Note 14, page 44, col. 2.

speaking, escaped observation. If I cannot supply the deficiency, I will not follow their example; and hap

Mine but for those, who, like Jean Jacques, delight.

"J'aime beaucoup ce tournoiement, pourvu que je Py should I be, if by an intermixture of verse and sois en sûreté."-Les Confessions, 1. iv.

Note 15, page 44, col. 2.
-just where the Abbot fell.

"Où il y a environ dix ans, que l'abbé de St. Maurice, M. Cocatrix, a été précipité avec sa voiture, ses chevaux, sa cuisinière, et son cocher."-Descript. du Valais, p. 120.

Note 16, page 45, col. 1.

Painted by Cagliari.
Commonly called Paul Veronese.

Note 17, page 45, col. 1.
-quaffing gramolata.

A sherbet half-frozen.

Note 18, page 45, col. 2.

Like him who, in the days of Minstrelsy.

Petrarch, Epist. Rer. Sen. 1. v, ep. 3.

Note 19, page 45, col. 2.

Before the great Mastino.

Mastino de la Scala, the Lord of Verona. Cortusio, the ambassador and historian, saw him so surrounded.-L. 6.

This house had been always open to the unfortunate. In the days of Can Grande, all were welcome; Poets, Philosophers, Artists, Warriors. Each had his apartment, each a separate table; and at the hour of dinner, musicians and jesters went from room to room. Dante, as we learn from himself, found an asylum there.

Lo primo tuo rifugio, e'l primo ostello Sarà la cortesia del gran Lombardo, Che'n su la scala porta il santo uccelle. Their tombs in the public street carry us back into the times of barbarous virtue; nor less so do those of the Carrara Princes at Padua, though less singular and striking in themselves. Francis Carrara, the Elder, used often to visit Petrarch in his small house at Arqua, and followed him on foot to his grave. Note 20, page 46, col. 1.

And shall I sup where Juliet at the Masque. The old Palace of the Cappalletti, with its uncouth balcony and irregular windows, is still standing in a lane near the market-place; and what Englishman can behold it with indifference?

When we enter Verona, we forget ourselves, and are almost inclined to say with Dante,

Vieni a veder Montecchi, e Cappalletti.

Note 21, page 46, col. 1.
Such questions hourly do I ask myself.

It has been observed that in Italy the memory sees more than the eye. Scarcely a stone is turned up that has not some historical association, ancient or modern; that may not be said to have gold under it.

prose, of prose illustrating the verse, and verse embellishing the prose, I could furnish my countrymen on their travels with a pocket-companion.

Note 29, page 47, col. 2.
The lagging mules-
The passage-boats are drawn up and down the
Brenta.

Note 30, page 47, col. 2.

That child of fun and frolic, Arlecchino.

A pleasant instance of his wit and agility was exhibited some years ago on the stage at Venice.

"The stutterer was in an agony; the word was inexorable. It was to no purpose that Harlequin suggested another and another. At length, in a fit of despair, he pitched his head full in the dying man's stomach, and the word bolted out of his mouth to the most distant part of the house."-See MOORE'S View of Society in Italy.

Note 31, page 47, col. 2.

A vast Metropolis.

"I love," says a late traveller, "to contemplate, as

Note 40, page 49, col. 2.

Down which the grizzly head of old Faliero
Roll'd from the block.

I float along, that multitude of palaces and churches," in the records of the Republic; and his house has, which are congregated and pressed as on a vast raft." from that time to this, been called La Corte del Mil-"And who," says anothor, "can forget his walk lioni," the house of the rich man, the millionnaire. through the Merceria, where the nightingales give It is on the canal of S. Giovanni Chrisostomo; and, you their melody from shop to shop, so that, shutting as long as he lived, was much resorted to by the your eyes, you would think yourself in some forest- curious and the learned. glade, when indeed you are all the while in the middle of the sea? Who can forget his prospect from the great tower, which once, when gilt, and when the sun struck upon it, was to be descried by ships afar off: or his visit to St. Mark's church, where you see nothing, tread on nothing, but what is precious; the for all agate, jasper; the roof mosaic; the aisle hung with the banners of the subject cities; the front and its five domes affecting you as the work of some unknown people? Yet all this will presently pass away; the waters will close over it; and they, that eome, row about in vain to determine exactly where it stood."

count; but he is now universally known through a
Of him and his conspiracy I had given a brief ac-
the admiration of other countries as of his own.
Writer, whose poetical talents command as much
Note 41, page 49, col. 2.

