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gardeners, and those in charge of private gardens, to make the most of the Potato crop. The sets ought to be put in the ground in such a way that no water will lodge around them before they sprout, and the soil should be well and deeply cultivated to permit of the roots growing away freely at first, and the tubers to form without any check to their growth. A former President of the Royal Horticultural Society (Mr. Thomas Andrew Knight) experimented very much with the Potato, both as a field and garden crop. He was very careful to be exact in his experiments, else one would be inclined to doubt the correctness of some of his statements. He planted some Ashleaf Kidney Potatos in his garden, and the produce calculated per statute acre was 670 bushels of 80 lb. each, that is at the rate of 24 tons per acre, and in his letter he says:-"To obtain these vast crops of the Ashleaf Kidney I always plant whole Potatos, selecting the largest I can raise, and for a very early crop those ripened early in the preceding summer and kept dry. I usually plant them on their ends, to stand with the crown end upward, and place them at 4 inches distant, from centre to centre, in the rows-the rows 2 feet apart, and always pointing north and south." He says further :-"I plant my large Potatos much in the same way, but with wider intervals, according to the height which the stems attain; thus, one which grows a yard high, at 6 inches distance from centre to centre, and 3 feet 6 inches or 4 feet between the rows, never cutting any Potato, or planting one of less weight than a quarter, but generally half a pound. By using such large sets, I get very strong and large plants, with widely extended roots, very early in the summer." Mr. Knight further adds, "The blossoms take away a good deal of sap, which may be better employed in forming tubers; and whenever a Potato produces seeds I think it almost an insuperable objection to it." The time of planting is of great importance, but it is at the same time very difficult to decide when to do it. Before the disease came in 1845 late planting was more the rule than it is at present. By late planting we escape the spring frosts, but we are more likely to catch the disease. Frosts of considerable intensity are not uncommon in the first and second week of May, and I read in the Horticultural Register for 1831 that they were prevalent at that time. The Editor of the Domestic Gardeners' Manual says that the fatally destructive frost of May 6, 1831, destroyed every Potato leaf that had emerged from the ground. In 1860 we had 8° of frost on May 8. In 1867 a severe frost killed the Potatos on May 8, after the thermometer the week previous had been 85° in the shade. Taking these chances into account the farmers think it is better to plant early and risk the frost rather than to plant late and risk a probable loss by disease.

GARDEN CULTURE.

To obtain the best results the preparation of the ground is of very great importance. The ground should be well dug up as soon as the previous crop has been removed, in order that it may be well pulverised by the winter frosts. Our earliest crop is planted in two ways: one set of tubers is placed in single layers in boxes, and the boxes, in which have been placed 2 inches deep of fine soil, are placed in a cool greenhouse, vinery, or Peach-house; they are not covered with the mould, but merely pressed into it. When sprouted an inch or two they are carefully planted out without injuring the growths. The other portion is planted out on the first favourable opportunity after February I on an early border. The ground having been deeply dug and manured in the autumn, we begin at one end and lightly fork it over, planting the Potatos as the work proceeds; this system does away with the necessity of treading on the ground afterwards. Another plan is to draw drills, as for Peas; place the sets in the drills and then draw the earth over them, forming a ridge. I am planting for the earliest crop this year the old Ashleaf, Uxbridge Kidney, and Veitch's Improved Ashleaf. The two round varieties are Sutton's Early Regent and Lady Truscott. They gave great satisfaction last year. Victoria is still a great favourite with us, and for the latest of all Champion. I do not cut the tubers of any kidney Potatos, nor of Victoria. I ventured to cut some very large tubers of this lastnamed variety one season to make them plant more ground, but a large number of the cut sets did not grow at all, and there were many blanks. I would urge the importance of waiting if necessary until the ground is dry before planting Potatos on it. The plants are not likely to do so well when planted on wet ground; this remark applies more particularly to heavy soils. J. Douglas.

THE EUCHARIS MITE.

[WE are now enabled to publish illustrations of this mite, taken from Mr. Michael's paper in the Journal of the Royal Microscopical Society, and have added a copy of the figures given by Claparède, making the necessary correction.]

There is another member of the family of Tyroglyphidae (Rhizoglyphus Robini) which has been making itself unpleasantly conspicuous in this country in 1884. It was first described by Claparède in 1868; he found it upon Hyacinth, Potato, and Dahlia roots; he describes it, names it, and figures both the male and female with his accustomed skill and exactitude, but, by some strange error, he has misplaced the

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sexes, calling the male the female, and vice versa. I have not even noticed the species in England until 1884, but it may probably have existed, for I have not ever searched for it. In the latter half of 1884 I have been receiving it from numerous quarters, always accompanied by complaints of the damage it was doing. The first instance came from the Duke of Sutherland's famous hothouses at Trentham. Mr. Stevens, the skilful and energetic head of that establishment, found the Eucharis bulbs in their hothouses attacked, and sent some to Mr. E. Bostock, of Stone, for microscopical examination. That gentleman detected a Rhizoglyphus, and despatched the bulb to me in order that I might identify the species. Mr. Bostock also sent me about the same time a Hya

* "Studien an Acariden," Zetschr. f. Wiss. Zool., xviii. (1868), p. 506, pl. 38, figs. 7-11.

cinth bulb for examination for other purposes, which I found to be swarming with the same Acarus. About the same time I received it from Exeter, from Mr. The mite Parfitt, and from numerous other sources. not merely attacks the exterior of the tulb, but also forces itself in between the scales, and thus devours the fleshy parts of the interior, the wounds thus caused becoming coated in the case of the Eucharis bulbs with a hard brown gummy matter. The Hyacinth bulbs were utterly destroyed. It would seem wise therefore that at present importations of Dutch or other European bulbs should be submitted to some examination before being mixed with other bulbs of value; and that, if they be infected, sulphur, carbolic acid, or some other insecticide should be tried.

