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troop of strolling comedians. She proposed to the leading man of this company to repair the theatre at her own expense, and to divide with him the profits resulting from a benefit she intended to give. As a matter of course, this offer was accepted with joy. In a few days the theatre was thoroughly cleansed and repaired, the performance took place in due time; Alboni on the first night so charmed her hearers, that her name spread like wildfire through Venice, and the little theatre was crammed to suffocation every night. In one month the artiste and the manager divided forty thousand francs."

It is very strange that such stories as the above never become known in England until the artiste has become famous for a long time, and until they can offer but little interest to the reader and be of no possible service to the singer. We are inclined to doubt the authenticity of such late-remembered anecdotes.-Musical World.

FANNY ELSSLER AND THE POPE.

(From "La Belgique Musicale.")

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which can compromise the dignity of our church
or the safety of our state. "Holy Father," said
the spokesman, we are ready to lay aside all
thoughts of this ovation, if your heart would be
saddened for one moment at our act; for, if we
love art most dearly, and pay it homage as the
expression of what is beautiful in nature, we
love you above all things."
"Present your
crown of gold, my children, if that will gratify
you. However," added the Pope, smiling for
the first time since the commencement of the
audience, "you will permit me to remark that
you have not been very happy in the selection of
your offering." "How so, most Holy Father?"
"Under the circumstances, I should have pre-
ferred making choice of a garland, a bouquet,
or something of the kind. In my ignorance as
a priest, I had thought up to the present time
that a crown was designed for the head, and not
for the feet."

At the moment when Fanny Elssler was being presented with the crown of gold at the Argentina Theatre, the Pope's Almoner received the sum of one thousand crowns in specie for the poor.

FINE ARTS.

Fanny Elssler was engaged lately at the Argentina Theatre, at Rome. The Romans, frantically enthusiastic about her, resorted every evening in immense crowds to the theatre to THE NICHOLSIAN BROOCH.-This style of witness her miraculous choregraphic feats, and, ornament is a curious instance of feminine taste each evening, under the steps of the celebrated and ingenuity. It is a brooch, painted so as to artiste, the stage was converted into a garden imitate a cameo, in a peculiar style, which gives enamelled with flowers. Her numerous ad- all the sharpness and bold relief of a raised mirers, desirous of presenting her with a tan- surface. It is the invention of a lady-Miss gible proof of their admiration, got up a sub- Nichols, of Upper Belgrave-place-and well scription, which, in a brief space of time, was merits to be publicly known and appreciated. signed by some of the highest and most influ-To all who really estimate beauty of drawing, ential names in Rome. The sum of twelve thousand francs was realized. This was the amount that a first-rate jeweller had demanded to manufacture a golden crown twined with sil-course, too valuable as works of art ever to be ver foliage.

The subscribers determined to present their testimonial to Fanny Elssler the evening before her departure for Florence: but just on the very day of the intended presentation, they inquired among themselves whether this demonstration would be pleasing to his Holiness the Pope. "Let us do nothing without consulting him," said one. "Let us go this instant to the Quirinal," shouted several voices. Instantly they all set out for the Papal palace. Pius, informed of their approach, received them with great kindness. Nevertheless, the lavish expenditure of twelve thousand francs, and the consideration of how much good that sum would do to the poor, withheld the smile from his lips. "Most Holy Father," said the chief of the deputation, "may it please your Holiness, we are about to offer Farny Elssler a crown of gold, and we are only awaiting the consent of your Holiness." "You have no need of my approbation, my children," returned the Pope: "I see nothing in your gift

one of these imitations of the antique would be far preferable to the badly-designed heads which are sold as common cameos; the best being, of

reduced to the price of ornaments in general. And moreover, Miss Nichols takes miniatureportraits in the style of cameos, which seem to us much superior, in correctness of drawing, to many of the staring red and white likenesses which affectionate mammas and devoted spouses wear as brooches. Those ladies who like these portrait-ornaments, which gratify at once feminine vanity in dress and the higher feeling of domestic affection, ought certainly to give their preference to the Nicholsian brooch. And moreover, those who sympathize with the deserving efforts of one of their own sex, whose design and execution of these pretty ornaments shew a true talent for art, although the branch be lowly, ought to help forward the clever inventor.

FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER.

