to Low Wood, and thence to Ambleside. Before arriving at Low Wood, a view is had, of which Professor Wilson writes: There is not such another prospect in all England. The lake has much the character of a river, without losing its own. The islands are seen almost lying together in a cluster; below which all is loveliness and beauty; above, all majesty and grandeur. Bold or gentle promontories break all the banks into frequent bays, seldom without a cottage or cottages embowered in trees; and, while the landscape is of a sylvan kind, parts of it are so laden with woods, that you see only here and there a wreath of smoke, but no houses, and could almost believe that you are gazing on the primeval forests." Ambleside to Kendal, and back by the Long Sled- A pleasant day's excursion may be had by taking the train from Windermere to Kendal, going thence up the Long Sleddale Valley, and returning to Ambleside by crossing over the fells to Kentmere, and from Kentmere to Troutbeck and Windermere. The whole journey is practicable for carriages. Kendal is the principal market-town in Westmorland, although Appleby is the ancient county-town. It is situated on the river Kent, contains 13,446 inhabitants, and sends one member to Parliament. The principal hotels are the King's Arms, the Commercial, and the Crown. The town is built of mountain limestone, which abounds in fossils, and is obtained in great abundance from the neighbouring fells. This material is quarried out in large blocks, and being susceptible of a high polish, is also extensively used in the manufacture of chimney-pieces. Kendal is of great antiquity, but has now a modern appearance. Formerly it was famous for the manufacture of a coarse woollen cloth called "Kendal Green," mentioned in many of the works D of our old writers, and in the old ballad minstrelsy. This cloth is no longer made, and the principal articles manufactured are blankets, railway wrappers, and carpets. The Parish Church deserves a visit. It is an ancient Gothic structure with five aisles, and contains curious monuments and epitaphs. At the E. end are three private chapels, which belonged to the neighbouring families of the Stricklands, the Bellinghams, and the Parrs. The Natural History Society's Museum is also worthy of notice. It contains a collection of antiquities, of natural history, and of fossils from the neighbouring limestone. No charge is made for admittance, but an order must be obtained from a member of the Society. Kendal Castle, the seat of the ancient Barons of Kendal, and the birthplace of Catharine Parr, the last Queen of Henry VIII., is now a ruin comprising only four broken towers, and part of the outer wall. It stands on a grassy knoll on the E. side of the town, and commands a pleasing and extensive prospect. Watercrook, 1m. from Kendal, where some relics have been found, is supposed to have been a Roman station. Upon a large artificial mound opposite the Castle, on the W. side of the town, is an obelisk in commemoration of the revolution of 1688. The mound is believed to be of Saxon origin, and to have been one of those hills upon which justice was administered. About 14m. S.W. of the town is an escarpment of limestone rock which contains numerous fossils, and commands a striking view of the southern part of the Lake District. On leaving Kendal for the Long Sleddale Valley, the turnpike-road which leads to Penrith and Carlisle must be followed for 4m. This ground is not very interesting until the river Sprint is seen below on the left, flowing from Long Sleddale, the deep, narrow valley into which the tourist passes by a branch road descending the hill. At the bobbin-mill a small bridge spans the stream; but the traveller, instead of crossing it, must follow the road up the valley, having the beck on his left hand. When the writer first entered this vale, he was surprised on being informed by a resident that it did not contain a single public-house, shop, or tradesman. It is free from the intrusion of art, but lacks the wild grandeur of some of the other valleys. A few cottages embowered by trees lie scattered over the vale. The stream flows through meadows in a smooth, uninteresting course, and on the sides of the low heathcovered hills are here and there patches of rock and wood. At the head of the dale Goat Scar is very prominent, exhibiting a bleakness which forcibly contrasts with the tamer scenery through which the tourist is travelling. The church is passed, and the highest houses at Sadgill Bridge, 10m. from Kendal, are reached. At Little London, m. below Sadgill, the geologist will be interested by following the right-hand streamlet for a few hundred yards to a lime kiln. Here is exposed a thin bed of limestone, which can be traced all the way across the fells to the W. of Coniston. Those who have time, and desire an interesting walk through a wildly-picturesque