out stopping, travelled through the Carnero Pass to Sahwatch valley, near which we encamped before sunset. Day's travel, 49 miles; distance from Taos, 191.

July 15. Travelled steadily all day, with the exception of a short rest at noon, and encamped at night on a small rill running into the Jaroso (Willow Creek). Day's travel, 43 miles; from Taos, 234 miles.

July 16. We started at dawn, crossed the Rio de la Laguna without unpacking, as its waters had fallen, and at 2 P. M. I met Harry Young, whom Mr. Beale had sent to guide us to his camp on the Savoya Creek, to which he had moved during my absence. We found Mr. Beale and his small party all well, and anxiously expecting us. Their camp was surrounded by a considerable number of Utahs, some of whom I recognized as the same we had met near the Sahwatch, on the 2d of July.

Soon after we got into camp, Mr. Beale dispatched Wagner and Galliego to Grand River with the bull-hides, directing them to make a boat should they fail in finding a ford; and a little later we proceeded to the Nawaquasitch, so as to make an early start on the morrow and reach Grand River before night. Day's travel, 42 miles; distance from Taos, 276 miles.

MR. BEALE'S SEPARATE JOURNAL DURING MY VOYAGE TO
TAOS AND BACK.

Mr. Beale commences his journal on the day that we parted; with the reasons for sending back, and the names of those who went, and of those who remained with him.

July 1, 1853. Rogers, Riggs, Cosgrove, George, Dolan, Juan, and Gregorio left us to return to the settlements, and go thence by Salt Lake to California. This was on account of one of our party, whom I did not think could stand the farther hardships of the journey. Harris Heap and Felipe Archilete went in also to show them the nearest road, and to guide them to Taos, and get supplies. Remained in camp to await the return of Heap, with provisions, &c. Remained with me the Delaware (Dick Brown), Felipe Archilete, Jr., Harry Young, and Wagner. Nothing to eat in camp; sent the Delaware out to hunt, and we commenced a house. About nine, Dick re

turned with a buck; finished the house; sick with dysentery. We find the venison good, it being the first meat or food of any kind, except cornmeal and water, we have had for a week.

July 2. Weather pleasant; mosquitos abundant, but not troublesome; washed the two dirty shirts which composed my wardrobe. No signs of Indians, and begin to hope we shall not be troubled with them. Nevertheless, keep the fright medicine* at hand, and the guns ready. Grass abundant and good, animals thriving; the Delaware killed an elk; dried some meat; still sick.

July 3. Employed the day in drying the meat killed yesterday. Weather very hot; but for the sunshine one would suppose it to be snowing, the air being filled with light fleeces like snow-flakes from the cottonwood. The creek is falling, but slowly. Time drags very heavily; three days gone, however, and nine remain; twelve days being the time allotted to go and return from Taos.

July 4. Celebrated the day by eating our last two cups of pinole; felt highly excited by it. Henceforth we go it on tobacco and dried meat. The Delaware killed a doe, tolerably fat; dried the meat; still sick; bathed in creek; found the water excessively cold, but felt much refreshed and better after the bath, besides having killed an hour by it—a very important item.

July 5. To-day we killed only a rabbit. The day has been somewhat cool, though the evening is dry and sultry, and the mosquitos much more troublesome than usual. Took a bath, which seems to give me relief from my malady, which, thank God, is no worse. We hope that our men have reached Taos this evening.

July 6. To-day has been cloudy, with rain in the mountains. all around us, though but a few scattering drops have reached the valley. We all complain this evening of great weakness and entire lack of energy, with dizziness in the head, and do not know from what cause it proceeds. The bath in the creek has not had its usual invigorating effect; mosquitos very troublesome; made a little soup in a tin box and found it tolerable.

* Our medicine chest had been intended for a lady's use, and contained a bottle of anodyne drops, labelled with the following directions: "Three drops, to allay palpitations of the heart occasioned by fright."

July 7. For the last two days we have killed nothing. This evening we had quite a shower of rain; started to take a long walk, but broke down very soon, being too weak to go far. I find my sickness worse to-day, but it is the least of my anxieties. Would to God I had none other! Took the usual evening bath in the creek, which has slightly fallen during the day, and the water not quite so cold, which encourages me to hope that the supply of snow in the mountains is nearly exhausted.

July 8. This morning our anxieties from Indians have commenced. At ten o'clock three of them rode into camp, and shortly afterwards some dozen more.

July 9. Yesterday, after the Indians arrived, I gave them what little tobacco we could spare and some of our small stock of dried elk meat. After eating and smoking for awhile they insisted on my accompanying them to their camp, which was some ten miles off. I explained to them as well as I could who I was.