In keeping the present species, I soon began to breed Hypopi from the nymphs. The Hypopus is very different from that of T. corticis, not only from its greater size, but also from its shorter and broader form, different sucker-plate, the entire absence of the eye-like organs, and many other particulars. In this instance again I found what seems to me strong confirmation of my view as to the circumstances under which Hypopi are produced. The Rhizoglyphus was swarming on the Hyacinth bulbs; both sexes were thriving; breeding was going on very much more freely than the owners of bulbs would approve of; the creatures were all only too healthy, and were not in any way dried up or subject to any adverse circumstances; and yet Hypopi kept on appearing in large numbers, and, at the moment of writing this, they are swarming in my cells, accompanied, both there and on the bulbs, by numerous smaller Hypopi, being those of some species of the genus called Serrator by Mégnin (his original T. rostro-serratus), Philostoma by Kramer, and Histiostoma by Canestrini and Berlese. A. D. Michael.

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THE illustration on p. 441 (fig. 79) represents a fine specimen of an imbricated white variety flowered last autumn by Mr. E. Wills, gardener to Mrs. Pearce, Bassett, Southampton. It is stated that the variety lends itself capitally to the culture imposed by specimen growing, the habit being profuse as regards lateral shoots, which in the plant figured were much less stiffly trained than is usually witnessed in the imbricated section of the Chrysanthemum. The flowers are white, and the plant speaks itself for its abundant blooming habit.

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PEACH TREES UNDER GLASS.

As Peach tree forcing is sometimes disappointing to the inexperienced, it may be well to point out the chief causes of failure, as well as suggest the best and readiest means of overcoming them.

THE HOUSE.

Supposing a Peach house intended for very early forcing is about to be erected, I would recommend that it should be either a lean-to or a hip-roofed house, supported by a back wall. The house should be from 13 to 15 feet wide inside; the front wall should be about 3 feet high, and the front sashes about 2 feet 6 inches or 2 feet 9 inches deep; the front roof springing from these should be placed at an angle of about 35° or 37°. This elevation of roof may be greater than the general run of those for early Peach-houses, and may be objected to by some practitioners as being calculated to produce too arid an atmosphere, but I would here remark that early Peaches succeed admirably under such a roof because the sharp pitch catches every ray of sunshine at mid-winter and early spring, which is of far greater importance to them at this season than a stiller and moister atmosphere would be. For the same reason the position selected for the house should either face due south or incline a little towards the south-east, and it should be in an elevated position where neither trees, buildings, nor other objects can possibly intercept a single ray of sunshine. Whether the house be constructed of wood or ironand I must admit, for this special purpose, I would give the preference to the former-it should be constructed so as to admit as much light as possible. With the present improved method of glazing there is no necessity for thick bulky rafters, provided they are

sufficiently strong, with the assistance of the internal truss-rods or supports, to give stability and security against all weathers; that is all that is required.

GLAZING.

As to the methods of glazing there are now so many systems in force that it is rather difficult to determine which is the best, but my own experience leads me to recommend that system which is now termed the dry method, where the upright edges are simply butted against each other, and where a lap of at least 1 inch is allowed at the bottom of each square, where the purlins to which each square is secured by two or more clips of well prepared wire,

houses as being both chilly and drippy, and therefore quite unsuitable for the purpose of early forcing. I cannot help thinking that such persons have either not proved them personally, or else they have had experience only of such as have been badly constructed; be that as it may, I can only assert that they have as early peacheries far exceeded my most sanguine expectations. For the last six years I have found no difficulty in ripening Peaches in them by the end of April without an unusual amount of fire-heat which fact speaks for itself. As to the charges of coldness and drip they are simply incorrect. If the angle of the roof is what I have recommended, the glass good, carefully chosen, and

at the base of the house, at the back as well as at the front; the top ventilators should open about 2 feet wide the full length of the house: these lights may be all on one side of the ridge or in alternate lengths of about 4 feet on either side, as may be thought advisable. The ventilators at the base should be made of sliding shutters about 2 feet long, with similar intervals between them; they should be arranged in the front and back wall, immediately below the hot-water pipes, so as to ensure the air in cold weather being warmed as it enters the house; the front sashes should also open, although it will not be necessary to use them except in the hottest weather. Four 4-inch pipes will be required

