94

DEPARTURE FOR THE SOUTHWARD.

CHAPTER V.

Depart for the southward.-Make Staten Island. — Bad weather. Excellence of Frazer's stove. Anchor off Cape St. John.-Meet an American sealer.-Moored in North Port Hatchett of Staten Island.- Description of the island.-Account of the Seal.-Various kinds, their nature and habits.-Penguins.-Albatross.-Scarcity of fish. Teredo Naval is.-Remarkable Medusæ. - Reflections. Climate.-Prevailing winds. Harbours of the island.

A

THE pendulum experiments and other observations having been completed, and the Chanticleer having received provisions enough for ten months' use, we prepared for sea, and sailed from Monte Video on the 5th of October. light breeze from the eastward favoured our departure; and although the water was tolerably smooth, the little brig, from being overladen with provisions, became very uneasy. In fact she was twelve inches deeper in the water than ever she had been, which obliged us to reduce sail, and to arrange the provisions on deck

amidships, clear from the sides of the vessel. This being done, she was considerably easier. On the 10th we were put on short allowance of water, as we had a long voyage before us towards the south pole, and it was uncertain when we might be able to renew our stock. On the 17th we experienced a severe gale of wind near the Falkland Islands, which obliged us to lie-to. On the 18th we saw the bleak and snowy hills of Staten Island, but there was too much wind for us to approach it, as we were ignorant of its harbours. We accordingly stood off, having sounded in one hundred and five fathoms.

The gale continued with unabated fury, accompanied with frequent showers of hail and snow, and the most terrific sea I ever witnessed in my life. This was Sunday the 19th, a day that I shall never forget. In the evening the wind shifted several points, which caused some uneasiness about the position of the shore, to which we were all entire strangers. The brig, however, was much relieved from the new arrangement of the stores, and behaved remarkably well, lying-to" like a duck," as the sailors termed it. In spite of their good opinions of

96

EXCELLENCE OF FRAZER'S STOVE."

her, the night which followed was the most uncomfortable I had ever passed; for owing to the combined effects of excessive motion, the noise of the sea lashing the sides of the vessel, the howling of the storm, and a leak in my cabin over my bed, neither rest nor sleep could I get. The same weather continued throughout the following day, and it was not until the 24th that we again made Staten Island and stood in for Cape St. John.

It is in weather such as we had just experienced that the great advantage of Frazer's stove is found. The hatches had been battened down fore and aft; and yet in this condition, with a most furious sea running, no inconvenience from smoke was found, and our dinners were cooked to perfection. Certainly Mr. Frazer deserves the blessing of every sailor, for it is in situations where such comforts are most needed that they are most appreciated.

On Saturday the 25th of October, having kept pretty well in with the land during the previous night, we made sail before a gentle breeze, and anchored off Deadman's Island, on the north side of Staten Land; for though an island in itself, and not of very large dimensions either, it

ANCHOR OFF CAPE ST. JOHN.

97

is called Staten Land. The morning was fine, cool, and pleasant; and to persons who had been tossed and knocked about in the manner that we had been for several days, the pleasure of anchoring in this solitary and secluded corner of the globe was as complete as if we had entered one of the first harbours of civilized Europe. It is true that there was no excitement here, no news to be learnt, no gaiety passing, no friends to visit, and what is worthy of consideration to persons who had been on salt provisions, no supply of fresh ones awaited us here: but as a refuge from the ruthless storm, as a resting-place from the incessant tumbling about we had so long suffered, the quietness and solitude of our new anchorage were sweet to our wearied frames; and, accustomed to our own resources, we were well disposed to look on the wilds before us with satisfaction, and to invest their novelty with additional charms.

Soon after we had anchored, a boat with an officer was despatched to Deadman's Island, and on her return we learned that every stone had a bird perched on it, that shell-fish were abundant, and that vegetation flourished; besides which, a duck or two having been shot by

98

MEET AN AMERICAN SEALER.

one of the party, inspired us with the hopes of a fresh meal. Saturday night is always celebrated among sailors, and this was passed in cheerfulness and tranquillity far different to the preceding.

Early on the following morning, Sunday 25th October, Captain Foster left us, in quest of a harbour for the reception of the Chanticleer while the pendulum experiments were going forward. After examining New Year's Harbour, which he did not approve of, in his way along the coast he discovered an American schooner at anchor in one of the creeks; the name of the schooner was the Penguin of Stornington: and the reception he met with from Captain Palmer, who commanded her, was most kind. Captain Palmer immediately offered to conduct the Chanticleer into the creek, which he had named North Port Hatchett. When he made his appearance on board the brig with Captain Foster, we took him for another Robinson Crusoe in the shape of some shipwrecked mariner. He was a kind and good-hearted man; and thinking that they would be a treat to us, had brought with him a basket of albatross's eggs, which were to us a most acceptable