cable. From the windows the eye wanders over the fea that feparates Scotland from Norway, and when the winds beat with violence, must enjoy all the terrifick grandeur of the tempestuous ocean. I would not for my amufement wifh for a ftorm,; but as ftorms, whether wifhed or not, will fometimes happen, I may fay, without violation of humanity, that I fhould willingly look out upon them from Slanes Cafile.

When we were about to take our leave, our departure was prohibited by the countess till we should have seen two places upon the coaft, which fhe rightly confidered as worthy of curiofity, Dun Buy, and the Buller of Buchan, to which Mr. Boyd very kindly conducted us.

Dun Buy, which in Erfe is faid to fignify the Yellow-Rock, is a double protuberance of ftone, open to the main fea on one fide, and parted from the land by a very narrow channel on the other. It has its name and its colour from the dung of innumerable fea-fowls, which in the fpring chufe this place as convenient for incubation, and have their eggs and their young taken in great abundance. One of the birds that frequent this rock has, as we were told, its body not larger than a duck's, and yet lays eggs as large as thofe of a goofe. This bird is by the inhabitants named a Coot. That which is called Coot in England, is here a Cooter.

Upon thefe rocks there was nothing that could long detain attention, and we foon turned our eyes to the Buller, or Bouilloir of Buchan, which no man can fee with indifference, who has either sense of danger, or delight in rarity. It is a rock perpen

dicularly

dicularly tubulated, united on one fide with a high fhore, and on the other rifing fteep to a great height, above the main fea. The top is open, from which may be feen a dark gulf of water which flows into the cavity, through a breach made in the lower part of the inclofing rock. It has the appearance of a vaft well bordered with a wall. The edge of the Buller is not wide, and to thofe that walk round, appears very narrow. He that ventures to look downward fees, that if his foot fhould flip, he must fall from his dreadful elevation upon ftones on one fide, or into the water on the other. We however went round, and were glad when the circuit was completed.

When we came down to the fea, we faw fome boats, and rowers, and refolved to explore the Buller, at the bottom. We entered the arch, which the water had made, and found ourselves in a place, which, though we could not think ourfelves in danger, we could fcarcely furvey without fome recoil of the mind. The bafon in which we floated was nearly circular, perhaps thirty yards in diameter. We were inclofed by a natural wall, rifing steep on every fide to a height which produced the idea of infurmountable confinement. The interception of all lateral light caused a difmal gloom. Round us was a perpendicular rock, above us the distant fky, and below an unknown profundity of water. If I had any malice against a walking fpirit, instead of laying him in the Red-fea, I would condemn him to refide in the Buller of Buchan.

But terror without danger is only one of the fports of fancy, a voluntary agitation of the mind

that

that is permitted no longer than it pleases. We were foon at leifure to examine the place with minute inspection, and found many cavities which, as the watermen told us, went backward to a depth which they had never explored. Their extent we had not time to try; they are faid to ferve different purposes. Ladies come hither fometimes in the fummer with collations, and fmugglers make them ftorehouses for clandeftine merchandise. It is hardly to be doubted but the pirates of ancient times often ufed them as magazines of arms, or repofitories of plunder.

To the little veffels used by the northern rowers, the Buller may have ferved as a shelter from storms, and perhaps as a retreat from enemies; the entrance might have been ftopped, or guarded with little difficulty, and though the veffels that were ftationed within would have been battered with ftones fhowered on them from above, yet the crews would have lain fafe in the caverns.

Next morning we continued our journey, pleased with our reception at Slanes Caftle, of which we had now leisure to recount the grandeur and the elegance; for our way afforded us few topicks of converfation. The ground was neither uncultivated nor unfruitful; but it was still all arable. Of flocks or herds there was no appearance. I had now tra velled two hundred miles in Scotland, and feen only one tree not younger than myself.

BAMFF.

We dined this day at the houfe of Mr. Frazer of Streichton, who fhewed us in his grounds fome

ftones

ftones yet ftanding of a druidical circle, and what I began to think more worthy of notice, fome foreft trees of full growth.

At night we came to Bamff, where I remember nothing that particularly claimed my attention. The ancient towns of Scotland have generally an appearance unusual to Englishmen. The houses, whether great or fmall, are for the most part built of ftones. Their ends are now and then next the streets, and the entrance into them is very often by a flight of steps, which reaches up to the fecond ftory; the floor which is level with the ground being entered only by stairs defcending within the house.

The art of joining fquares of glafs with lead is. little ufed in Scotland, and in fome places is totally forgotten. The frames of their windows are all of wood. They are more frugal of their glafs than the English, and will often, in houfes not otherwise mean, compose a fquare of two pieces, not joining like cracked glafs, but with one edge laid perhaps half an inch over the other. Their windows do not move upon hinges, but are pushed up and drawn down in grooves, yet they are feldom accommodated with weights and pullies. He that would have his window open muft hold it with his hand, unless what may be fometimes found among good contrivers, there be a nail which he may ftick into a hole, to keep it from falling.

What cannot be done without fome uncommon trouble or particular expedient, will not often be done at all. The incommodioufnefs of the Scotch windows keeps them very clofely fhut, The neVOL, X. ceffity

Ꮓ

ceffity of ventilating human habitations has not yet been found by our northern neighbours; and even in houses well built and elegantly furnished, a ftranger may be fometimes forgiven, if he allows himfelf to wifh for fresher air.

Thefe diminutive obfervations feem to take away fomething from the dignity of writing, and therefore are never communicated but with hesitation, and a little fear of abafement and contempt. But it must be remembered, that life confifts not of a feries of illuftrious actions, or elegant enjoyments; the greater part of our time paffes in compliance with neceffities, in the performance of daily duties, in the removal of fmall inconveniencies, in the procurement of petty pleasures; and we are well or ill at eafe, as the main ftream of life glides on fmoothly, or is ruffled by fmall obftacles and frequent interruption. The true state of every nation is the state of common life. The manners of a people are not to be found in the fchools of learning, or the palaces of greatnefs, where the national character is obfcured or obliterated by travel or inftruction, by philosophy or vanity; nor is publick happiness to be estimated by the affemblies of the gay, or the banquets of the rich. The great mass of nations is neither rich nor gay: they whofe aggregate conftitutes the people, are found in the streets and the villages, in the fhops and farms; and from them. collectively confidered, muft the measure of general profperity be taken. As they approach to delicacy a nation is refined; as their conveniencies are multiplied, a nation, at least a commercial nation, must be denominated wealthy..