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or other similar material, should be fixed to the rafters, and which should be the exact thickness of the lap, ie., 1 inch. The weight of glass should be fully 21 oz. to the foot, and if the position be a particularly breezy one, 26 oz. to the foot will not be any too stout. In purchasing the squares, which should be exactly 24 inches long by 18 inches wide, care should be exercised to select those only whose edges are perfectly straight and even, and in arranging them on the roof the convex side of the squares should always be placed uppermost, nor should the junction of any two squares be in an exact line with that of the two immediately below them. The wire or other metal clips are usually secured to the purlins by inch screws, but for many reasons I would recommend flat-headed copper tacks of the same length, as being equally secure and more preferable. I am well aware that many good authorities condemn these dry glazed

properly fixed, there need not be any doubt about them answering perfectly. They possess a few important advantages over sashed houses or such as are glazed on to the rafters, inasmuch as there is a gentle stream of air passing through the roof at all times, which effectually prevents the possibility of a stagnant atmosphere, even when the ventilators are closed; this in Peach forcing is most beneficial. Much less wood is required in forming the roof, the light is consequently greatly increased. Repairs are almost nil, and as there is but little wood exposed to the weather, painting is reduced to a minimum.

VENTILATION.

The internal arrangements have now to be cousidered. In the first place ventilation should be ample, not only at the apex of the roof, but also

along the front of the house, and two 4-inch along the back and ends, so as to ensure a sufficiency of heat in the severest weather without the necessity of having the pipes too hot.

TRELLISES.

The form and method of arranging the trellises will also have to be considered; longitudinal ones, describing an arc from the front to the back path and immediately below the glass, are generally preferred, and doubtless when heavy rafters and small squares were in use this was the only arrangement calculated to ensure sufficient light for their successful growth. Since this objection need no longer exist, there is no reason why this form of trellis should be used, as in these modern built houses there is more light admitted at their base than there was in the former ones immediately under the roof.

This being the case, transverse trellises placed under each rafter at intervals of about 5 feet 6 inches, extending from the front to the back wall, leaving an arch Over the back path, not only give an increased surface for training, but by this arrangement another great advantage is gained, as the light on the back wall is in no way obstructed, while experience has proved that the fruit at the base of the trees not only swells, but colours and ripens to perfection. Double trellises under each rafter placed about 6 inches apart, and where the trees are placed back to back, have also been tried with the best results, and without any ill effects being perceptible. This of course gives double the amount of training space, a greater number of varieties can be planted, thus ensuring a greater variety, and a much longer succession of fruit. Two shelves can be arranged to the full length of the house along the front, one at the base of the sashes and one immediately under the rafters, while two more can be arranged over the back path near the ventilators, and one on the back wall. These five shelves will be exceedingly useful for forcing Strawberries, or for the growth of any other plants needing an intermediate temperature. The preparation of the borders next demands attention, and as this is perhaps the most difficult work to perform, at least to amateurs and young gardeners with but little experience, I must take another opportunity to describe the method of preparing them, T. S. C.

Orchid Notes and Gleanings.

Halli (one a grand yellow-lipped variety, with eighteen flowers on a spike), O. Hallii, leucoglossum, O. Insleayi, O. roseum, G. Rossi majus and rubescens, O. Oerstedii, O. Pescatorei, and the beautiful O. Sanderianum, with its fine branched spike of sweetscented flowers, which are like a good odoratum, with blandum lip. The Oncidium cucullatum varieties, O. dasytyle, many scarlet Sophronitis, Masdevallia ignea, M. ignea rubescens, M. chimæra, and wellflowered Lycastes are also in excellent form.

Another span-roofed range, 43 feet by 13 feet, in two compartments, contains the Dendrobes; in the warmer half among them, well in bloom, being many good D. Wardianum, D. nobile, D, Fytchianum, fine forms of D. infundibulum, and D. Jamesianum, D. cretaceum, D. Findlayanum, D. fimbriatum, D. crassinode, D. luteolum, and D. chrysotoxum. In the cooler division, Vandas, Lælias, &c., are grown. In it Cymbidium Lowianum has four fine spikes of eighteen to twenty flowers each, and the Coelogyne cristata, Trentham and Chatsworth vars., are very fine, some of the flower-spikes of the latter bearing seven flowers. The Cattleya-house, 35 feet long, has some fine forms of C. Triana, C. Percivaliana, and C. Walkeriana in flower and a good show of buds, sheaths, and clean healthy foliage. The plant-houses and vineries at Lake House also contain various Orchids, including Dendrobium bigibbum and D. Bensoniæ. and nt one end of the Melon and Cucumber-house, over a tank of water, Dendrobium Dalhousianum thrives wonder. fully well, having growths on it about 6 feet high. Peristeria elata (the Dove Orchid) also grows and flowers well in the same. The Azalea-house is used for resting Dendrobes, &c. Everything which comes into Mr. T.

leanings. ft. Simcoe's (the gardener) hands seems to

ORCHIDS AT LAKE HOUSE, CHELTENHAM.

