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an Italian iron). This is done to make the bottom of the skirt of the dress sit out and round, which it does to perfection.

The hats are worn less falling back upon the neck that they have been for a length of time; that is to say the crowns are an idea more elevated. They are small and do not shade the face much. The straw bonnets which are extremely fashionable this year are frequently seen trimmed with two different ribbons, as light blue and dark blue, apple green and emerald green, sulphur and lilac &c., velvet trimmings are however coming in for the autumn. The fronts of these bonnets are now made to sit in a peculiar form, at the top (over the brow) they are made to sit nearly close, and are very long, they must sit out as wide as possible. The strings being put on the inside facilitates this form.

Crape and lace Capottes à Coulisses ornamented with wreaths of field flowers as daisies, scarlet poppies, wheat, grass &c., are fashionable in carriage custome. Scarfs of every description, are seen to the utter exclusion of shawls, spencers, &c. Those of black lace lined with coloured silk are the most distingue. We have new scarfs of cashmere with both sides alike, and some with a distinct pattern on each side. They are called Echarpes sans revers.

Your friend Madame de R. gave a dejeunè at her cottage at Turenne one day last week; fortunately the weather was most propitious. I will describe some of the toilettes to you, indeed all were worthy of mention, could I particularize the costumes of about a cinquartaine of our elegantes; but ma chère Amie, had I the patience to describe them I doubt if you would have sufficient to read them!

Madame L and her three beautiful daughters were amongst the most fashionable. La Maman wore a dress of orange barège, à petits dressing blanes. The skirt was trimmed with bouillons, the sleeves long à petits gigots. Her hat was of orange crape, with a wreath of China asters of a pale blue shade, and her scarf of black lace was lined with the same color.

Her two eldest daughters wore skirts of pink Tarlatane with white Canezous à cou

lisses and pink gauze capottes covered with tulle and ornamented with wreaths of provence roses intermixed with purple heath. The third sister was in white, (organdi) and blue scarf and ribbons, and a blue crape bonnet with a bunch of the white mauve (mallow) drooping at one side.

The demoiselles V. all wore nankeen color dresses, with green pipings and Leghorn hats with green feathers.

Several dresses were of various shades of lilac, from the delicate fleur de pécher (peach blossom) to the deep] mauve bordering on purple.

Dresses of dimity and piqués Anglois (a kind of Marseilles,) are much worn in morning custome, they are trimmed down the fronts with frills à plis tuyautè.

Ceintures with buckles are wholly exploded except en négligé. The morning peignoirs have Cordelières. And sashes of very wide ribbon encircling the waist and tied in front with the long ends left floating, are worn in nearly every other custome.

Canezous are fashionable; and I have seen several with long sleeves worn with colored skirts.

Have you seen one of our new bracelets yet, called la Bracelet à la Catarina? It is one of the most charming novelties that has appeared for a length of time. It owes its origin to the pretty madame Thillon one of our most popular actresses. She wears it in a piece called Les Diamans de la Couronne; but I must describe it. It is a broad and massive gold bracelet, with or without jewels, it is worn above the elbow, indeed, close to the bottom of the short sleeve, to which it seems to form a finishing; it is attached by a beautifully wrought Mexican gold chain to a small and delicate bracelet, richly ornamented with some precious stones, and worn on the wrist. C'est tout â fait ravissant.

I must not omit to tell you that the newest aprons are made round, the corners, so much, taken off. They have two flounces of lace or of the material of which they are made. Those in organdi (book muslin) are the most fashionable of all. There are a number of runnings at the waist in front, done so as to form a

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DESCRIPTION OF THE PARIS FASHION PLATES IN THE PRESENT NUMBER.