A short inscription on the Doge's chair
Led to another on the wall yet shorter.
Marino Faliero dalla bella moglie: altri la gode ed
egli la mantiene.

Locus Marini Faletri, decapitati pro criminibus.

Note 42, page 49, col. 2.
Carmagnola.

"Il Conte, entrando in prigione, disse: Vedo bene chi'o son morto, e trasse un gran sospiro."-SANUTO.

Note 43, page 49, col. 2.

And bore away to the canal Orfano.

A deep channel behind the island of S. Giorgo Maggiore.

Note 44, page 50, col. 1.

"Who were the Six we supp'd with yesternight ?" An allusion to the Supper in Candide.-C. xxvi.

Note 45, page 50, col. 1. "Who answer'd me just now?"

See Schiller's Ghost-seer.-C. i.

Note 46, page 50, col. 1.

"But who stands there, alone among them all?" See the history of Bragadino, the Alchymist, as related by Daru.-Hist. de Venise, c. 28.

A person yet more extraordinary is said to have appeared there in 1687.

Those, who have experienced the advantages which all strangers enjoy in that City, will not be surprised that one who went by the name of Signor Gualdi was admitted into the best company, though none knew who or what he was. He remained there some months; and three things were remarked con

See Petrarch's description of them, and of the tour-cerning him-that he had a small but inestimable nament-Rer. Senil. 1. 4, ep. 2.

Note 38, page 49, col. 1.

some from merry England. "Recenti victoria exultantes," says Petrarch, alInding, no doubt, to the favorable issue of the war France. This festival began on the 4th of August,

1364

Note 39, page 49, col. 1.
And lo, the madness of the Carnival.

collection of pictures, which he readily showed to any
body-that he spoke on every subject with such a
mastery as astonished all who heard him-and that
he never wrote or received any letter, never re-
quired any credit or used any bills of exchange, but
spectably, though not splendidly.
paid for everything in ready money, and lived re-

"This gentleman being one day at the coffee-house, a Venetian nobleman, who was an excellent judge of pictures, and who had heard of Signor Gualdi's Among those the most followed, there was always collection, expressed a desire to see them; and his a mask in a magnificent habit, relating marvellous request was instantly granted. After contemplating adventures and calling himself Messer Marco Mil- and admiring them for some time, he happened to hon Millioni was the name given by his fellow-cast his eyes over the chamber-door, where hung a atzens in his life-time to the great traveller, Marco portrait of the Stranger. The Venetian looked upon Palo I have seen him so described," says Ramusio, it, and then upon him. This is your portrait, Sir,'

Note 52, page 51, col. 1.

said he to Signor Gualdi. The other made no answer hour?" said I to the gondolier. "I cannot guess, Sir; but by a low bow. Yet you look,' he continued, but, if I am not mistaken, it is the lover's hour."like a man of fifty; and I know this picture to be "Let us go home," I replied; and he turned the prow of the hand of Titian, who has been dead one hun- homeward, singing, as he rowed, the twenty-sixth dred and thirty years. How is this possible?' 'It is strophe of the sixteenth canto of the Jerusalem Denot easy,' said Signor Gualdi gravely, to know all livered. things that are possible; but there is certainly no crime in my being like a picture of Titian's.' The The young Bianca found her father's door. Venetian perceived that he had given offence, and Bianca Capello. It had been shut by a baker's boy, took his leave. "In the evening he could not forbear mentioning as he passed by, at day-break; and in her despair she what had passed to some of his friends, who resolved fled with her lover to Florence, where he fell by asto satisfy themselves the next day by seeing the pic-sassination. Her beauty, and her love-adventure as ture. For this purpose they went to the coffee-house here related, her marriage afterwards with the Grand about the time that Signor Gualdi was accustomed Duke, and that fatal banquet at which they were both to come there; and, not meeting with him, inquired poisoned by the Cardinal, his brother, have rendered at his lodgings, where they learned that he had set her history a romance. The Capello Palace is on out an hour before for Vienna. This affair made a the Canalé di Canonico; and the postern-door, la porta di strada, is still on its hinges. It opens into great stir at the time." one of those narrow alleys so numerous at Venice.

Note 47, page 50, col. 1.

All eye, all ear, nowhere and everywhere.

A Frenchman of high rank, who had been robbed at Venice, and had complained in conversation of the

Note 53, page 51, col. 1.

It was St. Mary's Eve.