G. NEVILE WYATT, Esq., has a model collection here, which, while containing no failures, can boast of having obtained a great number of victories over subjects which are generally wont to be troublesome, and several of which are now in bloom. Among these may be noted well-flowered plants of the beautiful Oncidium Phalaenopsis, with flowers 2 inches in length and snow-white labellum over 1 inch acrosslovely and marvellous sprays of flowers for such tiny plants to bear. One of them has flowers with the petals and base of the labellum heavily blotched with violet, and another is simply dotted over with the same colour. It, as well as all the other of the O. cucullatum section, is a fine plant for a cold house. O. cucullatum giganteum, with its large rose-coloured lip, and other fine forms of it, are in bloom and doing equally well. Lælia harpophylla, too, is a blaze of orange-scarlet, some of the flowers being 3 inches across, and nine on a spike; they arrange very effectively with the beautiful Dendrobium Jamesianum and the magnificent varieties of the snowy waxlike Odontoglossum pulchellum majus. L. harpophylla receives special treatment at Lake House, and as under it weak plants grow into strong ones it may be well to note it. The plants are grown in a still shady corner of the north side of the intermediate-house, where they are liberally watered when growing, and not allowed to get dry when at rest. Want of water and too much sunlight is here supposed to be the commonest causes of failure with this plant. Odonto. glossum Edwardii, which is supposed to be a diffi. cult plant to grow, is producing its heavy sprays of violet-coloured sweet-scented flowers under similar treatment to that given to L. harpophylla, but in a cold house.

The principal range is divided into four compartments, the first being for East Indian plants, the second for those requiring intermediate temperature, such as some Cypripediums, Bolleas, Pescatoreas, Odontoglossum vexillarium, O. Roezlii, O. Phala nopsis, Cymbidiums, &c. ; and the third and fourth to cool Orchids, of which a very sound and clean lot are there established. Among the warm-house plants Aërides Leeanum, Phalaenopsis violacea, P. grandiflora, P. Schilleriana, and Angræcum sesquipedale are fine. In the next division the massive white blooms of Cymbidium eburneum, 5 inches across, are superb, and tell well in the contrast with Lælia harpophylla, Odontoglossum pulchellum majus, Cypripedium vil. losum aureum, C. Boxalli, C. Lowii, C. Sedeni, C. concolor, C. lævigatum, and C. insigne and barba. tum varieties. The cool-houses have fine spikes of Odontoglossum Alexandræ varieties, O. Andersonianum, O. bictoniense, O. cirrosum, O. gloriosum, O.

be so sensibly and skilfully treated that it at once settles comfortably down, and in due time gives its flowers in more than usual profusion as a reward for the care bestowed on it-as witness the grand specimen of Dendrobium Falconeri growing on a tree Fern stump which sometimes bears nearly 300 of its large showy flowers; the superbly bloomed D. superbiens, D. bigibbum, D. Fytchianum, D. Jamesianum, Epidendrum bicornutum, and many other things which certainly want good culture to grow and flower well.

ORCHIDS IN FLOWER AT THE YORK Nurseries. When walking through the houses at the Messrs. Backhouse's lately, I was particularly struck by the fine display of flowers of Cattleya Trianæ in the large Cattleya-house, which has been described in your columns on several occasions. The plants are grown, as has been aforetime stated, on the non-shading system. I am informed the percentage of bloomsheaths is larger than usual this year, thus proving that the late hot summer has not in any way injured the plants, as was feared by some orchidists who visit these nurseries in the summer season. It is perhaps only right to mention that the plants are much further from the glass than is general in smaller houses that do not let in such a flood of light and that an abun dance of air is given when the weather is at all favourable. There were about 800 flowers open when I was in, amongst them were some very fine varieties, one named "magnifica " being especially so, It is

a fine bold flower, with pinkish-rose petals and sepals, and a splendid magenta-purplish coloured lip with a handsomely frilled white margin, the flowers were fully 8 inches across, and the plant had nine flowers open in an 8-inch pot. Amongst other Cattleyas there were fine varieties of venosa, aureum, and citrina, the latter growing on small blocks hung up near the glass in an intermediate-house, and here Lælias of sorts were in good health. In the same house were also a fine batch of Cymbidium eburneum in bloom. In the Odontoglossum-house I noticed some very fine varieties of O. crispum and Pescatorea, and the plants generally were in a good healthy state. H. 7. C.

ORCHIDS IN FLOWER AT KINGSBURY HOUSE,
SHORTLANDS: E. HARRISON, Esq.

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In the

Bletia byacintha and Coelogyne cristata. cool house some fine varieties in great number of Odontoglossum Alexandræ, O. Rossi majus, some very good, deep, well-marked varieties; good O. gloriosum and O. triumphans, and a fine form of O. Andersonianum. There are a great many spikes showing, and a good display will be kept up for some time. This collection is doing remarkably well, and of late years has been very much increased. Great credit is due to Mr. King, the head gardener, for the practical manner he handles this collection. A. O.

FORESTRY.

NURSERY WORK FOR APRIL.

THE present month may be considered that in which the annual routine of forest work should be wound up for the year, but as, in all probability, there will be arrears in various departments, no effort should be spared to get these attended to before commencing the important operation of bark stripping. Nursery work will still demand great attention to finish the sowing of seeds, the transplanting of seedlings, and grafting of ornamental trees. As a guide to seed sowing we may state that about 1000 seedling plants to the square yard is considered ample nursery space; also that a sample of coniferous seeds of average quality under favourable circumstances produces about two-thirds of good germinating seeds. The number of seeds contained in I lb. each of the different kinds is about as follows:-Larch, 64,000; Scotch Fir, 69,000; Pinus austriaca, 24,000; P. Strobus, 31,000; P. Pinaster, I1,000.

PRUNING.

