The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850University of California Press, 2002/05/21 - 313 ページ In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together. Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits. |
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... Vest , 1666 Samuel Sturmy , The Mariner's Magazine , 1669 10. John Ogilby , Brittania , 1675 II . David Loggan , Cantabrigia Illustrata , 1676 12 . The Courtier's Calling , 1675 13. Studio of Joshua Reynolds , Edmund Burke , 1771 14 ...
... Vest , 1666 Samuel Sturmy , The Mariner's Magazine , 1669 10. John Ogilby , Brittania , 1675 II . David Loggan , Cantabrigia Illustrata , 1676 12 . The Courtier's Calling , 1675 13. Studio of Joshua Reynolds , Edmund Burke , 1771 14 ...
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... vest, I know not well how; but it is to teach the nobility thrift, and will do good."1 Donned with a mixture of solemnity and fanfare, the vest marked a new beginning to Englishmen's fashion, ending a long era of doublets and hose. The ...
... vest, I know not well how; but it is to teach the nobility thrift, and will do good."1 Donned with a mixture of solemnity and fanfare, the vest marked a new beginning to Englishmen's fashion, ending a long era of doublets and hose. The ...
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... vest inaugurated a new and essentially modern era of mas- culine aesthetics, one that reversed a long-held association between elab- orate display and high social status. Manly thrift now displayed elite status. Along with the three ...
... vest inaugurated a new and essentially modern era of mas- culine aesthetics, one that reversed a long-held association between elab- orate display and high social status. Manly thrift now displayed elite status. Along with the three ...
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... vest and took full shape in the eighteenth century. It is in the nineteenth century that this great mascu- line renunciation became recognizably modern in its uniformity, and it is during this same period that sobriety and thrift came 4 ...
... vest and took full shape in the eighteenth century. It is in the nineteenth century that this great mascu- line renunciation became recognizably modern in its uniformity, and it is during this same period that sobriety and thrift came 4 ...
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目次
1 | |
2 The Old Sartorial Regime 15501688 | 17 |
3 The SeventeenthCentury Fashion Crisis | 51 |
4 The ThreePiece Suit | 77 |
5 Masculinity in the Age of Chivalry 16881832 | 91 |
6 The Making of the SelfMade Man 17501850 | 133 |
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