bination Poor-house and Lunatic Asylum upon the hill behind. In the near foreground, are Bishopton Chapel and Palace, the seat of the Episcopal Bishop of Argyll and the Isles, built in 1851, and on the left the beautifullywooded grounds, and ivy-covered mansion-house of Auchindarroch (Alexander Campbell, Esq.) Half-an-hour after leaving Ardrishaig we arrive at Cairnbaan (White Cairnbaa Cairn), so called from a cairn that once stood here, and in which was discovered a cist, or stone coffin. In this neighbourhood are several "menhirs" or standing stones, and groups of "petroglyphs" or cup and circle sculptures, of great interest to the antiquary. At Cairnbaan, the entrance to the Vale of Dail, there is a series of locks (nine within a mile), and as the steamer takes about forty-five minutes to go through them, passengers gene ally prefer to walk the distance. At lock No 8-the last of the ascending series-traces of the devastation caused by the accident of 1859 are still plainly visible. On emerging from the valley and descending to the lower level on the west side, the Canal skirts the base of the Knapdale Hills, and to the right is the large plain or moss called Crinan Moss, about five thousand acres in extent. At the base

of the hills bounding the plain on the north and east, can be seen the village of Kilmartin, and close by it the ruins of Carnasserie Castle; while on a clear day we here get a peep of the peaks of Ben Cruachan (3800 feet), sixteen miles east of Oban. Further off, still on our right, situated on the slope of a finely-wooded hill, is the noble mansion-house of Poltalloch, John Malcolm, Esq., whose extensive estate stretches for about forty miles in one continuous line. The mountains of Scarba and Mull are now seen in the distance. About fifteen minutes after leaving the lower lock the steamer reaches Bellanoch Bay, with the prettily-situated village of Bellanoch on its shore; and the right bank of the Canal is now bounded by the river Add and the waters of Inner Loch Crinan. In a few minutes we pass Kilmahumaig, where previous to the sixteenth century stood a fine chapel. The burying ground is still in use, and a little way to the left of it we get a glimpse of a green mound, crowned with a stone seat, from which, in the olden days, the Lords of the Isles were wont to dispense justice. A remarkable rock

Crinan.

called the "Lion of Crinan," so named from its striking resemblance to a lion couchant, may now be observed on the right, while further off, situated on a bold promontory, is Duntroon Castle, a comparatively modern building erected upon the ruin of the ancient stronghold. We now arrive at Crinan, the western terminus of the canal, and leaving the "LINNET," half-a-minute's walk brings us to the pier, where we find either of the splendid steamships "CHEVALIER or "IONA" waiting our arrival with steam up and ready to start. Immediately after going on board the Dinner bell rings for Cabin passengers, and as the strong sea air, which has been plainly perceptible for fully half-an-hour, whets one's appetite, the dinner is usually well patronised. (Steerage or Third-Class passengers dine in Fore Cabin about half-an-hour afterwards).

The mainland of Argyle, along the coast of which we here sail, is called Lorn, and is divided into two districts, Upper and Nether Lorn. The course of the steamer lies across the mouth of Loch Craignish, at the head of which may be seen, on our right, Barbreck House (Admiral Colin Campbell) and on our left we have the Sound of Jura, bounded on the east by the mountains of Knapdale and Kintyre, and on the west by the islands of Jura and Islay. The three conical mountains in the distance are the "Paps of Jura," about 2000 feet high. Some miles down the Knapdale coast we can see Downie House, where Thomas Campbell, the poet, spent some of his early student days. Fifteen minutes after leaving Crinan the steamer passes between the Point of Craignish and the Island of Garbreisha, by the "Dorus Mor," or Great Door, through which the tides run with a velocity of nearly eight miles an hour. Doubling the Point, we come in sight of Craignish Castle (Colonel Gascoigne), situated at the head of Loch Beg. The schistose rocks here claim the attention of geologists, being pierced in some places by trap-dykes, one of which, rising high above the surrounding strata, is often mistaken by tourists for a fragment of some feudal fortress. Craignish. At Craignish a ferryboat generally comes out to the steamer. After leaving Craignish we have, on the left, a good view of the north end of Jura and the Island of

