66

"We found the boats, provisions, &c., in excellent condition, but no vestige of the wreck. After completing in fuel, and other necessaries, we sailed on the 14th, and on the following morning rounded Cape Garry, where our new discoveries commenced, and, keeping the western shore close on board, ran down the coast in a S.W. and W. course, in from 10 to 20 fathoms, until we had passed the latitude of 72° N. in longitude 72° W.; here we found a considerable inlet leading to the westward, the examination of which occupied two days; at this place we were first seriously obstructed by ice, which was now seen to extend from the south cape of the inlet, in a solid mass, round by S. and E. to E.N.E. Owing to this circumstance, the shallowness of the water, the rapidity of the tides, the tempestuous weather, the irregularity of the coast, and the numerous inlets and rocks for which it is remarkable, our progress was no less dangerous than tedious, yet we succeeded in penetrating below the latitude of 70° N., in longitude 92° W., where the land, after having carried us as far east as 90°, took a decided westerly direction, while land at the distance of 40 miles to southward was seen extending east and west. At this extreme point our progress was arrested on the 1st of October by an impenetrable barrier of ice. We, however, found an excellent wintering port, which we named Felix Harbour. Early in January, 1830, we had the good fortune to establish a friendly intercourse with a most interesting consociation of natives, who, being insulated by nature, had never before communicated with strangers; from them we gradually obtained the important information that we had already seen the continent of America, that about 40 miles to the S.W. there were two great seas, one to the west, which was divided from that to the east by a narrow strait or neck of land. The verification of this intelligence either way, on which our future operations so materially depended, devolved on Commander Ross, who volunteered this service early in April, and accompanied by one of the mates, and guided by two of the natives, proceeded to the spot, and found that the north land was connected to the south by two ridges of high land, 15 miles in breadth, but, taking into account a chain of fresh-water lakes which occupied the valleys between, the dry land which actually separates the two oceans is only five miles. This extraordinary isthmus was subsequently visited by myself, when Commander Ross proceeded minutely to survey the sea-coast, to the southward of the isthmus leading to the westward, which he succeeded in tracing to the 990, or to 150 miles of Cape Turnagain of Franklin, to which point the land, after leading him into the 70° of N. latitude, trended directly: during the same journey he also surveyed 30 miles of the adjacent coast, or that to the north of the isthmus, which, by also taking a westerly direction, formed the termination of the western sea into a gulf. The rest of this season was employed in tracing the sea-coast south of the isthmus leading to the eastward, which was done so as to leave no doubt that it joined, as the natives had previously informed us, to Ockullee, and the land forming Repulse Bay. It was also determined that there was no passage to the westward for 30 miles to the northward of our position.

66

This summer, like that of 1818, was beautifully fine, but extremely unfavourable for navigation, and our object being now to try a more northern latitude, we waited with anxiety for the disruption of the ice, but in vain, and our utmost endeavours did not succeed in retracing our steps more than four miles, and it was not until the middle of November that we succeeded in cutting the vessel into a place of security, which we named Sheriffs' Harbour. I may here mention that we named the newly-discovered continent to the southward Boothia, as also the isthmus, the peninsula to the north, and the eastern sea, after my worthy friend Felix Booth, Esq., the truly patriotic citizen of London, who, in the most disinterested manner, enabled me to equip this expedition in a superior style.

"The last winter was in temperature nearly equal to the means of what had been experienced on the four preceding voyages, but the winters of

1830 and 1831, set in with a degree of violence hitherto beyond record; the thermometer sunk to 92° below the freezing point, and the average of the year was 10° below the preceding; but notwithstanding the severity of the summer, we travelled across the country to the west sea by a chain of lakes, 30 miles north of the isthmus, when Commander Ross succeeded in surveying 50 miles more of the coast leading to the N.W., and, by tracing the shore to the northward of our position, it was also fully proved that there could be no passage below the 71°.

