While their countenances embronzed by continual exposure to the sun, and their bold reckless air, mark them as contrabandistas. These fellows carry on a profitable but hazardous traffic in smuggling British goods from Oporto and Lisbon, across the Spanish frontier.

'Here are natives, also, of every other mercantile country of the globe; Britons, Americans, French, Dutch, Italians, with occasionally a turbaned and loose-robed Moor, a squalid Jew, or a half-naked negro. The confusion of so many different tongues, and the varied character and contrast of costume in the motley multitude, combine to form a source of infinite amusement to the stranger.'

-Ib. pp. 39-42.

Our author quitted Lisbon after a week's stay without regret, as more romantic regions, inhabited by a nobler race, lay before him. Their vessel left the Tagus in the evening with a flowing sheet, and as they shaped a southern course, before night closed, the blue mountains of Cintra had faded from their view. The following morning the headland of St. Vincent rose to view, where England's greatest hero won his earliest laurels. A bluff headland of grey limestone, nearly one hundred feet high, washed into bold forms by the ocean, with a detached rock at its base, and a convent on its brow. The Cape receives its name from the saint having been murdered here. Another tradition asserts he was fed by a crow: and by the Spanish Arabs the promontory was called Keneesat Alghorab, or the Church of the Crow. About one league from St. Vincent is the Punta de Sagres, now a mere fishing village, but once a flourishing town, founded four centuries ago by the renowned Prince Henry, who resided there, and fitted out fleets of discovery along the western coast of Africa, which led to the passage to India by the Cape of Good Hope.

Evening closed ere they had doubled Cape Santa Maria. The sunset here was even more glorious than off the coast of Estramadura; the phosphoric illuminations of the ocean were more brilliant; the air more soft and balmy; and every thing indicated a more southern latitude. So our traveller went to bed, with 'ardent anticipations of the morrow, when he was for the first 'time to tread the soil of sunny Andalucia.'

At seven in the morning Cadiz was visible ahead,—a faint white streak, between the dark blue of the sea and the softer azure of the sky. The many-towered city appears to rise, like Venice, out of the deep. They pass the glittering town of Rota on its low sandy coast, enter the bay, and at nine, come to anchor. On one hand spread the sunny white mass of the city, girt by the sea wall and batteries,-on the other, two leagues off, on the bright line of coast, the town of Port St. Mary. Before them, the bay stretched far inward, like a lake, bounded by low shores, and overlooked in the south-east by the grey mountains of Ronda.

Around, numerous vessels at anchor with mighty British and French ships of war amongst them; and snowy sails scudding in every direction.

Landing, and having undergone the custom-house scrutiny, the traveller found himself in a large square-the Plaza del Mar -and turning out of it to the right, lo and behold! he finds himself in the midst of the grandest bustle of the grandest festival in the Romish calendar-the day of Corpus Christi,'- and the procession of the host was about to commence. Of course our traveller was exceedingly fortunate in arriving just at this time, not for the sake of witnessing the miserable mummery, but for its 'concomitants'-the spectators, not the abominable spectacle-as the occasion gave him an opportunity of seeing an immense crowd of all classes, high and low, brought into contrast. An immense crowd it was, of all sorts, swarming round some dozens of priests, carrying about a piece of baked dough in state, which they call Sa Majestad,' His Majesty,' in a huge costodia of massive silver. We have no space for the procession, but the following is a partial description of the general scene of bustle and hilarity, set afloat by the idolatrous pageant.

Lofty houses of the most dazzling whiteness rose up on either hand, with balconies to all the windows, hung with damask, or silk cloths richly flowered, crimson, blue, or canary coloured, behind which were ranged the dark eyed girls of Cadiz.' Below, crowds of citizens of both sexes, and of all ages and conditions, were working their way between ranks of the National Guard, in gay uniforms, drawn up on either side of the street. The fierce rays of the sun were excluded, or rather softened down into a voluptuous light, by awnings of canvass, or flags stretched from roof to roof across those streets through which the procession was to pass. The brightness and rich contrast of colour -the buzz and bustle-the eternal flutter and furling of fans-the flashing of the wild black eyes of their fair owners from the balconies and from below-together with the novelty of the costumes, formed a tout-ensemble that could not fail to astonish, amuse, and delight the stranger.

'When I had recovered from the first surprise excited by this dazzling scene, and could look more calmnly around, my attention was naturally drawn to the singular costume of the women; for on every side were mantillas of black lace or silk, which being fastened to the head, falling over the back and shoulders, and partly concealing the countenance, made me for a moment fancy myself among a nation of nuns. But the roguish unsaintly glances of these fair ones soon undeceived me with the assurance, that in the veil alone did the resemblance consist. Some few mantillas were of white lace, and here and there a French bonnet, all flowers and ribbons, contrasted with the more sober head-dresses. The young Gaditana gliding along as fast as the crowd, or her notions of grace, would allow, her black eyes sparkling with delight at so favorable an opportunity of displaying her

While their countenances embronze,' and their bold reckless air, mat fellows carry on a profitable but hi goods from Oporto and Lisbon, across

Here are natives, also, of every o globe; Britons, Americans, French, Dut a turbaned and loose-robed Moor, a sque. negro. The confusion of so many differen character and contrast of costume in the moti form a source of infinite amusement to the stru

Our author quitted Lisbon after a week's stay as more romantic regions, inhabited by a nobler r him. Their vessel left the Tagus in the evening w. sheet, and as they shaped a southern course, before ri the blue mountains of Cintra had faded from their vi following morning the headland of St. Vincent rose : where England's greatest hero won his earliest laurels. headland of grey limestone, nearly one hundred feet high, w into bold forms by the ocean, with a detached rock at its is. and a convent on its brow. The Cape receives its name from t saint having been murdered here. Another tradition asserts le was fed by a crow: and by the Spanish Arabs the promontory was called Keneesat Alghorab, or the Church of the Crow. About one league from St. Vincent is the Punta de Sagres, now a mere fishing village, but once a flourishing town, founded four centuries ago by the renowned Prince Henry, who resided there, and fitted out fleets of discovery along the western coast of Africa, which led to the passage to India by the Cape of Good Hope.

