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OF THE

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Row ;

GENERAL INTELLIGENCE

thing in our subsequent Numbers; at present
the intelligent and descriptive have claims on

our time, to which our fair readers are entitled, MOST ELEGANT SPRING FASHIONS.

and we cxult in becoming their faithful hare Selected from the most tasteful public and private bingers. The Curacao cloak is formed of coloured

sarsnet, iscut like a short pelisse behind, reaching
about half a yard below the waist, ani continued

to a point on each side, nearly to reach the botOurs be the task each varying grace to show,

tom of the petticoat; in front it flows open, When Fashion's magic art with taste combine. I with a narrow falling cape, or lappel, on the 'Tisours to paint the source from whence they shoulder; it is considered most elegant to trim

this article all round with a broad Vandyke lace; While all the magic, British fair, is thine.

but many adopt the variegated cord, or shaded
brocade ribband.

We have seldom witnessed an article more While the unfolding beauties of reviving tas:eful than the French coat and vest; this nature awake to new life the vegetable kingdom, i habiliment is also formed of coloured sarsnet, or and usher in progressive loveliness the blooming | imperial satin. The one which attracted us in children of Spring; while the budding fra- particular, was composed of a celestial blue twill grance of each bursting blossom steals with soothi sarsnet, and is formed nearly like the last new ing softness over the senses, and lights anew our Opera coats, not a single gather being seen to hopes, “ Aushed by the spirit of the genial year," unite the waist to the skirt, which sits close to the more aniinated part of the creation step forth the form behind, and flows open in front, dise in rival loveliness, to welcome the season of love covering the graceful vest, which is composed of and pleasure. The brilliant assemblage of beauty, a width of the sarsnet near three yards long, is rank, and elegance, is not now confined to passed through the left shoulder-seam, crosses theatres, concerts, routs, and balls; but in the the back, and is brought through the bottom of Park and Gardens, in drives through Bond-street, the waist on the opposite side, where it meets Pall-Mall, and St. James's, the eye is dazzled by the adverse end, and is simply tied so as to rethe gay and splendid throng; while taste, fashion, semble a military sash. The coat and vest are and variety, appear as the handmaids of beauty, rimmed entirely round with a brocade ribband fascination, and grace. The cold-repelling wraps of shaded purple, which has a novel and attracof velvet, and kerseymere, are no longer con. tive contrast with the pale blue of which this genial to our feelings; these are now laid aside elegant habit is composed. Spensers are formed for the gentle and pliant saršnet, or the yielding in similar style, except tirat the lappel is much and adhesive folds of imperial satin, of gossamer smaller, and encroaches but little on the vest, softness. Of these appropriate and elegant articles which completely finishes the spenser in front. are formed the Curacao cloak, and French coat With these articles are chiefly worn the chip or anıl vest, now the distinguishing ornament of straw Gipsy hat, with correspondent triniming ; our fashionable belles. As at this season of or the porcupine hat, of straw, with deep tiara tonnish celebrity and public display, the out front. Several cloaks are seen of the cottage door habiliment is of equal importance with that form, with deep pointed capes, finished with a of the evening, or full dress, we shall dwell with cone, or barrel tassel; these are formed also of more than customary precision on this style of sarsnets. Indeed the season is not yet so far adcostume; but our fair correspondents will re vanced as to admit of a slighter covering. The meinber, that we are not in the habit of describing Woodman's bat, of figured sarsnet, in celestial those articles of which they can have ocular blue, olive, dove-colour, or lilac, is an ornament demonstration from the passing multitude, but where much taste and whim is uniteil; on the such as are evidently select, and elegant, from youthful countenance it has a becoming and being adopted by females of taste and distinction. unstudied effect; for walking, however, we We shall, however, attend to that intermediate recommend the Cottage bonnet, or Gipsy hat style of decoration which properly belongs to of imperial straw, tied across the crown with a those females to wliom fortune has limited her | silk or patent-net handkerchief. There is in bounty, and who, placed in a state of happy these articles a sort of retired elegance at once mediocrity, should adopt that neat and unob-appropriate and distinguishing. Dress gowns are trusive elegance of attire which interests rather worn much ornamented, chiefly with lace or than aitracts, and which is perhaps the most dif needle-work; and for occasions of public display ficult in combination of any other style of cos we have witnessed coloured borders on crape, or tume. On this subject we purpose saying some India muslin; either in painting, embroidery, or

racters.

