lation, it was a seat of refinement and art, to which the young men of Gaul were sent for their education. Considerable masses of the Roman walls still exist, showing the extent of the ancient city; and architectural remains of a highly interesting character, though not of the purest age of art,-especially two Roman gates,-attract the notice of the traveller. Some portions of the Cathedral, particularly the spire, are also greatly admired by the student of medieval architecture.

The Cathedral of Autun reminds one by natural association of its prelates. Two of them have obtained, in very different ways, what may be called a classical celebrity, recorded in the following epigram:

ROQUETTE, dans son tems,

TALLEYRAND, dans le notre,
Furent evêques d'Autun;-
Tartuffe fut le surnom d'un,

Ah! si Moliere eût connu l'autre !

which may be poorly translated as follows:—

Two bishops have adorned Autun,

Roquette and this his modern brother;

Tartuffe preserves the name of one,

Oh! had Moliere but known the other!

It may seem the height of romance for an American even to say a civil word in favor of the last named of these celebrated bishops of Autun, but the French Revolution brought a good many men into power much worse than M. de Talleyrand. He belonged to the most ancient noblesse of France; but having, in consequence of his lameness, been placed in the Church, he early, like Lafayette, Mirabeau, and many others of the French aristocracy felt, as Louis XV. had felt and said before them, that the old French Monarchy could last no longer; that it was rotten at heart. He therefore adopted the revolution, but fled disgusted and horror-struck from its bloody excesses. He came to this country, and took the

preliminary steps to become a citizen of the United States. I saw in Peale's museum, many years ago, the official notice of this intention, signed by himself, and it afterwards passed into the possession of the late Mr. Edward D. Ingraham, of Philadelphia.

M. de Talleyrand, having been ordered by the British government, (under the influence of the panic with reference to everything French which had seized them,) to leave England, took passage for the United States at Plymouth, where he happened to find himself in the same inn with Benedict Arnold. Not being particularly acquainted with the relations in which this wretched man might still stand with America, Talleyrand offered to take letters for him to the United States. This civility Arnold declined, saying, "I am the only man in the world that does not dare write to his native country." The little volume of "Recollections" of Mr. Rogers, lately published, contains a most remarkable counterpart to this anecdote, given on the authority of the Duke of Wellington. "When Lord Londonderry attacked Talleyrand in Parliament and I defended him, saying, in everything as far as I had observed, he had always been fair and honest, Talleyrand burst into tears, saying, 'He is the only man that ever said anything good of me!""

Arrived in the United States, M. de Talleyrand was far from imitating the unwise conduct of his countrymen in America, who threw themselves into the political controversies of this country, and allowed themselves to be made use of, to embarrass the administration of General Washington. He of course entered into no personal relations with the President, but he formed an intimate acquaintance and contracted a warm friendship with General Hamilton, whom he considered, and in after life often spoke of, as the most sagacious and best informed of American Statesmen, especially in ref erence to European politics. He carried with him, on his return to France, a miniature of General Hamilton, painted

at his request. When Aaron Burr was in Paris, and requested an interview with M. de Talleyrand, then Minister of Foreign Affairs, the latter added this clause to the cold official note appointing a time for the reception: "The Minister for Foreign Affairs thinks proper to inform Mr. Burr, that a portrait of General Hamilton is hanging in his office;" an intimation which of course prevented the visit. This miniature, or a copy of it, with a little receptacle on the back containing obituary notices of General Hamilton, cut from the American newspapers, was after his decease sent by M. de Talleyrand to the family in the United States. The curious anecdote just given was related by M. de Talleyrand himself to the son and grandson of General Hamilton, on a visit made by invitation to Vallençay, a few years before his death, on which occasion his distinguished attentions showed the honor in which he held the memory of their illustrious and lamented relative.

In reference to the political course of M. de Talleyrand as a French Statesman, it cannot be denied that he was a politician of the same school with the celebrated Austrian Minister, whose character formed the subject of the thirty-fifth paper of this series. But still more than Metternich, he is entitled to the credit of having studied, sometimes no doubt from a false point of view, the interests of the country of which he was a citizen, and of the government which he served. To this he sacrificed the favor of his all-powerful master, whose Spanish policy, the great and fatal error of his reign,—was adopted and pursued in direct opposition to the counsels of M. de Talleyrand.

Before leaving Autun, it may be remarked that it is the birth-place of General M'Mahon, who was created a marshal of France by Louis Napoleon, on the battle-field of Magenta, for having "saved the army." As the name indicates, his family is of Irish extraction, and is one of those which, with

self-sacrificing chivalry, followed the fortunes of James II. The new-made duke of Magenta was born at Autun, in 1807. Having mentioned Benedict Arnold in the foregoing paper, I cannot refrain from repeating another anecdote of him, related by Mr. Sabine, which throws a dismal light on the repute in which he was held in a community where it might have been expected, if anywhere, that he would have. been kindly viewed. After the revolutionary war, he estab lished himself in some sort of business at St. John's, New Brunswick, which was principally settled by American loyalists. His warehouse and the merchandize in it, being fully insured, were destroyed by fire, and Arnold was charged in a newspaper with having himself set fire to the building, in order to get the insurance, which was largely beyond the value of the property. He prosecuted the publisher of the paper for a libel, laid the damages at thousands, and recovered, by the verdict of the jury, two and six pence! Such was the estimate formed by a St. John's jury of his probity.

NUMBER FORTY.

LYONS.

Hotel de l'Europe at Lyons-The hill of Fourvières-Description of the Panorama scen from its top-Distant view of Mont Blanc-Pilgrimages to the shrine of our Lady of Fourvières--Resort of beggars and almsgiving on the part of the Pilgrims-Anecdote of a professed Scottish beggar-The bronze tablets containing the speech of the Emperor Cladius-Martyrdom of Saint Irenæus and Blandina-The Persecutions of the early Christians as recorded in ecclesiastical history compared with the cruelties practised at Lyons in the French revolution.—Wholesale massacre in the Brotteaux-Escape and career of Jacquard, the inventor of the celebrated loom that bears his name-saying of Napoleon I. about him-IIis epitaph.

WE passed a few days at Lyons, a city which I have, in the course of my wanderings, visited three times, and ever with undiminished satisfaction. To begin with our lodgings, there is a gloomy grandeur about the Hotel de l'Europe, which I do not dislike in an old European city. It resembles a princely palace, and in fact probably was one. Its rooms are of vast height; the ceilings painted, and that not contemptibly, in fresco; the walls hung with old family portraits of Louis Quatorze and the Regency; the floors tiled or inlaid with woods once bright and particolored; the chimneys of colossal length, depth, and height; everything, in a word, on a grand scale, not excepting, I must own, the dirt,-which one must take in these old continental hotels, together with the grandeurs. In the fare there was nothing to complain of; nor in 1818 in the bill. All this may have changed since I was last there in 1841.

This first visit to Lyons was made before the halcyon