The pruning of all evergreens should be completed as soon as possible, and, as has been before stated under this heading, every precaution ought to be taken to pervent cattle, horses, or sheep, getting access to the prunings. Yew and Laurel or Rhododendron trimmings are especially dangerous, more particularly when in a half-withered state, and should be burned as the work of pruning proceeds. Remove Ivy from trees, walls, and other objectionable places, and where an annual trimming or pruning is given, the present will be found the best time to proceed with the work. Prune off dead and twisted branches, and paint the wound, after being carefully dressed with an adze or sharp knife, with tar or one of the several compositions specially prepared for the purpose. All rival leaders on coniferous and other trees should now be removed, as well as straggling side branches, so as to produce a well balanced head. In the nursery management of trees pruning is too often neglected, but this should not be so either as regards branch or (in the case of several hardwoods, notably the Oak) root.

FENCING.

The duties of the fencers will now be many and varied, such as the guarding of newly planted trees and shrubs against the attacks of hares and rabbits, staking or wiring of recent transplants, reparation of tree-guards, and attending to plantation fences generally. Rabbits and hares have a particular relish for trees when newly transplanted from the nursery border, and it requires the utmost vigilance on many estates to guard against their depredations. Surrounding the clumps or single trees with wire netting is certainly the most effectual preventive against injury by game, but where extensive planting is engaged in from year to year this method is both troublesome and expensive. In the case of shrubs, we find it a good plan to stick a few branches amongst them, which are painted with tar every week, the smell being a powerful agent in keeping these pests at bay. Tarring the stems of trees and shrubs is highly objectionable, not only as regards the injurious effect on the plant's system, but from a point of appearance as well.

HEDGING.

Hedges of various kinds may still be formed, but the Hawthorn, being of early growth, should not now be disturbed. Holly, where care is taken in the removal, may now be planted with success, as well as Yew, Box, Privet, Berberis of various kinds, the Mahonia, Laurustinus, and American Arbor-vitæ. For lawn or nursery purposes we find the Yew and Arbor. vitæ of great value, but the former should never be

planted within access of farm stock. Neglected or
overgrown fences may now be cut over with advantage,
but the sooner the better. Clean by hoeing or slightly
forking over the sides of existing fences, which will
materially assist in the producing of strong useful
hedges. A. D. Webster, Penrhyn Castle, North Wales.

The Flower Garden
Hayden.

ANNUALS.

THIS is the best time to sow seeds of all the many kinds of hardy and half-hardy annuals. Many of these are so beautiful, especially the many improved and new varieties, but far too numerous to mention in this notice; nor is it necessary, as they can be readily ascertained in seedsmen's catalogues. Of such things the tenderer kinds should be sown in pans or boxes, and placed in gentle heat, and when large enough they should be pricked off into other boxes or frames. The border kinds may be sown thinly in cold frames, and afterwards singled out, or they may also be pricked out. Many hardy kinds may be sown in the open flower-beds or borders at once.

SOME VARIETIES OF ANNUALS. Amongst the most beautiful of the hardy annuals are the Clarkias, C. pulchella, C. integripetala, and C. marginata. These either sown now and carefully pricked off, or sown where they are to stand, make fine telling plants. Thus grown they look far better than when dotted all over the herbaceous and shrubbery borders in little patches, where the effect is frittered away by endless and unmeaning repetition. Salpiglossis variabilis, in many fine varieties, is well worth growing. They are rather tall, and the markings of the trumpet-shaped blooms_make them very beautiful additions to any garden. Scabiosa in many varieties should not be forgotten; these are good also for late autumn and winter in pots in the greenhouse. Verbena hybrida make pretty small beds, where masses of one colour are not required, the plants being very floriferous, possessing a more robust constitution than those from cuttings. Acroclinium album, Alonzoa Warscewiczii, the several varieties of Anagallis, of charming blue, lilac, and scarlet, are useful for rock. work and small beds; Browallia elata, either for pots or groups; Eucharidium grandiflorum, a miniature Clarkia, growing about 9 inches high, dark red, useful for margins and small beds; Cosmidium Burridgeanum, like brown velvet, with a golden edge Eschscholtzia, in white, yellow, and rose, are useful things for beds and borders; Tagetes patula nana, T. lucida, T. signata pumila, the latter very floriferous, and well adapted for margins and small beds.

GENERAL WORK.

The weather has been most favourable for completing all necessary work in this department; if any still remains to be done no time should be lost in completing it. Shrub pruning, turf laying, the sowing of grass seeds, edging and gravelling the walks, should now be finished, mowing being now at hand, which will leave but little time for the execution of such without neglecting the usual routine work. Nothing tends to enhance the beauty of a garden more than well kept lawns and walks. All recently planted trees and shrubs should be carefully looked to, and if loosened by the late gales they should be securely staked and fastened, and if not already mulched this should be done at once. W. Smythe, The Gardens, Basing Park, Alton.