foil; we have seen a border of ivy, of liburnium, || for the head, and though we have seen inventiand of the geranium leaves, have a most attractive ons of superior interest and attraction, yet its noeffect. While satin jackets, trimmed with che- | velty, and nearness recommend it as worthy of nille, with short Spanish sleeve, and two rows of adoption. Garnets are now very much worn by Vandyke lace plaited thick, and continued round females of the first distinction; and to a fair com. the bask, finishing at each shoulder, and termi

plexion, their contrasted hue is particularly adnated in front with a long white satin sash, are

vantageous. The bracelet and armlet of hair, much worn with a round tr.in dress of Moravian

linked curiously with steel, pearl, or dead and muslin; this is one of those intermerliate habili. | bright gold, is the most select of this species of ments which attracts by its simplicity and ele ornament; in other respecis the style of trinkets gance. The general style of forming dresses is differs not from our last communication. For very high in the bosom, so as to preclude the general wear, the kid shoe prevails over the jean; necessity of the neckerchief; plain fronts, unit- for dress, white and black satin, or painted kid, ing in the centre with a clasp, and a demi wrap are invariably chosen. The fashionable colours over it, finished on the left side, where the dress for the season are, the olive, or tea-leaf, celestial closes, are uncommonly elegant. We observed | blue, apple blossom, lavender ditto, jonquille, a dress of this formation at the Duchess of G-'s | lilac, and dove.brown, assembly, let in all round, and up the left side, with the most delicate Mechlin lace, and tied with tassels of cut steel; the back is a little ad

LETTER ON DRESS. Tanced of late. The short sleeve is almost uni

ILLUSTRATIVE AND DESCRIPTIVE. versal in full dress; and the evening short dress is confined to the ball costume. Morning dresses If you would permit me for once to break are formed with the large full sleeve, high collar, through my agreement with you, dear Jutia, in with a single fall of French lace, or a double | my present communication, I would gladly subplaiting of Vandykc; they are laced, or buttoned stitute persons for things; and instead of delidown the back, and so constituted as to sit close neating the costume, give you a sketch of cha. to the bosom. The Parisian chemise is trimmed

Our house is at this period the very round with plain French net; and the Turkish centre of gaiety, and mart of fashion; and while wrap is formed like the flowing pelisse, and Mary appears the magnet that attracts the men, composed chiefly of striped coloured muslin, I cousin John is the loadstone which collects the plain jaconet, French cainbric, or Indian long women. Oh! what a history could I give you cloth. The Spanish hood, the Parisian night. of beaux that flutier round the one, and belles cap, the Curacao turban, the long lace veil, ll that Airt (nothing lvath) with the other.-Of forming both cloak and head-dress, are variously fawning sycophants in the shape of humble inadnpted. The hair is chiefly worn in dishevelled terlopers. Or selfish flatterers, who at once curls, exhibiting much of the forehead. Ban aid the v.ces they expose, with a long train of deaus of diamonds, garnets, or emeralds, are con

et ceteras too numerous for insertion. After all, sidered elegant; and the rainbow coronet, formed my dear friend, there is something strangely of diverse precious stones, worn by the Mar. enigmatical in your people of haut ton; and I chioness of E on a late splendid occasion,

am not yet able to fathom thein. They are like excited universal admiration, from its singularity, a set of pleasing puzzlers, which entangle you in brilliancy, and beauty.

a maze of enchantment, and amuse while they It should be remembered that the morning perplex you. Thanks to the precepts of the costume, according to the present slandard of dear Vicarage, though moving within their cirfashion, is considered vulgarly deficient without cles, I am not bound by their spells; for while a cap. Shirts, as an intermediate article, are as surrounded by the great and the gay, I still remuch in esteem as ever; they are often made

tain a venerated recollection for all that I learnt without a collar, and worn with a double frill of amidst the humble and the good. But away with Vandyke lace, sometimes with a fall of Mechlin sentiment ! A słyle which cousin John assures lace, and those who cover the throat in public, me is considered by the fashionable world, as have adopted (instead of the collar) a buffooned completely gothic and canaillish. At first, dear net, which is gathered into a large brooch of vari- || Julia, his assertion surprised me. ous compositions, in the centre.

this, dear cousin ?" I replied. “False sentiAn entire new trinket has made its appearance ment is, I allow, both dangerous and ridiculous; since our last communication; it is a composition but a purity of thought and expression, arising representing the diversified shades of the cockle

from a just sense of right and wrong, is so blended shell, sel in gold; it is worn as a brooch, as a with correct principles, that if we sink into the necklace, liuked with gold, as a sort of coronet ridic ule of one, we shake the fabric of the other."