No. 948.-Dinner and Evening Dresses.— 1st Figure-Dress of embroidered tarlatane. The corsage is tight to the bust, with one seam in front. The sleeves are short and tight, and have two falls of lace put on nearly plain. The skirt is ornamented with two flounces, richly embroidered; the lower one, which is remarkably deep, reaches to the edge of the dress, whilst the upper one, which is very narrow, forms a kind of heading to the other (see plate). The Berthe is of a most becoming and novel form, and is edged all round with narrow lace. The coiffure consists of a half cap of blonde, trimmed with pink ribbons and flowers. It is worn far back, but comes low at the sides of the face. It is without brides or strings to tie. The hair is en bandeaux lisses, and the back dressed very low. White kid gloves, black satin shoes, bouquet.

2nd Figure.-Half cap, trimmed with blue ribbons and flowers, having lappets at the sides that fall over the shoulders (see plate). The dress is of India muslin; the skirt ornamented with six tucks, edged with narrow lace, and placed each, two together, and the dress embroidered between (see plate). The sleeves are very short, and are finished with a narrow lace canezou of India muslin. The form is very simple. It comes to a point at

the waist, both at front and back (see plate), and has a round falling collar and lappels in front. It is trimmed all round with a small plaited frill, edged with a narrow lace, and is fastened at the neck with a small cord and tassels. The scarf is of blue gauze, with a deep silk fringe, white kid gloves, reaching but a short way above the wrist, black satin shoes, handkerchief trimmed with lace; hair in smooth bands; brooch.

No. 949.-Promenade and Carriage Costume-Dress of grey satin; the corsage is made three quarters high, and sloped at the front of the neck en cœur. It is tight to the bust, and has three rows of bouillon trimming or puffing of the material of the dress, coming from the shoulder to the centre of the waist en eventail (see plate). The sleeves are rather full, but taken in very far down at the top of the arm, and also from a little way below the elbow to the wrist (see plate). They are finished with narrow lace ruffles, falling over the edge of the glove. The capotte is of lace à coulisses (drawn); it is very small, scarcely shading the face at all. It has a wreath of roses going across the top. Hair in long ringlets, yellow gloves, rose color parasol, handkerchief trimmed with lace. Pure color brodequins.

2nd Figure.-Drawn capotte of moss-green crape, trimmed with the same. It comes rather more over the face than the white one, and it is cut all in one piece with the exception of the round at top (see plate); it is without flowers, or any ornament whatever. The dress is of nankeen color silk. The corsage is tight, and three quarters high; the sleeves are similar to those of the other dress. Gauze scarf, collars of guipure, pink parasol, trimmed with narrow lace, white kid gloves, pure color, half boots.

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221

THE SOLDIER OF GREECE.

"TROU art the inspiration of my song."-SHELLEY.

"On the sea a smile-on the breeze a sigh,

O'er the hearts that united with love beat high.”—W. L.

The waves roar thro' the Dardanelles,

A mighty storm their force impels :
But anchor'd on the Grecian shore,
A boat is waiting, man and oar;
And not the terrors of the storm

Retards the launching of that boat,
Nor daunt's young Ali's manly form,
Whose breath now gives the bugle note.

So fearless, calm, and stern, he stood
'Mid thunder's peal, and raging flood,
As if the lightning had e'er now
'Grav'd Conqueror upon his brow.
A warrior band, with gun and steel,
Leap lightly o'er the yielding keel.
The bugle blast floats faint away,

Quivering 'mong tempests-rent and riven;
The boat bounds forward thro' the spray,
Now seeking earth,-now climbing Heaven.

On Candia's low and sea-girt shore,

The Turks hold fearful feast to-night;
And wives and virgins, many a score
Meet worse than death ere morning's light.
"Speed,-speed! GOD dwells in every arm

That strike's one blow in beauty's work;
"There's paradise in every charm

"Ye rescue from the brutal Turk."
His voice might seem the winds to quell ;
His men obey so swift and well,

Where ships might sink, that boa and crew
Will pass unarm'd the waters through;
As if from mischief fain would pause,
The fiends themselves in such a cause.

The sun is set-the signal gun

Proclaims the festival begun.

