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Capt. Manby's Survey of the Norfolk Coast.

place shifts, and appears to be regulated by the tides, as the currents are increased by winds or other causes; at which time the bank is removed to so great a distance from the land, as to render it doubtful whether the five and a half inch mortar already placed there, would project a rope to a vessel driven on it. I therefore suggest the propriety of a 42 pounder howitzer likewise to be stationed here, as no place offers more fatal testimonies, from fleets having been caught in the Would by a gale of wind flying to the N. E. As the most prompt and certain method of saving a crew, is by hauling a boat, by the rope projected over the vessel; and, in order to obviate a danger that occurred last winter, and was nearly fatal to a boat's crew at this place (who went to save the hands of a vessel) from their boat being stove, I submitted to the active people this question, Which would be the most desirable, to have a regular life boat, or your own boats simply fitted up with empty casks, ranged along either side below decks? The opinion was instantaneous and unanimous, that boats thus fitted up, would be superior to all the life boats ever invented, and the benefit for saving lives, and going off to save property, would be infinite. It may here be necessary to remark, that I have made several experiments on fitting up boats; but this method, from its simplicity, readiness of fitting up, less obstruction to the rowers, and being calculated for boats of every description, and consequently those in which they have confidence, and many other important considerations, has a very decided preference to all others, and has received the highest approbation of every person to whom it has been exhibited; thus I hope to establish a system of universal life boats.

Trimingham. The shooting down of immense masses of cliff has greatly as sisted in creating outer sands, an evil which I find increasing, which makes it necessary to have a five and a half inch brass mortar with a 6-pounder mortar, to be promptly forwarded to Mundley, to prevent a recurrence of the fatal accidents that have occurred from the mortar as Hasborough not arriving in time, and may be used from the life boat, when it cannot pull up to a vessel grounded on a sand, from the broken and white water that surrounds it.

Cromer.-In observing with uncommon regret, the ravages made along the coast, but particularly at this place, by

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the shooting down of the cliffs, occa-
sioned by the springs not being diverted,
which certainly is practicable, and may
be remedied by persons who have made
a professional study of it, as the late
Mr. Elkington; it is, I must beg to
submit, a subject worthy of attention,
the loss of much national territory, inde-
pendent of the face of a high land being
so much changed, and the light-house
standing in such awful jeopardy.
acre and a half directly in its front, shot
down last winter, and I have no doubt
but will speedily increase to the light-
house. For facilitating the means
giving assistance, and for using from the
life-boat at this place, a 6-pounder mor-
tar will be necessary.

An

of

Beston and Kelling.-These stations being at so great a distance from the shore, the signal officers will therefore place the ordnance and stores sent to them, the former at Sherringham, the latter at Waybourne, to prevent the recurrence of those dreadful circumstances of shipwreck that have so repeatedly happened; the shores are steep, and the vessels consequently coming close, a 6-pounder mortar will be sufficient.

Blakeney-The dangers of this place, and the innumerable circumstances stated to me of distress, proceed in a great measure from vessels being caught by a hard gale at N. or N. E. Their only hope of safety is, running for the harbour, which would be perfectly safe at the top of high water, had they lights to steer for it: at the springs there is plenty of water, but it is at those periods of the day which in winter is generally dark, that is six o'clock. In order to remedy this evil, and recurrence of similar fatal accidents, I suggest two large ship lanthorns should be placed in the charge of the harbour-master, to be regulated by his observation of the shiftings of the bar, for the guidance of ships in distress; two 6-pounder mortars should likewise be placed, one to give assistance on the eastern point of land, where the crews of so many vessels have perished, and the other for boats that may go to the assistance of vessels that may be driven on the bar. It may be necessary to add the following information given; viz. "the bar of Blakeney, although buoyed out tolerably regular, is a very dangerous one for strangers to attempt, as it often shifts. Sometimes there are six or seven feet over it at low water, and at other times not more than one or two; however, it may be said, that in a heavy gale of wind from the

1814.]

Capt. Manby's Survey of the Lincolnshire Coast.

eastward, when you cannot clear the land upon either tack, it is much better to take it than to run the risk of being driven on shore."

Holkham. In the vicinity of this station is the river running to Wells. For the effectual preservation of lives at the entrance of that harbour, and for giving the promptest relief to vessels driven on shore on the coast near this place, a 6pounder mortar for each service is necessary.

REMARK.-I have found no alteration of currents in the survey of this county; but learn that from 800 to 1,000 persons have been seen to perish on the coast, that I have been assured would have been saved by the means now brought into use.

