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captivity, and robbed of all his effects, had, after many adventures, succeeded in making his escape, and at length presented himself under the disguise of an Arab shepherd at the residence of the English agent at Cairo. He remained in the outer court of the house for some time, and it was with some difficulty he obtained an interview with M. Aziz, whose astonishment may be easily imagined when he heard a person of such an appearance address him in French.'

On the 12th of December the travellers quitted Alexandria, taking the road for Rosetta. In a short time they reached the lake of Aboukir, on which they embarked, sailed to its opposite extremity, and entered the sea at the ancient mouth of Canopus. After coasting along for a short time they entered the Lake of Etko, soon reached the town of that name, and again mounting their asses arrived at Rosetta. The latter part of their route gave them, by its barrenness, a foretaste of the sterility they were afterwards to witness. They found, however, the immediate vicinity of Rosetta luxuriant and picturesque. This is a commercial town, and forms the entrepôt of the carrying trade between Cairo and Alexandria.

"The style of building in Rosetta is somewhat peculiar--the houses are very high, and each story projects beyond the one below, so that the opposite buildings nearly meet at the top; but though the streets are, in consequence, rendered very gloomy, they are at the same time shaded from the scorching rays of the sun.'

On the 17th the party, with some accession, embarked on board a maish (boat) for Cairo, which, in consequence of head winds, they did not reach till the 26th; they beguiled, however, the tediousness of this delay by amusing themselves in sporting on the banks of the Nile, which swarm with pigeons. Our author takes occasion here to introduce some general remarks on the state of the country and its inhabitants, which his leisure afforded him an opportunity of contemplating.

'Provisions,' he informs us, "are so extremely abundant and cheap in this part of the country, and in Upper Egypt they are still more so, that we frequently bought one thousand eggs for a dollar, and for the same sum could purchase fourteen fowls and innumerable pigeons; but the fertility of the soil, which produces three crops in the year, clover, corn, and rice, offers a striking contrast to the miserable appearance of the inha

bitants, who are excessively dirty, and in a state of almost perfect nudity. They are, however, at the same time remarka ble for their great patience, the power of bearing fatigue and the faculty they possess of living almost upon nothing.

'Since the expulsion of the Mamelukes, the population of Egypt consists chiefly of Copts, Arabs, and the Turkish or Albanian soldiers, who are employed in the service of the government.

'The Copts are generally supposed to be the descendants of the ancient Egyptians, a conjecture suggested by the similarity of the name, as will appear by the following observations from the Travels. of Pietro della Valle, which afford a most exquisite specimen of such etymological reasoning..

'He is giving a description of Alexandria, and after speaking of Pompey's Pillar, says―

"De plus, j'ai vu la petite église de St. Marc, qui étoit autrefois la Patriarcale, que les Chrétiens, Coftis, c'est à dire les Egyptiens, occupent aujourd'hui où vous remarquerez, s'il vous plait, que ce terme Egittio, qui signifie Egyptien, signifie aussi Guptios; si on en soustrait PE qui est au commencement, et que l'on prononce le & comme anciennement, et la lettre ! comme si c'étoit un V; or, au lieu de Guptios ou Gubti, selon les Arabes, les nôtres disent plus correctement, Cofto."

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But whatever opinion may be adopted of the origin of these Christians of the sect of Eutyches, they are a clever and intriguing race, and are employed by the government in keeping the registers of land and tribute, and generally become the gens d'affairs of the Beys and Cacheffs, which posts, however, they have to dispute with the Jews, who abound in Egypt as in every other country.

With respect to the Arabs, who form the great mass of the population of the country, they are divided into three tribes.

"The pastoral, which appears to be the original race-the Bedouin, who is distinguished by the warlike and independent spirit which he derives from the free and restless life he leads in the desert

and the Fellah, or cultivating Arab, the most civilized and patient, but at the same time the most corrupt and degraded class.

The Turkish and Albanian troops are distributed throughout the country to garrison the different towns, and to levy the miri, or contribution, which they do with every circumstance of cruelty and oppression.'