The maid with streaming eyes and hair;

The matron's shriek of wild despair!

The savage yell,-the fiendish glee

O'er scenes of blood and misery

(Such horrors as hate may disclose,

From Moslem over Christian foes,)

The tongues that mock,-the weak that pray
The lust to spoil,-the sword to slay,

Are gathered there in dark array.

Night deepens round each sentinel;
Fast speed on earth the deeds of hell;
Some bleed, but see,-behind yon rock,-
That flash foretels the battle's shock,-
A second-third-illumes the shore;
At each. a Moslem lies, in gore.

"Il Alla Hu "—that hostile shout
Precedesthe wild dismay of rout.
Not knowing whom,-how strong their foes
And drunken in supine repose,

T-(COURT MAGAZINE)--SEPTEMBER, 1841.

Altho' employed in slaughter all,
Yet unprepar'd the Moslems fall.

By the torch and the watch-fires' fitful light,
The young Greek warriors glance in sight.
One muttered sound of revenge had they,
Like panthers springing on their prey.

Aye, well mav ye rush o'er the blood-stain'd sand
From the deadly shock of that headlong band,
Thro' your palsied ranks so suddenly driven,-
It seems like the bolt of indignant Heaven,
While shouts of deliverance wildly run,
Ali hath sped to the rescue of one,-

For the soldier had bask'd in a fair one's eyes,-
Thro' the pitilesss world his chosen prize.
The scymetar is rais'd and bare ;-
The headsman's hand within her hair,-
A bound-the clashing steel-a blow,-
And Azim stands o'er a lifeless foe;
And panting, smiling, from alarm,-
His bride is clasped by her lover's arm.
So the flow'r the blast hath bent in the plain,
Rises in smiles to the sun again

The tempest is lull'd o'er the laughing tide;

The sabres are sheath'd that were lifted in hate;
Aud the young Greek embraces his rescued bride;-
One moment of transport snatch'd from fate-

ON THE SEA A SMILE ON THE BREEZE A SIGH,

O'ER THE HEARTS THAT UNITED WITH LOVE BEAT HIGH.

W. LEDGER.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PORTRAIT OF CATHERINE OF ARAGON,
FIRST WIFE OF HENRY VIII.

[No. 102 of the Series of beautifully colored full-length Authentic Ancient Portraits.]

(Accompanying the present Number.)

THE head dress consists of a chaperon, composed of black velvet, made on a gold and jewelled frame work, and faced with tawny-colored velvet. It is in form a good deal like those seen in the portraits of Anne Boleyn*, and Jane Seymour, with the exception that the black velvet falls like a veil at back below the shoulders, and wholly shades that part of the neck. The robe is of splendid amaranth velvet, cut with a train, and bordered at bottom with sable fur. The corsage is square at the bosom and edged round the neck with a jewelled band, composed of pearls and emeralds placed alternately. The graceful zebras sleeves of sable, fall very low and nearly conceal the under ones, which are of Amaranth velvet, slashed in the Spanish style at the wrist, puffings of fine lawn being visible through the slashes, they are edged with fine gold cord and the wristband is of gold. The chemisette is worn up to the throat, it is either of lace or of lawn of the most delicate texture, and exquisitely embroidered. The ruffles which fall over the hands are of the same. The necklace, with a portrait proba

bly attached, is a chain of pearls and emeralds set in crosslets: after going tight round the throat it falls inside the bosom of the dress. Festoons of rich pearl chains likewise. Cross the feet of the corsage of the robe, they are fastened at the corners, and carried over the shoulders, and, most likely, across the back of the dress. The cordeliere is of the most magnificient description, consisting of a double row of pearls, confined at distances by medallions of emeralds set in wrought gold and terminating with a rich ornament, whence depend three large pear pearls. She wears a ruby ring on the fore finger of her left hand, in which she holds a rose.

See these portraits in our list, Nos. 6 and 7,

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