This is a month in which Fashion gives more than usual licence to her fair votaries with regard to their dress; for, if the weather is tolerably fine, the out-door toilette usually partakes a little both of summer and winter costume. As yet, indeed, chapeaux and capotes have been of the former description, but those of crape tulle and lace are now entirely confined to evening dress. Fancy straw is at last laid aside; it is generally supposed that it is quite out of favour, and that having become so very common, it would not be tolerated next season. Such is not my opinion; no doubt, if it is revived it will be in a new style, with an intermixture of other materials, and of different patterns; but I think it is too light, pretty, and appropriate to the summer season, to be abandoned, at least for some time. Paille d'Italie is in very great request, and will continue so for some time; but the garniture is, with few exceptions, of an autumnal kind. Several are trimmed with velvet of full colours, as groseille, bishop's violet, or golden brown. I have seen some with velvet coques under the brim, intermixed in a pretty and very new style with blonde lace; the exterior was decorated with straw-coloured feathers, shaded in the colour of the velvet. Others have the interior of the brim trimmed with close coques of coloured velvet; there are four or five placed low on each side; and the exterior with an intermixture of black lace and velvet flowers; the latter are mostly exotics, with deep orange hearts, and the leaves of a deep red or blue, corresponding with the colour of the coques. In some instances the garniture is composed of orange ribbon, shaded from the lightest to the deepest tinge of the colour, and a very long flat ostrich feather to correspond; it is attached by a chou of ribbon, with floating ends on one side, and droops over to the other; the interior is trimmed with small velvet flowers in full colours. Paille de riz still preserves its vogue, but it is also trimmed in an autumnal style with velvet, velvet flowers, or shaded feathers; but the colours are lighter than those employed for Italian straw. Rose colour, emerald green, and pale orange, are the hues employed for the vel

vet;

the foliage of the flowers is in different shades of green, some very dark; the feathers are very short, and arranged in bouquets of two or three. Silk chapeaux and capotes are more in request than they have been during the summer; the latter are always of light colours, except for early morning negligé. My fair readers will find in my first plate one of the prettiest models that have yet appeared. The chapeaux are usually of full colours, rose, blue of a bright but very full shade, and bishop's violet; the

trimmings are composed of black lace, velvet flowers, and feathers. I am assured that velvet and black lace will be in the highest vogue, not only for the trimmings of chapeaux, but for those of robes and pardessus during the ensuing season.

Satin chapeaux and capotes will appear this season earlier than usual; the colours of the latter will be generally light; straw colour, of the delicate shade given in our first plate, pink, blue, and white, will be preferred. Pearl grey, emerald green, groseille vert lumière, and red lilac, are expected to be most in vogue for satin chapeaux. There is no doubt that feathers will predominate in the garnitures, and our plumassiers have already produced several elegant novelties. I may cite among the most remarkable the hérons de coq, the plumets de coq, glace de paen, shaded aigrettes, composed of the beards of marabouts, willow plumes shaded, spotted, and tipt in the greatest variety, and a crowd of other fancy feathers. The flowers will be those of autumn, or those rich tropical flowers and foliage so fashionable during the two last winters, with several other exotics which our botanists have since introduced. While I am speaking of garnitures, I must not forget the new autumnal ribbons. Some are of dead grounds, shaded with satin stripes; others are broche in satin; the colours are all of a very striking kind, and I observe that orange is very predominant, either alone or intermixed with other colours. Later in the season a mixture of black and orange will be very fashionable in the materials of dresses, and also in passementerie: in short, it is already decided that this colour is one of those that will enjoy the honours of the season.

There is nothing yet decided as to the changes that will take place in the forms of chapeaut and capotes. I have every reason to believe that the alterations will be trifling, except as regards the garnitures, which it is certain will be ar ranged in a very novel manner. Some chapeaux that I have just seen are of pink, or green satin; the brims, quite as small as usual, are entirely covered with four rows of ribbon, the edges open in lace patterns, or else watered; this ribbon is coquillé in such a manner as to form in each arch a series of quills, which has a very novel effect. Some half-dress capotes, intended for the few fine days we may yet expect, are composed of gros de Naples; the ground is favrette, striped à mille raies with white; they are drawn shapes, the casings put very close, giving the appearance of a number of small plaits. Some of these capotes, composed of white, pink, or mineral green satin, and covered

with tulle bouillonne of the same colour, will be much in request for morning visits, exhibitions, &c. &c.