This circumstance took place at Venice on the first negligence of the Police, was on his way back to of February, the eve of the feast of the Purification the Terra Firma, when his gondola stopped suddenly of the Virgin, A. D. 944, Pietro Candiano, Doge.

in the midst of the waves. He inquired the reason;
and his gondoliers pointed to a boat with a red flag,
that had just made them a signal. It arrived; and
he was called on board. "You are the Prince de
Craon? Were you not robbed on Friday evening?
I was. Of what?-Of five hundred ducats.-And
where were they?-In a green purse.-Do you sus-
pect any body?—I do, a servant.-Would you know
him again?-Certainly." The Interrogator with his
foot turned aside an old cloak that lay there; and the
Prince beheld his purse in the hand of a dead man.
"Take it; and remember that none set their feet
again in a country where they have presumed to
doubt the wisdom of the government."

Note 48, page 50, col. 2.

-his lay of love.

La Biondina in Gondoletta.

Note 49, page 50, col. 2.
Those Porches.

In the Piazzetta. "C'était sous les portiques de Saint-Marc que les patriciens se réunissaient tous les jours. Le nom de cette promenade indiquait sa destination; on l'appellait il Broglio."-DARU.

Note 50, page 50, col. 2.

Then in close converse.

Note 54, page 51, col. 1.

Such splendor, or such beauty.

"E'l costume era, che tutte le novizzie con tutta la dote loro venissero alla detta Chiesa, dov'era il vescovo con tutta la chieresia."-SANUTO.

Note 55, page 51, col. 1.

Her veil, transparent as the gossamer. Among the Habiti Antichi, in that admirable book of wood-cuts ascribed to Titian (A. D. 1590), there is one entitled Sposa Venetiana a Castello. It was taken from an old painting in the Scuola di S. Giovanni Evangelista, and by the Writer is believed to represent one of the Brides here described.

Note 56, page 51, col. 2.

That venerable pile on the sea-brink.
San Pietro di Castello, the Patriarchal church of
Venice.

Note 57, page 51, col. 2.

Well are they known, the galliot and the galley. "Una galera e una galeotta."-SANUTO.

Note 58, page 52, col. 1.

Laid at his feet.

They were to be seen in the treasury of St. Mark

I am indebted for this thought to some unpublished very lately. travels by the author of Vathek.

Note 59, page 52, col. 1.

And through the city in a stately barge.

"Le quali con trionfo si conducessero sopra una piatta 'canali di Venezia con suoni e canti."-SANUTO.

Note 60, page 52, col. 1.

-the Rialto.

An English abbreviation. Rialto is the name of the island from which the bridge is called; and the Venetians say il ponte di Rialto, as we say Westminster-bridge.

In that island is the Exchange; and I have often

walked there as on classic ground. In the days of
Antonio and Bassanio it was second to none. "I sotto-
portichi," says Sansovino, writing in 1580, "sono
ogni giorno frequentati da i mercatanti Fiorentini,
Genovesi, Milanesi, Spagnuoli, Turchi, e d'altre na-
tioni diverse del mondo, i quali vi concorrono in tanta
copia, questa piazza è annoverata fra le prime dell' ganean hills.
che
universo." It was there that the Christian held dis-
course with the Jew; and Shylock refers to it, when

he says,

Signor Antonio, many a time and oft,
In the Rialto you have rated me-

Andiamo a Rialto"-" L'ora di Rialto"-were on every tongue; and continue so to the present day, we may conclude from the comedies of Goldoni, and particularly from his Mercanti.

There is a place adjoining, called Rialto Nuovo ; and so called, according to Sansovino, "perche fu fabbricato dopo il vecchio."

Note 61, page 52, col. 1.

Twenty are sitting as in judgment there.

The Council of Ten and the Giunta, "nel quale," says Sanuto, "fu messer lo doge." The Giunta at the first examination consisted of ten Patricians, at the last of twenty.

Note 62, page 52, col. 2.

Note 69, page 54, col. 2.

Neglect to visit Arqua.

This village, says Boccaccio, hitherto almost unknown even at Padua, is soon to become famous through the World; and the sailor on the Adriatic will prostrate himself, when he discovers the Eu"Among them," will he say, "sleeps the Poet who is our glory. Ah, unhappy Florence! You neglected him-You deserved him not."

Note 71, page 54, col. 2.

He cultured all that could refine, exalt.

See an Essay on his Character, lately written by a Man no less eminent for his learning than his genius Ugo Foscolo.

Note 72, page 54, col. 2.