“And how is

sumes.

But, my pretty moralizer," he returned,“ have Spring then, dear Julia, with all her beauteous you not yet found out that we people of fashion sylvan train, I pay the willing tribute ! Oh! have very

delicate nerves? Our refined feelings how shall I paint her pure and spotless loveliness? cannot stand the shock of vulgar truths! And whose influence extends to things seen and remote, you must allow it would appear rather incon. who warms the opening blossom to maturity, gruous to hear a fair nymph, with arms highly who lights anew the thought of genius, and ex posed, and bosom courageously displayed, I gives to talent force to perpetuale her various moralizing on the degeneracy of the times, and beauties. Thongh amidst our groves no prim, Iraranguing on the captivating graces of mo rose blooms, nor gentle violet exhales its sweets, desty,". You may suppose, dear Julia, that I || yet are their varied rints and beauties owned even readily gathered from this irony of my cousin's, at a distance froin their shades. what were his opinions on the present too ge Mary's French coat rivals the primrose hue, general exposure of the person; and although I while my Curacav cloak the violet's shade as. followed, in a very moderate degree, a fashion

Our Gipsy hats, of chip, are decked which my early notions of delicacy led me to with wreaths, in imitation of these beauteous condemn, yet, since this conversation, I have offspring of the season. We have also hats of been more careful to preserve that chastity of ll satin-straw, for half-dress, with the high tiara attire which we are told should be one of the dis- || front, and globe crown, the most nošel and ele. tinguishing qualities of our sex. But to the main gant article of the kind I have witnessed for purport of my letter!

many seasons. I send you one to astonish the My dear Julia, all the elegance and beauty of natives of your island, together witli a military England seem now collected in this charming || sash, and spenser of celestial blue, a colour ses city; it were impossible to give you an idea vilected by our first rutes; and which, you know, the innumerable artractions which claim one's || l'always thought associated most advantageously attention, and conspire to cheat us of our time. with the delicacy of your complexion. Mary The Opera's brilliancy, the Drawing-room splen

was at the last Drawing-room, and wore a most dour, the Assembly's agile grace, the taste and splendid dress of fine silver net, orer white salin, beauty of the fashionable throng, which meet

with an entire new set of hair ornaments and the eye in quick succession in our morning trinkets, of the finest garnets. I never saw her drives, the ingenuity and decoration exhibited at Jook half so' beautiful, or attired with more public parties, &c. &c. absolutely bewilder the chastity and elegance. Time will not permit mind, and leave it a chaos of pleasurable cmo.

me to say much of court-dresses; but I will just tion, while the eye and the ear regn despotic || steal a few moments to give you a description of over the other senses. But I know, dear friend, a dress prepared for the Princess Amelia :-It is you wish me to hint my intelligence to personal composed of black net lace, quite plain; and decoration. I hasten therefore 10 give you a

round the bottom and drapery, is seen the most few choice delineations; for were I to descend to elegant, rich, and beautiful border of the oak. particulars, my task would be (like Penelope's leaf and its fruit. The leaves and acorns are web) without end. First, as to style, there is formed of satin, shaded to nature, with chenille, little variation since my last communication; and in tambour. This dress (whose ground-work is the quick transitions of the present changeful of most transparent texture) is worn over an season, from Spring's mild warmth, to Winter's | under-dress of highly-polished white satin; and chilling cold, render it difficult to report what has the most novel, beantiful, and splendid effect may (on the arrival of my packet in Cornwall) | I ever witnessed. The head-dress worn with it be deemed a faitiiful transcript. Last week consists of a 'bandeau of diamonds, set in the Mary and myself were engaged a whole morning || form of an oak-leat, and an aigrette of acords in selecting our Spring costume; but scarce had in front, over' which waves" a n

a' military plume of their beauties met the partial rays of an April white ostrich feathers. 3.V. sun, before Winter, in savage malignity, en Ball dresses, dear Julia, were never more at croached on her mild dominion, and obliged us tractive than this spring. Frocks of French net, in pay a willing homage to her invidicus usurpa over white satin, painted in natural flowers, tion. Velvets, nay, even coats of kerseymere, || Dresses of white Imperial satin, with a silver and seal-wool cloth, are now dragged forth from brocade ribband at the bottom, and French the recesses of the wardrobe. "But as it is pos aprons of net or lace, bordered all round, and oro sible that before this packet is lodged in your fair namented at the pricket-holes with Chinese hands,—“Another May new buds and sweets Round train-dresses of Moravian muslin, may bring," I will disregard the present mono let in all round with fine footing lace, and fastened poly of the sombre god, and no longer “ Snatch up the side with clasps of embossed gold of iny rays of brighiness from the sorm." To steel. These dresses, amidst m;any others

, ara

roses.