"This autumn we succeeded in getting the vessel only fourteen miles to the northward, and as we had not doubled the Eastern Cape, all hope of saving the ship was at an end, and put quite beyond possibility by another very severe winter; and having only provisions to last us to the 1st of June, 1833, dispositions were accordingly made to leave the ship in her present port, which (after her) was named Victory Harbour. Provisions and fuel being carried forward in the spring, we left the ship on the 29th of May, 1832, for Fury Beach, being the only chance left of saving our lives. Owing to the very rugged nature of the ice, we were obliged to keep either upon or close to the land, making the circuit of every bay, thus increasing our distance of 200 miles by nearly one-half; and it was not until the 1st of July that we reached the beach, completely exhausted by hunger and fatigue.

"A hut was speedily constructed, and the boats, three of which had been washed off the beach, but providentially driven on shore again, were repaired during this month; but the unusual heavy appearance of the ice afforded us no cheering prospect until the 1st of August, when in three boats we reached the ill-fated spot where the Fury was first driven on shore, and it was not until the 1st of September we reached Leopold South Island, now established to be the N.E. point of America, in latitude 73° 56', and longitude 90° W. From the summit of the lofty mountain on the promontory we could see Prince Regent's Inlet, Barrow's Strait, and Lancaster Sound, which presented one impenetrable mass of ice, just as I had seen it in 1818. Here we remained in a state of anxiety and suspense which may be easier imagined than described. All our attempts to push through were vain. At length we were forced, by want of provisions and the approach of a very severe winter, to return to Fury Beach, where alone there remained wherewith to sustain life; there we arrived on the 7th of October, after a most_fatiguing and laborious march, having been obliged to leave our boats at Batty Bay. Our habitation, which consisted of a frame of spars, 32 feet by 16 feet, covered with canvass, was, during the month of November, enclosed, and the roof covered with snow from four feet to seven feet thick, which being saturated with water when the temperature was 15 degrees below zero, immediately took the consistency of ice, and thus we actually became the inhabitants of an iceberg during one of the most severe winters hitherto recorded; our sufferings, aggravated by want of bedding, clothing, and animal food, need not be dwelt upon. Mr. C. Thomas, the carpenter, was the only man who perished at this beach, but three others, besides one who had lost his foot, were reduced to the last stage of debility, and only 13 of our number were able to carry provisions in seven journeys, of 62 miles each, to Batty Bay.

We left Fury Beach on the 8th of July, carrying with us three sick men who were unable to walk, and in six days we reached the boats, where the sick daily recovered. Although the spring was mild, it was not until the 15th of August that we had any cheering prospect. A gale from the westward having suddenly opened a lane of water along shore, in two days we reached our former position, and from the mountain we had the satisfaction of seeing clear water almost directly across Prince Regent's Inlet, which we crossed on the 17th, and took shelter from a storm twelve miles to the eastward of Cape York. The next day, when the gale abated, we crossed Admiralty Inlet, and were detained six days on the coast by a strong north-east wind. On the 25th we crossed Navy Board Inlet, and on the fol

lowing morning, to our inexpressible joy, we descried a ship in the offing becalmed, which proved to be the Isabella, of Hull, the same ship which I commanded in 1818. At noon we reached her, when her enterprising commander, who had in vain searched for us in Prince Regent's Inlet, after giving us three cheers, received us with every demonstration of kindness and hospitality which humanity could dictate. I ought to mention also that Mr. Humphreys, by landing me at Possession Bay, and subsequently on the west coast of Baffin's Bay, afforded me an excellent opportunity of concluding my survey, and of verifying my former chart of that coast.

"I now have the pleasing duty of calling the attention of their Lordships to the merit of Commander Ross, who was second in the direction of this expedition. The labours of this officer, who had the departments of astronomy, natural history, and surveying, will speak for themselves in language beyond the ability of my pen; but they will be duly appreciated by their Lordships, and the learned bodies of which he is a member, and who are already well acquainted with his acquirements.

"My steady and faithful friend, Mr. William Thom, of the Royal Navy, who was formerly with me in the Isabella, besides his duty as third in command, took charge of the meteorological journal, the distribution and economy of provisions, and to his judicious plans and suggestions must be attributed the uncommon degree of health which our crew enjoyed; and as two out of the three who died in the four years and a half were cut off early in the voyage, by diseases not peculiar to the climate, only one man can be said to have perished. Mr. M'Diarmid, the surgeon, who had been several voyages to these regions, did justice to the high recommendation I received of him; he was successful in every amputation and operation which he performed, and wonderfully so in his treatment of the sick; and I have no hesitation in adding that he would be an ornament to his Majesty's service.