district, ought to add 6m. to the day's excursion, and ascend the Gatescarth Pass (1950) at the head of the glen. The track can be seen from Sadgill. It is a rough cart-road which passes between Harter Fell and Branstree, and descends to Mardale Green and Haweswater. When a short distance down the pass on the Mardale side, Small Water Tarn and the Nan Bield Pass (2100) may be reached by crossing to the W., directly under the rocky front of Harter Fell. A most interesting walk leads down from the Nan Bield Pass, by the side of the Reservoir, to the Kentmere village. The scenery at the head of Kentmere is wild and striking. If this delightful mountain walk be considered too fatiguing, the tourist may cross from Sadgill to Kentmere village by following a rough cart-road, which leads over the heath-covered hill separating the Long Sleddale and Kentmere vales. When ascending from Long Sleddale the stratum of limestone is observed in the gill on the left. During the descent into Kentmere, fine views are had of the Ill Bell and High Street ranges of hills, which stand at the head of the valley. The Low Bridge Inn is reached without difficulty. It stands close to the river Kent, and within a few yards of the church. From the inn a road leads down the valley to Staveley, along a flat, uninteresting tract of country. The lower part of Kentmere being very tame, offers quite a contrast to the noble and picturesque scenery at its upper end. On leaving the inn and passing the church, the tourist, before proceeding farther, ought to stroll to Kentmere Hall, which stands a few hundred yards to the left, the birthplace of Bernard Gilpin, one of the Reformers, who was known as "The Apostle of the North." Close to the hall is an ancient ivy-covered tower. It is a picturesque object, and can be ascended by winding stone steps. From the church a cart-road leads under some fine crags, ascends the hill, passes a few limestone rocks, and crosses the flat moorland tract to the Troutbeck Vale. Mountains to the W. gradually appear, and then the Troutbeck village is seen seated on the side of Wansfell Pike. The valley is crossed, and Ambleside entered by Low Wood. Drive round Windermere Lake. Wray Castle, 3m.; Ferry Hotel, 7m.; Newby Bridge, 14m.; Beech Hill, 184m.; Bowness, 22m.; Ambleside, 28m. A good carriage-road runs round Windermere Lake, which, in some places, skirts the shore, and never considerably diverges from it. The southern half of the lake, between the Ferry and Newby Bridge, is not very interesting, and therefore most tourists will cross at the Ferry, and thus shorten the journey to 14m. After Leave Ambleside by the Clappersgate road. crossing the bridge which spans the Rothay, the pleasant little village of Clappersgate is reached. Here turn to the left and cross the Brathay Bridge. The road now passes through a well-timbered district, at the head of Pull Wyke Bay, and then branches at the point where a guide-post directs to Coniston and to Hawkshead. Take the Hawkshead road, to the left. Glimpses are caught at different points of the Langdale Pikes and Coniston Mountains. A few hundred yards farther the road again branches; the one to the right leading to Hawkshead. The left-hand road, which must be followed, leads to Wray Castle. Near to the Castle, on the opposite side of the road, is seen Blelham Tarn. It contains trout, but is not a very picturesque sheet of water. Here the Coniston and Wetherlam heights are conspicuous, and looking in the opposite direction the Rydal, Scandale and Stockdale vales are spread out to view. The road now slightly ascends, and at the little church connected with Wray Castle, it is well to leave the main road and pass through a gate on the left into a car-road which leads to the shore of the lake. It is a private way, but the public are allowed the use of it. When the lake is reached, Low Wood Hotel is directly opposite, and presently, on looking up the lake, a good view is had of Wray Castle and of Ambleside, at the foot of the Fairfield range. The road keeps at the very edge of the lake, and on passing through a gate, Bowness comes in sight in front; and on the left, at the foot of Orrest Head, Windermere village, Rigg's Hotel, and Elleray. It is a charming drive all the way from Wray Castle to the Ferry, the road being close to the water, and at the base of a thickly-wooded hill. On reaching the point opposite Belle Isle, and a lot of smaller islands, which break the lake into a number of pretty bays, a retrospective view includes Troutbeck Vale, with the small hill called the Tongue, in the centre of the vale, and Ill Bell on the right of it. Presently the Ferry promontory is reached, where stands the Ferry Hotel, a snug place to loiter a while. It commands fine views up and down the lake. A pleasure-house, called the Station, accessible by a short and agreeable walk from the inn, commands |