PREFACE ΤΟ THE SECOND EDITION. THE Author has spared no pains in his endeavours to render the second edition of this work more worthy of public approbation than the first. By curtailing many superfluities, both in matter and style, he has obtained space to insert a great quantity of additional information, from his own journals, as well as from classical and modern authors. Moreover, by enlarging the second volume, he has been enabled to lay before the reader a complete narrative of the Life and Death of that extraordinary personage Ali Pasha of Ioannina, together with a concise account of the Revolution, in which he bore a distinguished part, and which has given independence to Greece. An Appendix had been prepared, containing matter very different from that which will now be found there: the change is owing to the advice of a judicious friend, who thought that the knowledge of some routes in Greece and Albania would be useful to any traveller in those countries who might consult this work previously to his departure from England. JUNE, 1830. Serais of Ali Pasha and his two sons, in Ioannina 437 View of Ioannina, from the Island of the Lake. 453 View of the Castle of Berat, and Turkish Cemetery Exit of the Acheron View of Suli and its surrounding scenery 34 107 The Acrocorinthus, or Acropolis of Corinth Bird's-eye view of the Pnyx at Athens. Excavations in the rock at Athens Sepulchre at Delphi Plan of Nicopolis View of a Greek Church at Arta VOL. I. Fountain of Viroua, and Fort of Schindriada Ancient gateway at Paramithia Ancient Cyclopéan Wall at Cichyrus 136 348 CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. THE Author proposes to visit Greece and other eastern countries— Embarks at Portsmouth-Arrives at Palermo-State of society there- Attempt to alter the form of government-Sicilian parliament-Amuse- ments-The conversazione-Education-Literature-Lottery-Justice— Ancient republic of Agrigentum-Splendid site of the city-Temples and other antiquities-Temple of Hercules-Of Olympian Jupiter-The Olympiæum-Ancient architects-Temple of Vulcan-La Meta, or the Goal-Temple of Esculapius-Tomb of Theron-Remains of walls- Gates- La Rupe Atenea'-Hospitality of Gellias-Large quarry- Church-Extent of the modern city-The cathedral-Shrine of San Gherlando-Public library-Filthy state of the place-The Benedictines of Catania-Festival at the Dominican convent-Excavations among the tombs-Celebration of harvest home-Castro Giovanni-View of Mount Ætna-Lake of Proserpine-Enna-Ancient castle converted into a Progress to Syracuse-Appearance of the great harbour-Hotel of the Leon D'Oro-Fountain of Arethusa-Story of Arethusa and Al- |