lines of the Serrania de Ronda, and the Bætis, in long and glittering windings flowing towards the ocean. We have no time for the library, pictures, or relics connected with this establishment,' as we suppose it must be called. The date-palm baskets are still shown as preservatives against lightning. But Catholicism is on the decline even in Seville. The old custom which was observed when Inglis was there in 1830, of uncovering the head, signing the cross, and muttering a petition, when the bell tolled la oracio, is now in entire disuse. Our guide was told, among other wonders, of a wonderful portrait of the Holy Christ, representations of which (be it remembered) are still much used and greatly revered by the Andalucian peasantry. Who painted it?' Ah sinner that I am! there it is-it was not painted at all.' "What do you mean then?' "You shall see, sir. When our blessed Lord was on the cross, (here he made the sign upon his person,) and his face sweated with agony, the most Holy Virgin Mother wiped it with her pocket handkerchief, and the image of the Divine Countenance was impressed on the handkerchief, so as to look like a picture; and there it has remained to this day, and that very handkerchief is now in Jaen Cathedral.'' Seville was the first city that espoused the Holy office of Inquisition with zeal. Within a few years, horrible to relate, no fewer than 4000 heretics were burned here, and 30,000 more reconciled. With all their liberalism, ninety-nine out of every hundred priests are ready to restore the office. The treasures of the cathedral were immense, and still are prodigious, so much so that our author suggests a still further appropriation clause. Pouz says, that in his time (1780) there were annually consumed in this cathedral, eight hundred arrobas (or 20,000 pounds) of wax for candles, an equal quantity of oil for lamps, and 1,500 arrobas (or 6,000 gallons) of wine for masses. Seville, although woefully decayed, is still the third city in the kingdom; containing nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants. The Roman and Moorish wall, with its numerous towers at intervals, and fifteen gates, is nearly five miles in circuit; but there are large tracts of land within their inclosure. Once it was so populous that four hundred thousand Moors quitted it on its conquest by Ferdinand; it was long the grand seat of commerce of the old and the new world. The eighth chapter contains a charming description of the city, with its labyrinthine streets, lofty houses, with projecting roofs and balconied windows-the costumes of its inhabitants-the Alcazar, Longa, tobacco-factorycannon-foundry-pictures-inns-meals-terrible heat—their Åla medas-tertulias, &c., &c. The account of the Alcazar, an Arabian palace, wonderfully reminds us of the Arabian Nights. Fain would we transfer some of these artistical sketches to our pages We had also marked for quotation the account of the tobaccofactory, erected 1757, at a cost of £390,000; and certainly from its extent, being 600 feet long by 500 broad, enclosing twenty courts, the variety of its occupations, and the number of people it employs, (in one cigar room three thousand women and girls were employed,) it is one of the wonders of the city. Tobacco is one of the royal monopolies, and yet every Spaniard smokes. Our author has given us the best description of a Spanish bullfight which it has been our misfortune to see; and his excellent reflections on its demoralizing or rather brutalizing effects on the nation practising this horrid pastime, we would commend to the attention of the gallant cock-fighter near Cheltenham-or rather to our friend Dr. Styles, (whose essay on cruelty to animals is justly considered as one of the most eloquent productions of the day,) for the next edition of his admirable work. Now for Cordoba, a diligence-road, being on the road to Madrid, and the only carriage-road in this province. The diligence was very superior to the French, drawn sometimes by eight, and occasionally by fifteen mules, harnassed with rope, but adorned with worsted tassels of gay colors, and shorn smooth, except on their flanks and cruppers, where the hair is left to form fantastic patterns in relief. The mayoral, or conducteur, sits on a low seat in front of the berlina, and a zagal, or boy, sits at his side, or on the roof behind. The last view of Seville is caught from an eminence, three or four furlongs from the walls, from which spot the Carthagenian, the Roman, the Goth, the Arab, and Spaniard, in succession have gazed on Seville,-on her temples, mosques, or spires. We have no time for the route or the prospects, with now and then a peep into a vast expanse of plain, covered with ripe wheat, swept by the torrid breezes-or the villages, or the posados, or the travelling companions, or the alarms of robbers, or the incidents, so here we are at Cordoba. ture. Here, as at Seville, the primary object of interest is the cathedral, which was originally a mosque, founded A.D. 786, by Abdurrahman I., in form a parallelogram of 620 feet by 440. Here and there a horse-shoe gateway determines the style of architecThe height is out of all proportion to the extent of the mosque-only thirty-five feet, and the actual mosque itself being 440 feet by 410. Its conversion into a Roman Catholic cathedral has greatly injured it as a relic of Arabian architecture; for numerous small chapels now surround it, with a magnificent choir in the centre. There are twenty-nine aisles, each nine feet in breadth, running from east to west; and nineteen aisles of seventeen feet broad, from north to south. The columns are incredibly numerous, and must be singularly grotesque. Eight hundred and thirty-four still remain out of more than a thousand! They are ten feet high, eighteen inches in diameter, made of jaspar, porphyry, verd-antique, and the choicest marbles-grey, red, green, blue, yellow, and white. In some rooms the walls are covered with exquisite tracery, interspersed with Arabic inscriptions. But the chapel of Mahomed, against the southern wall, surpasses in beauty every other part of the mosque; with its three enclosures, separated by columns of jasper, supporting arches in double tiers, of the most grotesque forms. In the wall is a horse-shoe archway, leading into an inner room, and round it a deep facing of arabesques of the most elegant patterns and brilliant colours-red, black, and gold-formed by mosaic work of chrystal, of inimitable beauty. The Christian additions to the building cannot