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and are an ornament generally becoming : but || thy friend ? Not content with my faithful deli. for unobtrusive neatness, and unstudied grace, || neations of the most rare and select costumes, the half-handkerchief of lace, in white or colours, ll but you must know the persons by whom, and embroidered in white, gold, or silver, admits of the occasions on which they are worn. Cruel no competitor : they must ever be considered an Wencroacher! du I not give you morning and ornainent of much attraction; and only require a I evening, full and half dress? And what would little judgment in their disposition to give an ad you more? You surely do not want to be told vantageous effect. The coronet, à-la-Cleopatra, || that you must not wear your Parisian chemise at formed of diamonds and rubies, is a new and la rout, nor your silver muslin at breakfast!.and splendid ornament for the front of the hair, and the same style of costume which is displayed at is frequently worn with the half handkerchief. the Marchioness of Salisbury's assemblies, may Indeed the diadem and liara, together with be consistently adopted at the Countess of bandeaus of steel, gold, and foil, rank amidst || | Buckinghamshire's card parties. The style must the fashionable ornaments of the season. ll on all occasions be preserved; the effect must
Trinkets continue, with some few additions, || rest with the individual; and will necessarily on par with our last report. Necklaces of dia vary, as to grace and elegance, in proportion to monds, or other precious stones, consist of one that degree of correct perception which distinrow, very large in the centre, and gradually de
I guishes the several wearers. But you ask by creasing in size towards the ends; they are ge. | whom such and such dresses were displayed. nerally set transparent. With these necklaces Why, my dear Julia, do you imagine that a the earring is shaped in a small pear form; but London assembly is like a Truro ball--a collec. is otherwise in the style of a hoop, or octagon, of tion of fifteen or twenty couple--where a stranger dimensions larger than we ever remember them. of address has nothing more to do, but to sport The cable necklace, with patent snaps, in form
a little graciously with the steward, and he is inof a ferule, in pearl or beads, with bracelets to stantly informed the name of each individual, correspond, is a new and very attractive orna
with his pedigree and character into the bargain. ment. The armlet is universally of hair, or a But here, my Julia, amidst an assemblage of four broad gold hoop; sometimes the hair is inter or five hundred, you can scarcely distinguish woven with pearl, or steel beads. Dress shoes your nearest relation; and when, attracted by the are of white satin, jcan, or kid, either plain,
appearance of any one, I eagerly ask Maryembroidered, or painted; undress, of brown or
“ who is that lovely creature?" Before she can dove kid. White kid gloves form an indispensa
perceive to which I allude, another fair fashionble part of full dress ; York tan, or Limerick, is
able presents herself; and the power of indivi. most esteemed on other occasions : but in this ll dualizing is lost in the elegant confusion. Thus, article, the taste of the wearer is in general a
then, having said so much of generals, I trust I sufficient guide. The prevailing colours are am at full liberty to descend to particulars. Let shaded dove, pink, jonquille, violet, and mo
me then begin by telling you that Mary returned to us three weeks since, and brought with her a very interesting and long-tried friend, who con
siderably embellishes and improves our family LETTER ON DRESS,
circle. She has been married some years, but EXPLANATORY AND DESCRIPTIVE, FROM
is still very young, very pretty, and very rich.ELIZA TO JULIA.
