KINFAUNS.-GLAMMIS CASTLE.

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became terrible to all seafaring people as a remorseless pirate. Sir William Wallace, however, in his voyage to France, having met and encountered this formidable giaour, took him prisoner, and pleased with that kindred spirit of heroism, which would have immortalized the reaver in a better cause, presented him to the French king as a suppliant for mercy. Philip, who was pleased to have an occasion of obliging the Scottish hero, and of exhibiting a signal instance of his royal clemency, cancelled the sentence of outlawry, and conferred on his penitent subject the honour of knighthood. Thus restored to court favour, and to society, Charteris accompanied Wallace to Scotland, where he ever after remained his steady friend, and a frank participator in all his daring exploits. When Wallace was betrayed and carried into England, and Bruce asserted his right to the Scottish crown, Charteris was the first that followed him into the water at the taking of Perth, in January 1313, and in reward for his bravery, received a royal grant of the estate of Kinfauns.

*

Pitfour, Kinnaird, and Castle Huntley, are magnificent mansions, combining all the advantages of situation with the embellishments of art. But of these, and many others with which this district is richly adorned, our limits will not permit us to enter into any description.†

Glancing at the valley of Strathmore, the first objects that arrest attention are the dramatic scene of Dunsinnan-hill, and Glammis Castle. The latter, in point of antiquity and historical interest, is one of the most remarkable structures in the kingdom. Although much dilapidated and dimmed in its original splendour, its feudal air of strength and haughty defiance, and its sullen gloom of seclusion in an antique forest, render it a subject peculiarly adapted for the pencil, and for exciting the imagination of the poet. We shall not detain the reader with the recent changes that have altered, but not detracted, from the dignity of this stately fortalice, but the following account will show what it was a century ago. "Entering Strathmore," says an anonymous traveller, "we arrived at the palace of Glammis, belonging to Lyon, earl of Strathmore, which, by its many turrets and gilded balustrades at the top, struck us with awe and admiration. It stands in the middle of a well-planted park, with avenues branching off in all directions from the house. The great avenue-thickly planted on each side, and entered by a massive gate-way, with offices of free

• See the Statist. Acc. and Family Hist.

For the pedestrian who would see the Carse and its adjacent scenery in perfection, the best road is that along the heights, or braes of the Carse, which command the whole valley, the river, and the populous shores of Fife. As a central point in this route, the manse of Kinnaird might be selected as that which combines the greatest number of striking features. From this station, too, the traveller will trace no small resemblance to the Tuscan Val d'Arno already mentioned.

stone on each side, like a little town-leads through a space of half a mile to the outer court, within which are statues as large as life. On the great gate of the inner court, are balustrades of stone, finely adorned with statues; and in the court, four colossal statues -one of James VI. in his stole, another of Charles I., as he is usually painted by Vandyk. From this court we have a full prospect of the gardens on each side, cut into grass-plots, and adorned with evergreens. The house is the highest we have ever seen, consisting of a lofty tower in the middle, with two wings, and a tower at each end—the whole above two hundred feet broad. The stairs, from the entrance hall to the top of the house, consist of one hundred and forty-three steps, of which those of the great staircase, where five people can mount abreast, are eighty-six, each step of a single block. In the first floor are thirty-eight rooms with fire-places; the hall is adorned with family pictures, and behind this is a handsome chapel, with an organ. On the altar is a fine painting of the Last Supper,' and on the ceiling an 'Ascension,' by De Wit, a Dutchman, whom Earl Patrick brought from Holland, and who painted the ceilings of most of the rooms. In the drawing-room next to the hall is an excellent portrait of Queen Mary, of Medina, the Pretender's' mother, with several others of the principal Scottish nobility; and over the chimney, a curious Italian scripture piece. When the Pretender was here on a visit, besides the state chamber, eighty-eight beds were made up for his retinue, besides the servants, who were lodged in the offices out of doors."