Plants and
and their Cultu

BORONIA megastigma will now be opening its deliciously scented flowers. Do not let this plant be exposed, particularly at this period, to currents of cold air. As soon as it is past its flowering stage and has been slightly rested it should be pruned similarly to Epacris. A little later on Aotus gracillimus will need the like treatment. As soon as all of these plants that we have advised to be cut back are fairly broken into fresh growth the potting of such as need it should be seen to at once. Sound fibrous peat and silver sand should form the chief materials in the mixture used for them, and firm potting must always be practised. I always keep the plants

at this season of the year in a late vinery, which will
now soon be closed, the treatment given to the Vines
suiting these plants for the next few weeks. Later
on, when the temperature has become higher, they
must be removed, to prevent weak growth.

RETARDING GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

In the

It will often happen about this season of the year
that a large quantity of flowering plants will advance
more rapidly than is desirable, causing for a while an
over-abundance of flower. In order to obviate this,
some of the hardier plants should be retarded by as
cool a course of culture as is safe in each respective
case. Indian Azaleas will be secure in any place
where the frost can be just excluded. A late batch of
these is always welcome at the end of May and the
early part of June. A north house or cold pits having
the same aspect are useful for such purposes.
latter a late batch of Cinerarias could be kept back,
along with various other things. Having an extra
good number of Lachenalia tricolor this season I
have transferred a portion to a cold frame, finding
this beautiful bulbous plant very durable as well as
being suitable for our conservatory. The latest of the
Dutch bulbs, Spiræa (Hoteia) japonica, Dielytra
spectabilis, and other early spring blooming plants
should likewise be kept in check as much as possible,
as a late batch is frequently the most useful. It is
not safe, however, to retard Deutzia gracilis, as this
useful early shrub does not develope such fine spikes
of flower if kept too cool. Azalea mollis, and the
late flowering Rhododendrons can always be kept in
check with safety, and a few pot Roses are also useful
when allowed to bloom just before those of outdoors.

SOFT-WOODED GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

Many of these will now need extra attention, the Pelargoniums in various stages particularly so. These should have all the light possible and be kept near the glass, but this cannot always be done, and in such cases it is therefore best to keep them on the shelves as long as they do not touch the glass. When they are seen to be knoting for flower a liberal amount of manure water will be of much service. Fuchsias, if not already started into growth and repotted, should be seen to at once. Aphides will now become more troublesome among the greenhouse stock; a sharp watch need be kept against their increase. It will be found far better for the plants to give occasional doses than to leave this work till the enormous increase of the pests compels strong fumigation, &c., to be resorted to for their destruction. James Hudson, Gunnersbury House Gardens.

THE VINERY.

THE BORDERS IN THE EARLY HOUSES. THE Grapes in early started vineries will now be near the time when they will take the final growth; before this proceeds it is very important to be well assured that the inside borders are in a proper state, and especially as regards moisture; therefore without unnecessarily disturbing many roots this should be ascertained. As Vines at this period need even more nourishment and support than at almost any other time, unless this matter is duly attended to it cannot reasonably be expected that they will perfect the fruit in the way desired-in fact, it is a customary practice to give liberal supplies of much diluted guano or other stimulants in water in a tepid state at this period every year, and no harm can possibly ensue if the drainage of the border is perfect and permits the excess to pass away freely. By this time the surfacedressing of manure ought to be well permeated with the feeding roots; if this is so, the material should be moderately watered as often as necessary, to prevent it becoming at all dry.

VENTILATION.

The state of the weather will, at this season, often render a considerable amount of fire-heat indispensable -so much so that at certain times the heat at night would be excessively high, which should be avoided as far as possible during the time the Grapes are colouring, and counteracted by means of a chink of air being left on throughout the night when the

thermometer will not fall below 60° at daybreak, when the ventilators should be closed until such time as the temperature regains 70°; at this point it should be put on again, and be gradually increased as the temperature rises to 85° or 90°. At this point a little air should be admitted at the front ventilators; as the heat declines the quantity of air should be reduced in like manner, and the house be closed at 80°, when all suitable sarfaces in it should be sprinkled over, but not in a way to overcharge the atmosphere with moisture.

SUCCESSION-HOUSES.

In these the Vines, aided by solar heat carefully economised, will push forth leaves and make growth rapidly. In order to secure a sturdy habit with compact branches the houses should be freely ventilated. We strive to keep a little air on constantly at the apex of these houses, and do so unless the thermometer goes below 55°, when it is better to close for a time, and at 65° have all the ventilators opened. These consist of openings in front and at the top of about 18 inches square, which are gradually shut as the day declines, and the front ones entirely closed in the evening at about 6 o'clock. As soon as the Vines come into flower we keep the houses considerably warmer, and later apply the same treatment as recom⚫ mended for early vineries, only giving more air considerably at all times when it can be done without ill effects. Attend regularly to stopping the shoots before they become strong. We pinch these at the second leaf above the lowest bunch, and remove the laterals entirely below it, and stop those above at the first or second leaf according to the vigour of the foliage, and to fill up any vacant space over the trellis. These, as well as the terminal shoots, are allowed to extend further where space admits. Give timely attention to thinning, which should be begun at the earliest moment possible in order to keep the matter well in hand, and to promote a sturdy growth in the foot-stalks of the berries. Moderately sprinkle over the borders about twice every day, and see that those inside borders do not want for water. G. T. Miles, Wycombe Abbey.

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ASPARAGUS PLANTING.

