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LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE.
For JUNE, 1807.
EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION
hand. Chinese fan of frosted crape, with ivory
sticks, carved in Egyptian characters. No. 1.-MORNING WALKING DRESS. A plain round gown of French cambric, or
I No. 3.-Parisian FULL Dress. jaconot muslin; long sleeve, wrape front, and I A round train dress of India inuslin of the spenser back. Open shirt, frillerl round the clearest texture, worn over a white satin slip, neck with scolloped lace. Mountain hat of ornamented round the bottons, and up the front, straw, or Imperial chip, trimmed with jonquille with a rich border composed of ruby foil, and ribband. Shoes and gloves to correspond. Fle- gold embroidery; long waist and stiff stay; the mish mantle of twill sarsnet. Gold hoop ear dress formed with a round bosom, and cut so low rings; and patent parasol of shaded green, as greatly to expose the bust; the back simply
drawn to a point at the extremity of the waist No. 2.-FULL DRESS.
behind, and finished with a short sash of white A round robe of white Italian crape over white satin. A full sleeve, ornamented towards the sarsnet; with frock back, plain sleeve, and point- | bottom with a roll and tuft of satin, finished at ed front; trimmed round the bottom, bosom, the extreme edge, round, and across the bosom and sleeves with an elegant border, composed of with a full trimming of the same, or witir plaitthe pearl bead, blended with green foil and gold. lings of French net. Hair in the Eastern style, The robe confined at the centre of the bosom formed of the cable braid, bound and twisted on with a brooch formed of a single pearl. One the forehead in alternate bands and knuts, conrow of the same forms the necklace, which is fined in a similar style behind with a caul of fastened with an emerald snap. Hoop earrings, gold net. Earrings and necklace of rubies, set and bracelets to correspond. Hair à-la-Madona | transparent, and linked with gold bracelets to on the forehead, twisted behind, and Aowing in correspond. White kid gloves; and white satin full curls on the crown of the head; a bunch of shoes, with gold rosets. white roses in front, inclining towards the right side. Gloves of French kid; shoes of white
No. 4_WALKING, OR CARRIAGE Costume. satin, with silver trimming. Square shawl of A Cossack spenser and cap of lilac twill sarsnet, Chinese silk, with a rich pointed border; finished || ornamented with silk frogs, cords, and tassels at each point with correspondent tassels. The of the same colour; high collar, and sleeve with style of wearing this graceful ornament is, simply Il full tops. A plain round dress of cambric, or giving it a twist from the cross corners, and simply open-hemmed at the bottom, or let in flinging it negligently over the left shoulder ; | with work or lace. Straw-coloured kid gloves, thus one point ornaments the figure behind, while and shoes the colour of the spenser. Large the others, falling irregularly, form a drapery on || parasul of the Easteru form. the left side, and gracefully occupy the right II No. XVII. Vol. II.
of a minute representation, but we offer to our OF THE
readers such a description as its fanciful structure MOST PREVAILING FASHIONS, ' || will best afford. The one which attracted our OBTAINED FROM OUR USUAI. SOURCES OF TASTE
notice was formed of a silver lilac, or shot sarsnet,
and the effect in front is somewhat resembling AND ELEGANCE.