Knowing that it is best always to act boldly with Indians, as if you felt no fear whatever, I armed myself and started with them. Our road for a mile or two led over a barren plain, thickly covered with grease wood, but we soon struck the base of the mountain, where the firm rich mountain grass swept our saddle-girths as we cantered over it. We crossed a considerable mountain covered with timber and grass, and near the summit of which was quite a cluster of small, but very clear and apparently deep lakes. They were not more than an acre or two in size, and some not even that, but surrounded by luxu riant grass, and perched away up on the mountain, with fine timber quite near them. It was the most beautiful scenery in the world; it formed quite a hunter's paradise, for deer and elk bounded off from us as we approached, and then stood within rifle-shot, looking back in astonishment. A few hours' ride brought us to the Indian camp; and I wish here I could describe the beauty of the charming valley in which they lived. It was small, probably not more than five miles wide by fifteen long, but surrounded on all sides by the boldest mountains, covered to their summits with alternate patches of timber and grass, giving it the appearance of having been regularly laid off in small farms. Through the centre a fine bold stream, probably three feet deep by forty wide, watered the meadow land, and

gave the last touch which the valley required to make it the most beautiful I had ever seen. Hundreds of horses and goats were feeding on the meadows and hill-sides, and the Indian lodges, with the women and children standing in front of them to look at the approaching stranger, strongly reminded me of the old patriarchal times, when flocks and herds made the wealth and happiness of the people, and a tent was as good as a palace. I was conducted to the lodge of the chief, an old and infirm man, who welcomed me kindly, and told me his young men had told him I had given of my small store to them, and to "sit in peace."

I brought out my pipe, filled it, and we smoked together. In about fifteen minutes a squaw brought in two large wooden platters, containing some very fat deer meat and some boiled corn, to which I did ample justice. After this followed a dish. which one must have been two weeks without bread to have appreciated as I did. Never, at the tables of the wealthiest in Washington, did I find a dish which appeared to me so perfectly without a parallel. It was some cornmeal boiled in goats' milk, with a little elk fat. I think I certainly ate near half a peck of this delicious atole, and then stopped, not because I had enough, but because I had scraped the dish dry with my fingers, and licked them as long as the smallest particle remained, which is "manners" among Indians, and also among Arabs. Eat all they give you, or get somebody to do it for you, is to honor the hospitality you receive. To leave any is a slight. I needed not the rule to make me eat all.

After this we smoked again, and when about to start I found a large bag of dried meat and a peck of corn put up for me to take to my people.

Bidding a friendly good-by to my hosts, and dividing among them about a pound of tobacco and two handkerchiefs, and giving the old chief the battered remains of a small leaden picayune looking-glass, I mounted my mule to return. The sun was just setting when I started, and before reaching the summit of the mountain it was quite dark. As there was no road, and the creeks very dark in the bottoms, I had a most toilsome time of it. At one creek, which I reached after very great dif ficulty in getting through the thick and almost impenetrable undergrowth, it was so dark that I could see nothing; but,

trusting to luck, I jumped my mule off the bank and brought up in water nearly covering my saddle. Getting in was bad enough, but coming out was worse; for, finding the banks high on the other side, I was obliged to follow down the stream for half a mile or more, not knowing when I should be swimming, until I succeeded with great difficulty in getting out through the tangled brushwood on the opposite side. I arrived at camp late at night, and found my men very anxiously awaiting my return, having almost concluded to give me up, and to think I had lost my "hair." A little rain.

July 11. To-day I raised camp, and went over to the valley of the Savoya, near my Indian neighbors. The more I see of this valley the more I am delighted with it. I cannot say how it may be in winter, but at this time it is certainly the most beautiful valley, and the richest in grass, wood, soil, and water, I have ever seen. The Delaware brought into camp last evening a small deer, alive, which he had caught in the mountains. It was a beautiful creature, but escaped in the night.

July 12. Went out this morning with the Indians to hunt. They lent me a fine horse; but God forbid that I should ever hunt with such Indians again! I thought I had seen something of rough riding before; but all my experience faded before that of the feats of to-day. Some places which we ascended and descended it seemed to me that even a wild-cat could hardly have passed over; and yet their active and thoroughly well-trained horses took them as part of the sport, and never made a misstep or blunder during the entire day. We killed three antelopes and a young deer. Yesterday an Indian, while sitting at our camp, broke the mainspring of his rifle lock. His distress was beyond anything within the power of description. To him it was everything. The "corn, wine, and oil" of his family depended on it, and he sat for an hour looking upon the wreck of his fortune in perfect despair. He appeared so much cast down by it that at last I went into our lodge and brought my rifle, which I gave him to replace the broken one. At first he could not realize it, but as the truth gradually broke upon him, his joy became so great that he could scarce control himself; and when he returned that night he was the happiest man I have seen for many a day.

These Indians are all well armed and mounted, and the very