The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850University of California Press, 2002/05/21 - 313 ページ In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together. Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits. |
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... display and high social status. Manly thrift now displayed elite status. Along with the three-piece suit, the view that elaborate clothing consumption is incompatible with masculinity is still a part of modern culture. In the Anglo ...
... display and high social status. Manly thrift now displayed elite status. Along with the three-piece suit, the view that elaborate clothing consumption is incompatible with masculinity is still a part of modern culture. In the Anglo ...
4 ページ
... display as the privilege of nobility to one that rejected fashion as the concern of debauched up- starts; from a world that reserved fine fabrics for honorable aristocrats to one that abandoned them to those considered effeminate fops ...
... display as the privilege of nobility to one that rejected fashion as the concern of debauched up- starts; from a world that reserved fine fabrics for honorable aristocrats to one that abandoned them to those considered effeminate fops ...
5 ページ
... display that disdained display, a fashion that denied its fashionableness. It gave birth to a new semiotic regime, a modern signifying system that declared fashion itself to be insignificant, with all the instability that this implied ...
... display that disdained display, a fashion that denied its fashionableness. It gave birth to a new semiotic regime, a modern signifying system that declared fashion itself to be insignificant, with all the instability that this implied ...
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... display was not merely an inert political symbol—some static after- thought of power that manifested preformulated ideologies. Rather, clothing display was a form of power, enacting the articulation, negoti- ation, and personalization ...
... display was not merely an inert political symbol—some static after- thought of power that manifested preformulated ideologies. Rather, clothing display was a form of power, enacting the articulation, negoti- ation, and personalization ...
8 ページ
... display, and manners, including cloth- ing.20 We need to look at the intersection of ideals of masculinity and English political culture, to determine not only the cultural underpin- nings of political regimes, but the political nature ...
... display, and manners, including cloth- ing.20 We need to look at the intersection of ideals of masculinity and English political culture, to determine not only the cultural underpin- nings of political regimes, but the political nature ...
目次
1 | |
2 The Old Sartorial Regime 15501688 | 17 |
3 The SeventeenthCentury Fashion Crisis | 51 |
4 The ThreePiece Suit | 77 |
5 Masculinity in the Age of Chivalry 16881832 | 91 |
6 The Making of the SelfMade Man 17501850 | 133 |
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