"Commander Ross, Mr. Thom, and myself, have, indeed, been serving without pay; but, in common with the crew, have lost our all, which I regret the more, because it puts it totally out of my power adequately to remunerate my fellow-sufferers, whose case I cannot but recommend for their Lordships' consideration. We have, however, the consolation that the results of this expedition have been conclusive, and to science highly important, and may be briefly comprehended in the following words:-The discovery of the Gulf of Boothia, the continent and isthmus of Boothia Felix, and a vast number of islands, rivers, and lakes; the undeniable establishment that the north-east point of America extends to the 74th degree of north latitude; valuable observations of every kind, but particularly on the magnet; and, to crown all, have had the honour of placing the illustrious name of our most gracious Sovereign William IV. on the true position of the magnetic pole.

"I cannot conclude this letter, Sir, without acknowledging the important advantages we obtained from the valuable publications of Sir Edward Parry and Sir John Franklin, and the communications kindly made to us by these distinguished oflicers before our departure from England. But the glory of this enterprise is entirely due to HIM, whose divine favour has been most especially manifested towards us-who guided and directed all our stepswho mercifully provided, in what we deemed a calamity, His effectual means of our preservation; and who, even after the devices and inventions of man had utterly failed, crowned our humble endeavours with complete success. "I have, &c.,

"JOHN Ross, Captain R. N."

"To Captain the Hon. George Elliot, &c.,

"Secretury, Admiralty."

NUMERICAL AND STATISTICAL VIEW OF THE ARMY.

THE British army, at this moment, is estimated at 109,139 men.
It consists of 26 regiments of cavalry,

7 battalions of foot guards,

103 battalions of infantry.

7 colonial corps,

The distribution is as follows:

Rank and file, 21,634, Great Britain.

23,074, Ireland.

31,700, abroad, exclusive of the East Indies.

17,777, East Indies.

The following statement shows the years when the infantry regiments of the line returned from foreign service, and, consequently, the order in which they may be expected to go abroad.

1827. 21st foot, St. Vincents; 50th, Jamaica; 70th, Canada; 76th, Canada; 22d, Jamaica,

1828. 64th, Gibraltar.

1829. 30th, Madras; 47th, Bengal; 59th, Bengal; 60th, 2d battalion, Berbice; 68th, Canada; 83d, Ceylon.

1830. 28th, Corfu; 43d, Gibraltar; 74th, Bermuda.

1831. 1st foot, 2d battalion, Madras; 14th, Bengal; 27th, Barbadoes; 52d, Halifax, N. S.; 80th, Cephalonia; 81st, Bermuda; 85th, Malta; 89th, Madras; 90th, Corfu; 91st, Jamaica.

1832. 18th, Corfu; 33d, Jamaica; 35th, Barbadoes; 82d, Mauritius. 1833. 40th, Bombay; 46th, Madras.

The regiments of 1827 and 1828 are now under orders for foreign service, viz.: 21st to New South Wales; 50th to New South Wales; 70th to Cape of Good Hope; 76th to Barbadoes; 92d to Gibraltar; 64th to Jamaica.

The corps which have been the longest period on foreign service are

1817, 48th foot; 1818, 38th foot; 1819, 11th dragoons, 13th dragoons; 16th foot, 20th foot, 45th foot, 54th foot; 1821, 6th foot, 55th foot; 1822, 4th dragoons, 16th lancers, 13th foot, 41st foot, 44th foot, 49th foot, all in the East Indies.

1821, 51st foot, Corfu.

1823, 12th and 23d foot, Gibraltar; 42d, Malta; and 93d, Barbadoes. 1824, 71st, Bermuda; 77th, Jamaica; 94th, Malta; 95th, Corfu; 96th, Halifax, N. S.

Of these regiments the 77th and 93d are ordered to return home.

The average period for regiments remaining at home is five years; and for abroad ten years, with the exception of the East Indies, where the period is twenty.

OFFICIAL RETURN OF THE NAVAL FORCE OF GREAT BRITAIN ON THE 1ST OF OCTOBER, 1833.