Of Cairo, or Misr, as it is denominated by the natives, Mr. Legh gives us a succinct description, most of which we have extracted.

'In the castle where the Pacha resides, is the mint, the well of Joseph, 276 feet deep, which is cut out of the soft calcareous rock, and the palace, or hall, attributed, with equal propriety, to the same celebrated personage. It was built by Sultan Saladin, and offers an extraordinary instance of the use of the pointed arch. With respect to the city of Cairo itself, the houses are built of brick, and are remarkable for their extreme height, while the streets are mean and dirty, and so narrow as scarcely to allow two loaded camels to pass. The only part which has any claim to be exempted from this general censure is the place, or square, called Esbquich, into the centre of which the water of the Nile flows at the time of the inundation.

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Among the chief curiosities which attracted our attention, may be ranked the bazaars, of an appearance far superior in splendour to any we had witnessed in our travels in Turkey. Each trade has its allotted quarter, and the display of superb Turkish dresses, costly Damascus swords, ataghans, and every species of eastern luxury and magnificence, formed a most brilliant and interesting spectacle. 'We visited also the slave-market, where, to say nothing of the moral reflections suggested by this traffic in human beings, the senses were offended in the most disagreeable manner, by the excessive state of filthiness in which these miserable wretches were compelled to exist. The population of Cairo has been estimated at between 3 and 400,000, and that of all Egypt at two millions and a half. The inhabitants of the capital are of a most motley description, consisting of Arabs, Copts, Turks, Albanians, Greeks, Syrians, Arminians, Jews, negro slaves from Sennar, and Barbarins, or the natives of the country beyond the Cataracts. These last are in considerable numbers, and, like the Gallegos of Lisbon, are in great estimation for their habits of honest industry.

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Cairo is a place of considerable commerce, and is the metropolis of the trade of Eastern Africa, the chief mart of the slaves who are brought from Abyssinia, Sennar, Darfur, and other parts of Soudan. The caravans which arrive from these countries bring also gold dust, ivory, rhinoceros' horns, ostrich feathers, gums, and various drugs.'

The day after their arrival at Cairo,

the author and his friend, with other gentlemen, paid their respects to the Pacha, by whom they were graciously received.

On the 2d of January Mr. Legh and his companion crossed the Nile to Gizeh, where they passed the night and proceeded the next day to visit the Pyramids in its neighbourhood.

'At the distance of two hours from Gizeh, we found ourselves, on the following morning, at the foot of the largest of these wonderful monuments, the period and object of whose construction have been, for so many ages, the theme of wonder and discussion.

'As we mounted the heap of sand and rubbish which leads to the opening into the Pyramids, and prepared to explore the galleries which conduct to the interior, we had every reason to applaud our prudence in bringing with us a Turkish soldier, as a guard; for it required all his exertions and authority to prevent the entrance of a crowd of importunate Arabs, who are always ready to guide, and, if occasion offers, to rob the traveller whom curiosity may conduct to this celebrated spot.

"The account given by Denon of the interior of the large Pyramid, the only one that has been opened, and indeed which it is practicable to ascend, is so correct and complete, that it would be difficult and quite unnecessary to attempt to add to his description.

'On our return from the galleries, we ascended to the top of the Pyramid, but from the unfavourable state of the weather, it being a rainy misty morning, our exertions were not repaid by the view of the boundless expanse of desert, which is usually seen from that enormous elevation, though the fatigue of reaching the summit considerably exceeded that of climbing the cone of Mount Etna. On our descent we breakfasted at the base of the Pyramid, and after admiring the graceful outline of the Colossal Sphinx, returned to Cairo, which we reached by two o'clock the same day.'