THE roots will soon be commencing growth, which should determine the time of transplanting and form. ing new beds. When moving them spread the roots out well in their new position before placing on them any soil, which should be well worked amongst them with the hand, making it quite firm immediately around each plant as it is placed in its new position, then cover the roots to a depth of 3 or 4 inches. A good mulch of rotten manure should be given before the shoots come through the soil. Finely crushed bones is a capital manuring, and should always be applied above the roots as a top-dressing.

BEETROOT.

A few rows may now be sown for early autumn use, but the main crop to supply roots for use throughout the ensuing winter and spring should not be sown till the first or second week in May. To obtain proper sized roots for salad purposes a somewhat poor piece of ground is best, which should receive a dressing of soot and salt, applied a short time before the seed is sown. It is difficult during rainy seasons, even after late sowing, to prevent the roots getting too large. Large coarse roots, usually the result of early sowing, are generally light in colour and stringy.

FRENCH BEANS.

A sowing should be made about the middle of this month, in a sunny position. Allow plenty of space between the rows, to secure room for moving between them when fully grown to gather the crop. One yard is none too much for varieties such as Canadian Wonder, A larger sowing should be made at the end of the month. G. H. Richards, Somerley Gardens, Kingwood.

THE TRUMPET OF JUDGMENT. - According to the Moniteur d'Horticulture, Datura arborea is called in France, "Trompette du jugement dernier," in allusion to its large white flowers. Of the two, we prefer the Latin name.

APPOINTMENTS FOR THE ENSUING WEEK.

- WEDNESDAY, April 82

THURSDAY, April 9

FRIDAY, April 10 SATURDAY, April 11

THE

Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society's
Spring Show (two days).
Sale of Hardy Plants and Bulbs, at Stevens'
Rooms.

Sale of Carnations, Picotees, Roses, &c., at
the City Auction Rooms 38 and 30, Grace-
church Street, E.C., by Protheroe &
Morris.
Sale of Imported Orchids, at Stevens'
Rooms.

Sale of Valuable Imported Orchids, at
Protheroe & Morris' Rooms.
General Meeting of the Royal Botanic So-
ciety, at 3.45 P.M.

HE schedules of prizes offered by the ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY at the series of exhibitions of plants, flowers, fruits, and vegetables, arranged to be held in the great Conservatory at South Kensington during the present year, have been distributed, and doubtless have been scanned with no inconsiderable interest in many a gardener's home. That many other societies hold much larger exhibitions is indisputable, but no other society holds at least so many shows in the season, nor do any other shows create so much national interest, or secure higher average quality in the exhibits.

Apart from the fact that these shows are held in connection with the Royal Horticultural Society, they derive special interest and prestige from the place in which they are held, and their association with those remarkable and truly international exhibitions now being held annually at South Kensington, and which are visited by such numbers of the people. Thus it happens that the garden produce exhibited in competition or otherwise at South Kensington during the summer months is seen by such myriads of visitors that even in that respect alone horticulture should derive stimulus and benefit from the Royal Horticultural Society's exhibitions.

Last year, without doubt, the series of exhibitions held in the conservatory under the control of the Council, but really through the liberality of the Healtheries' Committee-of which that excellent amateur gardener, the Duke of BUCKINGHAM, was chairman-presented on the part of South Kensington, a new departure, the which, it is satisfactory to find, is this year to be well maintained. In some respects the shows of the present year will prove to the gardener more interesting, because they are not so entirely as last year laid in familiar lines. Then, to be en rapport with the Healtheries, it was largely essential that the horticultural products should be in the form of food; hence, many of the shows displayed monotony in the exhibits.

This year more variety is introduced, as, for instance, one show-that of June 9, is entirely devoted to those aristocratic exotic flowers, Orchids ; and no doubt the liberal prizes offered will be instrumental in bringing together some beauti. ful collections. Some of our readers, perchance, will remark with surprise that the anticipated Orchid Conference of two days' duration is to be held a month earlier, and not on the date of the Orchid show, but there may be good reasons for such an arrangement-amongst others, perhaps, the instructive fact that the Conference will doubtless create an attractive exhibition without much pecuniary aid.

The shows of the Auricula and Carnation Societies come in as in previous years, and to the latter is added a number of attractive prizes for Begonias and other allied plants, so that these now exceedingly popular summer flowers may then be looked for in fine form. We have yet to see what Begonias can produce in the way of specimen plants, and hope then to have the desire to some extent gratified. The National Rose Society also holds its London show again at South Kensington this year, so that the queen of flowers will reign supreme in the conservatory for one day at least. A cottagers' show is also fixed for August 25, and

remembering the remarkable success which attended last year's display of such garden produce, can but rejoice the cottagers of the country are to have another chance. Probably some who saw last year's show thought that if this is the product of cottage gardens our professional growers must look to their laurels. It is to be hoped that in all cases the exhibitors really were what they professed to be, and that their produce was genuinely home-grown.

