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and in one spot three stones alone form a piece of wall 13 feet in extent. These blocks are cut with great accuracy, and seem as firm as if they had been just put together: in the interior, the ground is almost on a level with the top of the wall. I entered by what appears to have been the principal gateway, and soon observed two octagonal columns about ten yards distant from each other, a fragment of a fluted pillar, and some other relics. The area is covered with briars and herbage, and exhibits marks of its having been occupied at two distinct periods since the ancient Hellenes. Thinking it probable that some inscription might be discovered, I procured assistance from the peasants in removing several blocks, and discovered one inscribed in large characters; AMBPAKINTA.

"Not far distant I found two more octagonal columns standing, like the others, erect, and about two feet in height, with various fragments, and foundations of edifices: there is also what I take to be the site of an immense theatre, facing the west, where the ground is seen to rise as by a succession of steps. The wall is most perfect on the eastern side of the hill along its brow; but it appears also at intervals on the western side: the whole circumference seems about two miles: in some parts the hill is scarcely 30 yards in breadth, and is intersected in its sides by deep hollows: at its north-west extremity (for it runs N.W. and S.E.) it is lower, and terminates almost in a point: towards the other end and on each side it is so steep as to make the ascent extremely difficult. The whole rises quite abruptly near the centre of the plain of Delvino; at the south-east end of which is the little village of Pheniké.*

*“This situation is assigned by Signore Psalida to the ancient oracle of Dodona; but the only features which appear to correspond with Strabo's account are the following:-1. The plain, very marshy, particularly towards

PHENIK E

MOURZINA.

391

"From hence I went along the banks of the Bistritza to its source; visiting in my way an old Greek church, dedicated to Saint Nicolo, about one hour from the village, which is evidently constructed with materials from the ruins the interior is supported by granite columns; and in the walls are several blocks sculptured in relief, with well executed figures of a lion, an eagle, &c. Amongst them I found one with an inscription defaced, but terminated by the word XAIPETE, "Farewell!" The source of the river is just below the village of Mourzina: half issues out of the rock in at least fifty streams of sweet and most transparent water: the other half proceeds from a pool, which appears very deep, as the surface is not ruffled by the least ebullition. From the rock, which appears to be of limestone, the water issues out in most the south, where two rivers lose themselves in a considerable lake, viz. the Bistritza, which flows from Mourzina five hours south-east from Pheniké, and the Kalesproti which runs on the west side of the hill.-2. The hill itself, surrounded on all sides by magnificent mountains, except towards the south where the sea and the island of Corfu are seen above the low eminences.3. The fountain on the cast side of the hill.

"The epithets dvoxeíuevos and aiπúvwTos, which Homer and Æschylus apply to Dodona, well accord with this situation: there are many trees, principally willows and poplars, on the plain; but I could discover no traces of the prophetic oaks."

From this accurate account of Mr. Jones, the classical reader will, I think, agree with me in what I have before observed regarding the fallibility of Signore Psalida's opinion regarding the site of Dodona. In fact, the ruins above mentioned belong to the ancient city of Phoenice, whose very name is still preserved in the modern village: it was the strongest and richest city of all Epirus; (πολὺ ἡ Φοινίκη διέφερε τότε τῶν κατὰ τὴν Ἠπειρὸν πόλεων evdaμovíą: Polyb. 1. ii.): it was betrayed by some Gaulish mercenaries to the Illyrians in the reign of Queen Teuta, a circumstance which Polybius says struck terror into the Grecian cities when they saw τὴν ὀχυρωτάτην ἅμα καὶ δυνατωτάτην πόλιν τῶν ἐν τῇ Ἠπείρῳ παραλόγως οὕτως ἐξηνδραποδιζομένην· (1. ii.) from hence he takes occasion to blame the Epirots for relying on such a faithless crew as the Gauls, and hints at the danger of trusting an opulent city to the protection of mercenaries.

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places with great velocity, and forms a stream as large as the Avon at Bath.

“From hence, passing through Mourzina, we proceeded between two immense ridges, branching off from that which forms the western boundary of the great vale of Deropuli, whose scenery soon burst upon our view, exhibiting a prospect of unparalleled magnificence in its noble mountains and its numerous towns and villages. We passed across it to a village on its eastern side, but the inhabitants would not receive us when they heard we came from the neighbourhood of Delvino: we were obliged therefore to keep on our course; and as it was a fine moonlight night, and we were travelling under a Grecian sky, we scarcely regretted our disappointment. We rested at Pondicatis, and next day reached Zitza, where the best wine in Greece is made; and this was the time of vintage. All the wine is made in the fields, where the grapes are put into large casks and trod upon by men bare-footed, till the juice is quite expressed; it is then carried in goatskins to the village, put into barrels, and left to ferment and settle it is removed in this manner four or five times before it is put into the cask for drinking.

"In my road from Zitza I passed through the village of Protopapas, which some consider as the site of Dodona; but I could find no ruins. The approach to Ioannina from the north appeared to me much finer than that from the south, its grand seraglio, fortress, minarets, and cypress groves being seen from this quarter to great advantage. On my arrival, October 12th, I was informed that two English gentlemen were in the city, one of whom lay dangerously ill. I went immediately and found the sick person to be a Mr. King, chaplain to the Ionian forces at Corfu, from whom I experienced many civilities. Great alarms were expressed, for fear lest his dis

order might be the plague, and I was earnestly requested to leave the place; this, however, I could not consent to do, especially as I perceived Mr. King's illness to be a malaria fever, which he, as well as his servant, had caught at Prevesa. He was apparently about forty years of age, and possessed of a very strong and robust constitution; but he died in my arms on the 15th, and I buried him next evening in the cemetery of St. Nicolo, where I afterwards placed a stone, inscribed with his name and titles, at the head of his grave. The day before I quitted Ioannina I visited the vizir in company with his companion Captain ScriThe chief subject of our conversation related to the unfortunate death of Mr. King, at which he appeared much affected; but whether this proceeded from humanity or not I will not pretend to say. The same day we also paid a visit to Salee Pasha, the vizir's youngest son, who had lately received two tails from the Porte and been created a pasha. He received us sitting like his father, and asked us several pertinent questions respecting our own country and our opinion of Albania."

ven.

CHAPTER XIII.

APRIL 6. This morning we started on our return. For a short distance we ascended the fine valley of the Apsus, terminated afar off by the huge Tomour,* and then, turning to the right, proceeded in a southerly direction through a

This mountain is called by Strabo Τόμαρος or Τμάρος; but Eustathius in Od. . gives it an appellation much nearer its modern sound; Tóμovpos. It is often mentioned by the Byzantine historians, and seems to have had a strong citadel or fortress in its vicinity. Τίμωρον Φρούριόν τι καὶ αὐτὸ ἐσπέριον περὶ Baλáyρita kioμevov (Cantacuz. Hist. p. 301.) If the Tomarus of Dodona be confined to this spot it will upset all the theories yet formed upon the subject but as this latter place is always reckoned in Epirus, and Tomour is far beyond its limits, some other range of hills must have had this appellation: in fact the mountains of Kolonia and Zagori appear to be but branches of this enormous trunk,