At the time of the arrival of our author, Egypt enjoyed a greater degree of tranquillity than it had known for many years. The present Pacha, Mahomed Ali, who is represented as a man of great talent and extraordinary decision of cha racter, was formerly the captain of a pirate boat in the Archipelago, and owes his elevation to his present rank and power solely to his personal qualities. After the English evacuated Egypt, a misun derstanding ensued between the Turkish and Albanian troops, and the Mamelukes

who had been driven into Upper Egypt, were called in by the latter to assist in deposing the Turkish Pacha. The Mamelukes, in turn, began to lord it over them, and they found it necessary to make an effort to get rid of these oppressors. They attacked Osman Bey Bardissi, the Mameluke chief, with very superior forces, and compelled him to retreat, with few attendants, to Upper Egypt. The choice of the Albanian soldiery then fell upon Mahomed Ali, who had alike distinguished himself by his valour and capacity. 'Since that period,' adds Mr. Legh, the Pacha has not only driven the Mamelukes out of Upper Egypt, but pursued them beyond the Cataracts as far as Ibrim, and compelled them to take refuge in Dongola.

The police of the city of Cairo is also highly creditable to the vigour of his government, and he has so far repressed the disorders of his troops as nearly to verify a promise he had made on his appointment to the Pachalic, that in a few years “you might walk about the streets with both hands full of gold."

During our stay at Cairo we found the Pacha engaged in organizing a large body of troops to act against the Wahabees, who had, in the preceding campaign, nearly annihilated his army in a battle near Jedda.'

For the account of this people, or rather religious sect, we have no room. We shall pass over many remarks in relation to the military history of Mohamed Ali's reign, and his diplomatic connexions, to our author's departure from Cairo on his expedition up the Nile.

The journey from Cairo to Upper Egypt and Nubia, was commenced on the 14th of January, 1813. Whilst at Cairo the travellers were so fortunate as to conciliate the good will of the Pacha, who provided them with a cangia, (boat) for their voyage, and a firman or passport, for their protection. Thus equipped, Mr. Legh and the Rev. Mr. Smelt, set out on their adventure, having engaged Mr. Barthow, an American, who had resided many years in the country, to accompany them, and act as interpreter. Our limits will not allow us, minutely, to follow their course. They did not reach Siout, which has succeeded to Girgeh, as the capital of upper Egypt, till the 26th of January. Here they fell in with Shehk Ibrahim, with whom they had become acquainted in Cairo. He had travelled up the country on asses, and was waiting for a guide to prosecute his journey. Siout is the great mart of the slave trade. In

the journey across the Desert to this place, the drivers take the opportunity afforded by periods of distress, and scarcity of water and provisions, to emasculate their male slaves. It is said not one in three survives this cruel operation. The methods resorted to in order to secure the virginity of the female slaves are scarcely less horrible. On the 28th they reached Antropolis, now called Gaw-elKeber. Here are the ruins of a famous temple. The portico, which is standing, consists of three rows, each of six columns, eight feet in diameter, and with their entablature, sixty-two feet high;→→ four of them have fallen down. Every stone of the building is covered with hieroglyphics. On proceeding up the Nile, Mr. Legh remarks on the wonderful fertility of its banks, and deplores the existence of a tyranny, which by its various exactions does not allow more than a twentieth of the products to be retained by the cultivator of the soil, and thus takes away every incitement to industry. On the Soth they reached Menshieh, the ancient Ptolemais Hermii, of which no vestige remains but the ruins of an old quay. Here whilst at anchor, a Turkish soldier discharged his musket at them for mere

amusement. The ball passed through the hat of a servant, and hit the arm of Mr. Smelt. On applying for redress, for this outrage, to the Cacheff, they were told, that as the Turk was only a passenger on the water as well as themselves, he was not liable to his jurisdiction. On the 2d of February the party left Menshieh and passed Diospolis Parva, the modern How. Just below this place they saw crocodiles for the first time. Whilst opposite How, they experienced a gale of the Kasmin, a violent wind of the Desert, which often overwhelms caravans in the sand. On the morning of the 6th they landed on the plain of Thebes, the city celebrated by Homer for its hundred gates. The cir cumference of the ancient city has been estimated at 27 miles, and it has been said that in the day of its power, it could, upon any emergency, send forth 20,000 warriors at each of its gates. Above this city, and on the western bank, are the Memnonium, the two colossal statues and the remains of Medinet Abou. A fragment of one of these statues, lying among the ruins of the Memnonium, measures 25 feet across the shoulders. From this some idea may be formed of the size of the building it was intended to ornament.