LINCOLNSHIRE.-On commencing the survey of this county I was struck with the extent of its shoals, and the consequent dangers thereby presented; and the more so, when informed that numeTous unseen shoals and overfalls lie off the coast, some newly created, some unnoticed in charts generally in use, and some having greatly increased and extended themselves since a survey was taken. In minutely examining the charts of the eastern coast, but particularly off this part of the county, and comparing them with the information received from intelligent and experienced pilots on the causes of shipwreck, I was deeply impressed that a floating light, placed off Lynn Knock, would greatly prevent future distressing occurrences, and be extremely beneficial to the shipping interest of the nation, and general navigation of this part of the North Sea; by enabling vessels when caught in a northeast gale, and that cannot make the Humber, to run for Lynn Deeps, and anchor in safety, in from six to twenty fathom, with good holding ground, or securely ride under the lee of the Knock Sand, which is extending N.N.E. and S. S. W., being one mile and a half in length, and one a half in breadth, in from five to ten fathoms

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mistaken for the Dungeon, Hasbro', or any other light, when vessels are crossing the sea, I should recommend it being displayed in the form of a triangle, with three large lanthorus, the glass of each to be one of clear glass, another of stained blue, and another of red.

This suggestion having been communicated to the mayor of Boston, a meeting of the merchants and ship-owners of that port was held on the 10th Sept. 1812, to consider of the subject, and they were unanimously of opinion that "were a floating light to be placed near the Lynn Knock, it would very much diminish the dangers of this navigation, by rendering the roadsteads of Lynn Deeps a secure retreat from north easterly gales in dark nights, for all vessels navigating the North Sea, and especially for all vessels embayed between the Spurn and Cromer, and that thereby many ships, cargoes, and lives, would be saved."

Skegness.-In my examination of this part of the coast, it having been stated to me that it had been fatal to some foreign vessels, and was still dangerous to ships, by their having mistaken the lights at the windows at the bathinghouses and hotel, for the lights placed as a guide to navigation; in consequence, a letter, suggesting the necessity of blinds or shuters, to be closed at night, was addressed by me to the officiating minister of the parish.

Judging the harbour and river of Wainfleet to be too trifling to afford protection to vessels, and learning it was never attempted in a gale of wind. I have considered it needless to advise sending a mortar here, or to Skegness; as the adoption of a floating light on Lynn Knock, is ample security for the preservation of lives and property to this part of the coast.

Sutton. In the vicinity of this place, I was informed, that from the extreme flatness of the shore, it rarely occurred when vessels were driven on it, that it was attended with the loss of lives; for if the vessel had strength to bear the first shock of staking, the tide retiring so very fast would soon leave her dry, and the people be enabled to walk from on board; but the property or cargoes were often greatly injured. This, however, they assured, according to suggestion, that if a floating light was placed off Lynn Knock, ships, when meeting with contrary winds, might in the night put into the Deeps, which they now cannot approach with safety,

4

Capt. Manby's Survey of the Lincolnshire Coast.

and are consequently obliged to keep the sea. Near this place, off Thelthorpe, is a new shoal or knowl, on which several vessels had grounded, having only six feet water on it at low spring tides. It is stretching to the S. E., and is about a quarter of a mile broad; a sail's breadth open to the eastward of Half Course, or Trusthorpe Church, will clear it. Ilaving received farther particulars respecting the shoals of this place, I shall extract observations communicated to me by the very intelligent collector of the customs at Grimsby. "There are two shoals, called Theddlethorpe Knowls: they run parallel with each other; the outward one lying at the distance from the shore about seven miles, and not laid down in any chart that I have seen; the inward one lying about four miles from the shore, and about a quarter of a mile in length: the inward knowl has little more than one fathom water at low water." As the people at this place are active, and ready with their boats to give assistance, a six-pounder mortar should be sent for such services. The system of filling up boats by casks was here most highly approved.

Saltfleet. Here is a very dangerous sand, on which vessels often get, called The Rose. It lies about a mile to the northward of this place; a deep channel or swatchway runs between it and the main, that enables boats to go off, but the difficulties of approaching them requires other aid; it will therefore be necessary to send a 6-pounder mortar and a 42-pounder, for the relief of vessels when run upon the south end of the Hale: this latter sand has most considerably extended itself to the southward, beyond the representation of any chart I have seen, and consequently increasing its dangers.

Cleyness. As there are not any boats near this place, and if one had been here during a gale of wind last winter, three persons would have been saved, I recommend a man-of-war's jolly-boat to be fitted up with casks, according to the methods I have suggested, and to be sent here with a 6-pounder mortar to apply from the same. I do not deem it necessary to recommend any stores being sent to the remaining part of the Lincolnshire coast, from its more insular situation.

