Illustrations of the Fourth Canto, p. 43. † See-Classical Tour, &c. chap. vii. p. 250. vol. ii. "Under our windows, and bordering on the beach, is the royal gar. den, laid out in parterres, and walks shaded by rows of orange trees." Clacsical Tour &c. chau. xi. vol. ii. oct. 365. fusely as to embarrass those who wish to see and find for its attachment to revolutiary principles, and was the fruit at hand. The unction of the divine, and the almost the only city which mace any demonstrations in exhortations of the moralist, may have made this work favour of the unfortunate Murat. This change may something more and better than a book of t vels, but however, have been made since Mr. Eustace visited they have not made it a book of travels; and this ob- this country; but the traveller whom he has thrilled servation applies more especially to that enticing method with horror at the projected stripping of the copper from of instruction conveyed by the perpetual introduction the cupola of St. Peter's, must be much relieved to find of the same Gallic Helot to reel and bluster before the that sacrilege out of the power of the French, or and rising generation, and terrify it into decency by the dis-other plunderers, the cupola being covered with lead.* play of all the excesses of the revolution. An animosity If the conspiring voice of otherwise rival critics had against atheists and regicides in general, and French- not given considerable currency to the Classical Tour, men specifically, may be honourable, and may be useful it would have been unnecessary to warn the reader, as a record; but that antidote should either be admi- that however it may adorn his library, it will be of little nistered in any work rather than a tour, or, at least or no service to him in his carriage; and if the judgshould be served up apart, and not so mixed with the ment of those critics had hitherto been suspended, no whole mass of information and reflection, as to give a attempt would have been made to anticipate their deci. bitterness to every page: for who would choose to have sion. As it is, those who stand in the relation of posthe antipathies of any man, however just, for his travel-terity to Mr. Eustace may be permitted to appeal from ing companions? A tourist, unless he aspires to the cotemporary praises, and are perhaps more likely to be credit of prophecy, is not answerable for the changes just in proportion as the causes of love and hatred are which may take place in the country which he describes; the farther removed. This appeal had, in some meaout his eader may very fairly esteem all his political sure, been made before the above remarks were written; portraits and de luctions as so much waste paper, the for one of the most respectable of the Florentine pubmoment they ce ise to assist, and more particularly if lishers, who had been persuaded by the repeated inqui-` they obs ruci, his actual survey. ries of those on their journey southwards to reprint a cheap edition of the Classical Tour, was, by the concurring advice of returning travellers, induced to aban don his design, although he had already arranged his types and paper, and had struck off one or two of the first sheets. The writer of these notes would wish to part (like Mr. Gibbon) on good terms with the Pope and the Cardinals, but he does not think it necessary to extend the same discreet silence to their humble partisans. Neither encomiun nor accusation of any government, or gove nors, is meant to be here offered; but it is stated a: an incontrovertible fact, that the change operated, either by the address of the late imperial system, or by the disappointment of every expectation by those who have succeeded to the Italian thrones, has been so considerable, and is so apparent, as not only to put Mr. Eustace's antigallican philippies entirely out of date, but even to throw some suspicion upon the competency and candour of the author himself. A remarkable example may be found in the instance of Bologna, over whose papal attachments, and consequent desolation, "What then, will be the astonishment, or rather the horror. of my the tourist pours forth such strains of condolence and reader, when I inform him........ the French committee turned its attention to Saint Peter's, and employed a company of Jews to eat! revenge, made louder by the borrowed trumpet of Mr.mate and purchase the gold, silver, and bronze that acorn the inside of Barke. Now Bologna is at this moment, and has been the edifice, as well as the copper that covers the vaults and deme on the cutie." hap. v. 139. vol. ii. The story about the Jews is reai or some vears, notorious amongst the states of Italy Turay danied at |