CHAPTER I.

JOURNEY FROM WESTPORT TO THE RIVER HUERFANO.

OUR party was composed of twelve persons, viz:—

E. F. BEALE, Superintendent of Indian Affairs in California. G. HARRIS HEAP.

ELISHA RIGGS, of Washington.

WILLIAM RIGGS,

WILLIAM ROGERS,

HENRY YOUNG.

J. WAGNER.

J. COSGROVE.

May 10, 1853. The train started from Westport in the afternoon, with directions to proceed to Council Grove, and await our arrival there. Mr. Beale accompanied it a few miles into the prairie, and returned after dark.

With a view to making a rapid trip, we had dispensed with everything that was not absolutely necessary for our wants; and our outfit, therefore, was of the simplest description.

May 15. All our arrangements being completed, we started from Westport at 3 P. M. A party of ladies and gentlemen accompanied us a few miles into the prairie, and drank a stirrup cup" of champagne to the success of our journey. The weather was bright and clear, and, after a pleasant ride of twelve miles over prairies enamelled with flowers, we encamped at thirty minutes after six P. M. on Indian Creek, a tributary of the Kanzas, fringed with a thick growth of cottonwoods and willows. Day's march, 12 miles.

May 16. Moved camp at 5 A. M. The morning was cloudy. George Simms, who superintended the culinary department, procured milk from a neighboring Caw Indian's hut, which, with dried buffalo tongue, enabled us to make a hearty breakfast. An excellent and well-beaten road, as broad and smooth as a turnpike, led us through a green rolling prairie. Although we saw many prairie hens and plovers, we were too impatient to overtake our train to waste time in shooting them. Arrived at 9 hours 30 min. A. M. at Bull Creek, twenty-three miles, where we found two log-huts, good water and grass, and some cottonwood and willow trees.

After a short rest, we continued on to Garfish Camp, twentytwo miles, over a rolling prairie, covered with rich herbagebut noticed little timber. Passed many water-holes. The weather was cool, with a pleasant southerly wind. Around our encampment the grass was knee-high, but no wood was found nearer than half a mile; a few dry bushes, eked out with "buffalo chips," sufficed to prepare our supper. The Santa Fé mail stage was stopping here when we arrived, and proceeded on its way to Independence shortly after. Day's march, 45 miles; total distance from Westport, 57 miles.

May 17. The morning was ushered in with the wind from the southward, ladened with heavy clouds, and accompanied by occasional showers of rain. Mr. Beale went in search of a mule, which had drawn her picket-pins in the night, and taken the "back track” towards Westport; but, after a ride of seven miles he was compelled to relinquish the pursuit. Numerous prairie wolves surrounded the camp all night. Arrived at "One Hundred and Ten" at 45 minutes after 10 A. M. The wind veered to southeast, still accompanied by rain, and the weather was cold and unpleasant. "One Hundred and Ten" is so named from its being at that distance from Fort Leavenworth. This hamlet is composed of a few log-houses situated in a hollow, near a small stream shaded by cottonwoods. The inhabitants are Shawnees, but at this time nearly all the men were absent; the women appeared neat and respectable. Prairie hens and plovers were numerous; but we were still too near the settlements for nobler game. Continued our route at 1 P. M.; the road still led over a beautiful rolling country, the grass good, and occasional pools of water. At 4 P. M. encamped

at Dragoon Creek, after a ride of twelve miles. It is a small brook, well shaded by cottonwoods and oaks, and grass grows luxuriantly on its banks. A few Caw Indians at this place came into our camp hoping to exchange horses with us, and were quite disappointed at our refusal to trade. They were fine-looking men, well proportioned, and athletic. The chief, whose portrait I offered to sketch, seemed delighted with the idea, and hastened to his camp for his rifle, which he was more anxious to have correctly represented than himself. He presented us a paper with a very complacent air, evidently thinking that it contained strong recommendations of his tribe, and himself in particular. It was written by some mischievous emigrant, who advised all travellers to beware of this great chief, who was none other than a great rascal, and great beggar. We did not undeceive him as to its contents, and he left us, seeming perfectly satisfied with the impression he had created. Day's travel, 35 miles; distance from Westport, 92 miles.

