Behind the building is a pretty extensive garden, which is well stocked with shrubs, and laid out with some taste. The village is paltry, consisting of a few small houses, with one church, and an amphitheatre for bullfights. The peasants were employed in the fields as I passed, in gathering in the vintage and after an agreeable ride, I reached Torres Vedras about three in the after

noon.

I found my old landlord had been anxious for my return, that he might inform himself of the real state of things at Lisbon; of which the country people had been receiving for the last week the most false and exaggerated

accounts.

Mankind are naturally fond of news; and in a country like this, where newspapers are few in number, and, from the expence, difficult of access, every circumstance as it occurs, is handed about from person to person, and by the time it has travelled twenty-seven miles (which is the distance of this town from Lisbon), Mrs. Piozzi's tale of the Black Crows is fully exemplified.

You may judge what is the state of public information in this country, when I tell you, that previously to the invasion by the French, there was only one, or at most

The Portuguese have attempted to raise a great outcry against the quantity of plunder which the French have carried off with them. I do assure you, that I believe the clamour to be groundless. They certainly did attempt to smuggle many valuable articles of plunder on board; but so great has been the vigilance of General Beresford and Lord Proby, that they have in a great measure been foiled in their attempts, and forced to relinquish their booty, which has been placed in the public stores, till claimed by the individuals from whom it was cruelly wrested. They have contrived one mode of eluding the British vigilance: it is, the active employment of two mints, in which they have converted a large quantity of church-plate into French crowns and Napoleon d'ors. All this specie they are permitted, by the construction of the

articles of the convention, to carry off to France. You will allow that this piece of Gallic finesse has been rarely surpassed.

I believe I forgot to tell you that Junot wished to carry with him five Danish vessels loaded with plunder, under the name of his private baggage; but this attempt was much too barefaced, and was, of course, prevented by Sir Hew Dalrymple.

I am anxious to be removed to Lisbon, as this place is becoming unhealthy. My strolls in the neighbourhood have now lost the attraction of novelty; and I begin to feel the want of books, which are not to be had here. The labours of the vintage take up the attention of my worthy host, who spends most of his time at two vineyards which he possesses in this neighbourhood, and from which he derives a handsome incor

L

LETTER XII.

MAFRA. A CHARACTERISTIC ANECDOTE.-CONVENT OF MAFRA BUILT BY KING JOHN V.-ITS ARCHITECTURE SEVERELY CENSURED BY MURPHY-GENERAL IMPRESSION GRAND MUCH INJURED BY THE FRENCH SOLDIERY. AURICULAR CONFESSION.-SUBURBS OF LISBON. BENEFICO.-AQUEDUCT OF ALCANTARA-GALLEGOS.

Lisbon, 5th October, 1808.

I AM afforded an opportunity of writing to you by the Hindostan store-ship, which is ordered to return imme diately to England.

The hospital of Torres

Two days ago I arrived here Vedras is broken up, and the sick removed to the Estrella convent. My companions and I, on our way hither, were forced to pass the night at Mafra. It was late in the evening before we reached that village, so that we were obliged to disturb the slumbers of the Juiz de Fora, who seemed very unwilling to quit his pillow. At length he got up, and granted us the comforts of a billet on the house of one of the dignified clergy.