PAST GRANDEUR. 179 "But, papa," reiterated Ellen, "what was your general impression of the city ?" "That past magnificence, my dear, and present poverty, are written in legible characters in every part of it. It is impossible to walk a step in Toledo, or to turn the eye any where, without perceiving ruins in every direction. The remains of former grandeur, and the indication of present decay, are present every where. The Alcayer, that immense pile, once the residence of Moors, and subsequently of the kings of Spain, forms one corner of the city. The irregular and picturesque line of buildings, at least one half of them convents, each with its tower, and terrace, and hanginggarden, stretches along the summit of the hill towards the west; and mingled with them are the remains of the Roman walls that once entirely enclosed the city: parts of it are still perfect. "Toledo contained two hundred thousand inhabitants; now they do not exceed sixteen or seventeen thousand: but throughout this progressive decay, the convents and churches, the priests and the friars, have continued in undiminished numbers. Bigotry and fanaticism, nowhere exert so powerful an influence as at Toledo. The geographical position of Toledo is highly favourable to the success of priestcraft; for, with sufficient resources in the territory that lies along the Tagus, 180 POWER OF THE PRIESTS IN TOLEDO. and with no passable road or navigation of any kind to other towns, the inhabitants have scarcely any intercourse with strangers; none whatever with foreigners, The franciscan and mendicant friars receive a marked obeisance from all they meet; every shop has its patron saint to bless its gains; and it is but fair to add, that the more strict and self-denying conduct of the clergy maintain these good dispositions in the people. Every thing and every person in Toledo is purely Spanish; it has no foreign mixture whatever. We visited of course the manufactory for steel arms. The Toledo blade has long been famous. It is a building of extraordinary extent, comprising within itself, the workmen, forges, and every portion of the establishment. The blades are polished on a wheel of walnut-wood, and are very beautiful specimens of art." "Thank you, papa," said Ellen. "It is delightful to hear all these details from one who has just seen them: but is this all; have you nothing more to tell me?" "Nothing more; and I have been talking incessantly for this last hour." 66 How many swords do they make, papa, in a year?" "Not more than eight thousand; and only fifty workmen are employed to complete them. SPANISH FAMILY OF THE HAS-BEENS. 181 This manufacture, like every other, is on the decline." "The has-beens are a large and flourishing family in Spain," observed Frank. "They are," said his father. "It is a subject of deep regret that it should be so but there was one establishment at Toledo, that is in actual existence, and that pleased me exceedingly. It is a college for girls, chiefly the children of officers, and individuals in government-offices. They are well educated in every useful and ornamental branch of education; and here they may remain all their lives, at the charge of government, if they neither marry nor choose to go into a convent. By a fundamental rule laid down by the founder, (Lorenzana,) a small dowry is given to every one that marries; but nothing is given to those who go into a convent. When we visited the institution, there were twenty-seven young ladies; ten had married the year before and there was no disposition, no allurement held out, even in Toledo, to a monastic life, because no profit would be acquired by it. Nothing explains more clearly the self-interested motives which induce so many young persons to bury themselves for life in a nunnery. And now, Ellen, I think my budget is closed. The boys have gone off to your mother to talk over their dear bull-fight; and Iam tired: I think I shall go to bed." 182 66 GOOD ADVICE. Good-night, papa. Do not leave your door open, or Frank will wake you before your first sleep is out. 'In vain these dangers past, your doors you close, THE BULL-FIGHT. 183 CHAPTER XIV. THE BULL-FIGHT. In the morning of the day appointed for this sight, it was astonishing how calmly Ellen eat her breakfast, and how impossible Edward and Frank found it to eat any. 66 Frank," said Ellen, very seriously, 66 pray eat something you will never be able to go through the day without it. There, take some ham and some chocolate, as Edward has the wisdom to do, or you will be ill." "We shall be in the shade, papa says," Frank replied. "I was not thinking of the sun. But-there is the trumpet. Yes, down they both go. Edward has taken his sandwich in his hand." Mr. Delville laughed. "No bad plan. But, Ellen, give me some biscuits: I will put them in my pocket. And now let us be off. Every sound of that instrument makes those foolish boys, like high-mettled horses, eager to start." They set off, and arrived in excellent time, at |