Basle Münster-Kirche - University Costume Automatic figure-Bishopric of Basle--Swiss disturbances after the late French Revolution-In the Canton of Basle, in 1833-Journey to Luzern-Storm on the Hauenstein--Olten-Lake of Sempach Luzern-Costumes-Fracas-Sketch of Swiss History-Helve- tii—Rhaeti —Romans-Burgundians-Alemanni-Ostrogoths -Franks-The Kingdoms of Lower, and Upper Burgundy, and of Arles and Burgundy-House of Zäbringen - Rudolph— Albert-The Three Swiss, and William Tell-Battle of Morgar- ten-Battle of Sempach-Swiss Confederation-Effect of French Revolution-Helvetic Republic-Act of Mediation-Restora- tion of Swiss Independence-Constitution of the Swiss Cantons SKETCHES ON THE CONTINENT, IN 1835. LETTER I. Voyage; and its contrast with one in August 1833-Landing in Belgium-Ostend-Siege of 1601-Travelling-Romanism in Belgium-Military mass at St. Peter's-English Church-Sunday Evening-Canal, and country-Bruges-Nunnery— Churches-Academy-Former prosperity, and subsequent decay of the city-Passage to Ghent-Superstition-Approach to Ghent-Ancient grandeur of Belgium-Ghent-Its vast size -Costume-Churches, and charge for funeral masses-Townhouse-Grand Mass at the Cathedral in honour of Leopold's accession-Splendour of the church-Costly pulpit-Anecdote of Napoleon and the Ghent clergy-Public library and garden -Charles V.'s cannon-Trade. MY DEAR FRIEND: An evening in July, 1835, saw our party on board the Earl of Liverpool steam-boat; with the advantage before us of sleep VOL. I. B ing away part of the voyage. I rose at an early hour, and found that we had advanced far down the river, and were rapidly gliding on, with the water as smooth as glass, and every prospect of a delightful passage to Ostend. How different the scene-when, two summers ago, some of us crossed the same sea, from Antwerp to the Thames, at the commencement of that awful storm which bestrewed the shores of the Channel with the wrecks of so many vessels, and caused so many human beings to drink death in the briny wave; and among the rest, the unhappy convicts who crowded the decks of the Amphitrite! -Then a wild, ominous blackness, and a chill whistling blast, at the outset of our voyage, were the presages of a sea that ran fearfully high, and swept over our deck, so as to imprison us all closely in the cabin; while the rapid and thundering pulsations of the steam-engine contending with the fury of the adverse winds and waves, the heaving and straining of the vessel, and her incessant rolling and clashing with the billows-added considerable apprehension of danger to the distressing malady of the sea.-Night then closed on an increasing storm, and the friendly beacons looked dim on the shore, long ere we were permitted to reach it-having escaped, by the gracious providence of Heaven, the more hair-breadth danger that awaited the passengers in the Talbot, from Ostend, whom the merest casualty had prevented us from joining; and who, after bearing all the brunt of the storm for two whole nights and the intervening day, were wrecked in the harbour from which they had set out; some being washed into the sea out of the small boat, though happily without loss of life. But now all was the reverse-a brilliant suna calm, luxurious atmosphere, breathing but a zephyr over the mighty expanse, without sensibly affecting the motion of the vessel; which moved so steadily along, that but for the sound of the rushing water, we might almost have imagined ourselves propelled across the surface of a vast solid mirror, whose varied and ever-changing tints blended beautifully with the reflected azure of the heavens. An agreeable company of between thirty and forty persons, the placid easy countenances of the helmsman and the sailors, and the quiet leisure air that pervaded the whole party, conspired with the weather to give a character to this voyage, in no way more formidable than that of a trip on the Clyde from Glasgow to Dumbarton, or from London to Richmond on the Thames. -The declining sun was pouring an undiminished flood of golden light upon the sea behind us, when our near approach to the low flat shore of OSTEND, and the foreign appearance of the church, the lighthouse, and the town-hall, announced that we had measured the gulf which has been the appointed guardian of Britain's independence; and has proved to her a more powerful defence than a rampart of Alps, or a standing army equal to the hosts of Xerxes. The distance from London is about one hundred and thirty miles, but land was not out of sight more than two or three. hours. This harbour is one of the finest in Europe: and the basin and the sluices, chiefly the work of Joseph II. of Austria, deserve notice. The town itself is very strongly fortified, recalling to the mind the deeds of war, of which it has been the sceneespecially that memorable siege, begun in 1601, which ended, after three years, in its capitulation to Albert of Austria, to whom the Netherlands were given with the Infanta of Spain, by Philip II. In enforcing the claim of Albert, 80,000 Spaniards perished in the trenches of Ostend; 50,000 of the inhabitants, and of the garrison, fell victims to famine, pestilence, and the sword; and the conquerors were at length masters, not of a town, but of a heap of ruins. Such is the devastation of war! The walk between the ramparts and the sea is magnificent, and is the great point of attraction during the bathing season; and the sea-view, along an extensive shore of sand, is exceedingly fine. The town is respectable in its appearance, and the |