plished, but though anxious to get another peep of Irene's friend, whether from accident or design, I was never so fortunate. Neither those monks, though most of them are noble, wealthy, and well educated, nor I may say, any of the priesthood, are ever met with in the best society here. During a residence of three years, I only remember of having once met with a young decano, who came uninvited into the house of the mother of the beautiful musical lady, the Rossalmini. The cavalier Pesciolini addressing me, but looking at the priest, said, "When you see one of our holy men enter a house, it is either on account of the Dama, O la sua figbia, O la sua serva." The priest laughed heartily, but did not seem to amalgamate with the party, and soon left us. The cavalier always spoke of them with great disrespect, asserting that they were more corrupt than the laity; and though the gentlemen of Pisa, who are all given to intrigue, are exceedingly polite and accommodating to each other, they have evidently a perfect horror and hatred of the priests interfering with or balking their projects.

LETTER ELEVENTH.

PISA, August, 18-.

MY DEAR

SINCE I had last this pleasure, our dull abode, which may be said, indeed, to have nothing lively about it, excepting the champagne, has been a little stirred up by a new inmate sent here by my friend and banker Mr. B—, at Leghorn; a polite and amiable little Cockney, who has come to Italy for the benefit of his health, and having letters of credit on our Irish friend, has been persuaded to try a few months of this place, which is thought most congenial to valetudinarians with pulmonary complaints. Though neither educated nor intellectual, he is an exceedingly kind and companionable person, and so perfectly polite as never to intrude upon, or interrupt those of different habits, and having different objects to pursue. He, in fact, seems particularly adapted for the dolce farniente, so common in this region, as he does nothing whatever,

excepting talking, walking, dressing, sleeping, and keeping his nails in the nicest possible order. One thing I had almost forgot as an exception to the rule, he shows a considerable degree of energy every day in ascertaining what is to be for dinner; nay more, is upon the best terms with our old Polish cook, and being an adept himself in the gastronomic art, delights us often with some nice little dish of his own cooking. He has been ordered by his physician to move about as much as possible in the open air, and since his arrival I have seen more minutely the environs of this ancient city than during all the previous months. He has got a nice light carriage, and as an English nobleman, in passing through Pisa, left with our host a large beautiful chesnut coach horse, which had taken ill, but soon recovered, we attach him to the vehicle. I drive out my little friend every day to see anything that is interesting in the vicinity. Yesterday we rode to the Queen of Etruria's model farm, which is situated about two miles beyond the walls, close to the broad, rapid, yellow Arno. Though the country round is sadly parched by the protracted drought, the gardens there are luxuriant and beautiful, being, as well as the grounds, covered with a profusion of trees and plants, not to be seen except in the green-houses of our more northern clime. The fine grey cattle peculiar to Tuscany, and supposed to be the finest in Italy for the table, are feeding here

in herds. In the dairy and many other respects it resembles some of the first fancy farms in England, and I shall, therefore, only mention what I think will interest you as characteristic of the climate and country. On entering the long avenue we were amazed to see moving towards us, at a little distance, in the most quiet and orderly manner, about forty immense hay-stacks. After gazing at this phenomenon for some time, we observed to issue from the top of each mass a strangelooking whitish head of an animal, which kept perpetually turning about like a bird. On approaching nearer, and inquiring of a contadino who was passing, we discovered that the Queen kept about two hundred beautiful camels and dromedaries; and what had occasioned us so much surprise, was a long train of them conveying each a stack of the Queen's hay to market. Their loads are built upon the sagacious animal while kneeling, and such is their strength, that they can rise to their feet bearing a weight quite enormous. They were walking slowly to town with the greatest composure and docility, and are so intelligent that they required only two conductors for the whole forty camels. On proceeding a little farther down the long avenue, we observed to our left, a large quagmire nearly dried up, but retaining still a deep mass of moist white slime, in the midst of which both the good horse and ourselves were surprised and alarmed to observe five or six

immense animals weltering in, and evidently enjoying this delightful cool bath. On a nearer approach we perceived their fierce glaring eyes, their splendid horns, their strong muscular necks, and large bodies, which, when clean, are perfectly black, but were now encrusted with the slough which instinct informs the sagacious animal will protect him from the torturing flies and more dangerous insects. These were the buffaloes of the Queen of Etruria, her Majesty having several teams of those powerful animals, which, notwithstanding their fierceness, have been trained to the plough, have immense strength, and can endure the heat much better than either horses or oxen, particularly when decked in their favourite incrustation.

We were also much amused during our drive with the innumerable grasshoppers, as large as any twenty in England. The innocent green creatures kept jumping into the carriage in hundreds, and though they covered our clothes, and even cooled our noses, we did them no harm. Their long legs seem admirably formed for leaping an incredible distance; but, I presume, finding nothing to eat, they soon leapt out again. The Queen's pleasure-grounds are also covered with innumerable little harmless picturesque looking lizards. They are from four to six inches long, of a beautiful light green colour on the back, the lower part being yellow-four little legs with fingers, and formed, in