OBAN TO LOCH ETIVE.

This arrangement has not yet been completed.

Starting by train for Achnacloich, on leaving the station the line passes through the Drimamhargie cutting, and afterwards skirts the edge of Lochamhuillin—a low lying marshy flat but which doubtless, ere many years elapse, and as Oban expands, will be filled up and built upon. As we sweep round to the left, and enter Glencruitten, many charming glimpses may be had of Oban Bay and its surroundings. After a continuous ascent for about three miles, the summit of the Glen is reached, and in a few minutes more a splendid panorama opens up to our gaze. The regal Dunstaffnage stands before us, still stately and grand in its ruins the wooded peninsula on which it is built being washed by the quickly-flowing Etive; and on the other side of the loch are seen Benderloch, Beregonium, and the promontory of Lochnell, with the walls of its thrice-burnt castle peeping above the tall trees that surround it. On our left is the modern mansion of the late Sir Donald Campbell (of Dunstaffnage). The famous Falls of Connel (or Lora) now come in sight. A short distance up the loch a couple of semaphores on each side denote where the submarine cable connecting Oban and Fort-William enters and emerges from the water. Right above, on the left hand, lie the "Black Crofts," a row of houses occupied by cottars and others on the Lochnell estate. The line now passes behind Kilmaronaig, recently leased by Mr. Virtue, the late eminent London publisher. Facing us on the other side is seen the large substantial parish church of Ardchattan, surrounded by a graveyard dotted by numerous tombstones. The mansion of Highwood, picturesquely situated on an eminence on the right bank, is now conspicuous, and in a few minutes we reach Achnacloich Station, where we find the steamer waiting our arrival. The beautiful estate of Ardchattan is now to be seen on the opposite shore of the loch, and considerable interest attaches to the mouldering ivy-mantled ruins of Ardchattan Priory, founded in the 14th century by an order of Cistercian monks. Steaming smoothly on, the apparent head of the loch is reached, but on rounding

an almost undistinguishable point, the water debouches into a broad expanse facing the widely-scattered village of Bunawe. Here a call is made at the wharf, after leaving which the steamer is headed for the upper reach of Loch Etive, a stretch of nearly thirteen miles of most magnificent scenery. Opposite Bunawe, right up from the water's edge, rises the precipitous granite mountain from which Mr. Sim, the lessee, by means of monster blasts, using many tons of gunpowder in one operation, supplies Glasgow with paving material. Ben Cruachan, though a prominent object all the way up, now looms grandly into view, wrapped shoulder and waist in a plaid of Scottish mist, and gradually one of its proud peaks emerges from its cloudy covering, and adds to the nobleness of its proportions. This mountain, though not the highest, is, in our estimation, decidedly one of the most picturesque of Highland Bens. Its base is 24 miles in circumference. In the rear are seen the entrances to Glencoe, Glen Liver, Glenkinglas, and the celebrated Black Mount. On the right hand, too, Ben Starra attains an altitude of 3541 feet. The scene is now very fine, mountain towering above mountain as far as the eye can reach, while overhead thick watery clouds roll slowly from peak to peak, or twine in fantastic shadowy masses round summit and shoulder. As the head of the loch is being reached, the curiously-formed twin-mountain, Buachail Etive, rises in the background, and by its picturesque appearance sets off the scenic effect, so to speak, and adds completeness to this wonderful picture of Highland scenery. At the base of the hills lies a small barn-like structure, with only one diminutive window, which is locally known as Inverguisachan Free Church. At this point, too, is seen the famous Fingal's Leap, the scene of one of the note-worthy exploits of this Ossianic hero, and it may be mentioned that the truth of this traditionary narrative is attested by the huge hoofmarks of Fingal's mammoth steed, still to be seen on the rocky face of the latter Ben. A stone called the Sack Stone, with which he is said to have balanced the bag over his horse's back, and which dropped out in the terrible leap, is also shown at the water's edge. The head of the loch is now reached, and on landing we find

a large and commodious coach ready in waiting. Having taken seats, in a few paces we are abreast of the splendid mansion-house of the late Mr. Greaves, formerly M.P. for Warwick. We next drive past Coinletter and Invercharnan, and are hemmed in on each side by Ben Ceitlein and Ben Chaoran, and others of that ilk. The scene, mile by mile, becomes more and more impressive until, about the middle of the glen, the mind becomes lost in wonderment at the stupendous grandeur and savageness of the entire surroundings. The estate of Dalness is now entered upon, and on the right is espied the shooting-box of Mr. Gould, the lessee. In front rises, for 3345 feet, the Buachail-Etive, noted for its famous deer-drives. As we sweep round the Buachail, the grotesque hill of Grianan faces us on the other side of the river, and numerous fantastic crags and peaks circumscribe the narrow valley. The solitary dwelling of Alt-a-Chaoran is now passed, and no other human habitation meets our eye till, a few miles further on, we reach the upland, and discover Kingshouse Inn, a most comfortable hostelry, nestling amongst a cluster of trees. This point is reached after a drive through Glen Etive of thirteen miles, and without doubt these miles embrace scenery unexcelled in broad Scotland; indeed, we question if Switzerland can surpass it. In this view we are supported by the opinion of the late Professor Wilson; and "Kit North," it is known, knew Scotland well, and Switzerland too.

The route through Glencoe has been so often described that little need be said of it here; it is sufficient to say that it forms a fitting climax to the scenes just sketched. Soon the "Lord Chancellor" heaves in sight, wrapt in his hoary garments, and condoled with in his lonely situation by the three stalwart maidens, "Faith," "Hope," and "Charity," on the opposite side of the gorge. Clachaig Inn is by and bye reached. Again we drive through another stretch of the same sublime scenery, passing on the way the scene of the memorable massacre, one of the foulest deeds recorded in British history. The village of Ballachulish is thereafter reached, then the slate quarries, and the coach finally draws up at the Ballachulish Hotel. Passengers proceed to the pier, and embark on board the steamer, which swiftly conveys them to their destination.

The times stated above are merely given for general information and are NOT guaranteed. *The connection to Oban via Lochawe returning (any day) by Crinan, can be relied upon.-The 8 a.m. connection by train frem Oban via Lochawe to Glasgow same day, may possibly not be in force during part of the summer. The "LOCH AWE" sails daily from middle of June till end of Sept.

The well-known "Royal Route" to Oban is from Ardrishaig by way of Crinan, but this new route, namely, from Ardrishaig by way of Loch Awe, forms a variety for the tourist. (For description of route, Glasgow to Ardrishaig, see pages 17 to 25). Arriving at Ardrishaig by the Steamer "Columba" or "Iona," a coach is in readiness, which proceeds to Ford, at the south-end of Loch Awe, a distance of about 14 miles. Notably, on the way to Ford, we pass Kilmichael-Glassary, in which valley, at Kirnan, stood "the home of the forefathers," of Thomas Campbell, the poet, referred to in his exquisite "Lines on Visiting a Scene in Argyleshire." The still more charming valley of Kilmartin is afterwards reached, with its wood-clad slopes, its neat village, its handsome parish church, and its ancient castle, the whole forming, perhaps, one of the most picturesque combinations to be witnessed anywhere, in Scotland. A mile further on,

Carnassarie Castle crowns a neighbouring height, and having run through Craiginturie Pass with its bold acclivities, and skirted Dog's Head Loch, and Ederline