Ah! Julia, how much is comprehended in those Yes, dearest Julia! I do indeed love you with two last words! The world says every thing! “ unabated tenderness !" therefore teaze me no Il but I only say, that riches set off our good quamore with your little jealousies, but do justice to lities to the best advantage, and makes even your own worth, and my unshaken regard. amiability appear more amiable; while, on the
I decline making one at the Pic Nic this il contrary, poverty throws a veil over our very evening, for the purpose of transmitting you my || virtues. Scold me, Julia, in your next, for all promised intelligence. It is expected to be this; for unless chastised, I shall never leave off most splendidly attended; and Madame Catalani || this vulgar moralizing habit. Nothing for the (that unrivalled enchantress of the musical | last fortnight can exceed the avidity with which world) is to si:ng. But true friendship, dear we have engaged in every fashionable amuseJulia, makes a willing sacrifice, and repays itself ment. Morning levees, and drives to the most in the pleasure it bestows: therefore, while the Il celebrated shops, dinner, and evening parties, inhabitants of this gay mansion are engaged, gra have occupied each succeeding day. And I tifying the eye and the ear, to Julia, and Coro- assure you, that the trio from Poruman-square, wall, I dedicate my hand, and my heart. Yet, consisting of Mary, Mrs. K-(her friend above why, dear Ingrate, do you exact so much from alluded to), and hum'le ine, made some little
buz at the Marchioness of D- 's last grand | robe flowed loose from the back, was fastened on assembly. Relax thy brow, my fair friend, and each shoulder with large emerald brooches, and I will reward thy patience with a description of bordered all round with gold embroidery in the our several costumes. And first in train is Mrs. form of small bulrushes; on her head she wore
K- Her dress, a simple round gown, of a gold net half square, tastefully disposed; ene the most pliant and glossy white satin, with short || end of which was brought under the chin, and train, a frock sleeve, and wrap front; trimmed fastened behind the adverse ear. A row of fine round the bottom, cuff, and bosom, with silver 1 emeralds bound and divided her tresses on the net, about a nail in depth. A patent net shawl, forehead, and contrasted happily with its alabas. of brig'it morone, embroidered in a light and liter hue. Her ornaments were of blended pearl elegint border of silver, and slightly spotted with and emeralds : her shoes of white satin, embroi. the same. This ornament is so disposed as to hered in a gold laurel leaf at the toe ; white constitute the Tunic, or shawl dress, fully decrape opera fan, ornamented with a rich border scribed in my last. Her hair was twisted in a of gold spangles and frost-work. And now, my kind of loop at the back of the head, and fell in friend, last and least, came simple me, in a frock irregular curts in front, increasing in length from of undrest crape, with a white brocade ribbon the left temple, and confued with a bandeau of laid flat round the bottom, busom, and sleeves ; diamonds. A single brilliant of striking magni and finished at the extreme edge with a narrow tude formed the brooch, which confined the dress silver trimming; the front of the waist biassed, at the bosoom. Her necklace was one row of and the sleeve of the Spanish form ; a round diamonds, very large in the centre. Earrings of bosom, with a fall of Mechlin lace. My hair correspondent splendour. Bracelets and armlets in a simple band on one side, tightly twisted of seed-pearl, with rich diamond clasps. A gold behind, and brougnt in full flowing ringlets on watch, with chain of the most delicate workman. the other ; two rows of pearl formed the banship, composed of dead and bright gold, finished bran, which was fastened in front of the foreat the swivel with an oval cornelian; from whence head with the same, set in the form of a large is suspended six most elegant small seals of the shell. My necklace and bracelets were very elesame, variously shaded, with a curious key of Igant, being a present from cousin John on my wrought gold, finished with a brilliant in the birth-ılay. They were composed of seed coral, centre. The devices engraved on these seals twisted in the form of a cable; and fastened with render this an ornament of much interest; they the patent ferule snap of richly wrought gold. are entitled Cupid's Progress! Although it will
These necklaces are vastly elegant, and the disoccupy much of my time, I cannot forbear tinguishing article in that style of ornament. giving you a particular description of a trinket, They are often composed of pearl, with the ferwhich is likely to become an indispensable part role snap of diamonds; and those whose slender of a fashionable and tasteful costume.
fortune will not allow of costly trinkets, have The first seal is inten:led to represent Love them formed of small coloured beads, or patent surprised, or Cupid's first meeting with a heart;
pearl. I observed at the opera (whither we the second, Love musing, or Cupid in thoughtful
went last Saturday) that the tiura had given mood, leaning on the end of his bow, which is
great place to the bandeau. The half handkerreversed; the third, Love's aim, or Cupid in the chief obtains unrivalled popularity ; but much act of darting his arrow at the heart; the fourth, taste is necessary to render it a becoming orna. Love delighted, or Cupid with his hands clasped,
ment. Let me guard you, dear Julia, against in an extacy of joy at having wounded the heart,
wearing your's under the chin. With a pale and which is represented with the arrow infixed; the interesting countenance, it produces but a sickly fifth, Love triumphant, or Cupid placing two Il effect. The coldness of the season has obliged hearts on an altar; the sixth, Time crowning the adoption of some warm wrap in public; ac. Love, or the figure of Time placing a chaplet cordingly at the opera we see the peasant's cloak on the head of Cupirl. The thought which di. ll of scarlet kersey mere; but these are now enrected these ingenious and interesting devices, li tirely eclipsed by the opera cloak of white satin, owes its origin to the tasteful and elegant set of trimmed with gossamer fur, and the Polish robe drawings, designed by the Princess Elizabeth of the same material. This surely must be consome time since, and are admirably adapted for sidered as a most judicious variation; for, in a the ornament they embellish. Now then, dear ! place of fashionable resort, we naturally expect Julia, having said so much of her friend, let me a litile uniformity, and one would rather look hasten to do justice to the taste of my charming | like a gentlewoman than a marketwoman on rehtive. Mary wore a Circassian robe of Mora- ! such occisions. vian muslia over a white satin under-dress. Thell Farewell, dear, dear Julia ! I go to my pil.