-that maid, at once the fairest, noblest. She was a Contarini; a name coeval with the Republic, and illustrated by eight Doges. On the occasion of their marriage, the Bucentaur came out in its splendor; and a bridge of boats was thrown across the Canal Grandé for the Bridegroom and his retinue of three hundred horse. Sanuto dwells with pleasure Affirming itself to be the very bucket which Tason the costliness of the dresses and the magnificence of the processions by land and water. The tourna-soni in his mock heroics has celebrated as the cause ments in the Place of St. Mark lasted three days, of war between Bologna and Modena five hundred years ago. If true, it is in wonderful preservation. and were attended by thirty thousand people.

Note 63, page 53, col. 1.

I have transgress'd, offended, wilfully.

It was a high crime to solicit the intercession of any Foreign Prince.

Note 64, page 53, col. 2.

-the Invisible Three.

-In its chain it hangs.

Note 73, page 54, col. 2.
Done by Zampieri-

Commonly called Domenichino.

Note 74, page 56, col. 2. And what a glorious lustre did it shed. Among other instances of her ascendency at the is related that Florence saw twelve of her citizens assembled at the Court of Boniface the Eighth, as Ambassadors from different parts of Europe and Asia. Their names are mentioned in Toscana Illustrata.

The State-Inquisitors. For an account of their close of the thirteenth century, authority, see page 52.

Note 65, page 53, col. 2.

It found him on his knees before the altar.

He was at mass.-Sanuto.

Note 66, page 54, col. 1.

And in his ledger-book.

A remarkable instance, among others in the annals of Venice, that her princes were merchants.

Note 75, page 56, col. 2.

In this chapel wrought.

A chapel of the Holy Virgin in the church of the Carmelites. It is adorned with his paintings, and all the great artists of Florence studied there; Lionardo da Vinci, Fra Bartolomeo, Andrea del Sarto, Michael Angelo, Raphael, etc.

He had no stone, no inscription, says one of his biographers, for he was thought little of in his lifetime.

Se alcun cercasse il marmo, o il nome mio,
La Chiesa è il marmo, una cappella è il nome.
It was there that Michael Angelo received the blow
in his face.-See VASARI and CELLINI.

91

A tradition.

Note 76, page 56, col. 2.
Would Dante sit conversing.

Note 77, page 56, col. 2.

Hadst plagued him sore, and carefully requiting.
After this line, read as follows:

Such as condemn'd his mortal part to fire:
Many a transgressor sent to his account,
Long ere in Florence number'd with the dead;
The body still as full of life and stir

At home, abroad; still and as oft inclined
To eat, drink, sleep; still clad as others were,
And at noon-day, where men were wont to meet,
Met as continually; when the soul went,
Relinquish'd to a demon, and by him

(So says the Bard, and who can read and doubt?)
Dwelt in and govern'd.

Sit thee down awhile;
Then by thy gates so beautiful, so glorious, etc.

A more dreadful vehicle for satire cannot well be conceived.

In 1302, he was sentenced, if taken, to be burned.

Inferno, xix.

Note 79, page 56, col. 2.

-he flew and saved him.

Note 80, page 56, col. 2.

Nor then forget that Chamber of the Dead.

Cimabue.

He was the father of modern painting, and the master of Giotto, whose talent he discovered in the way here alluded to.

"Cimabue stood still, and, having considered the boy and his work, he asked him, if he would go and live with him at Florence? To which the boy answered that, if his father was willing, he would go

The Chapel de' Depositi; in which are the tombs with all his heart."-VASARI. of the Medici, by Michael Angelo.

Note 81, page 56, col. 2.

That is the Duke Lorenzo. Mark him well. He died early; living only to become the father of Catharine de Medicis. Had an evil spirit assumed the human shape to propagate mischief, he could not have done better.

The statue is larger than the life, but not so large as to shock belief. It is the most real and unreal thing that ever came from the chisel.

Of Cimabue little now remains at Florence, except his celebrated Madonna, larger than the life, in Santa Maria Novella. It was painted, according to Vasari, in a garden near Porta S. Piero, and, when finished, was carried to the church in solemn procession with trumpets before it. The garden lay without the walls; and such was the rejoicing there on the occasion, that the suburb received the name of Borgo Allegri, a name it still bears, though now a part of the city.

Note 91, page 57, col. 2.

Beautiful Florence.

It is somewhere mentioned that Michael Angelo, when he set out from Florence to build the dome of St. Peter's, turned his horse round in the road to contemplate once more that of the cathedral, as it rose in the grey of the morning from among the pines and cypresses of the city, and that he said after posso!" He never indeed spoke of it but with ada pause, Come te non voglio! Meglio di te non miration; and if we may believe tradition, his tomb by his own desire was to be so placed in the Santa Croce as that from it might be seen, when the doors of the church stood open, that noble work of Bruneleschi.