On the Hunters' Hill, an eminence which overlooks Glammis, Malcolm II. is said to have been attacked by assassins; and tradition still points out the chamber in the castle where the unfortunate monarch died of his wounds. To the readers of Shakspeare it would be superfluous to state how Macbeth became master of Glammis, and this stronghold and the usurper so closely associated. In the armoury of the castle-a museum well stored with antiquities that recall the "pomp and circumstance" of their feudal possessors-are the sword and shirt of mail worn by Macbeth-and, among others of modern date, the arms with which the earl of Strathmore fell on the field of Sheriffmoor, are exhibited to visitors. The castle is in all respects an object of interest, not only on account of its traditions, but as one of the finest specimens of feudal architecture now existing; and combines, in a striking manner, the gloom of prison security with the grandeur of a 'palace.

Among the melancholy associations connected with this castle, is the fate of the beautiful Lady Glammis, who fell a victim to that horrid superstition which, in a barbarous age, brought so many unhappy beings to the stake. In pursuance of the sentence which had pronounced her guilty of witchcraft, she

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was publicly burnt* on the Castle-hill of Edinburgh, and met her doom with a fortitude and composure which, added to her youth and beauty, made a strong impression upon the multitude, and left an additional stigma on the legislation. of her day.

Before taking leave of Perthshire—of which, as premised, we have offered only an imperfect gleaning-we return to the district of Athol, in which Blair Castle and the Pass of Killicrankie are the commanding objects. The former of these, the ancient residence of the dukes of Athol, stands on an extensive plain, known as the blair, or vale of Athol; and, in point of strength and situation, was well calculated to serve as a post of defence. With such facility, and being the only fortress commanding the Pass, it was repeatedly taken and garrisoned by the rival armies, which alternately lost and won this key to the Highlands. It was besieged and taken by Montrose, in consequence of its garrison having presumed to check his progress. Colonel Daniel, an officer in Cromwell's army, took it by storm ten years later; and in 1689, it occasioned, what was justly termed the most important event of the day, the battle of Killicrankie. In the last rebellion, its garrison, under the command of Sir Andrew Agnew, foiled the rebels in two several attempts to reduce it. But at last, the noble proprietor seeing that he had little prospect of ever enjoying domestic tranquillity whilst the mansion was in a condition to serve as a rallying post in every civil commotion, dismantled its towers, lowered it by three stories, and reduced the warlike fortress of his ancestors into a common-place family residence. By this decisive measure, it has gained in security what it lost in picturesque effect; and, in these peaceful times, with its magnificent curtain of umbrageous woods and mountains, watered by two rivers, embellished by the hand of art, and stocked with every species of wild game, from the roebuck to the ptarmigan, it presents one of the most attractive domains in Scotland.

The Pass of Killicrankie, which communicates with the Blair of Athol, stretches for the space of a mile or upwards along the termination of the river Garry. The hills rise from the bed of the river in steep gradation, flanking it on the western bank with a precipitous wall. The bold rocks, lining its channel, are mantled over with masses of waving birch, ash, and oak-the light and graceful foliage of which, moving and changing its hues with every breeze,

Speaking of the indifference with which we pronounce the words, "burnt alive!" an able writer has well remarked-" Brulés vifs! on lit sans y penser ces expressions si courtes, qu'on est tant habitué à voir dans les martyrologes. Mais conçoit-on bien ce que c'est ! se sentir enchaîné et la flamme vous atteindre la peau s'écailler; la chair irritée décrépiter et se fendre; les muscles se tordre dans les membres; le sang faire effervescence sur les tisons, lorsqu'une veine éclate: puis, enfin la mort qui vous arrive dans un air ardent et méphitique."-Muston, liv. i. 62.

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contrasts finely with the bleak crags that start at intervals through its leafy screen, and at length soar into the abrupt and rugged outline of Ben-Vracky. The situation of Fascally-house, at the entrance to the Pass, is singularly romantic.