low, impressed with your image.-Sweet sleep! || As the queen left no less than three thousand the kind restorer, may possibly bring me to Corn. | different habits in her wardrobe when she diell, wall and you,-Good night !--Ever, and for and was possessed of the dresses of all countries, ever, your
ELIZA. it is somewhat strange that there is such a uni
formity of dress in her portratis, and that she
should take a pleasure in being loaded with orna. ANTIQUARIAN RESEARCHES,
ments. INTO THE ORIGIN AND DIVERSITIES OF At this time the stays and bodies were worn COSTUME.
long-waisted. Lady Hunsdon, the foremost of Sn,
the ladies in the procession to Hunsdon-Mouse, You have, without doubt, sufficiently em- || appears with a much longer waist than those ploved yourself upon the subject of which I am
that follow her. She might possibly have been about to treat, to know that fashion is not a crea
a leader of the fashion as well as of the procese ture of modern times; but that gowns, caps,
sion. hats, and petticoats, have their pedigree and illustrious descent, as well as other things. 1,
JAMES 1. Mr. Editor, am an antiquarian, and have endea Wilson ipforms us that the Countess of Essex, voured to amuse the dryness of my studies, by after her divorce, appeared at Court “ in the occasionally converting them to the purposes and habit of a virgin, with her hair pendant and al. amusements of the fair sex; and having in my ll most to her feet.” The Princess Elizabeth, with reading, discovered the origin and inventions of much more propriety, wore her's in the same certain dresses, many of which are now worn, manner, when she went to be married to the some obsolete, and others newly revived, I have Prince Palatine. undertaken to form my discoveries into a letter, The head of the Countess seems to be opand through the medium of your BELLE As pressed with ornaments, and she appears to have SEMBLEE, to offer them at the shrine of the fair exposed more of the bosom than was seen in any
former period. We are informed by several antiquaries, that
The ladies began to indulge a strong passion in the time of Ann, Richard the Second's queen, for foreign laces in the reign of James, which the women of quality first wore trains ; the same
Il rather increased than abated in succeeding genequeen introduced side-saddles.
rations. It is recorded in the reign of Henry the The ruff and farthingale still continued to be Eighth,“that Anne Boleynę wore yellow mourn
worn. Yellow starch for ruffs, first invented by ing for Catharine of Arragon.”
the French, and adapted to the sallow comThe reign of Mary is supposed to be the æra
plexion of that people, was introduced by Mrs. of ruffs and farihingales, as they were first Turner, a physician's widow, who had a prinbrought hither from Spain. Howell tells us in
cipal hand in poisoning Sir Thomas Overbury. his leiters, that the Spanish word for a farthin
This vain and infamous woman, who went to gale, literally translated, signifies cover-infant,
be hanged in a ruff of that colour, helped to supas if it was intended to conceal pregnancy; it is
port the fashion so long as she was able : it beperhaps of more honourable extraction, and
gan to decline upon her execution. might signify cover-infunta. A blooming virgin The ladies, like those of Spain, were banished in that age seems to have been more solicitous to from court during the reign of James, which hide her skin, than a shrivelled old woman is at was perhaps a reason why dress underwent very present; the very neck was generally concealed; || little alteration during that period.' the arms were covered quite to the wrists; the | It may not be impertinent to remark, that the petticoats were worn long, and the head gear, or lady of Sir Robert Cary, afterwards Earl of Mon.. coifure, close; to which was sometimes fasten mouth, was mistress of the sweet (or perfumed). ed a light veil, which fell down behind, as if in cuffers to Ann of Denmark; an office which tended occasionally to conceal even the face.”
answered to that of mistress of the robes at pre
REIGN OF ELIZABETH.
CHARLES 1. Edward Vere, the seventeenth Earl of Ox- ||| Ladies wore their hair low on the forehead, ford, was the first that introduced embroidered and parted in small ringlets. Many wore it gloves and perfumes into England, which he curled like a peruke, and some braided and brought from Italy. He presented the queen rounded in a knot at the top of the crown: they with a pair of perfumed gloves, and her portrait frequently wore strings of pearls in their hair ; was painted with them upon her hands.
ear-rings, necklaces, bracelets, and other jewels, No. XV, Vol. II.
| were also much worn.