Evening closed ere they had doubled Cape Santa Maria. The sunset here was even more glorious than off the coast of Estramadura; the phosphoric illuminations of the ocean were more brilliant; the air more soft and balmy ; and every thing indicated a more southern latitude. So our traveller went to bed, with 'ardent anticipations of the morrow, when he was for the first 'time to tread the soil of sunny Andalucia.'

At seven in the morning Cadiz was visible ahead,—a faint white streak, between the dark blue of the sea and the softer azure of the sky. The many-towered city appears to rise, like Venice, out of the deep. They pass the glittering town of Rota on its low sandy coast, enter the bay, and at nine, come to anchor. On one hand spread the sunny white mass of the city, girt by the sea wall and batteries, on the other, two leagues off, on the bright line of coast, the town of Port St. Mary. Before them, the bay stretched far inward, like a lake, bounded by low shores, and overlooked in the south-east by the grey mountains of Ronda,

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Lofty houses of the most dazz hand, with balconies to all the winG cloths richly flowered, crimson, blue, were ranged the dark eyed girls of Car of both sexes, and of all ages and conc between ranks of the National Guard, in either side of the street. The fierce ray rather softened down into a voluptuous lig or flags stretched from roof to roof across th the procession was to pass. The brightness a -the buzz and bustle-the eternal flutter zar flashing of the wild black eyes of their fair ow and from below-together with the novelty of t tout-ensemble that could not fail to astonish, a

stranger.

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"When I had recovered from the first surprise e zling scene, and could look more cay around, a naturally drawn to the singular costume of the wou side were mantillas of black lace or .. Le being head, falling over the back and shoulder, and partly,

countenance, made me for a moment fazer

nuns.

But the roguish unsaintly glances of these fair one Iceived me with the assurance, that in the real date semblance consist. Some few mantillas were of white lac the more sober head-dresses. The young Genta and there a French bonnet, all flowers and the fast as the crowd, or her notions of grace, would cow. sparkling with delight at so favorable an segera da

charms, and her fan fluttering with increased rapidity as she recognized some acquaintance in the balconies, whom she greeted with a gracious nod, or still more gracious smile-the fat dowager waddling at her side, bedizened with finery-the shrivelled old grandmother creeping through the crowd-and the little girl hardly emerged from infancy,were all similarly attired, arranging the mantilla with one hand, and wielding the fan with the other. The gipsy-girl, too, with her red or yellowpañuelo,' or shawl, thrown over her head as a mantilla, was there, bandying jokes with the soldiers, rolling her dark glances boldly around, and casting her swarthy smiles freely at any thing wearing a hat or a schako.

'The citizens of the other sex were the least novel part of the scene, being dressed in the universal European costume, and resembling the tradesmen especially-the corresponding orders of Parisians, both in countenance and dress. They seemed to form a class distinct from, and much inferior in appearance to the peasantry, who had come in from the country to witness the funcion, (spectacle, Gallicé,) and who with their high conical hats, long handkerchiefs beneath, streaming down their backs, gay jackets hanging hussar-fashion, over the left shoulder, crimson sashes, open leather leggings, haughty air, and dare-devil looks, formed not the least picturesque feature of the scene. If the women at first sight looked like nuns, the men of this class no less resembled bandits. Here and there, too, a man, muffled up in a rusty brown cloak, his dark eyes glaring beneath his broad-brimmed slouched hat, realized our popular conceptions of a Spanish assassin.

'One drawling, monotonous cry rose loud above the general hum― 'Agua-! Agua fresca-a! Quien bebe-e? Agua de nieve-e! Water! Fresh water! Who drinks? Snow water!' The aguadores, or water-sellers, with large jars slung on their backs, and sets of tumblers in their hands, were seen on every side pushing their way through the crowd, alternately chinking their glasses, vociferating the praises of the fluid, and serving it out to all classes at a farthing a glass.' -Ib. pp. 49-52.

The secret of Spanish beauty, in our author's opinion, consisted rather in elegance of figure and manner than in regularity of features; and its fascinations were displayed to more advantage in motion than in repose. The Gaditanas are unrivalled in grace. We should be sorry to see our ladies assume the mantilla; it would not suit the Albion complexion; but they might adopt the pretty Spanish custom of wearing fresh flowers in the hair-toilet, instead of costlier but less beautiful ornaments. We must refer our fair readers to the work itself for dissertations on the mantilla, black and white, the 'basquaña,' but above all the abanico, or fan, an universal and indispensable article of dress with their Spanish competitors, with whom it is an elegant as well as a dangerous weapon-a principal auxiliary in the art of intrigue-a most speaking instrument, and never idle. Now, the Española fans