May 18. We had a severe thunder and rain storm, which lasted all night; the wind blew strong from the southward, and the lightning was incessant and vivid. One of those balls of fire which sometimes descend to the earth during violent thunderstorms, fell and exploded in our midst. The mules, already terrified by the constant peals of thunder, became frantic with fear; and when this vivid light was seen, accompanied with a report like the crack of a rifle, neither picket-pins nor hobbles could hold them; they rushed through the camp overturning everything in their course-their ropes and halters lashing right and left, and increasing their panic. They were stopped by an elbow of the creek, where they were found a few minutes after, huddled together, and quivering with fear. It was fortunate for us that they did not take to the open prairie, as we would have had much difficulty in recovering them. This was our first experience in a stampede, and to prevent a recurrence of such accidents we after this placed the animals in the centre, and, dividing our party into twos and threes, slept in a circle around them. By using such precautions we were never subjected to this annoyance again, except once, after entering the country of the Utahs. At dawn, the wind veered to the westward, and blew very cold. Before sunrise, we resumed our journey, and in twelve miles crossed a fine clear stream, and in

fourteen miles reached another. A ride of twenty-five miles brought us to a hollow, where, finding good water, we encamped. Resting but a short time we continued our journey, and in ten miles, over a rich rolling country, arrived at Council Grove, where our train was waiting for us.

Council Grove is situated in a rich grassy bottom, well watered, and heavily timbered. It is a settlement of about twenty frame and log houses, and scattered up and down the stream are several Indian villages. At a short distance from the road is a large and substantially built Methodist mission-house, constructed of limestone, which is found here in inexhaustible quantities. This stone is excellent as a building material, and lies in strata of from six inches to three feet in thickness: lintels and arches are made of it as it is extracted from the quarries, which extend for fifteen miles up the stream. Day's march, 32 miles; total distance, 122 miles.

May 19. We now considered ourselves fairly embarked on our journey, for until leaving Council Grove we felt as if we were still within the boundaries of civilization. Even the huts which we passed occasionally on the road, though inhabited only by Indians, removed that sense of utter loneliness which impresses the traveller upon the boundless prairie. Mr. Beale had selected only such men as were inured by long habit to the privations and hardships which we expected to encounter. One, the Delaware, was an experienced hunter, and to his unerring rifle we owed, during the journey, many abundant repasts, when otherwise we would have been upon short allowance. While at Council Grove, we had some mules shod, and the provisions that had been consumed on the journey from Westport, were replaced. The animals having been well packed, and our arms and ammunition inspected, we bid adieu to Council Grove in the morning, and after a pleasant ride of seventeen miles encamped near water in a hollow on the roadside. The weather was fine, a cool breeze refreshing the air. Some prairie hens, ducks, and plovers were shot. In the afternoon, after travelling fifteen miles, we encamped near the "Lost Spring." The grass along the road was good, and we passed several pools which probably dry up in midsummer.

Since our departure from Westport we had seen many graves on each side of the road, and some of the camping-places had

the appearance of village graveyards. The cholera raged on the plains a few years ago, occasioning a fearful mortality, and these mounds remain to attest its ravages. Through carelessness or haste, they were often too shallow to protect their contents from the wolves, and it frequently happened that he who in the morning was hastening forward in health and spirits towards the golden bourn, was ere night a mangled corpse, his bones scattered, by the savage hunger of the wolf, over the plain.

It was now deemed prudent to keep guard, as we were approaching Indian hunting-grounds, and were liable at any moment to meet a predatory band. Eight of the party kept watch, each man being relieved every hour. Day's march, 32 miles; distance from Westport, 154 miles.

May 20. The night was cold and frosty. Started soon after sunrise, and, after travelling sixteen miles, encamped on Cottonwood Creek; a pretty brook, lined with cottonwood and oak trees, and alive with small fish, some of which were caught with a hook and line.

Resumed our march at noon, and travelled over a flat uninteresting country with little water. This day saw antelope for the first time. Met Major Rucker, and Lieutenants Heath and Robinson on their way from New Mexico to Fort Leavenworth. They informed us that at a short distance in advance of us were large bands of buffalo. Encamped, as the sun was setting, on a brook called Turkey Creek, where we found an abundant supply of water, but no wood. We here overtook Mr. Antoine Leroux, on his way to Taos, and considered ourselves fortunate in securing the services of so experienced a guide. He did not join us at once, as he was desirous of seeing his train safely over one or two bad places in advance of us, but promised to overtake us in a day or two. Day's march, 35 miles; distance from Westport, 189 miles.

May 21. Raised camp at sunrise, and after a ride of thirty miles stopped to noon on the Little Arkansas. This stream is difficult to cross during a continuance of heavy rains, but has little water in it at this season. Passed good water and grass in twelve miles from last camp.

We were all on the lookout for buffaloes. It was five days since we had left Westport, and as yet our eyes had not been gladdened by the sight of even one. Hoping to fall in with