be viewed without indignation. Nothing besides the mosque remains to indicate the splendour of which Cordoba boasted under the Khalifs. In the tenth century it attained its highest pitch of greatness. The useful arts, especially agriculture, were carried to perfection; inventions were patronized; numerous colleges were established. One library contained 600,000 volumes, and this before the invention of printing! Then its commercial prosperity was at its height. The revenue of the kingdom exceeded six millions sterling, an enormous sum for that early age. The city was of vast extent; one Moorish writer relates, that he travelled ten miles through an uninterrupted line of buildings: exclusive of the suburbs, the city was fourteen miles in circumference; the houses of the whole were more than 200,000, the mosques 600, the hospitals fifty, public schools eighty, public baths 900, and the population to nearly a million, (see Conde, Los Arebes en España, and Casiri, Biblioteca Arabico-Hispana Escurialensis.) Now the population is under thirty thousand, commerce and manufactures utterly dead, and only a decaying wreck remains. Cordoba never recovered the disruption of the ancient kingdom, or the expulsion of the Moors in 1236. Every thing betokens absolute decay-all is dull and drooping but nature-its Spanish manners however are unalloyed, and no city can boast of more romantic associations, while none has preserved so many remains of the olden time. Farewell to Cordoba; now for Grenada, a distance of twenty-two leagues, or more than eighty miles. We must skip the muleroute through Baena to Grenada, although it is most interesting and romantic, (especially the description of the sun-rise approach to that city,) with a line from Childe Harold, which points to all; 'How carols now the lusty muleteer? As whilome he was wont the leagues to cheer, In the morning, after three nights of travel over the dusty roads of this sun-burnt country, our author found himself at the Fonda de Commercio, the principal inn in Grenada. We feel it to be utterly impossible in our limited space to do justice to the glories of Grenada, upon which the author rings no less than nine chapters. Mateo Ximines, whom Geoffrey Crayon has celebrated, came and offered his services, which were of course accepted. We have first a chapter on the city, then a chapter on the city and the Alhambra, then a chapter on the palace, then another on the Alhambra again, then one on the Generaliffe, then separate chapters on the Albaycin, the Alamedas, and after a magnificent excursion to the Sierra Nevada, a wind-up chapter on the city again. With all these things the public are tolerably familiar; and we can only refer to them as by far the cleverest portions of the work. had marked a score of passages for quotation. We From Grenada to Malaga, by Velez ; Malaga to Rondo, Gibraltar, and back to Cadiz, we cannot accompany our traveller. In following him throughout we have sadly felt the want of a map of the province. Instead of these paltry sketches, let us have, in common courtesy, a decent map in the next edition. The concluding chapter contains a summary of the Andalucian character, which would appear to be a veritable compound of the satyr and tiger. Liberty has sprung up here, after ages of tyranny; but destruction not reconstruction, seems her present work throughout Spain; and until this preliminary business be accomplished we shall look in vain for the development of its vast internal resources. The prospect, however, is not so cheerless as the retrospect; but 'What are monuments of bravery We cannot conclude this brief and imperfect notice, without again congratulating the author on his performance, and once more commending the work to the attention of our readers. numerous, and must be singularly grotesque. Eight hundred and thirty-four still remain out of more than a thousand! They are ten feet high, eighteen inches in diameter, made of jaspar, porphyry, verd-antique, and the choicest marbles-grey, red, green, blue, yellow, and white. In some rooms the walls are covered with exquisite tracery, interspersed with Arabic inscriptions. But the chapel of Mahomed, against the southern wall, surpasses in beauty every other part of the mosque; with its three enclosures, separated by columns of jasper, supporting arches in double tiers, of the most grotesque forms. In the wall is a horse-shoe archway, leading into an inner room, and round it a deep facing of arabesques of the most elegant patterns and brilliant colours-red, black, and gold-formed by mosaic work of chrystal, of inimitable beauty. The Christian additions to the building cannot be viewed without indignation. Nothing besides the mosque remains to indicate the splendour of which Cordoba boasted under the Khalifs. In the tenth century it attained its highest pitch of greatness. The useful arts, especially agriculture, were carried to perfection; inventions were patronized; numerous colleges were established. One library contained 600,000 volumes, and this before the invention of printing! Then its commercial prosperity was at its height. The revenue of the kingdom exceeded six millions sterling, an enormous sum for that early age. The city was of vast extent; one Moorish writer relates, that he travelled ten miles through an uninterrupted line of buildings: exclusive of the suburbs, the city was fourteen miles in circumference; the houses of the whole were more than 200,000, the mosques 600, the hospitals fifty, public schools eighty, public baths 900, and the population to nearly a million, (see Conde, Los Arebes en España, and Casiri, Biblioteca Arabico-Hispana Escurialensis.) Now the population is under thirty thousand, commerce and manufactures utterly dead, and only a decaying wreck remains. Cordoba never recovered the disruption of the ancient kingdom, or the expulsion of the Moors in 1236. Every thing betokens absolute decay-all is dull and drooping but nature-its Spanish manners however are unalloyed, and no city can boast of more romantic associations, while none has preserved so many remains of the olden time. Farewell to Cordoba; now for Grenada, a distance of twenty-two leagues, or more than eighty miles. We must skip the muleroute through Baena to Grenada, although it is most interesting and romantic, (especially the description of the sun-rise approach to that city,) with a line from Childe Harold, which points to all; 'How carols now the lusty muleteer? As whilome he was wont the leagues to cheer, |