descending into the valley in large numbers, and completely cut off their retreat with their booty. The valley of the Sahwatch, so rich in pasturage, so well adapted to tillage, and so abundantly watered and timbered, appears to offer the best position for a fort, and it would be as accessible from Taos as the post on the Utah, although the distance would of course be greater. The cavalry at Fort Massachusetts numbered seventy-five men, of whom forty-five were mounted. Though their horses. were excellently groomed and stabled, and kept in high condition on corn, at six dollars a bushel, they would soon break down on a march in pursuit of Indians mounted on horses fed on grass, and accustomed to gallop at half speed up or down the steepest hills. Corn-fed animals lose their strength when they are put on grass, and do not soon get accustomed to the change of diet. Of this fact the officers at the fort were perfectly sensible, and regretted that they were not better prepared for any sudden emergency. The weather during our stay at the fort was cool and bracing; wind generally from the southwest, with frequent showers of rain. Mr. Beale returned from the southern country late in the afternoon of this day, and brought with him a guide, and a Mexican arriero (muleteer); they were cousins, and both named Felipe Archilete. Jesus Garcia was discharged here, and Patrick Dolan, a soldier who had served out his time, hired in his place. Our party now numbered fourteen. The guide, Felipe Archilete, or "Peg-Leg," for it was by this sobriquet that he was commonly known to Americans, deserves particular mention. He had spent the greater part of his life trading and trapping in the Indian country, and his accurate knowledge of the region between the Arkansas and Sevier River in Utah Territory, as well as his acquaintance with the Utah tongue, promised to render him of great service to us in the absence of Mr. Leroux. A few years ago, in a skirmish with the Utahs, he was wounded in the left ankle with a rifle ball, which completely crippled his foot, and compelled him to use at times a wooden leg, which he carried suspended to his waist. Notwithstanding his lameness, he was one of the most active men of the party, and was always the foremost in times of difficulty and danger. During Mr. Beale's absence, I replenished our provisions from the sutler's store, and had a small supply of biscuit baked; a bullock which I purchased from the quartermaster, was cut up and jerked by the Delaware, and the mules were reshod, and a supply of spare shoes and nails obtained. They were completely rested, and in even better condition than when we started from Westport; after a general overhauling of the camp equipage by the men, everything was put in order for resuming our journey, as soon as Mr. Beale should return. June 15. Bidding adieu to our kind friends at the fort, we resumed our journey at noon, and travelled down Utah Creek south-southwest, until it debouched in the valley of San Luis, when we altered our course to west by north. In six miles from Fort Massachusetts, we crossed the trail of Roubideau's wagons from the upper Arkansas settlements; they entered through Roubideau's Pass in the Sierra Mojada. After crossing it, our route led us over a level plain covered with artemisia, cacti, and patches of the nutritious grama. A ride of twenty-five miles brought us at dark to a slough of the Rio del Norte, where we encamped. Day's march, 25 miles; total distance from Westport, 718 miles. June 16. Our animals were inclined to stray back to the fort, but by constant watchfulness during the night they were prevented from wandering too far from camp. We never hobbled nor picketed our mules, unless compelled to do so by circumstances, for it was noticed that when thus confined they did not eat as heartily as when allowed to range freely in search of the grass they preferred. It was the duty of the men on guard to prevent their straying, and this added much to our fatigue. Having ascertained that our supply of lead was insufficient, Mr. Rogers and myself started at 4 A. M. to return to Fort Massachusetts to procure more. We crossed a spur of the mountains in a direct line to the fort, instead of going round by their base, thereby saving four or five miles of the distance. The trail was much obstructed by trees and brush; but we reached the fort at an early hour, and also avoided a very troublesome marsh, where some of our mules were mired the day before. At the fort, we engaged Juan Lente as arriero (muleteer), and bought a mule for him. On returning to our last camping place, Lieut. Johnson gave us an escort of two dragoons. The weather was cool and pleasant in the morning, but warm in the afternoon. Having started from the fort at 2 P. M. we did not reach the slough on the Del Norte until 8 P. M. The camp had left in the morning, and had crossed the bottom lands of the Del Norte, eighteen miles in breadth; this crossing is at times difficult and dangerous on account of the numerous sloughs and marshes, which can be altogether avoided, however, by a circuit of a few miles. Midway to the river they fell in with some Utah Indians, hunting wild horses; the Indians were the first to discover our party, and the foremost stood upright on his horse, in order to obtain a better view; he counted their number, and signalized his discovery with his gun to his comrades, who thereupon approached at full speed. They had their squaws with them and some children, all mounted on good horses, and were quite friendly. In the course of the day they lassoed a mustang, but strangled him in their eagerness to secure their prize. 18 miles; 736 miles. June 17. Mr. Rogers and myself started at 3 A. M., and overtook our party at 8.30 A. M., as they were preparing to raise camp. We proceeded immediately on our journey, and coasting up the left bank of the Del Norte about ten miles, left it where it made a bend to the westward, directing our course north by west to the Sahwatch valley, the commencement of the Coochatope Pass. Before leaving the Del Norte, the Indians were asked whether there was water in the direction in which we were going; for the commencement of the Sahwatch valley was about thirty miles distant. They replied that we should find water and grass by going around by the foot of the mountains, but none by going direct. The circuitous route they recommended would have occupied us two days, whilst we hoped to accomplish the distance direct before night. Our red friends were unwilling to venture with us, and bade us farewell; we parted with them on friendly terms; they had spent the night in our camp, shared our supper and breakfast, and smoked our pipes. The plain was as level as the sea to the foot of the mountains, which inclose San Luis valley. A low spur of hills to the northward, indicated the entrance to the valley of the Sah watch. In fourteen miles from the point where we left the river, we crossed a fine brook of clear and cool water-the Rio de la Garita, which rises in the Sahwatch mountains, and, flowing east, discharges itself into a large lagoon at the base of the Sierra Mojada, in the northern part of the valley of San Luis. Its banks were swampy, and, although later in the season this inconvenience probably does not exist, wagons would do well to cross it nearer to the mountains on the left. Our course was in the face of a breeze which raised clouds of dust wherever the soil was loosened by our animals' feet, and those riding in the rear suffered much inconvenience from it. In ten miles from the Rio Garita, we came to an abundant spring, surrounded by good grass, where we rested but a moment to drink, though we had travelled steadily since morning without eating. Mr. Beale was anxious to reach the entrance of the Sahwatch valley before evening, and to regain some of the time which had been unavoidably lost at Fort Massachusetts. At the spring we found a trail leading to the Sahwatch valley, and as soon as our mules struck it they stepped out with fresh spirit. The valley of San Luis, to the commencement of the Sahwatch is singularly level, the smooth ground seeming only to have the natural curve of the earth. The only vegetation, excepting in the vicinity of water, was artemisia, cactus, and occasionally grama grass. The valley of the Sahwatch has two entrances from that of San Luis. The one which we selected, on account of its being the nearest, is called by the Spaniards El Rincon del Sahwatch (the corner of the Sahwatch), as it forms a cut-off into Sahwatch valley proper. The main entrance is a few miles farther on. We went three miles up the Rincon, and encamped at sunset at a spring of excellent water, where our mules found fine pasturage. Mr. Rogers and myself rode sixty-eight miles this day, and fifty the day before; which I mention to show the facility of travelling in this region. Day's march, 50 miles; whole distance, 786 miles. June 18. Mosquitos allowed us little rest. As our animals had had rather a long march the day before, camp was not raised until 8 A. M. For two and a half miles our course was west by north; we then turned to the northward over some steep hills, and, upon reaching their summit, obtained a |