COMMISSIONERS for executing the office of Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland: The Right Hon. Sir James Robert George Graham, Bart., F.R.S.; Sir Thomas Masterman Hardy, Bart, G.C.B.; the Hon. George Heneage Lawrence Dundas; Sir Samuel John Brooke Pechell, Bart., K.C.H.; Henry Labouchere, Esq.; Maurice Frederick Fitzharding Berkeley, Esq.

FLAG OFFICERS OF THE ROYAL NAVY,

Admiral of the Fleet.-Charles Edmund Nugent, Esq.
Admirals. Red, 10; white 16; blue 18.-Total, 44.

Vice-Admirals.-Red, 16; white, 17; blue, 19.-Total, 52,

Rear-Admirals.-Red, 17; white, 20; blue, 27.-Total, 64.

Rear-Admirals retired on half-pay, 33; Captains on retired half-pay, 10. -Total, 43.

Captains, 786; of whom are on the half-pay list of 14s. 6d. per diem, 100; on the half-pay of 12s. 6d. per diem, 149; on the ordinary half-pay list, 537. -Total, 786.

Commanders.-877; of whom are on the half-pay of 10s. per diem, 150; on the ordinary half-pay list, 727.-Total, 877.

Retired Commanders under his Majesty's Order in Council (1816), 100; retired Commanders under his Majesty's Order in Council (1830), 179.— Total, 279.

Lieutenants. - Poor Military Knights of Windsor, 7; on full pay, 2353; on the half-pay of 78. per diem, 119; on the half-pay of 6s. per diem, 700. -Total, 3172.

Masters. Superannuated, 15.-For Service.-On full pay, 187; on the half-pay of 78. per diem, 100; on the half-pay of 6s. per diem, 200.—Total,

487.

Pursers. On full pay, 325; on the half-pay of 5s. per diem, 100; on the half-pay of 4s. per diem, 200.-625.

Medical Officers.-Physicians, 12; Surgeons retired, 43; Surgeons for service, 706; Assistant Surgeons, 313; Dispensers of Hospitals, 11; Hospital Mates, 3.- Total, 1088.

Chaplains. Retired list, 95; Active list, 38.-Total, 63.

The number of vessels in the British Navy amounts to 557, viz., fourteen of 120 guns each: five of 110; three of 108; twelve of 84; ten of 80: nine of 78; six of 76; sixty-two of 74; sixty-two of 46; fifteen of 50; seven of 52; twenty of 42; twenty-two steam-vessels; the others carry from 4 to 30 guns each.

The fleet employs 20,000 sailors, and 9000 Royal Marines, composed of 102 companies.

First Division.-Chatham, 26 companies.

Second Division.—Portsmouth, 29 companies.

Third Division.-Plymouth, 27 companies.

Fourth Division.-Woolwich, 17 companies.

Royal Marine Artillery, 2 companies. Head-quarters, Portsmouth.

GENERAL ORDER.

Dublin, 26th September, 1833. SIR HUSSEY VIVIAN has the greatest satisfaction in publishing to the troops in Ireland, the accompanying expression of the Lord Lieutenant's approbation of their conduct and services, on the occasion of his Excellency's departure from this country:

"The Lord Lieutenant cannot quit these shores without reiterating to the army of Ireland the high sense he entertains of its admirable and truly soldier-like conduct. "To the Lieutenant-General commanding the Forces, he needs hardly express his approbation and esteem-a feeling for him won by forty years' knowledge of his excellent qualities as a soldier and a man.

"Of the zeal, the intelligence, and the assiduity of the General Officers and Staff of the army, he cannot speak in terms of too high praise; and he desires that the officers, and non-commissioned officers and soldiers, as well as the army now present, as of those corps which have served here during the government of the Lord Lieutenant, will be assured that he feels he cannot too highly appreciate and applaud their excellent conduct.

"Their patience, firmness, and forbearance, (under circumstances that, it may reasonably be hoped, will never again occur,) whilst they have salutarily supported the administration of the laws, have, with their mild demeanour, won the approbation and applause of all parties.

"He takes leave of the army with deep regret. He would, at all times, rejoin it with confidence and pleasure.

(Signed)

" ANGLESEY."

September 25, 1833.