OF THE

conspicuous for their taste and elegance. I no

PRESENT STATE
longer remark the long sleeve in full-dress, ex-
cepe on women who have passed their maturity.

FRENCH STAGE.
I hope, Julia, you have never worn the backs of
Foue dresses immoderately low, a correct taste

DEAR SIR, must ever condemo a fashion so disgusting. I The promising buds of an early spring begin am happy to tell you, that at the last Opera, and already to unfold, and the mild weather has ren. at the Marchioness of D-'s grand assembly, dered the country so pleasant, that many people the most elegant women wore the backs of their have already quitted the noisy town in order to dresses much advanced, or shaded with gentle

watch the opening beauties of the year. As I folds of muslin or lace.

am forced by my present situation to remain here, Do not be displeased that I fulfil not your || I will amuse my leisure hours by sending you as commission for the long stay. Believe, Julia,

much information as I can gather; but you must your slender form, gently and simply rounded by expect none of a political nature. nature, needs not this unnatural compression; The Stage being one of the most interesting they can only be requisite for such females as objecis that can fall under my glance, I will beexceed the embonpoint, to others they give a gin by passing in review the numerous theatres most ungraceful stiffness; and, I should think,

that continue to allure the Parisians, but not almust be as uneasy as they are inelegant and un ways for the purpose of ainusement. natural. Besides, dear Julia, if we consult the Les Français announce every night new debuts; painter and the sculpturist, we shall find that the but these votaries of the tragic muse appear on the natural beauty of a form consists in a moderate stage for the single end of bidding an eternal adieu roundness, not in contracted fatness. I posi. to the public, as after the curiain has dropped tively will not allow of your destroying thes

e sym.

they are never heard of any more. metry of nature, by the distortions of art. We The Opera is still the same; crowded with inare justified, my fair friend, in obviating her de. different singers and excellent dancers. Ladies fects, but not in abusing her gifts. Continue, repair to this place, with the wish of spreading therefore, your simple corset; and do not, with their charms and elegance to public admiration; your plump chcek, and round arms, exhibit the and gen:lemen to enjoy the prospect of the boxes body of a caged skeleton. Thus much, dear and the stage. Ennui is all that can be gathered Julia, on this subject; but not a letter too much, here, and when the spectators withdraw, they if it prevents your thinking more of an article look like school-boys that have been cumpelled to Dever designed for you.

listen to a long sermon. You must wear your morning dresses very high At the Opera-Comique you see a crowded stage, in the neck, laced or buttoned behind, with work and an empty house. Jet in in three separate divisions, round the Louvois presents nothing but gloomy characbottom, and in the form of a triangle on the ters, and here, even gascoons breathe melanbosom and sleeves; or otherwise your morning choly. dresses may be formed, with little variation, like The Vandeville was formerly consacrated to the lappeled opera-coat. The hair is still turned light, satirical, and at the same time moral up tight behind, flowing in irregular curls on the pieces, but now it has launched forth into pacrown of the head; sometimes in a plain band

thetic plays. on one side, with ringlets falling in various di

Montansier will soon, it is reported, be the rections on the other. The half-handkerchief only theatre where taste will preside, as none is till prevalent; but bandeaus, entirely round but old plays will, it is said, be ac!ed there. the head, are considered more genteel. Your I have not yet spoken of the theatres on the watch must ever be worn on the outside, both in Boulevards; there we find so many good dramas, the morning and evening costume.

and distinguished actors, such a variety of new A contrast of colours is now exceedingly and original spectacles, that the crowd forsakes fashionable, but it requires much taste to unite other places of amusement to fill these: and if them with effect. The celestial blue and purple any one want to see performance he must hire is one of the most striking and novel unions; a box at least eight days before-hand. but the primrose and lilac, the pink and dove This is the shortest account I am able to give brown, are mixtures far more pleasing.

you of the present state of the French stage, Good night, dear Julia ! -A thundering rap which is by no means Aourishing. Now I will at the door warns me of Mary's return. The relate to you what I saw in my last visit to the dial points at half-past one. I run to my chann. museum, during the exhibition of pictures. I ver, after signing inyself Yours,

had ill chosen the day, for it was Sunday, and I

ELIZA. found it impossible to be a close observer of talent Na XVI. Vol. II.

tance.

ex

and genius in a crowd of curious and noisy next new theatrical representation, and ten view badauts. As soun as I arrived, I attempted, but waya of placing the shawl round the liead, or disa in vain, to draw near the pictures; a group of posing of it about the shoulders.”