On the 11th of February the travellers reached Essouan, having performed a

journey of 600 miles from Cairo. Here they had an interview with the Shekh, and were encouraged by him to prosecute their journey beyond the Cataracts into the country of the Barabras, the name given to the present inhabitants of Nubia. The boundary of the French expedition in Egypt, is marked on a granite rock a little above the Cataracts. Mr. Legh and his companions remained a few days at Essouan, and employed their time in visiting the islands Elephantina, Phile, and the Cataracts. Elephantina is described as wonderfully picturesque. At the southern extremity of this island are the remains of an Egyptian temple covered with hieroglyphics. Roman relics are found in the same quarter. Eight temples or sanctuaries are crowded together in the small island of Phile, though its length is but 1000 feet, and its breadth 400. They appear to be of various styles of architecture, and were probably built at different periods. It is evident from their present appearance, that it was the Egyptian system to erect immense masses of building at first, and to finish them afterwards, beginning with the sculpture of the hieroglyphics, and then passing to the stucco and painting. This island is supposed to have been the burying place of Osiris.

Of the Cataracts of the Nile a great deal has been written. They are, at this day, very trifling ripples. The descent is only 3 or 4 feet, and that with so little abruptness, that with a moderate breeze a boat will pass up; and boys dive for amusement into the most rapid of the cascades. The range of primitive mountains which forms the barrier between Egypt and Nubia on each side of the Nile, causes this interruption in its channel.

On the 13th the travellers left Essouan to penetrate into Nubia. They were treated with hospitality by the natives, and pursued their route unmolested up the river, principally in a southern direction. Ruins of ancient temples, and not unfrequently of Christian churches, occurred at short intervals. On the 21st they quitted the boat, and procured asses and camels to ride to Dehr, about 14 miles, where was the residence of Hassan Cacheff, who was understood to be the most powerful chief among the Barabras. This prince was engaged in celebrating his marriage, and happened to be about half drunk at the time of the arrival of his visiters. He did not receive them very graciously; however, the next day Mr. Legh was fortunate enough to purchase his friendship with the present of a beau

tiful Damascus sword, valued at 500 piastres. The Cacheff in return presented Mr. Legh with a negro boy, whom Mr. L. eventually took with him to England. This boy on being summoned and informed of his master's intention, approached Mr. Legh, took his hand, kissed it and placed it on his forehead, completing the transfer by this simple ceremony, Our travellers next proceeded to Ibrim, situated on the east side of the hill, at the southern extremity of a ridge of mountains, which for nearly two miles, rise perpendicularly from the Nile, scarcely leaving a path between them and the river. This fortress is now ruined and deserted. The Mamelukes being expelled from Egypt have seized upon Dongola, a considerable kingdom, about 12 or 14 days journey from the second Cataract,and having dispossessed the independent king of that nation, have established and maintain themselves in his capital and country. Their present chief is Osman Bey Bardissi, who is said to have made a vow never to shave his head or beard till he shall return victor to Cairo. Ibrim was the furthest point to the southward that Mr. Legh visited. The company here resolved to retrace their steps, without attempting to penetrate to the second Cataract. They returned to Dehr the same night, and obtained further civilities from the Cacheff by the offering of a watch. He presented them with some provisions, and gratified them by releasing a boy from confinement at their request. The only monument of antiquity at Dehr, is a temple excavated from the solid rock, ornamented with hieroglyphics. A little below Dehr on the western side, are the ruins of what was once a temple and afterwards a Christian church. They are called Amada. The building is nearly buried in the sand.

On the 27th, as they were passing down the river, they were hailed, in Arabic, by two persons in the dress of Arabs, whom they mistook for Mamelukes, and attempted to avoid. But being again hailed and compelled to answer, they discovered, to their joy and astonishment, in one of them their friend Shekh Ibrahim. They received him on board, but after a social repast he rejoined his camels. Mr. Legh says that no one could be better qualified for the enterprise in which he has embarked, than this traveller. His attainments in almost every living tongue, and his talents for observation are above all praise.'