Laced handkerchiefs resembling the large fal- 11
THE FINE ARTS. ling band worn by the men were in fashion among the ladies; this article of dress has been lately! The following article, which was omitted in its prorevived, and called a Vandyke.
per place under the head of the Fine Arts, is Cowley, in his discourse « On Greatness," inserted here, that it may nol be lost to the Macensures some enormities in ihe dress of his time,
Sazine. in the following terms:-“Is any thing more common than to see our ladies of quality wear
The Exhibition of the Royal Academy is this such high shoes as they cannot walk in without year preceded by the separate display of a single one to lead them ? and a goun as long again as picture, the production of one of its meinbers, their body, so that they cannot stir to the next and of such superior merit, as the Academic cataroom without a Page or two to hold it up.".
logue will scarcely vie with in interest and attrac
tion. The subject of this exquisite performance CHARLES I.
(painted as large as life) is from, The Monody lo The citizens' wives in his reign seem to have the memory of a young Lady, well known to most had their domestic sumpihary laws, and to have i of our readers from its frequent introduction in adopted the frugal maxims of their husbands; the poetical miscellanies. The point of time is there appears from Hollar's habits, to have been that, when the wife, while recommending the care a much greater disparity in point of dress betwixt of her infant daughter, takes a tender farewell of them and the ladies of quality than betwixt the her husband: former and the wives of our present ycomanry. Promise—and I will trust thy faithful vow, [To be continued.]
(Oft have I tried, and ever found thee true!)
This fatal pledge of hapless Emma's love;
Where safe thy blandishments it may partake, Written by the celebrated Duke de la Rochefou
And oh! be tender for its mother's sake. cault to his niece; which never appeared in any
Wilt thou ? collection of his works.
I know thou wilt-sad silence speaks assent;
And, in that pleasing hope, thy Einma dies You have acted very prettily, truly, to marry il
content! without saying a word to me on the subject; I
BELL'S FUGITIVE POETRY, vol. IX. however, can tell you that I would have given you some very good advice: but the excellence of While the tear of sympathy is excited by the your disposition, has, without doubt, taught you, I tender feeling with which these lines appear to be what should be your conduct on such an occasion. | delivered by the female, the pallid colour of whose I would, however, have wished to have witnessed features are beautifully relieved, by a considerable your behaviour; and I expect you to give me a breadth of half tint; the mind is astonished at the faithful relation of it; for unless you do this, in expression of the listening figure-an expression stead of prosperity, I shall wish you I shall wish inot delineated in the countenance, which, indeed, you impossibilities, mutual jealousy, opposition of is entirely observed by the left hand, whilst the temper, a father-in-law in love with you, an ill right is affectionately locked fast in that oi Emma, Ihatured mother-in-law, quarrelsome brothers-in uniting, in this circumstance, contrast and beaury law, tiresome sisters-in-law, replete with provin of colouring which would have done honour to cial politeness, and fond of reading bad romances; ! Vandyke. Still more wonderful is the dexterity smoke in winter, fleas in summer, unpleasant ! and taste of the artist, in successfully touching neighbours, tenants who never pay their rents, that chord of the human heart which, while it lawsuits, dishonest servants, a bad cook, a waiting | melts with pity, inclines not to turn from a scene maid who cannot comb your hair, a bigot for your that calls to the recollection the common lot of confessor, a carriage drawn by restive horses, a all: by a magic we never felt equalled but in etre drunken coachman, dirty linen, bad water, sour most finished representations of the dramatic wine, mouldy bread, importunate duns, a litigious science, the careless beholder and the connoisseur magistrate, greyhounds beside your fire, cats on are alike impelled to gaze on with increased deyour berl, along-winded and stupid parson, acurate light and satisfaction. Whether considered as an who deems himself a poet. I would speak of the effort of composition, colouring, effect, or expreschildren, but this is not an impossibility, and there. l' sion, this production must claim a pre-eminence fore before I say two much I will hold my tongue, which good fortune can rarely obtain. This chef Come and see me, then, to escape these missor d'euvre of Mr. Westall, is on view in Brooktunes, and to prove yourself worthy of the hap- street, Grosvenor-square. piness that awaits you, if you act as you ought.
1 Ai Edinburgh, Mr. John Murray, bookseller
ll in London, to Miss Anne Ellivt, daughter of the In Lower Grosvenor-street, Lady Amherst, of ||
late Charles Elliot, Esq. bookseller in Edinburgh. 2 son.