YORKSHIRE. Along the borders of that admirable bay of the Humber, I found nothing to notice until I reached the Spurn, where a life-boat is placed by the gentlemen of the county, for the pur

[Aug. 1,

pose of going out by Hawke Roads to the assistance of vessels that may be driven on the Binx, or New Sand, which is outward of Spurn Point. I propose that a 6-pounder mortar should be sent for the use of that boat, to aid and secure the purposes of her intention. On finding, as I proceeded along, that the coast was totally uninhabited by fishermen and seafaring people, and no boats whatever kept; and that vessels generally wrecked here were upon the above-named sands, which are at a distance from the land, and in some instances the crews had been saved by pilot vessels, sent out of the port of Hull by the Trinity-house at that place, to meet vessels, and navigate them into the Humber, &c.; I was induced to address a letter to the elder brethren of that institution, accompanied with a book of instructions and sheets of description, for the various methods of saving shipwrecked persons. In that appe. I pointed out the infinite advantage that would be derived, by the pilot vessels under their controul carrying a small mortar and apparatus, to effect communication with vessels when driven on shoals at a distance from the land, or when in distress at sea, when it is both difficult and dangerous to approach them. I likewise suggested the advantages of the boat of each vessel, when on such duty, being fitted up in the manner proposed by me in the directions, to render them efficient life-boats; stating, that if this was carried into effect, the greatest possible benefit and security would be derived to a considerable range of this part of the coast, superior to any other system of protection that could be recommended. The Trinity-house have signified their approbation and thanks to me for my suggestions, and "expressed their readiness to promote it as far as they can recommend and assist.”

Bridlington.-Nothing could possibly be so conveniently situated for vessels coasting from the northward, or when employed between Flamborough Head and the Spurn Point, as the harbour of Bridlington to take refuge in, and lie sheltered from north-easterly and south-easterly gales. In its present state, I regret to observe, it will not afford such protection: this I feel a duty to point out and declare, that on this very perilous coast nothing would so much conduce to the preservation of lives and property, as by that improvement, to render this harbour an asylum for distressed vessels; a work which most

1814.]

Capt. Manby's Survey of the Yorkshire Coast.

assuredly is practicable, to make it both perfectly secure and commodious.

To the northern and eastern trade, the most incalculable benefits would be derived, as vessels are now frequently compelled to anchor in this bay (for the shelter of the Head and Smithwick Sand) in the hope of the weather moderating; bat on the gale continuing, they are obliged to relinquish their situation by cutting, (which is generally attended with the loss of anchors) and not daring to attempt the harbour from the difficulty of its entrance, &c. consequently endeavour to proceed to sea, where being on a lee shore, they are often wrecked, with the total loss of their crews.

Flamborough. The number of vessels lost here, with the perishing of all the crews, previous to the erection of the light-house on the Head, exceeds all possible conception: since that period it has greatly decreased. I was, however, furnished with still more melancholy details, proceeding from vessels being driven in by storm, or drawn imperceptibly by the influence of suction, which is extreme in this bay, rendering it almost impossible to work out, and from the lights being obscured by fogs and snow storms: on which occasions it was stated to me, as not to be discernible at 100 yards; they are consequently, by the indraft of the bay, set upon the mcks, which has proved so fatal. To prevent similar distresses, it will be necessary to apprize the unwary navigator of his danger, by a bell or gun. In consequence of making known this suggestion, it was pointed out to me, that a plan or working model for a bell to act by water, had been made for such purpose. I have been to examine it, which was done with ininute observation. It is the invention of Mr. Milne, the collector of the customs, at Bridlington; and I can only observe, that a more ingenious contrivance, or one better calculated to answer this very important purpose, cannot be produced; and it does the highest credit to his mechanical

genius.

Flamborough Head to Sunderland.-To give security to the Bay of Flamborough Head, it will be necessary to send six-pounder mortar for the use of the Bridlington Life Boat, and a brass royal mortar for the preservation of the crews of vessels when stranded on the beach; similar pieces of ordnance should be sent to the Signal Station at Flamborough; likewise a rope-ladder. I was much gratified to find there were near the Head

several fishermen, who were pointed out to me, for their activity cases of dis tress; these being instructed, and printed directions left with them, will greatly tend to save the lives of future shipwrecked persons, at a spot where such numbers are recorded to have perished. From the point of this awful, but truly grand bay, the cliffs rise in every diversity of form, and are composed of rugged mouldering white stone: from their looseness much care is required in giving assistance to the shipwrecked, other wise, in the attempt to save, the loose stones might fall and destroy the object of our intended preservation; but on minute observation, I was happy to discover several favourable spots presented themselves, as projecting ledges of firm rock, and little sandy bays.

