even excited a faint smile from my poor friend D***, as I reminded him of one of Jordaen's pictures of the triumph of Silenus.

After examining the cart very attentively, the old man informed us, that it would require a new shaft, and at least three hours to finish the job; and we were now obliged to bring it up to the village. Here we were conducted to the principal house, over the door of which was carved in stone the armorial bearings of the proprietress, an old lady, who begged us to walk in. Some fruit and refreshments were presented to us, of which we partook.

The lady of the mansion, we soon after discovered, claimed the rank of Countess; and we were not a little surprized to find, from our servants, that she had been tampering with the workmen, who declared that it would take at least twelve hours to repair the damage the cart had sustained. Upon this declaration being made, the Countess expressed a wish to purchase the concern, as the beauty of the two English chaise-wheels had particularly struck her fancy. After some pro's and con's, it was at length agreed between D*** and her Ladyship, that the cart should be her property for twelve dollars.

Having procured an ass and a mule to carry the baggage,

we were preparing to set off, when two padres, or priests, with the Donna's two daughters, arrived. To them she announced the bargain she had just concluded. The priests, on examining the vehicle, gave so unfavourable a report, that the Countess declared her determination to rescind her agreement. We now ordered out the unfortunate machine, and were preparing to make a bonfire of it before the old lady's door, when she begged to renew the negotiation, upon the basis of the status quo. The definitive treaty was soon concluded; she handed over the crusadoes to my friend D***, who pocketing them, made her a low bow, and mounting his horse, galloped out of sight before the Countess had an opportunity of wavering any more on the subject. I then paid my compliments, and taking rather a more tardy leave of her Ladyship, soon joined my friend, and enjoyed a hearty laugh at the expence of the antiquated Countess, whose avarice had been so manifest.

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LETTER XXXI.

Village of CAMPINHA.-ROAD TO GUARDA.SERRA DE ESTRELLÄ.
CASTANHEIRA. BELMONTE. DELIGHTFUL VALLEY.-GUARDA.

Guarda, 15th November, 1808.

WE arrived in this town last night. Soon after breakfast yesterday morning, we left the village of Campinha, situated in a small cul de sac, amid lofty granitic mountains, on which are spread some natural woods of oak. The morning was fine, and as the sun dispersed the mists of the valleys, they hung in mid-air beneath the surrounding precipices.

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You must often have observed this beautiful effect in the romantic environs of your native village, about the commencement of autumn, when the clouds, streaming along the vales, are attracted by the woody thickets, and, like the web of a gigantic gossamer, seem to cling to the boughs of the weeping birch, and red-berried mountain

ash. Such was the aspect under which we viewed the sequestered village of Campinha.

In the course of two miles we arrived near the banks of a mountain torrent, foaming amid mossy rocks. This stream, judging by my map, I suppose to be a branch of the Rio Sizera; but I must caution you that Jeffries appears to be inaccurate in this part of Portugal. Leaving this river to the left, we ascended and descended several times, till we arrived in a fine mountain plain, bounded on the left by a lofty range, over which towered the snowclad summit of the Serra d'Estrella, the highest mountain in Portugal.

The road from Campinha was excellent, composed of firm granitic sand, amid which we often found large masses of talc. The country was covered with short herbage; and on approaching Castanheira, we entered groves of fine chesnuts. This village (Castanheira), is finely placed on a knoll in the centre of the plain, betwixt two branches of the river Sizera, over which there are two bridges. After resting a few minutes here, we passed along the valley to a hamlet called Belmonte, the old castle of which we had descried at a great distance.

Belmonte is situated, as its name indicates, on a beautiful little eminence. Like the generality of villages here

about, it was in ancient times a strong hold.* Around the village are some noble groves of majestic chesnuts, of which the female peasants were busied in collecting the fruit.

At Belmonte we put up our horses for an hour at the house of the Juez de Fora, and after partaking of some bread and cheese, and a few roasted chesnuts, proceeded on our journey. About a mile from Belmonte we reached the picturesque banks of a small stream, whose course the road followed, leading us to the most beautiful valley your fancy can well picture. Fine oaks and chesnuts clothed both sides of the river, up to the very summit. Now and then an ancient church, with a cemetery, and a gray stone crucifix, covered with moss or ivy, gave an interest to the scene. The little hamlets hanging on the rocks, scattered forth wreaths of blue smoke over the dark brown woods.

From amidst the lofty Spanish broom, and " blossomed furze unprofitably gay," skipped the nimble herds of

* This country, indeed, abounds with such ruins. Idanha Nova, Idanha Velha, Pennamacor, &c. are all ancient hill forts, surrounded by villages. The inhabitants formerly carried on a perpetual warfare with Spain, from which country they were in their turn subjected to predatory incursions. Such was the state of the debateable land near the Tweed, before the union. between England and Scotland.

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