Kilcreggan and Cove on the one side of it, Strone and Blairmore on the other, and the lofty Benlomond in the distance. As we proceed in the direction of the Holy Loch, looking out to sea on our left, a good view of Bute and the Islands of Cumbrae is to be had. In front of us the villas and cottages, which in the distance appear to be so closely built as almost to resemble a town, are, as the steamer nears the shore, found to be pretty wide apart and surrounded by green foliage, which gives them a most charming appearance.

Seventeen or eighteen minutes' sail from Prince's Pier (a distance of fully six miles,) brings us alongside Kirn Kirn. Pier, which is our nearest landing place for Hunter's Quay, Sandbank, and other watering-places on the Holy Loch. In four minutes more we are at Dunoon, where Dunoon. passengers by Great Northern, North Eastern, and North British Railways, via Helensburgh, join the steamer. Dunoon is one of the oldest and most important watering-places on the West Coast. At one time the only regular communication with Dunoon and the Renfrewshire shore, viz., the Highlands and Lowlands, was by the public Ferry. The green mound not far beyond the pier is surmounted by the remains of the Castle of Dunoon formerly a royal residence. The highest hill in the background is Benmore, (2,500 ft.). Opposite Dunoon, is the "Cloch Lighthouse" erected in 1791. It is 80 feet high, and shows at night a light visible 12 miles off, and possesses a powerful fog-horn.

Passing the charming West Bay of Dunoon, and looking to the opposite shore, near the village of Inverkip, we see the mansion of Sir Michael Shaw Stewart, Bart., lord of the manor, and a little above Wemyss Bay, Castle Wemyss, the residence of John Burns, Esq., of the Belfast, Liverpool, and famous Cunard fleet. Below Wemyss Bay as we proceed, Skelmorlie and Largs are discernible on the Ayrshire side. The peaks of Arran may also be seen in front of us; but a much better view is to be had when we reach Lochfyne. Skirting along the "Bullwood" shore towards Innellan, our next calling place, we have a Innellan succession of very handsome villas situated amongst beautiful green sloping fields, studded with handsome trees. On leaving Innellan we sail along the Cowal

Rothesay.

shore until we round Toward Point, on which there is a lighthouse. Beyond it to the right, is Castle Toward, pleasantly situated, the seat of A. S. Finlay, Esq. We now make for the Bute shore, and on our left in a southerly direction is Mount Stuart House, the seat of the Marquis of Bute. Upon the Bute shore we see numerous splendid summer residences, and after passing Craigmore Pier, and entering the bay of Rothesay, the Royal Aquarium, and the Hydropathic Establishment conspicuous.

We now reach Rothesay. On the quay there is quite a crowd of people congregated; some to meet friends arriving, others for curiosity, and many who are bent on having a sail with us. Rothesay, the capital of Bute, is delightfully situated, and has a very mild climate. Rothesay Castle was a royal residence in the reign of Robert II. and his son Robert III., and the latter died there in 1406. The ruins are in excellent preservation. We next make for the entrance to the Kyles of Bute, and the scenery now becomes even more attractive than hitherto. On our left we pass Ardbeg point, and afterwards the bay and village of Port-Bannatyne, another watering place. To our right is Lochstriven (the "Rothesay weather-glass,") extending some nine miles inland, amongst huge hills. Before us towards our right is South Hall, (Col. Campbell). This estate is beautifully wooded; and the trees were so planted as to represent the positions of the British and French armies at the Battle of Waterloo; but as many of the trees have been lately cut down the representation is somewhat marred. The steamer next touches Colintraive. Colintraive, the nearest landing place for Glendaruel. At this pier some groups of passengers leave us, mostly bent on having pleasant pic-nics on shore. Although few habitations are to be seen for miles around, there are many delightful walks, much frequented by those who are out on pleasure. Leaving Colintraive, we sail through the Kyles (or narrows) of Bute proper, and here the scenery increases in interest and beauty. The strip of water is very contracted, there being only a little more than sufficient width to allow our steamer to pass through between the mainland on our right and the

at

Island of Bute on our left.

The tourist who for the first time sails through this strait is at a loss to know how the steamer can possibly proceed further, as the high steep hills in front seem to shut it entirely in, until he begins to notice an arm, as it were, of the sea to his right, and another to his left; but which one is likely to be taken is puzzling. The one to the right (Loch Ridden) extends six miles inland to Ormidale and Glendaruel. As the steamer turns to the left, Loch Ridden opens up in all its grandeur, and is indeed a sight well worth remembering. Here we have glen and mountain, loch and stream, with, if it be calm, the reflection of the hills in the bright green water, so that every turn we make discloses new and more exciting beauties. At the entrance to Loch Ridden is a little low island ("Eilan Greg") marked by a solitary tree. This was the scene of the failure of the Earl of Argyll's expedition in 1685, so graphically described by Macaulay. The castle we now pass is Glen Caladh, the property of George Robert Stephenson, Esq., C. E., of Newcastle, and nephew of the great engineer. The estate, since it came into Mr. Stephenson's possession, has undergone very considerable inprovement-what before was bare and barren, is now wooded and picturesque-no expense having been spared in beautifying the place, and adding to its natural charms. Almost directly opposite on the Bute shore are the "Maids of Bute," two rocks on a green spot upon the hill, resembling two maids sitting side by side. A few minutes more, after turning to our right at Rhubaan Point, we call at the pretty village of Tighnabruaich, an enjoyable Tighnasea-side retreat. Tighnabruaich is a Gaelic word, denoting "House of the Brae," as for a long time there was but one house here; of late, however, the place has increased very much.

We next pass Kames, where there are large Powder Mills, but everything of an explosive nature is manufactured more than two miles from the shore on the road which strikes across to Lochfyne. Looking before us we see the low-lying island of Inchmarnock, and further off the Holy Isle. On this side of Ardlamont Point, or what is sometimes termed "Blind man's Bay," a ferry boat comes off to the steamer. On turning the point a

bruaich.