Scarba, between which is the celebrated whirlpool of Corryvrechan; while on a clear day may be descried the distant Colonsay. The Atlantic tide, rushing with prodigious velocity-about eighteen miles an hour-through the strait between Scarba and Jura, and impeded in its course by a great sunken rock that rises to within some fifteen fathoms of the surface, is thrown into such violent commotion that sometimes the roar of the waves can be heard at a distance of many miles. Corryvrechan shows to best advantage after a westerly gale, and with a flood tide, when the waves may be said to leap mountains high. The steamer is now crossing the mouth of Loch Melfort, and to the right is the Island of Shuna, bequeathed to the City of Glasgow for benevolent purposes by the late Mr Yeates. Rounding the Point of Luing we enter the Sound of Luing, with the Island of Lunga (J. M'Dougall, Esq.) on our left, and steaming along the coast for about three miles, arrive at Black-Mill Bay, Black-Mill Luing. The gable of the old mill from which the place Bay, Luing. takes its name, may be noticed standing close to the shore, and a little to the left is Ardlarach House (George Willison, Esq.), who farms the greater portion of the island, and whose steading the model farm of the late Marquis of Bredalbane-is seen towards the right and further inland. Near Black-Mill Bay are three rocks remarkably alike, when looked at from a particular position, and called the Cobblers of Lorn. The tides here run strongly (about seven miles an hour), and at certain states the surface of the sea is covered with thousands of miniature whirlpools. We now pass Phladda Lighthouse and the Island of Belnahua, and to our right is the village of Collupool, where, as also on Belnahua, there are extensive slate quarries. A group of isles may be seen two or three miles to westward of the lighthouse, and on the summit of the northernmost-Dunconnel are the remains of a large fortification. Connel crossed over from Ireland about the 11th century. The next island Garveloch, is the largest of the group. The southmost island in the chain Eileacha Naombh (Anglice, Holy Isle) is associated with the memory of St. Columba. About the middle of the island, and on its eastern shore, are the saint's landing place and well-a spring of delicious

Easdale.

water.

Near this are the remains of two specimens of the bee-hive structure; the ruins of a chapel; an underground cell of neat construction, and an old buryingground with sculptured stones, which are fast disappearing beneath the untrodden soil. A little to the south of the burying-ground, on a sunny slope, there is a small stone circle with a cross rudely engraved on one of the stones. Tradition points to this spot as the burial-place of St. Columba's mother. For an interesting description of a visit to this island, see "Hinba," Cornhill Magazine, February, 1880.

We now sail for a short time on the waters of the broad Atlantic. To the left lies the Island of Mull"Dark Mull"-with its bold, black bluffs and lofty mountains-Ben Mhor, Ben Buy, Ben Talla, and stretching away to the west the Ross of Mull, and low-lying Ardalanish Point; a few miles on the other side of which is Iona. On our right may be noticed the Strait or Sound of Cuan, separating Luing from the next island, Seil. Before us is Easdale, and at the head of the bay, on the right, are Dunmore House (Mrs. Gillies) and the Free Church Manse.

Shortly, by a very narrow and rocky channel, almost invisible till we are close upon it, the steamer glides between the Islands of Easdale (left) and Seil (right), and arrives at Easdale Pier. The village has a population of about 900; and the quarries, celebrated for the quality of the slates produced, are very extensive, affording employment to about 300 men and boys. They have been wrought for over 200 years, and are now sunk fifty fathoms below the level of the sea. In 1862 a serious accident-fortunately unattended by any loss of lifeoccurred by the sea breaking in and flooding one of the quarries. It took nearly three years to pump it out. The men are hardy, industrious, and intelligent, and are first-rate boatmen, while many of them are artillery volunteers, maintaining a high rate of efficiency.

We are now in the Firth of Lorn, and to our left, in the distance may be seen the entrance to the Sound of Mull; the Mountains of Morvern, and the southern extremity of the Island of Lismore, with its lighthouse; before us is the Island of Kerrera. Our course lies close

to the coast of Seil, and a little way outside the harbour another very prominent trap-dyke may be observed. We pass on the left Sheep Island, and on the right, at Barnacarry Point is a curious rock, called from its resemblance to a squat frog-the Frog of Lorn. Here, looking back, we got a good view of the bridge that spans the Sound between the Island of Seil and the Mainland. It is thirty feet high, to allow small coasting craft to sail underneath, and is said to have been the first instance in Britain in which an island was joined to the mainland by means of a bridge. On the right Loch Feochan and—– nearing Kerrera-Gylen Castie, situated on a rocky promontory, come into view. Tradition says that this castle was built by the Danes, but it is now believed to be of somewhat later origin. A stronghold of the Macdougalls of Lorn, it was, during the civil wars beseiged and captured in 1647 by General Leslie. A considerable amount of historical interest attaches to Kerrera, from the fact of its being the place where Alexander II. died in 1249, when on his way to suppress a revolt of the Western Islanders; and a spot called Dalrigh, or the King's Field, is pointed out where his death occurred. We now enter the Sound of Kerrera, and on the right in a finely-wooded hollow, may be seen the castellated. mansion-house of Gallanach (P. M'Dougall, Esq.). In a few minutes afterwards, on the right, we pass Kilbowie Lodge (A. Dunn Pattison, Esq.) and then come in sight of Altnacraig-picturesquely perched on a grey conglomerate cliff-the summer residence of Professor Blackie. The villa next to it is Dungallan House (D. A. Campbell, Esq.). The hulk 66 Enterprise," moored in Ardentrive Bay, on the left, formed one of the Arctic Expedition, which in the year, 1848, sailed under the command of Sir J. C. Ross in search of Sir John Franklin. She was abandoned in the ice and picked up three years afterwards by the Americans, who fitted her out and sent her over to this country. The "Enterprise" is now employed as the store ship for coals, &c., for the use of the Northern Lighthouse Commissioners' steamers Pharos, &c.

Dunollie Castle-the chief stronghold of the Lords of Lorn-one of the oldest and most picturesquely situated