“ How much fashion there is in that corner; five or six people plied their elbows with success, and threw me farther than ever from the courage gentlemen, let us make use of our object of my observations. Pushed to and froi, | elbows, come then.”—“ Impossible, we shall I could see nothing, when at last perceiving that never be able to approach, it is Isabey's drawing, the former group. knew how to force their way that corner is always crowded; I should, howthrough surrounding crowds, I resolved no more cver, like to take a peep; they say there is a to contend with them, but to join them, and fol- very graceful and majestic female figure."lowing step by step tbeir progreșs, succeeded in But we don't get on at all; I am determined catching partial glances of the pictures at a dis to see it; I will come some day and view it at I had not long joined their party when 1

my

ease." was struck by their conversation, of which 'I “Look at that old ewe, dressed lamb fashion.". will send you as much as I am able to recol. “Where:

-Oh, horrid! horrid!" I raised my lect.

head, and could not help exclaiming with them, “ Do you see yonder mother," said the one, horrid ! " she kneels with her son before the tomb of " Lord bless me, it is twelve o'clock," exher husband. She must be a good woman, but claimed one of them; "and Monsieur Floridor her dress bespeaks her a foreigner. Look at her is waiting for me, I was to have taken him home hair, you will see no plaits, no culs, no diadem à pair of new shoes."

" You make me rememafter the antique, and the little boy is clothed in ber,” said another, " that I promised Madame silk, and wcars a girdle, just as in the year 1789:

Lucival her gown.” if he were a Frenchman he should be dressed They immediately ran out; and I mentally like a bussar."

exclaimed, -Gentleinen artists, you are then “ And what do you think of this picture, does shoemakers and tailors : yet your judgment is it seem good ?"-" That it is, I am sure, not always erroneous, and would be more favour. claimed the other; “ for, without looking any

able perhaps to painters than that of men of their further, examine this pair of boots, I swear that own profession. Colmant, who invented boots without seams,

[To be continued.] could not have done them better."

“ Oh! look at that young man, how handsome he is."-" Which, he that is in a full dress "_"He' that is playing with his sister !"

ANTIQUARIAN RESEARCHES, * “ No, that young man who is listening to his father with an air of submission and respect, while the father gives him a lesson."-"Whal, that one who receives a lesson from his father ;

(Continued from p. 165.] pho! it is not at all fashionable, I tell you, I understand these sort of things; I am not an artist for nothing."

The ladies' hair was curled and frizzled wi:lı “Oh! Gentlemen, do look at those beautiful the nicest art, and they frequently set it off with horses! they are by M. Vernet, how well they i heart-breakers (artificial curls). Sometimes a are shaped ; I have been at Longchamp, at the string of pearls, or an ornament of ribband, was Bois de Boulogre, at Ranelugh, and at Franconi's worn on the head ; and in the latter part of tbis Circus, and, upon my word, there were none to reign, hoods of various kinds were in fashion. be compared to these, "-"Pho, he only pays al Patchivg and painting the face, iban which notention to horses, and the men, and thc land- | thing was more common in France, was also tuo scape, and the order of battle? What do you say common in England; but what was much worse, to these ?"-" Genily, rently, why, it is culy a they affected a mean betwixt dress and nakedness, sketch."-"Oh! what then will the picture be which occasioned the publication of a book en. when it is coinpleted."

titled, “ A just and seasonable Reprehension of “ You may be in extacy, gentlemen, but naked Breasts and Shoulders, with a Preface, by look before you, there is effect, colouring, and Richard Baxter." design; it is so dazzling that it makes my eyes It appears from the "Memoires de Grammopy," ache.” “Oh! the fine Egyptian costumes! what, that green stockings were worn by one of the drapery! what sharles !-- \Vhy, looking at this greatest beauties of the English, court; it is also picture, can but improve the artists; here are at generally believed, that beaver hats were fuse worn least twenty turbans that may be copied for the by old women in this reign.

INTO THE ORIGIN AND DIVERSITIES OF

COSTUME.

CHARLES II.

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