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43

JEDBURG H.

[Hotels,-Spread Eagle,-The Harrow.]

This picturesquely situated town, perched on the bank of the Jed, its grand monastic ruins crowning its mingled masses of foliage and masonry, on a still higher ridge of the lofty eminence that overlooks the town from the west, is quite a picture of scenic effect, from whatever point approached. The town, high as it stands, is yet sheltered and secluded by lofty banks rising around it. Four principal streets diverge from the market-place at right angles. The Court Hall and Townhouse are here situated, Jedburgh being the county town of Roxburghshire. The centre of a vast sheep district, the trade and manufactures of the town are wool and woollen. The sturdy borderers of Jedburgh were distinguished in the old border wars, and their war-cry, or slogan, "Jethart's here," struck terror over many a field—

"Then rose the slogan, with a shout-
To it, Tyndale! Jethart's here."

The only part of

Old Ballad.

JEDBURGH ABBEY

now standing, is the church, partly in ruins, but which the remains shew to have been a large cross church, comprising a nave, with side aisles, a cross, with transepts, and a choir, with chapels. The eastern or altar end of the choir is completely gone, and there are no remains of the cloisters or chapter-house which extended to the south of the ruins; but nearly the whole other walls of the nave, central tower, and choir, remain. The two latter,' in their dilapidation, still bear the marks of the English cannon of 1544, by which they were battered irrecoverably. The north tran

sept, which has long been set apart as the burial-place of the noble family of Lothian, as representing the Kers of Ferniehirst, possesses a window full of beautiful tracery. The eastern half of the nave next the tower is roofless, whilst the middle and north aisle have been fitted up as a place of worship for the Established Church, with a roof lower than the covering of the ancient church. When this alteration was made (in the last century), the south aisle was demolished. Over the cross rises a lofty square tower, with angular turrets and projecting battlements. The view from the top extends from Carterfell to the vale of Teviot. The picturesque valley of the Jed, not longer than 12 miles in extent, winds downwards from Carlenwoth, one of the mountains near the confines of Liddesdale, that divide England from Scotland; and the Carter and Blackburn falling into it, the Jed is seen threading its way amidst the green round-topped hills of an open pastoral country-once thick forests, though now supplanted by farms and villages-until its limpid waters are contracted within the compass of the wooded, cultivated, and populous valley towards the town. On its banks are the ruins of ancient towers and castles. Its lofty, overhangimg cliffs of soft red sandstone are wreathed with wild shrubs, or clothed to their summit with forest trees. The caverns in these precipitous cliffs have formed the lurking-places of the borderer in many an hour of danger. On the left hand, screened from the river by tall majestic trees, stands the formidable ruin of Fernichirst Castle (1490). The date of its rebuilding (1598), with the arms of the Kers, and initials A. K., are carved over the door of one of the remaining towers inhabited by the game-keeper. Descending from the top of the Abbey Church tower, a general survey of the building altogether shews it to be light, lofty, and elegant in architecture. The middle arches of the nave

are beautifully surmounted, throughout the whole length of the structure, by a close range of Gothic windows. The abbey ruins exhibit three or four styles of Gothic architecture-massive Saxon piers, with deep splayed circular arches in the choir-Norman characteristics over these-and the old or early English character in the superstructure of the nave, beautifully exemplified in the long range of narrow pointed windows, and also in the blank arches at the western end. The pride of the Abbey is, however, its two magnificent Norman doors, one of which, at the west end, is the principle entrance to the church; and the other, in the south wall of the nave, close by the transept, appears to have been the entrance from the cloisters. They are of great interest and beauty, and ranked among the finest remaining specimens of Norman doors in the country. The arch of the west door, enriched by a variety of ornamental mouldings, springing from the capitals of the slender shafts. at either side, is 7 feet in depth. Winton, in his Chronicle, fixes the introduction of the monks, or rather canons regular of St Augustine (for such they were), at Jedburgh, in 1118, while Fordoun gives the foundation of the monastery as in 1147. Their discipline was less rigid than that of other monks; but they lived under one roof, had a common refectory and dormitory, and were tied by solemn vows to observe the rule of monastic life instituted by St Augustine, bishop of Hippo in Africa (430). Their habit was a long black cassock, with a white rochet, and over that a black hood and cloak. The monks were always shaved; but these canons wore beards, and had caps upon their heads, instead of cowls. One of the most remarkable incidents connected with the establishment, was the interruption of the nuptial festivities of Alexander III. by an apparition. Alexander was married at Jedburgh on 14th October 1285 to Joland, daughter of the Compte de Dreux,

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