Although a great number of pardessus are expected to appear in the course of October, there is no doubt that the Cashmere will reign supreme during that and probably the next month. Those with blue, green, and Turkish yellow grounds, with rich oriental patterns in vivid colours, or else rosaces of great beauty and variety, will be principally adopted for the first style of carriage, or, what is with us the same thing, public promenade dress, visites, &c., &c., particularly the long shawls. Square shawls with black grounds, though they may be adopted for the public promenade, will be more generally employed for négligé. At present, and indeed during the next month, China crape shawls are enjoying and will enjoy a good deal of favour: they have a rich appearance, and are sufficiently warm for the demi-saison. I have no observations to make on these shawls, as I fully described them in one of my preceding letters. Cashmere scarfs, so much in vogue in the earlier part of the spring, are again very extensively seen; and velvet scarfs, lined with white satin, and trimmed with swan's-down, have also made their appearance. This light and elegant fur, formerly so great a favourite in half-season dress, but which latterly has been adopted only for trimming evening wraps, seems now likely to resume its ancient vogue. I have seen, besides the scarfs just mentioned, several visites trimmed with it: some were composed of richcorded silk, others of levantine; the colours are green, French grey, and bishop's violet; they are larger than those worn in the summer, and with some slight modifications; but those are really so slight, they cannot well be described: they are half wadded.

that I have yet seen; it is a mantle and hood composed entirely of a single piece, without any seam; it drapes very gracefully, has really a noble appearance, and is also very comfortable. The Lola Montes is calculated for half-dress only; it is a pretty little autumnal cloak, composed of blue or pink satin, ornamented with a black velvet net with a very deep fringe, formed of black velvet, and silk corresponding with the colour of the cloak.

Muslins, bareges, and other light materials for promenade robes, are not yet laid aside; but unless the weather is unusually warm, silks only will be seen in the promenade during the month of October. The dresses now made up for autumn are composed of silks only, or in some instances Cashmere: the redingote form is decidedly predominant. The corsages are quite high at the back: the number of those that are closed or open in front seems pretty equal. There is as yet no alteration in forms; but several new trimmings have been embroidered in passementerie: I have noticed particularly some of a flat kind, and also some fancy buttons. The latter are frequently disposed in a double row, connected by braiding down the front of the corsage and skirt. If the corsage is partially open, they ornament the lower part of it; and a revers of the pelerine form extended round the corsage, and descending in robings down the front of the skirt at each side, is generally edged with one of the different kinds of passementerie that imitate lace.

I have been assured, from good authority, that a reduction will take place this winter: nevertheless, I do not believe it: I have no doubt that an attempt of the kind will be made, but I am convinced it will not succeed. I think it is either two or three years since a similar attempt was made, but it totally failed.

Dresses, whether of the robe or redingote form, are now made a little shorter in front; but even for the promenade they are long enough to trail on the ground behind. In in-door dress they are made still longer, and those for dinner and evening costume have a demi-train. If a promenade dress is made in the robe form, it is Some rich silks, intended for pardessus, will frequently without any trimming round the borappear in the course of October; what success der; indeed, I think these dresses are now in a they may have is as yet uncertain; but three ma- majority for the promenade. The trimming, if terials that will assuredly be the most in request there is one, must be either flounces or tucks. are already decided: velvet, satin, and Cash-The width of skirts is not at all diminished; but mere, which have now for several seasons borne the palm, will lose nothing of their attraction. Some models in each have already appeared. We have the manteau de Girondins, so named from the history of the Girandins of Lamartine; though for what reason it would be difficult to tell, since there is certainly nothing in common between the party of the Gironde and a lady's cloak. Had it been a gentleman's, indeed, we might have fancied it was copied from that worn by the heroes of the party. It is a very ample satin cloak, either black or of some dark colour, wadded, lined with sarsenet, and trimmed with passementerie: it is a quiet, gentlewomanly, and very comfortable mantle, with nothing striking in its appearance. The manteau Reine Marguerite is composed of velvet, and lined with satin; it is of a small size, sitting close at the top, and advantageous to the shape: it is calculated for belles of middle size, or even under middle size. The mantel Mahomet, composed of Cashmere, is the most striking novelty

No new materials have yet appeared for robes, with the exception of one intended for travelling dresses, and robes de chambre; the ground is grey woollen chiné; the pattern is a large square of red or orange silk, or else deep blue satiné. If made for a travelling dress, the form should be a corsage amazone, quite high and close, but not so long in the waist as they have been. The sleeve long, tight, and closed at the hand. The only trimming adopted for dresses of this kind is a single row of buttons, wrought in grey silk, and the colour of the pattern: they are of a large size, and descend from the top of the corsage to the bottom of the skirt.