Philip Gibbes, Esq. eldest son of Sir Philip In Somerset-Place, Lady Thomson, wife of
Gibbes, bart, to Maria, third daughter of the late Sir T. B. Thompson, Comptroller of the Navy,
Robert Knipe, Esq. of New Lodge, Herts. of a daughter.
At Mary-le-bone Church, Captain Stuart, of At Pimlico, the Lady of Colonel Elliot, of a ||
" || the 16th Light Dragnons, 10 Miss Anson, young daughter.
est daughter of the late George Anson, Esq. and In Berners-street, the Lady of John Camp
sister to Viscount Anson. bell, Esq. M. P. of a son.
At Wexford, Ireland, Lieu'enant Gilbert J. The Lady of Colonel Montgomery, M. P. of a
| Michel, R. N. to Mus Lucinda Boyd, daughter son.
of Jaines Boyd, Esq. of Wexford. At his father's house, in Welbeck-street, the
At Frankley, Worcestershire, J. Haines, Esq. Lady of the Rev. B. G. Heath, of a son.
ll of Forshaw Heath, to Miss Gosling, daughter of At his house in Queen Ann-street West, the
Thomas Gosi ng Esq. of the former place, Lady of James West, Esq. of a son.
W.C. Grant, Esq. of the 92d regiment, to The Lady of A.P. Cuinberbatch, Esq. of a
the youngest daughter of the Rev. Dr. Milne, of son.
|| Deptford, The Lady of Captain C. W. Paterson, of the
At Castle Douglas, Mr. S. Coosker, aged 90, Royal Navy, of a daughter.
to Mrs. Margaret Coulthard, aged 36, being the At Fredville, Kent, the Lady of J. Plumptre,
ampus | fourth tiine she has been led to the hymencal of a daughter.
altar. At Beverley, the Lady of Peter Acklom, Esq. of a daughter. At London, the Lady of Tho. Sheridan, Esq.
DIED. of a daughter.
In the neighbourhood of Frome, within a few # In Dublin, the Countess of Wicklow. She is months, five women of thirteen children : the ll succeeded in her ville by her eldest son the Vis first of four, the next of three, and the remaining coun;, now Earl of Wicklow. Her very extenof two cach, all of which are now living. sive property devolves upon her second son, the
Right Hon. William Forward.
At his house, Great Cumberland-place, AdMARRIED.
miral Sir Hyde Parker.
At Edinburgh, Vice-Admiral John Inglis. He At Mary-le-bone Church, Charles Combe, Esq. Il commanded the Belliqueux in the battle of of Bloomsbury-square, to Miss Georges, daughter | Camperdown, and greatly distinguished hiinself of the late W. Payne Georges, Esq. of Man on that occasion. chester-square, and niece to the Right. Hon. At Falloden, the seat of Lady Grey, Elizabeth Lord Lavington, Commander in Chief of the Grey, relice of the late George Grey, Esq. and Leeward Islands.
grandmother to Viscount Howick At Gran: ham, Leon. Walbanke Childers, Esq. At Booile, the Rev. Thomas Smith, rector of to Miss Sarah Anne Kent, second daughter of the parish, and vicar of Ulverston; and an acting Sir Charles Kent, Bart. of Grantham-house, in Magistrate for the county palatine of Lancaster, the county of Lincoln.
and county of Cuinberland. In Scotland, M. W. Barnes, Esq. of Reigate, At Peckham, Mr. Richard Sause, only son of Surrey, 10 the Hon. Georgiana Catharine Co-|| Captain Sause, R.N. His death was occasioned ventry, second daughter of Lord Viscount Deer. by a wound he got in the action of Trafalgar. hurst.
At Bath, Benjamin Morris, Esq. In the At Martin Worthy, Hants, John Briggs, Esq. 1 early part of his life, he pursued the profession of Lincoln’s-inn, barrister, to Miss Margaret Mal- of a drawing-master, and was esteemed, in his colm, niece of Admiral Sir Thomas Pasley, bart, time, an artist of some eminence. His latter
At Morden, E. B. Lousada, Esq. of Devon- 11 years were remarkable for their wonderous regu, shire-square, to Miss Goldsmid, eldest daughter larity; every day was marked with such preci. of Abrm. Goldsmid, Esq.
sion, that it seldom deviated a single minute in At Mary-le-bone Church, Miss Ford, eldest the performance of the exact vocation of the daughter of the late Sir Francis Ford, bart. to preceding. Peter Touchet, Esq. Mortimer-street, Cavendish. In Ireland, the Right Rev. Dr. Peter M'Masquare.
hon, titular Bishop of Killaloe.