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ged, and the bond re-demanded; which Macleod, who could not read, intending to put into his hands, gave him the conspiracy. The drover, when he had read the paper, delivered it privately to Macdonald, who being thus informed of his danger, called his friends together, and provided for his fafety. He made a public feast, and inviting Hugh Macdonald and his confederates, placed each of them at the table between two men of known fidelity. The compact of conspiracy was then shewn, and every man confronted with his
Macdonald acted with great moderation. He upbraided Hugh, both with difloyalty and ingratitude ; but told the rest, that he confidered them as men deluded and misinformed. Hugh was sworn to fidelity, and dismissed with his companions ; but he was not generous enough to be reclaimed by lenity; and finding no longer any countenance among the gentlemen, endeavoured to execute the same design by meaner hands. In this practice he was detected, taken to Macdonald's caltle, and imprisoned in the dungeon. When he was hungry, they let down a plentiful meal of salted meat; and when, after his repast, he called for drink, conveyed to him a covered cup, which, when he lifted the lid, he found empty. From that time they visited him no more, but left him to perish in folitude and darkness.
We were then told of a cavern by the sea-side, remarkable for the powerful reverberation of
sounds. After dinner we took a boat, to explore this curious cavity. The boatmen, who seemed to be of a rank above that of common drudges, inquired who the strangers were, and being told we came one from Scotland, and the other from Eng: land, asked if the Englithman could recount a long genealogy. What answer was given them, the conversation being in Erse, I was not much inclined to examine.
They expected no good event of the voyage; for, one of them declared that he heard the cry, of an English ghost. This omen I was not told till after our return, and therefore cannot claim the dig, nity of despising it.
The sea was smooth. We never left the shore, and came without
which we found rugged and milhapen, about one hundred and eighty feet long, thirty wide in the broadest part, and in the loftiest, as we guessed, about thir. ty high. It was now dry, but at high water the fea rises in it near fix feet. Here I saw what I had never seen before, limpets and muffels in their natural state. But, as a new testimony to the veracity of common fame, here was no echo to be heard.
We then walked through a natural arch in the rock, which might have pleased us by its novelty, had the stones, which encumbered our feet, given us leisure to consider it. We were shown the gum. my seed of the kelp, that fastens itself to a stone, from which it grows into a strong stalk.
In our return, we found a little boy upon the point of a rock, catching with his angle, a fupper for the family. We rowed up to him, and borrowed his rod, with which Mr Boswell caught a cuddy.
The cuddy is a fish of which I know not the philosophical name. It is not much bigger than a gudgeon, but is of great use in these Iflands, as it affords the lower people both food and oil for their l.nps. Cuddies are fo abundant, at some times of the year, that they are caught like whitebait in the Thames, only by dipping a basket and drawing it back.
If it were always practicable to fish, these Islands could never be in much danger from famine; but unhappily in the winter, when other provision fails, the seas are commonly too rough for nets, oc boats.
TALISKER IN SKY.
From Ulinish, our next stage was to Talisker, the houfe of colonel Macleod, an officer in the. Dutch service, who in this time of universal peace, has for feveral years been permitted to be absent from his regiment. Having been bred to phyfic, he is consequently a scholar, and his lady, by ac-. companying him in his different places of refidence, is become skilful in feveral languages. Talisker is
105 the place beyond all that I have seen, from which the gay and the jovial seem utterly excluded; and where the hermit might expect to grow old in meditation, without posibility of disturbance or interruption. It is situated very near the sea, but upon a coast where no vefsel lands but when it is driven by a tempest on the rocks. Towards the land are lofty hills streaming with water-falls. The garden is sheltered by firs, or pines, which grow there fo prosperously, that some, which the present inhabi. tant planted, are very high and thick.
At this place we very happily met Mr Donald Maclean, a young gentleman, the eldest son of the Laird of Col, heir to a very great extent of land, and so desirous of improving his inheritance, that he spent a considerable time among the farmers of Hertfordihire, and Hampshire, to learn their practice. He worked with his own hands at the principal operations of agriculture, that he might not deceive himself by a false opinion of skill, which if he should find it deficient at home, he had no means of completing. If the world has agreed to praise the travels and manual labours of the Czar of Muscovy, let Col have his share of the like applause, in the proportion of his dominions to the empire of Russia.
This young gentleman was sporting in the mountains of Sky, and when he was weary with following his game, repaired for lodging to Talisker. At night he missed one of his dogs, and when he went
to seek him in the morning, found two eagles feeding on his carcase.
Col, for he must be named by his poffeffions, hearing that our intention was to visit Jona, offered to conduct us to his chief, Sir Allan Maclean, who lived in the isle of Inch Kenneth, and would readily find us a convenient paffage. From this time was formed an acquaintance, which being begun by kindness, was accidentally continued by constraint; we derived much pleasure froin it, and I hope have given him no reason to repent it.
The weather was now almost one continued ftorm, and we were to snatch some happy intermiffion to be conveyed to Mull, the third island of the Hebrides, lying about a degree fouth of Sky, whence we might easily find our way to Inch Kenneth, where Sir Allan Maclean resided, and after'ward to Jona.
For this purpose, the most commodious station that we could take was Armidel, which Sir Alexander Macdonald had now left to a gentleman, who lived there as his factor or steward.
In our way to Armidel, was Coriatachan, where we had already been, and to which therefore we were very willing to return. We itaid however so long at Talisker, that a great part of our journey was performed in the gloom of the evening. In travelling even thus alınost without light thro' naked folitude, when there is a guide whose conduct may be trusted, a mind not naturally too