To gardeners generally, however, there can be little doubt that chief interest will centre round the three last shows of the schedule, and specially to the one of September 8 and 9, which is devoted to Grapes and Dahlias. Curiously enough—and the departure is one to rejoice over in this case-there are no collections of Grapes, therefore there are no special gifts for the few big growers. There are no less than twenty-six classes for named kinds of Grapes, and one other for "any other variety" after the twenty-six kinds have been staged. Well, some other kind may be produced, it is true, but we fancy the compilers of the schedule were, in arranging this latter class, indulging in a quiet chuckle anticipatory of the "other varieties" proving to be one or other of those previously scheduled. Perhaps exception will be taken to thus giving, as it were, tacit encouragement to so many kinds of Grapes, not a few of which are of no great merit. It is obvious, however, that the classes are intended to have an educational result, and it is hoped may lead to much needful revision in Grape nomenclature. In some classes, no doubt, the competition will be large, in others indifferent. According to the list of prizes good classes and bad ones are to fare alike, but it is hoped that, should some fail to fill well, the savings will be bestowed in the form of extra prizes where the competition is large and good.

The show of October 13 and 14 is devoted to Apples and Pears, and, having regard to the present fruit prospects, a really grand display of these serviceable fruits may be looked for. That there are fifteen single dish classes in each section of fruits shows that the competition will be varied, and produced from a wide

area.

The other October show, devoted chiefly to vegetables, is to be associated with a Potato Conference, of which more perhaps is expected than will be realised. In any case this show of edible garden produce will fitly close the season, and will doubtless not be the least popular one.

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In order to ensure uniformity and accuracy, it is requested that the plants exhibited bear the labels which have been specially prepared for this Conference, and with which, through the kindness of Mr. Pollett, the Society is prepared to provide the exhibitors. Exhibitors are requested to apply for these at the Society's office on or before May 1, giving the exact name of the plants which they intend to exhibit [on a form to be had on application to the Secretary].

Class VIII.

Materials, such as sphagnum and other mosses, peat and other soils, baskets, rafts, pots, pans, labels, &c., used in the cultivation of Orchids.

THE CONFERence.

Programme of the Conference, Wednesday, May 13, at 10.30 A.M. :—

Introductory remarks by the President.

1. Communication from Professor Reichenbach. 2. Discussion on the Hybridisation of Orchids. Open. ing paper by Mr. Harry Veitch, F.L.S.

3. Discussion on the Cultivation of Orchids. Opening paper by J. O'Brien.

4. Discussion on the Nomenclature of Orchids. N.B.-Two Veitch Memorial Medals will be awarded at the Conference on the recommendation of the committee.

The following gentlemen are members of the Orchid Conference committee :

Colonel Beddome, Hon. and Rev. J. T. Boscawen, J. C. Bowring, W. E. Brymer, M.P., The Right Hon. J. Chamberlain, M.P., John Day, W. T. Thiselton Dyer, F.R.S., Sir Nathaniel De Rothschild, Bart., M.P., Professor Michael Foster, F.R.S., Holbrook Gaskell, George Hardy, E. Harvey, J. S. Hirst, Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., M.P., William Lee (of Downside), Major F. Mason, Rev. John B. Norman, Alexander Paterson, M.D., Frederick A. Philbrick, Q.C., Baron Schröder, W. Thompson.

THE DINNER.

The Conference Committee have arranged for a dinner in connection with the Conference, to take place at the "Albion," Aldersgate Street, on Tuesday, May 12, at 6.30 for 7 o'clock precisely. Gentlemen wishing to be present are requested to send their names to W. LEE, Esq., Downside, Leatherhead, on or before Friday, May 8.

THE DAFFODIL COMMITTEE.-In order that the Daffodil Committee, at its meeting at the Royal Horticultural Society, on Tuesday, April 14, may have an opportunity of examining as many new forms of Daffodil as possible, it is hoped that amateurs and others will not be frightened by the larger collections of the growers, but will send up any forms which they think to be new, even if they are able to send one form only. Mr. BARRON will take care that all such sendings are duly attended to.

THE HAARLEM BULB SHOW.-We have received the following letter from Messrs. BYVOET:— "We felt much surprised at reading the report of the Quinquennial Exhibition at Haarlem, in No. 587 of the Gardeners' Chronicle, p. 414, and fully trusting to your impartiality in such matters, we take the liberty of requesting you to insert the following rectification in the next number of your paper.

"Not Messrs. J. H. KERSTEN & Co. were the principal prize-takers, but Messrs. GEBROEDERS BYVOET. "The highest prize was not awarded for class No. I of the schedule, but for class No. 9, being a Gold Medal and 50 fl.; and the Hyacinthis wherewith GEBROEDERS BYVOET got the 1st prize in this class were universally pronounced the best of the entire exhibition.

Excepting one class, in which Messrs. KERSTEN were 1st, Messrs. BYVOET secured the 1st prizes (seven Gold Medals) in all the principal classes for Hyacinths, and obtained the Gold Champion Medal given by the 'Gartenbau-Verein,' at Hietzing, near Vienna, to the highest prize-taker for Hyacinths at this exhibition.

"GEBROEDERS BYVOET."

We regret the occurrence of the errors in question, which are attributable to our scanty knowledge of the Dutch language. We trust that on another occasion an abstract of the schedule and prize list be given in French or English.

PEARS FROM THE CAPE.-This fruit is being consigned to our markets now, some of it in fairly good condition, so that the seasons for Pears will probably overlap each other, or nearly so. We are indebted to Mr. WEBBER, of Covent Garden, for this information, that gentleman having brought for our inspection fruits of Beurré Superfin and Glou Mor.

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