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On the 28th they arrived at Dakki. The Propylon and Temple here are quite

perfect. We must dispense, however, with copying the description of them. Guerfeh Hassan is about 9 miles below Dakki, where is a most stupendous excavated temple. The area is 64 feet in length and 36 in breadth. The first chamber is 46 feet 6 inches long, 35 feet 3 inches wide, and 22 feet 3 inches high. The second chamber is 34 feet 6 inches wide, and 15 feet 6 inches long. They passed into four smaller apartments. The temple contains some gigantic statues of priests, and numerous hieroglyphics. In the third chamber they found an altar and four statues seated on a bench, which, as well as the figures, is cut out of the solid rock. On the 2d of March they visited the ruined temple of Kalashi. We must pass over the account of this, and all other places they noticed, till their return to Essouan. On revisiting Thebes, our travellers were induced to descend into one of the mummy pits that abound in that vicinity. They found it a most disgusting scene, the Arabs having scattered, in every direction, the fragments of the bodies which they had rified of the bituminous substance in which they were embalmed. Not satisfied, however, with their discoveries in this region, they determined, on their arrival at Manfalout, to examine some pits said to contain mummies of the crocodile. The Arabs had a superstitious dread of entering these caverns, but were prevailed on by a reward of 25 piasters, to undertake to be guides. Mr. Legh, Mr. Smelt, and Mr. Barthow, their American companion, with three Arabs, descended into the pit, by a circular aperture, to the depth of 18 feet. They then crept several yards on their hands and knees, when they found themselves in a large chamber about 15 feet high. Here they saw fragments of the mummies of the crocodile, which only stimulated their desire to penetrate further. They advanced, each preceded by an Arab, and after many windings found themselves in the same chamber again. The Arabs were evidently reluctant to proceed. The travellers, however, were resolved to see the end of the adventure. They compelled their guides to resume the search. They came at length to a ditch, which they leaped. The passage they now entered was so contracted that they were obliged to crawl on the ground. They pressed on, but before they had proceeded far in this way, the heat hecame excessive. Mr. Legh tells us he now found his respiration difficult, his head began to ache violently, and he ex

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perienced a distressing sensation of fulness about the heart. They felt that they had gone too far,-but how to return. 'At this moment,' says Mr. Legh,_*the torch of the first Arab went out; I was close to him, and I saw him fall on his side; he uttered a groan-his legs were strongly convulsed, and I heard a rattling noise in his throat-he was dead. Arab behind me, seeing the torch of his companion extinguished, and conceiving he had stumbled, passed me, advanced to his assistance and stooped. I observed · him appear faint, totter and fall in a moment-he also was dead." The explorers then mustered strength to retreat, leaving the third Arab to share the fate of his comrades-though happily he escaped. It was with extreme difficulty that they were able to reach again the mouth of the pit, where they might still have perished of exhaustion and dismay, had not water been poured on them by those they had left on the outside; who made a rope of their turbans and drew them up. Thus, this rash and foolish attempt to discover crocodile mummies, caused the death of two ignorant Arabs; though neither Mr. Legh, nor his Rev. companion, appear to have felt any compunction for the fatal issue of this stupid undertaking. They ought to have known that azotic gas must inevitably exist in a vault of this kind, and however they might choose to risk their own lives, should have forborne to expose those who had no knowledge of their hazard. They were arrested on a charge of murder, but compromised by paying the wives of these unhappy men twelve piasters, or two Spanish dollars a-piece!-though it is probable their countrymen will revenge themselves for an injury, which they attribute to malice, upon the first European that falls into their hands. Thus other lives may probably be lost, in consequence of this inconsiderate and foolhardy proceeding.

After this tragic event the party pursued their journey, without further hindrance or molestation, to Miniet. Here they were met by a courier, who gave such alarming inteligence of the progress of the plague that they deemed it dangerous to proceed, and accordingly took up their residence at this place for several weeks. Destitute of books, they contrived to vary the monotonous tenor of a Turkish life by learning to ride after the method of the country, and in acquiring the use of the djeritt. This afforded employment for the morning. In the evening they generally amused them

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