the spenser, having a high collar and long sleeve; In our last Number, inspired by hope and but a mantle, or scarf, is suspended from the left proinise, we dwelt on the progressive loveliness shoulder with a few gathers, crossing the back of returning Spring; we lingered with fond ex- | | plain behind, and flowing in the form of the hood pectation on the budding foliage, and viewed | worn by our Masters of Arts, except that it with pleasure, heightened by anticipation, the wraps over the adverse side, is fastened with a bursting blossom, herald of coming splendour. | belt of a gathered silk across the bosom ; and The rich and glowing beauties of the expanded the whole of the mantle is trimmed round with foliage, the blossom ripened into full maturity, a border of silk in reversed gathers. On alall and and rich in gay luxuriance, now arrests the ad-li elegant figure, nothing can ourvie the very dis. miring eye. The face of nature wears one uni- || tinguishing effect of this article. The bonnet versal smile, and beauty, magnificence, and grace worn with it was the Foley poke, formed of the reign alike in the animal and vegetable kingdom.|| same material as the vest. The Spanish mantle The charms of the country, and the pleasures of is a species of the Gipsy, or Spanish cloak of the town, now hold forth their rival clains; and established celebrity ; but is much shorter, is while Flora invites by her gay and rural fragrance, ! formed of sarsnet, cut to a point behind, and and soothes to calm tranquillity the bosom agitated sloped square on each side, till it meets the bend with worldly cares, the Goddess of Fashion and of the elbow ; it is formed with pointed capes, Pleasure offers mingled scenes of splendour and nearly resembling those of the Polish pelice given delight. The enchanting witcheries of grace and in our winter Points of Fashion; the cape and beauty surround their festive board, and the Il cloak are trimmed entirely round with a border heart willingly surrenders itself at the shrine of of the same material in reversed gathers. This taste and loveliness, taken captive by the eye and very neat and ingenious trimming is the most the ear.
novel and select finish for all kinds of coats, Nothing can exceed in attractive elegance the spensers, and inaniles that has come within our present race of our fashionable fair"; rich in all observation for a length of time. Before we quit tasteful invention, and unrivalled in amiability, this article of attire, we will give to our fair corgrace, and bcauty, they offer examples every respondents the only ornament in the style of a way worthy of imitation. In our grand assem scarf which has struck us as worthy of notice. blies of rank and fashion, there is every charm It is composed of a simple width of muslin, which can engage the eye or captivate the heart. | coloured or white, is two yards and a quarter In our theatres, in the Park and Gardens (where | long, and one yard wide; it is doubled in form in this land of liberty the peasant is as free as his of a roll at the edge, and immediately above is lord), the eye wanders from object to ubject, till placed a ribband of correspondent hue with the adnuiration is lust in a chaos of delight. In the scarf, laid Mat all round, and at each corner is fixed Gardens, (that place of fashionable resort and 9 tassel in form of an acorn. This scarf is thrown public display) the softened charm of the country over the left shoulder, crosses the back, and mingles with the splendour of a rich, lasteful, passing under the left arm, is brought over and Aourishing metropolis. We never recollect the bosom, and meets at the opposite corner, a period when this last-mentioned spot exhibited | where it is confined with a diamond pina more brilliant assemblage of beauty and fa. Thus disposed, the ends on the left side nearly shion than at this present season.
reach the feet in irregular folds, and the right The out-door costume of our fashionable fe constitutes a short pointed tunic. Many of our males, was never more tastefully selected-it is fashionable belles liave this scarf formed of lace, al once various and attractive. We shall en or crape, embroidered tastefully at the edge, and deavour to delineate such as appeared to us most placed as above, over a white sarin under-dress; novel and striking. And amidst these we must this forms a most elegant drawing-room costume. remark the Hungarian vest, the Spanish mantle, Little alteration has taken place in the style of Cossack spenser, Grecian scarf, and French coat. full dress since our last communication. French The latter article is particularly described in our aprons over sarsnet sowuis, ornamented with nalast Number; the Hungarian vest is perhaps the tural flowers, are still considered fancifully elemost graceful and elegant ornament of the kind gant. Robes ofjonquille Italian crape over white that was ever offered at the shrine of taste and Il satin, and frocks of lilac muslin, with white sarsfashion. It is of too fanciful a formation to allow net or satin slips, are the distinguishing selectiva
