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Oban

of our Western Highland ruins, is now seen to great advantage from the steamer, being thrown into bold relief against the sky-line. The ivy-clad donjon or keep is the principal part now remaining, but from traces which can still be distinguished of other buildings, we are led to infer, that originally the castle was of large proportions, and doubtless protected in the usual manner by outworks, moat, and drawbridge. The present lineal representative of the ancient Lords of Lorn, once so powerful as to defy and defeat the warrior king, Robert the Bruce, is Colonel C. A, Macdougall, whose mansion stands in a hollow behind the ruin. The Brooch of Lorn, snatched from the shoulder of the Bruce, in the combat near Tyndrum, is still preserved among the ancient relics of the family.

"The Brooch of burning gold

That clasped the chieftian's mantlefold,
Wrought and chased with rare device,
Studded fair with gems of price,

On the varied tartans beaming

As thro' night's pale rainbow gleaming."

Two years afterwards Bruce defeated Macdougall in the Pass of Brander. Upon the shore, about a quarter of a mile nearer Oban, is the huge conglomerate mass called Clach-nan-con or the Dog's Stone. Tradition says that Fingal used this rock as a stake to which he tethered his celebrated dog Bran; and those who believe this legend, can in proof thereof, point to the fact of the very considerable abrasion of the pillar at its base, just what might have resulted from its having been used in the manner asserted. Doubtless Bran like any other dog, occasionally broke his chain, and could some zealous antiquary only succeed in unearthing one link,-the "missing link,"—aye, even half a link of Bran's chainsurely, all doubt as to the authenticity of the legend would be for ever set at rest.

At Oban, those who desire to make the tours of Staffa and Iona, Loch Scavaig, Loch Coruisk, Skye, Gairloch, and Loch Maree, land. Also those who wish to proceed by Morning Steamer to Ballachulish (for Glencoe and Glenetive), Banavie and Inverness, while those en route for Inverness, who wish to avoid the early

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start from Oban, remain on board, and go on to Ballachulish, Fort William, or Banavie, joining the Inverness steamer at these places on following morning. For information as to hours, &c., see Time Table page 16. Oban, not inaptly described as the Charing Cross of the Highlands, is a most convenient centre for making excursions in all directions. It is of comparatively modern origin, dating no further back than 1791, and its history has been uneventfnl. It originally belonged to Donald Campbell of Dunstaffnage, but since then there have been several changes of ownership. The principal proprietors now are, Robert Macfie, Esq., of Airds; A. W. Macdougall, Esq., of Soraba; and Colonel C. A. Macdougall, of Dunollie, who own respectively the southern, central, and northern portions of the town. Oban has made rapid progress within the last quarter of a century, as may be seen from the rental, which in 1847, was £1719; and is now (1882) over £20,000. There are a number of large and splendidly appointed hotels, capable of accommodating over 1,000 persons, a handsome Hydropathic Establishment in the Scottish Baronial style, also numerous lodging-houses, and the hill sides are studded over with villas, most of which are let in the season. has six churches of various denominations, four banks, and two newspapers are published weekly. Occupying a position of great natural beauty, with a mild and healthy climate, and commanding views of scenery both extensive and grand, it is no wonder that Oban has become a favourite resort of the tourist. As Professor Blackie-our gay old Grecian Gael-quaintly puts it,

"For Oban is a dainty place;

In distant or in nigh lands,

No town delights the tourist race
Like Oban in the Highlands."

It

We now bid adieu to the rapidly rising capital of the West Highlands, with its beautiful bay and after "hugging" the Maiden Isle, and bestowing a parting glance on green mantled Dunollie, we enter Loch Linnhe. On our left we have the Island of Lismore (Great Garden), on the extremity of which is the lighthouse and beyond it the Sound of Mull, with Duart Castle frowning darkly

from Duart Point, Mull, upon the high range of the Morvern Hills, opposite. On our right we have Loch Etive, with Dunstafinage Castle crowning a wooded peninsula jutting out into the Loch; and in the background of mountains, Ben Cruachan, with his twin peaks almost in line, reigns king over all, monarch alike to Loch Etive and Loch Awe.

Dunstaffnage is supposed to have been of Pictish origin, and its history, like that of the earldom of Mar, is lost in the dim vista of antiquity. Here was for a long time preserved the famous Coronation Stone, the palladium of Scotland, originally brought from Ireland by Fergus, who deposited it first at Iona. It was taken by Kenneth II. about the year 850, from Dunstaffnage to Scone, and was subsequently removed by Edward I. to Westminster Abbey, where ever since it has formed the support of the chair in which the ceremony of crowning the monarchs of the British Empire is performed. ancient monkish distich thus runs :

NI FALLAT FATUM, SCOTI, QUOCUNQUE LOCATUM,
INVENIENT LAPIDEM, REGNARE TENENTUR IBIDEM,

An

and has been translated as follows by Sir Walter Scott:

"Unless the fates are faithless found,

And prophet's voice be vain,
Where'er this monument is found,
The Scottish race shall reign."

"There were Scots," adds Sir Walter, "who hailed the accomplishment of this prophecy at the accession of James VI. to the crown of England." Kenneth M'Alpine having transferred the seat of government from Dunstaffnage to Forteviot, about 845, for some centuries thereafter Dunstaffnage is not noticed in the national annals, and only reappears when Robert the Bruce took possession of it after his victory over Macdougall of Lorn in the Pass of Brander. The castle and its domains were granted in 1436 to Campbell of Loch Awe. Two miles from Dunstaffnage further up Loch Etive, is the Cataract of Connel (Ossian's Falls of Lora.) The bed of the loch here contracts till it is barely two hundred yards broad, and being interrupted by an extensive ridge of

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