to fit down and drink whisky. She is religious, and though the kirk is four miles off, probably, eight English miles, fhe goes thither every Sunday.. We gave her a fhilling, and he begged fauff; for fouff is the luxury of a Highland cottage.

Soon afterwards we came to the General's Hut, fo called becaufe: it was the temporary abode of Wade while he fuperintended the works upon the road. It is now a house of entertainment for paf--fengers, and we found it not ill-stocked with pro-vifions.

FALL OF FIER S..

Towards evening we croffed, by a bridge,, the river which makes the celebrated fall of Fiers. The country at the bridge ftrikes the imagination with all the gloom and grandeur of Siberian folitude.. The way makes a flexure, and the mountains, covered with trees, rife at once on the left hand and in the front. We defired our guides to fhew us the fall, and difmounting clambered over very rugged craggs, till I began to wish that our curiofity might have been gratified with lefs trouble and danger. We came at laft to a place where we could overlook the river, and faw a channel torn, as it feems, through black piles of ftone, by which the fiream is obftructed and broken, till it comes to a very steep defcent, of fuch dreadful depth, that we were naturally inclined to turn afide our eyes.

But

But we visited the place at an unfeasonable time, and found it divefted of its dignity and terror. Nature never gives every thing at once. A long continuance of dry weather, which made the reft of the way eafy and delightful, deprived us of the pleasure expected from the fall of Fiers. The river having now no water but what the fprings supply, showed us only a fwift current, clear and fhallow, fretting over the afperities of the rocky bottom, and we were left to exercife our thoughts, by endeavouring to conceive the effect of a thoufand streams poured from the mountains into one channel, ftruggling for expanfion in a narrow paffage, exasperated by rocks rising in their way, and at laft discharging all their violence of waters by a fudden fail through the horrid chafin.

The way now grew lefs cafy, defcending by an uneven declivity, but without either dirt or danger. We did not arrive at Fort Auguftus till it was late. Mr Bofwell, who, between his father's merit, and his own, is fure of reception wherever he comes, fent a fervant before to beg admiffion and entertainment for that night. Mr Trapaud, the governor, treated us with that cour:efy which is fo clofely connected with the military character. He came out to meet us beyond the gates, and apologized that, at fo late an hour, the rules of a garrifon fuffered him to give us entrance only at the pollern..

FORT

FORT AUGUSTU S.·

In the morning we viewed the fort, which is much less than that of St George, and is faid to be commanded by the neighbouring hills. It was not long ago taken by the Highlanders. But its fituation feems well chofen for pleasure, if not for ftrength; it ftands at the head of the lake, and, by a floop of fixty tons, is fupplied from Inverness with great convenience.

We were now to cross the Highlands towards the western coaft, and to content ourfelves with fuch accommodations, as a way fo little frequented could afford. The journey was not formidable, for it was but of two days, very unequally divided, because the only houfe, where we could be entertained was not further off than a third of the way. We foon came to a high hill, which we mounted by a military road, cut in traverses, so that as we went upon a higher stage, we faw the baggage following us below in a contrary direction. To make this way, the rock has been hewn to a level with labour that might have broken the perfeverance of a Roman legion.

The country is totally denuded of its wood, but the ftumps both of oaks and firs, which are ftill found, fhew that it has been once a foreft of large timber. I do not remember that we faw any ani

mals,

mals, but we were told that, in the mountains, there are stags, roebucks, goats, and rabbits.

We did not perceive that this tract was poffeffed by human beings, except that once we faw a corn field, in which a lady was walking with fome gentlemen. Their houfe was certainly at no great distance, but fo fituated that we could not defcry it.

Paffing on through the dreariness of folitude, we found a party of foldiers from the fort, working on the road, under the fuperintendence of a ferjeant. We told them how kindly we had been treated at the garrifon, and as we were enjoying the benefit of their labours, begged leave to fhew our gratitude by a small prefent.

ANOCH.

Early in the afternoon we came to Anoch, a village in Glen-morrifon of three huts, one of which is diftinguished by a chimney. Here we were to dine and lodge, and were conducted through the first room, that had the chimney, into another lighted by a small glafs window. The landlord attended us with great civility, and told us what he could give us to eat and drink. I found fome books on a shelf, among which were a volume or more of Prideaux's Connection.

This I mentioned as fomething unexpected, and perceived that I did not pleafe him. I praised the propriety of his language, and was answered that I

need

need not wonder, for he had learned it by grammar.

By fubfequent opportunities of obfervation I found that my hoft's diction had nothing peculiar. Thofe Highlanders that can fpeak English, commonly speak it well, with few of the words, and little of the tone by which a Scotchman is diftinguished. Their language feems to have been learned in the army or the navy, or by fome communication with thofe who could give them good examples of accent and pronunciation. By their Lowland neighbours they would not willingly be taught; for they have long confidered them as a mean and degenerate race. These prejudices are wearing faft away; but fo much of them ftill remains, that when I asked a very learned minister in the islands, which they confidered as their most favage clans?"Thofe, faid he, that live next the "Lowlands."

As we came hither early in the day, we had time fufficient to furvey the place. The houfe was built like other huts, of loofe ftones, but the part in which we dined and flept was lined with turf and wattled with twigs, which kept the earth from falling. Near it was a garden of turnips and a field of potatoes. It ftands in a glen, or valley, pleasantly watered by a winding river. But this country, however it may delight the gazer or amufe the naturalift, is of no great advantage to its Our landlord told us of a gentleman,

owners.

who