The high promontory at the southern point of Filey Bay, is Speaton Cliff, stupendous and terrific beyond all possible conception, exciting every excessive horror that can affect the inind: it rises perpendicular upwards of 400 feet, and has deep water at its foot. At this fatal place an infinite number have perished, and when here driven, their fate has hitherto been considered inevitable, as the efforts of the inhabitants of the surrounding country have been in vain to rescue. When vessels are close under the cliff, ropes have been repeatedly lowered to their assistance; but from the severity of the weather at such times, and the extreme height of the rock, it has been found impossible for them to ascend by a common rope. I here exhibited and submitted my rope-ladder, that is capable of being projected from a piece of ordnance, requiring of the people their opinion, if such would be useful for that place, and similar situations? It gives me infinite gratification to say, it was not only approved, but I was assured it would have saved hundreds at that spot, for the means it affords of supporting both hands and feet, by the loops in which they could occasionally rest, when much exhausted or benumbed. From the promontory just mentioned, a bay of sand (on the beach of which several vessels have been driven) sweeps round to an extraordinary ridge of flat rocks, called Filey Bridge, protruding themselves upwards of a quarter of a mile into the sea, and covered at high water. This has been the cause of such numerous losses of lives and vessels. To prevent a recurrence, it will be necessary to send a royal mortar and a six-pounder, for the advantage of

Capi. Manby's Survey of the Yorkshire Coast.

speedy assistance in certain cases. The same number of, and description of ordnance, should be sent to Scarborough; the former for the preservation of the crews of vessels that strike on the back of the pier, in attempting to run for the harbour; for when this occurs, they are consequintly driven on the beach, where lives have been lost: and for the use of the Life Boat the latter is recommended. During my experiments at this place, and instructing the beach-men in the various methods of sating shipwrecked persons, in the presence of many distinguished, experienced, and scientific persons, I tried a method of conveying directions to persons on board of stranded vessels, in the following way :-by a Triangular Flag of three distinguishable colours, which, by changing its position on the staff, would produce six distinct signals. Such a flag I proposed should accompany each mortar intended for the shore. This exhibited, would at once indicate to the people on board a distressed vessel, that assistance was at hand; this would animate the crew, and encourage them to exert themselves for their own preservation, and that of the ship and cargo. On the person in whose charge the flag is left seeing that a vessel is in great distress, and must inevitably come for the shore, he will wave the flag (to the right or left) to direct the people on board which way to steer the vessel for some favourable part of the shore, and by fixing the flag in the ground, will point out the safest spot for the preservation of the crew, and least injury to the ship and cargo.

On leaving Scarborough, not a mile did I travel on this very destructive coast, but some melancholy tale of distress was related to me. At Robin Hood's Bay, one that excited uncommon interest was here detailed, that occurred a few years since it was a vessel stranded in this bay, and all hands perishing, amounting to sixteen: the vessel was navigated by a person resident near this spot, and the crew consisted of inhabitants of the village close in its vicinity: they perished within 100 yards of the shore, in the presence of parents, friends and relatives; and I was assured, every soul would have been saved, if the method had been known of projecting a rope. To prevent future calamities, a 5 inch mortar will be necessary.

Whitby presents every feature of horror to a navigator's mind, from the broken water indicating sunken rocks, rug ged cliffs, and extreme flat shores. To

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prevent a recurrence of distresses, arising from vessels striking on the rocks in front of its harbour, a six-pounder mortar will be required to be applied from a boat, and which from its portability can. be used with great success. When a vessel is driven under Sortick Nab and Cliff, a rope-ladder will likewise be of infinite use here, for lowering to persons driven under the Nab Cliff.

To give protection to Sandend Bay and Shore, a 5 inch mortar will be requisite; and similar pieces for Runswick and Staith's Bays. For the sake of humanity, I had to regret, at Whitby, that the life-boat was in total disuse, from a general prejudice against it, although certainly this place offers advantages peculiar to a boat of this description, by having a harbour to go from: but they assured me, her size and weight prevented a possibility of her being forced against a violent wind, and over a high raging sea. To impel such a boat by the power of oars from a flat shore, in such weather as described, when the surfs are broken, or white water, I admitted to be impos sible; but urged the advantage here of going out with the ebb-tide. Finding the prejudice so rooted, and that nothing would induce them to use her again, I submitted the plan of a boat constructed by me in 1808, for the use of the public, and sent to the Island of Anholt, for their benefit.

Conceiving that good may arise from a knowledge of its construction and properties, I consider it a duty, for general information, to state it thus in my report. It was fitted up with boxes of air; but the method by casks is infinitely to be preferred, and particularly when secured to the lower part of the boat: for shouid the bottom of the boat be stove in, her buoyancy is still preserved, and safety for her crew provided. This boat above mentioned I had the honour of exhibiting before a committee of naval officers (Admiral Lord Gardner, president) appointed by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, whose report justified the sanguine hope I had formed of producing a small portable boat combining in its construction every principle for security and service, and particularly adapted for the employ, to bring in safety to the shore, the crew of a stranded vessel, after communication has been effected by a rope; and I flatter myself this plan will, at some future period, have a distinguished rank in the various constructions produced for the preservation of shipwrecked seamen.

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