This practice is disused; for the birds, as is known often to happen, have changed their haunts.

Here we dined at a public house, I believe the only inn of the ifland, and having mounted our horses, travelled in the manner already described, till we came to Kingsborough, a place distinguishcd by that name, because the King lodged here when he landed at Port Re. We were entertained with the usual hofpitality by Mr Macdonald and his lady Flora. Macdonald, a. name that will be mentioned in hiftory, and, if courage and fidelity bc virtues, mentioned with honour. She is a wo-. man of middle ftature, foft features, gentle man- . ners, and elegant presence.

In the morning we sent our horses round a promontory to meet us, and spared ourselves part of the day's fatigue, by crossing an arm of the fea. We had at last fome difficulty in coming to Dunvegan :

led over an extensive. moor, where every step was to be taken with caution, and we were often obliged to alight, because the ground could not be trusted. In travelling this watery flat, I perceived that it had a visible declia vity, and might without much expence or difficul ty be drained.

But difficulty and expence are relative terms, which have different meanings irr different places.

To Dunvegan we came, very willing to be at rest; and found our fatigue amply recompensed by our reception. Lady Macleod, who had livet


for our way

many years in England, was newly come hither with her son and four daughters, who knew all the arts of fouthern elegance, and all the modes of Englith economy. Here therefore we settled, anul did not spoil the present hour with thoughts of departure.

Dunvegan is a rocky prominence, that juts out into a bay, on the west side of Sky. The house, which is the principal seat of Macleoci, is partly old, and partly modern ; it is built upon the rock, and looks


the water. It forms two sides of a {mail square : on the third fide is the skeleton of a caitle of unknown antiquity, supposed to have been a Norwegian fortress, when the Danes were masters of the islands. It is so nearly entire, that it might have easily been made habitable, were there not an ominous tradition in the family, that the owner ihall not long outlive the reparation.

The grandfather of the prefent Laird, in defiance of prediction, began the woris, but defifted in a little time, and applied his money to worse uses.

As the inhabitants of the Hebrides lived for ma.. ny ages, in continual expectation of hostilities, the chief of every clan resided in a fortress. This house was accessible only from the water, till the lait poiletfor opened an entrance by stairs upon the land.

They had formerly reason to be afraid, not only of declared wars and authorised invaders, or of

roving pirates, which, in the northern seas, must have been very common; but of inroads and insults from rival clans, who, in the plenitude of feudal independence, asked no leave of their Sovereign to make war on one another. Sky has been ravaged by a feud between the two mighty powers of Macdonald and Macleod. Macdonald having married a Macleod, upon some discontent dismissed her, perhaps because she had brought him no children. Before the reign of James the Fifth, a Highland Laird made a trial of his wife för a certain time, and if the did not please him, he was then at liberty to fend her away. This, however, must always have offended, and Macleod resenting the injury, whatever were its circumstances, decla-. red, that the wedding had been solemnized without a bonfire, but that the separation fhould be better illuminated; and raising a little army set fire to the territories of Macdonald, who returned the visit and prevailed.

Another story may show the disorderly state of insular neighbourhood. The inhabitants of the Ifle of Egg, meeting a boat manned by Macleods, tied the crew hand and foot, and set them a-drist. Macleod landed upon Egg, and demanded the offend. ers; but the inhabitants refusing to surrender them, retreated to a cavern, into which they thought their enemies unlikely to follow them. Macleod choked them with smoke, and left them lying dead by families as they stood.


Here the violence of tie weather confined us for Tome time, not at all to our discontent or inconconvenience. We would indeed very willingly have visited the islands which might be seen from the house scattered in the sea, and I was particularly desirous to have viewed Isay; but the storms did not permit us tolaunch a boat, and we were condemned to listen in idleness to the wind, except when we were better engaged by listening to the ladies.

We had here more winds than waves, and suffered the severity of the tempeít, without enjoying its magnificence. The fea being broken by the multitude of islands, does not roar with so much noise, nor beat the storm with such foamy violence, as I have remarked on the coast of Sussex. Though, while I was in the Hebrides, the wind was extremely turbulent, I never saw very high billows. The country about Dunvegan is rough and barren. There are no trees, except in the orchard, which is a low sheltered fpot surrounded with a wall,

When this house was intended to sustain a siege, a well was made in the court, by boring the rock downwards, till water was found, which, though so near to the sea, I have not heard mentioned as brackish, though it has some hardness, or other qualities, which make it less fit for use; and the family is now better fupplied from a stream,


which runs by the rock, from two pleasing waterfalls.

Here we saw some traces of former manners, and heard some standing traditions. In the house is kept an ox's horn, hollowed so as to hold perhaps two quarts, which the heir of Macleod was expected to fwallow at one draught, as a test of his manbood, before he was permitted to bear arms, or could claim a feat among the men. It is held the return of the Laird to Dunvegan, after any considerable absence, produces a plentiful capture of herrings, and that, if any woman crosses the water to the opposite island, the herrings will desert the coast. Boetius tells the same of some other place. This tradition is not uniform. Some hold that no woman may pass, and others that none may pass but a Macleod.

Among other guests which the hospitality of Dunvegan brought to the table, a visit was paid by the Laird and Lady of a small island south of Sky, of which the proper name is Muack, which fignifies Sacine.

It is commonly called Muck, which the proprietor not liking, has endeavoured, without effect, to change to Xlunk. It is usual to call gentlemen in Scotiand by ihe name of their possessions, as Raafay, Bernera, Loch Buy ; a practice necessary in countries inhabited by clans, where all that live in the fame territory have one name, and must be therefore discriminated by scine addition. This


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