Poult de soie, mousseline de soie, and shot silks

are, and will continue to be during October, the materials most in request for half-dress robes. The shot silks do not, as yet, present any novelty. One of the last year's now revived as a gros d'Automne, I have given in the first plate, with a trimming of one of the new kinds of passementerie. My readers will find in that figure a style of corsage that is much admired, and will be a good deal adopted. If a garniture is employed for the border of a silk robe, it must either be passementerie, of which there are several new flat kinds, or else festooned flounces or black lace. The different kinds of passementerie that offer a perfect imitation of lace, at the same time that they correspond with the colour of the robe, will certainly divide the vogue with lace both for silks and mousselines de soie: the latter, when trimmed with deep flounces, have them frequently edged with these trimmings in the same manner as the third figure in the first plate.

India muslin and taffetas will divide the vogue with poult de soie and shot silks, in dinner dress and evening negligé. The corsages of silk dresses are always tight, and in general pointed. There is no doubt that very deep points will be quite as fashionable as last season. Berthes, of the same material, or of lace, will also retain their vogue. The corsage à trois piece, of which I have given a model, is the one expected to be most in request.

Caps have lost nothing of the favour they enjoyed last autumn for dinner dress and social evening parties: they are still made very small, and I think even more becoming than usual. There is more variety in their trimmings. We have the bonnet bandeau of plain tulle, trimmed with water-flowers, forming agraffes on each side. The bonnet bouillonne of tulle d'Alençon, with tufts of geranium panache at the sides; the bonnet with a plain caul, and a papillon formed of scalloped blonde lace. The garniture of these last is always composed of fuschias, or other small flowers of the drooping kind. I have given some pretty models of lace caps; but so great is the variety, that I should exceed limits if I attempted to describe them. The coiffures without cauls, formed either of a lappet d'application, or of a puff of tulle with floating ends, decorated with flowers, are also very varied, and will be very fashionable.

my

Our élégantes are now leaving the wateringplaces, not for Paris-that is still deserted-but for their country seats. Several balls have been recently given in consequence. The robes were composed of taffeta crape and tarlatane; some of the first, of a deep rose colour or emerald green, had low and tight corsages, very deeply pointed, and short tight sleeves; the corsage and sleeves profusely trimmed with point d'Angleterre. There were two skirts; the under one had no trimming; the upper one cut round in deep festoons, edged with lace. Others had a berthe, formed of two rows of black lace, descending in a point nearly to that of the corsage, and closed down the front by a row of coques of ribbon to

correspond with the robe. The skirt was trimmed with black lace flounces.

The crape dresses had the corsages very low, bouillonne, rounding on the shoulder, and formdeeply pointed, and trimmed with a drapery ing a berthe at the back. Each side of the front breadth was decorated with bouillonné, very narrow at the top, enlarging as they descended to with a row of coques of ribbon. The tarlatane the hem, where they rounded, and were bordered robes were all trimmed with flounces, embroidered round the border with very finecoloured worsted, or decorated with ornaments composed of straw. The corsages were trimmed with revers of two falls, ornamented to corre spond with the trimming of the robe. The headdresses were of hair, ornamented with flowers, mingled in some instances with fruits.

Autumnal colours begin to appear: pomona green is added to the other shades of green; of red, and light and deep shades of orange, golden brown, dark blue, different full shades will also be in vogue; but light colours will still predominate in evening dress.

ADRIENNE DE M.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.

FIRST PLATE.

OPEN CARRIAGE DRESS.-Blue poult de soie robe, a bright full shade of the colour; the corsage is tight to the shape, a three-quarter height at the back, and opening in front in a long deep V; it is trimmed with a pelerine lappel of three falls, each cut in round dents festooned in blue silk. Long tight sleeve, open at the wrist, displaying the under sleeve of cambric bouillonné, terminated by a Valenciennes lace ruffle. There are two skirts; the upper one descends to the knee; it is finished with a flounce so disposed as to give the appearance of a third skirt; the under one is trimmed with three flounces; the upper skirt and the flounces are all festooned, so that the entire has the effect of a succession of flounces. Capote of white poult de soie; a drawn round shape, and rather small white flowers, and white brides; the exlong brim; the interior trimmed with gerbes of terior with white ribbon and three white têtes de trimmed with Valenciennes lace. A cashmere plumes arranged en bouquet. Cambric chemisette, scarf should be adopted with this dress.

PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS FOR THE WATERING PLACES.-Gros d'Automne robe, a rich twilled silk shot in rose-colour and grey; the corsage a three-quarter height at the back, tight to the shape, and open on the bosom, is trimmed in a very novel manner with full cordons of passementerie to correspond. Long tight sleeve, finished at the hand in a similar style. The skirt is decorated with the same kind of

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