the small lakes of Doin and Voil. In the churchyard of Balquiddar is shown the tombstone of the famous Rob Roy, who spent the last days of his life at the upper end of Loch-Voil. His escape in crossing the river, as related in the celebrated novel bearing his name, is said to have actually occurred, and in the manner recorded. A party, headed by the duke of Montrose, having succeeded in capturing him, he was fastened on the saddle behind Graham of Gartnafuorach, who, unable to withstand the captive's remonstrances, slipped the belt at a spot where the fragments of rock precluded the possibility of any horseman being able to follow him. The arms on his tombstone are a fir crossed by a sword, supporting a crown, denoting his relationship with the royal line of Stuart.

Lochearn Head, where there is an excellent inn, is a favourite resting-place for tourists, and the lake is surpassed by few in all the mingled characteristics of Highland scenery. It is a "miniature and model of scenery which might well occupy ten times its space." At this point, all its peculiar beauties appear as if condensed into a space, so circumscribed, as to place them immediately before the eye. Its mountains rise in majestic simplicity to the sky, terminating in bold, and various, and rocky outlines, enriched with precipices and masses of protruding rock, with chasms and ravines, and the channels of innumerable torrents, which pour from above, and, as they descend, become skirted with trees till they lose themselves in the waters of the lake.

Loch-Tay, the next lake in our route, is about fifteen miles in length, by one in breadth. Among the lofty chain of mountains by which it is encompassed on the north, Benlawers, the Colossus of Perthshire, presents an elevation of more than four thousand feet. Killin, a small Highland village near the junction of the Lochy and Dochart, and embellished with two picturesque islets formed by the river, is proverbial for its striking scenery. It is a perfect picturegallery of itself, says Dr. Macculloch, since we cannot move three yards without meeting a new landscape. In addition to its fame as an admirable station. for the artist, Killin is the reputed sepulchre of Fingal.

*

On the north side of the plain are the picturesque ruins of Finlarig Castle, an ancient seat of the Braidalbane family, overgrown with ivy, and crowning a broad, low mound with an avenue of stately sycamores, leading into the park. Immediately adjoining this ancient berçeau, is the family buryingvault.

Between Killin and Kenmore the scenery, throughout, is of a bold and striking character; and the tourist has the choice of two roads, skirting the

• See his detailed account,

right and left banks of the lake, which assumes the appearance of a magnificent river, winding gracefully between its mountain shores, all finely embellished with woods, and enlivened with cottages or cultivated farms, which contrast well with the wild landscape from which they have been reclaimed by the labour and ingenuity of man. The village of Kenmore, occupying the slope of a small peninsula at the lower extremity of the lake, is highly picturesque in situation and appearance. Its cottages, festooned with sweet-brier, honeysuckle, and wild roses-its white church spire rising in the centre-the lake sparkling above, and mountains and forests extending their mingled shadows beyond, offer a most inviting subject for the pencil. On the north is a handsome bridge of several arches, spanning the "lordly Tay;" and beyond, a small wooded island, in which Sibylla, queen of Alexander I., lies interred.

The scenery of Taymouth-more particularly that portion which immediately surrounds the castle-is of the richest description, and, to the traveller who approaches it from the wilder districts of the north, appears like an Elysium reposing in the lap of horror.

"Hic secura quies, et nescia fallere vita,

Dives opum variarum; hic latis otia fundis.
Speluncæ, vivique lacus; hic frigida Tempe,
Mugitusque boum, mollesque sub arbore somni."

The view from the vista-fort in the face of the hill, and directly fronting the castle, is universally admired. In the centre of the landscape, the lake opens on the spectator; on the left, two long mountain slopes, partly wooded, rise in successive stages from the water; to the right, Drummond Hill displays its flanks, surging downwards with undulating forests; the gigantic summit of Benlawers towers up from behind; and at the extremity of the range rises the cone of lofty Benmore. On the fore-ground, the village, bridge, lake, and island, are seen beautifully grouped, and thus complete one of the finest landscapes in the United Kingdom.*

Glenlyon, remarkable for its scenery, and no less for its traditions, will amply recompense the tourist, who has time and inclination to explore its recesses; and for this a single morning will suffice, as the more striking objects

• On the north side of the river is the Valley of Fortingal, in the churchyard of which is an enormous yew-tree-much older than the famous linden of Fribourg. About a century ago, the trunk was single, and measured fifty-six feet in girth. It now consists of two stems, the largest of which is quite hollow, and measures thirty-two feet. This is a vegetable production which may vie with the famous Sicilian chestnut di cento cavalli.

lie within the compass of a few miles. This glen holds a distinguished place in the native songs and superstitions of Braidalbane

"Somnia, terrores magicos, miracula, sagas,

Nocturnos lemures, portentaque Thessala rides ?"—

This is the principal seat of the marquess of Braidalbane, whose family possessions occupy a tract of seventy miles in length. The castle is a magnificent specimen of modern architecture; and, surrounded by a park stocked with deer, and embellished in the richest style of landscape gardening, forms a superb and princely residence.

In following the right bank of the Tay, the most prominent object in the route, after quitting Taymouth, is Menzies Castle, planted at the foot of a lofty range of rocky hills, rising in successive grades like an amphitheatre, fortified. with precipices shaded with woods, and watered by mountain torrents. The park is rich in ancient timber, and commands delicious vistas over the adjacent country. Aberfeldy, so pleasingly associated with the charms of Scottish song, is a village of the first class, and celebrated for its fine series of water-falls, in which respect it is a miniature of the Swiss Meyringhen. In the deep In the deep "birchen dell" of Moness, in which they occur, on either hand, rise high sloping banks, with a rich garniture of trees; where, soothed with the murmur of waters and the melody of birds, the visitor may indulge a pleasing day's reverie.

"When simmer blinks on flowery braes,
And o'er the crystal streamlet plays;
How sweet to spend the lightsome days
In the Birks of Aberfeldy !"

Three miles below Aberfeldy, Grandtully Castle-a domestic fortress of the olden time, and still a habitable as well as hospitable mansion-is a prominent object in the landscape. Logie-rait, at the confluence of the Tay and Tummel, is rendered classical as the birthplace of Dr. Adam Ferguson; but the scenery, till we arrive in the precincts of Dunkeld, is comparatively tame. Here, however, the aspect of nature is changed, and all that can fascinate the eye, or feast the imagination, is lavished around with unlimited profusion. In point of situation, and in all those natural and artificial accessories which enter into the usual descriptions of an earthly paradise, Dunkeld has scarcely a rival. Those who have once visited its enchanting scenery will leave it with regret, and often long to renew the acquaintance.

"Hic manus ob patriam pugnando vulnera passi,

Quique pii vates, et Phobo digna locuti."