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This Pass, in reference to its military history, has been styled the Scottish Thermopyla," and, till the present road was constructed, might have been called with no less propriety the "Via-Mala" of Scotland. But the dangers of the Pass, which contributed not a little to its "sublimity," have disappeared with the progress of art, and those unprecedented facilities of intercourse which have been thrown open by modern enterprise. The circumstances by which it gained so important a station in history, are these:-General Mackay, with the design of intimidating the district of Blair-Athol into measures favourable to the revolution under King William, directed his whole force upon this point. When the Viscount Dundee, who supported the interest of King James with a body of the Clans, had reached Blair, he was informed that General Mackay had already entered the Pass of Killicrankie, and was momentarily expected at the head of a numerous force. Dundee, whose intrepidity was proverbial, and his influence over the minds of his Highland followers unlimited, resolved to meet his adversary at the mouth of the Pass. With this determination, he drew up his Highland force, explained in pithy phrase the emergency to which he was reduced, told them a bright day had dawned upon them at last, and that now their Highland broad-swords must open them a path to victory. His well-known voice was answered by shouts of loyalty and devotion to the cause, and the next minute, while the Highland bagpipe screamed its shrill note of defiance, the whole body moved rapidly forward to the Pass.

A brief march brought the generals in sight of each other; the troops hastily formed as they debouched from the rocky defile; a furious volley of musquetry announced their mutual recognition, and the Highlanders, armed with sword and target, and seizing the momentary pause, rushed down upon the "redcoats" as the soldiers were contemptuously styled-with a confidence and impetuosity that carried every thing before them. The troops, who were chiefly composed of raw levies, were paralysed by this sudden appeal to close quarters; and, unable to stem the charge, fell under the blows of the Highland broad-sword and Lochaber axe, or fled like fragments scattered from the disjointed mass. Others, with better success, met the unwonted charge with serried bayonets, against which the Highlander dashed with reckless impatience, placed his target in front, entangled his adversary's steel, and then, springing

BATTLE OF KILLICRANKIE.-VISCOUNT DUNdee.

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forward into the lines, slew or disarmed an enemy at every stroke. Thus beset by a continued rush of undisciplined troops, the soldiers could make no effective use of their fire-arms. The centre and left wing of Mackay's troops had been completely broken; but the right wing still maintained its ground, and, like a stately column, stood erect amid the ruin of its fellows. This caught the eye of Dundee: hastily rallying his horsemen for this important object, he made a desperate charge upon the stubborn mass; but at the very moment that he had brought them to the assault and raised his arm to strike, a bullet whistled through the thick mass of his attendants, and lodged in his body. A violent "imprecation" escaped his lips, and the next minute the chief lay expiring in the arms of his devoted followers.*

On the bleak surface of the moors stretching along the frontiers of Perth and Inverness, many pillars and cairns-memorials of those who have perished in the snow or fallen in battle-give melancholy interest to the scene. At Dalnaspidal, are the remains of an encampment occupied by Cromwell's troops. Here, also, in the last rebellion, General Cope drew up his army in expectation of an attack, but quitting his position to continue his march northward, threw open the Pass to the Highlanders. This ground is still further remarkable as the scene of certain exploits, in speaking of which, says General Stewart, of Garth, "I know not if the whole of the Peninsular campaigns exhibited a more complicated piece of military service." A battalion of the Athol brigade-common peasants, and a few country gentlemen, without military experience-under Lord George Murray's directions, "surprised and carried twenty detached, strong and defensible posts, all within two hours of the night; and the different parties engaged in this daring enterprise, met punctually at the appointed place of rendezvous, although their operations lay in a rugged and mountainous country. Lord George had himself marched to the bridge of Bruar with only twenty-five men, and a few elderly gentlemen, when he was informed that Sir Andrew Agnew, who held the Castle of Blair, was advancing with a strong force to

Thus fell the "gallant Dundee !"—or, as he was designated by the Covenanters, the "bloody Clavers" -a man whom historians have depicted under the most opposite colours; one set representing him as a Castro-Caro, or a Pianessa,⚫ the other as a second Bayard; but both agreeing in ascribing to him that military tact and fearless intrepidity, which made him the idol of one party, and the terror of the other. His death completely neutralized the victory; the Clans dispersed, and Mackay was suffered to retire with the wreck of his forces. An obelisk marks the scene of battle, and stands on the spot where Dundee received his death wound. It may be superfluous to remind the reader of the celebrated novel, in which the character of " Dundee" is so vividly portrayed. The songs, commemorative of this battle, have been long popular.

• See the History of the Waldenses, (the "Covenanters" of Piedmont,) in the persecution of whom these individuals were so infamously distinguished.