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KINDNESS AND JUSTICE NEEDED

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own way of doing things, and nothing can move him from them. The Filipino, on the other hand, has no idea except to please. He will do what he thinks you wish him to do, whether it seems to him right or wrong.

What the Filipino needs to see in Americans is a spirit of kindness and justice. When these characteristics shine out in the life of the white man, they will be answered by similar ones from the brown man; and the Filipino and the American will find in each other the best that is in both.

CHAPTER X

WATERFALLS AND RAPIDS

Plenty of Time in the Orient-Transport Friends
Visited-Calling on a Padre-Rival Attractions near
Together-The Pagsanjan Cañon-The Falls of the
Botocan-The Best Time to See the Waterfalls.

THE

HE ride from Manila to Santa Cruz occupies the better part of a day. The sailing hour is 7 A.M. Experience shows that the advertised hour and the sailing hour are an hour apart as a rule. But the certain probability that one will have to wait an hour or more we waited three hours one day-does not keep the traveler from arising out of the midst of his beauty sleep, eating a specially prepared breakfast served in his room by the Chino boy, and driving pellmell to the landing before the advertised hour. It is pleasant to sit on the steamer on the Pasig River and watch the cargo stowed away in the little boat which is to carry the necessaries of life to American soldiers stationed in the posts around the bay. Not far away Filipino boys are giving their horses and themselves a morning bath. Riding into the river until only the heads of the horses are visible, the boys dismount and wash the horses thoroughly.

Just above the town of Pasig, a dozen miles from the city, the boat turned from the river into the Laguna de

CALLING ON A NATIVE PRIEST

111

Bay, as the lake is called, and for a couple of hours sailed along the southern shore until we reached Binan. Here we were met by Captain A. L. Dade of the Thirteenth Cavalry, who, with his family, were fellow-passengers on the Logan. The steamer, small as it was, could not go near shore, and large bancas came out to meet us. These took us to the bamboo pier built out far into the water. We were told that there was no danger, that any one was safe to walk on it; but I confess the pier did not appear to warrant the statements made. The trip in an army wagon from Binan to Santa Rosa was novel. We rode through the quaint streets and soon entered the rice paddies and saw the devastation made by the locusts.

Santa Rosa is one of the cleanest towns and, therefore, one of the most healthy towns that we visited. Like every other Philippine town, it has its square with the large church on one side, houses built around the other three sides, and the band-stand in the center. We were taken to call on the padre who lives in the convent, as the parish house is called. The priest, who was extremely cordial in his reception, expressed a desire to show us the church. In doing so he took us through the treasure rooms, showing the costly vestments, the chalice of gold studded with gems, and other symbols of worship.

A ride of a dozen miles the next morning carried us to Calamba, where other Logan passengers were met, and then a ride of two or three hours on a native steamer brought us, well-nigh exhausted, to Santa Cruz. At Calamba, Los Banos and other ports of call we observed a new way of boarding steamers. Huge bancas, each manned by a dozen natives with poles, would be pushed

out toward the incoming steamer, and with a reckless disregard of the safety of their passengers or the rights of their competitors, the polers would ram their boats against the steamer's side while it was still under good headway. A quick transfer of the passengers and their effects was made, and then a race would start for the shore. Usually the best of feeling prevailed, but now and then a Filipino got "hot in his head," to use their expressive term, and at least one murder was averted by the presence of an officer.

Calling one evening in Santa Cruz on Governor Cailles, the head of the government in the Province of Laguna, with a physician from California, the latter said:

"My experience with Spanish people on the Pacific coast has taught me how necessary it is to be careful of praising anything that belongs to a host. Now, if I should compliment the Governor on those deer horns nailed to that pillar" (motioning toward them with his thumb) "I would have to take a pair home or give offense to our new friend.”

A

The conversation was in English, but even as the doctor spoke several sets of horns were being torn from the pillar-the thumb motion was understood by the Governor. In vain protests were made; one pair of horns was taken to San Francisco and two to New York. rifle was proudly exhibited by the host, who explained that a hundred deer had fallen under its flash. Nothing was said about its record with the soldiers in khaki; Cailles was one of the most stubborn insurgent generals during the revolution and nearly the last one to lay down his arms.

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