of the fashionable and youthful female. The throat with a sarsnet ribbon tied in short bows, bosoms of full dresses are universally made sol with ends reaching below the waist, finished with high as to ask no aid from the neckerchief; but the cone, or acom tassel. If the morning dress is we still look in vain for a molest veil to shade made low in the neck, then the einbroidered the back and the shoulders. We cannot conceive habit shirt is considered as indispensable. These how the sex can so degenerate from their wonted shirts are an arricle which it will be long before ideas of taste, judgment, and delicacy, as to con fashion relinquishes; for the female who may tinue this unbecoming display. We lament the have declined the exposure of the neck and more exceedingly this impolitic and gross custom; throat, will in vain search for an omanient of as in other instances the taste and elegance of our such becoming or consistent el gance. Trinkets English Belles stand at this inoment unrivalied. vary liitlesince our last communication. Brooches The costume à la Mary Queen of Scols, is at for the bosom and throat are still a fashionable this moment selected by a few individuals whose appendage. Diamonds and pearls, when set after rank and fortunes give them a lille to that sin the modern taste, are amidst those valuable and gularity, which in a more ubscure situation, would choice ornaments which will never be oldi. Garbe out of place and unbecoming. But as this nets, rubies, and emeralds, are universally set style of decoration can never be consistently transparent. Seed coral, and pearl of the calle adopted by the many, we recommend the simple form, with the barrel snap, are much worn for frill of double vandyke lace, gathered easily full necklaces and bracels; and the carring in every round the back and terminating at the corner of thing but brilliantsis most fashionable of the each shoulder in front. With either muslin or hoop form. Shoes in a general way are of jean coloured crape dresses, this embellishment is or kid, the colour of the hat or mantle. In the highly advantageous to the figure. Sashes gene evening dress they are usually of painted kid ; rally form a part of the evening dress; they are white jean or satin with gold or silver rosets. of three kinds. The short sash of ribbon simply Gloves, except in full dress, are entirely an article tied behind. The long sash terminating on the of choice; but the Limerick, York tan, and left side with acorn tassels; and the Persian sash white kid, are those selected by the female of à la militaire; but it should be remembered that taste and propriety. The most prevailing colours a sash of any kind can only be a graceful append for the season are, pale or spot lilac primrose, age to a plain dress. It is but an aukward incum. apple blossom and pea-green. brance where any kind of drapery is introduced; and when the robes are ornamented up the front,
LETTER ON DRESS, it is a supernumerary which destroys one pleasing effect without producing another. In the article
DESCRIPTIVE OF THE FASHIONS FOR KENSINGof hats and bonnets, we are enabled to give an
TON GARDENS. extensive communication. Hats of the satin,
Sunday Night, May 24, 1807. straw, or imperial chip of the Gipsy form, with
I was at church in the morning, dear Julia, the bee-hive crown, together with the cottage 1 and heard a most comfortabie discourse on the bonnet and provincial poke, are the morning
virtues of benevolence, and charity, &c. &c. and wear of such females as would exhibit an ex
not finding any interdiction to harınless recreaternal distinguishing, retired, and elegant; but tion, at three o'clock I willingly accompanied the French bonnet of coloured sarsnet, fancifully my tonish cousins to that splendid resort of and variously formed, is the most novel and select
beauty and fashion, called Kensington Gardens. for the evening, or carriage costume. Nothing || A packet is, I find, going to Cornwall to-morrow, can be more simply attractive, than these very and though not exactly according with the rules becoming ornaments. It would occupy too much of the vicarage, I trust I may be pardoned this space to dwell minutely on this article; suffice once, devoting the present evening to friendship, it that they are generally of the irregular poke fashion, and you. In all my letters, dear Julia, form, shallow or deep, as best suits with the I have endeavoured to give you a faithful detail countenance or taste of the wearer; they are of the fashions and customs of that world I have generally ornamented with French pusfing; but for many months been destined to inhabit, and as this is considered by many too set and formal when I seal up my packets, so full of variety, I a trimming for the edge, a full roll of puckered feel no despair of procuring any novel communisarsnet, not unfrequently supplies its place. With cation for my subsequent epistles, But so fertile tliese bonnets are sometimes seen the large flow in taste and invention is the ever varying Goddess, ing tippet, or cottage whisk, composed of the and so rich in splendour and elegance are our same material, trimmed with thread lace, Morn Belles at this gay season, that I am more puzzled ing dresses are made high in the neck, with a deep | with the redundancy than puined by the scanıiness scolloped collar, which is confined round the l of her offerings. Had that wish (ever near my