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-the ancient stronghold of the same illustrious family-which was burnt at the close of the last rebellion, that disastrous period so often referred to, and which so many objects in this country serve to perpetuate. Over a well in the neighbourhood a small monument commemorates the following fact, highly characteristic of the lawless period to which it relates.

The laird of Keppoch, having sent his two sons to be educated in France, died during their absence, and left the management of his affairs to the care of seven brothers, men of his own clan. Thus placed in a station of unexpected authority, these kinsmen relished the advantages it afforded them better than became men of honour, and resolved to insure its continuance at every risk. But as the heir of Keppoch still remained in France, they suffered no interruption for a considerable time. At length, the young laird and his brother, having returned home to take possession of their inheritance, were waylaid and murdered on the very night of their arrival. The perpetrators of the foul deed evaded for some time the strong arm of justice; but the family bard succeeded at last in drawing down upon them that vengeance which they so richly merited. Having failed in several appeals to other clans, he finally addressed himself to Macdonald of the Isles. Receiving from that source what aid he required, he overtook the murderers in the midst of their guilty career, and, in the manner recorded,* avenged the untimely death of the young chief and his brother.

In this mountainous country, Ben-Nevis is to the Celtic, what Mont Blanc is to the Savoy Alps-the monarch of the chain. It is estimated at four thousand three hundred and seventy feet above the level of the sea, which approaches to within three quarters of a mile of the stupendous mass. The labour of ascending this colossus of the waste is well repaid by the majestic features presented to the tourist as he climbs from crag to crag, and observes at every pause the scene expanding before him. But when he reaches the summit, the vast panorama which then opens upon him, fills the mind with ideas to which no words can give utterance. If the weather be favourable, the extent of horizon thus embraced, and the variety of objects brought before the eye, are such as

but the sympathy of "some who were his enemies, and the extraordinary fidelity of his friends, could have saved from a fatal termination."

As a memorial of the ample and summary vengeance which, in the swift course of feudal justice, inflicted by the orders of the Lord Macdonell and Aross, overtook the perpetrators of the foul murder of the Keppoch family, a branch of the powerful and illustrious clan of which his lordship was the chief: This monument is erected by Colonel Macdonell, of Glengarry-xvii. Mac-Mic-Alaister—his successor and representative, in the year of our Lord 1812. The heads of the seven murderers were presented at the foot of the noble chief, in Glengarry Castle, after having been washed in this spring; and ever since that event, which took place early in the sixteenth century, it has been known by the name of " Tobar-nan-ceann," or the Well of the Heads.

[graphic][subsumed][subsumed]

BEN-NEVIS.-FORT WILLIAM.

63

no other of the Scottish Alps can exhibit, and which will long retain a place in the spectator's memory.* On forming an enterprise of this kind, however, caution and an experienced guide are indispensable requisites. A melancholy catastrophe, still fresh in the recollection of many of our readers, occurred while descending this mountain last summer, in which an amiable and accomplished youth was snatched away from his bereaved family in the moment of health, hope, and enjoyment.

Ben-Nevis is particularly interesting to the geologist, and will afford him a wide field for practical study and contemplation. The lower part is composed of micaslate and gneiss: higher up we meet with syenite; beyond this with granite, and on the higher elevations with porphyry, in different varieties.

The obelisk in the fore-ground of the annexed drawing, will be sufficiently explained by quoting the inscription, which is couched in the following terms :— "Sacred to the memory of Colonel John Cameron, eldest son of Sir Ewen Cameron, of Fassifern, Bart., whose mortal remains, transported from the field of glory, where he died, rest here with those of his forefathers. During twenty years of active military service, with a spirit which knew no fear and shunned no danger, he accompanied or led in marches, sieges, and battles, the gallant 92d regiment of Scottish Highlanders, always to honour, almost always to victory; and at length, in the forty-second year of his age, upon the memorable 16th day of June, A.D. 1815, was slain in the command of that corps, while actively contributing to achieve the decisive victory of Waterloo, which gave peace to Europe. Thus closing his military career with the long and eventful struggle, in which his services had been so often distinguished, he died, lamented by that unrivalled GENERAL, to whose long train of success he had so often contributed; by his country, from which he had repeatedly received marks of the highest consideration; and by his SOVEREIGN, who graced his surviving family with those marks of honour which could not follow to this place, him whose memory they were designed to commemorate. Reader, call not his fate untimely, who, thus honoured and lamented, closed a life of fame by a death of glory."

Fort William is a market town, but exhibits little of the activity generally associated with towns so qualified. A quay has been recently built here, and is expected to be of some benefit to the place; but, with a numerous population,

The reader will find a detailed account of Ben Nevis in the "Guide to the Highlands," and New Statistical account. It may be said, without exaggeration, that every point of the horizon is at least one hundred and twenty miles removed from the spectator. On the north-east side is a terrrific precipice, commencing at the summit, and descending to a depth of not less than one thousand five hundred feet perpendicular.

and great lack of employment, it exhibits at present a scene of afflicting poverty, for which it is difficult to foresee a remedy.*

A fort was built here during the usurpation of Cromwell, containing barracks for two thousand troops, and named the "Garrison of Inverlochy," from the ancient castle of that name. In the reign of King William it was rebuilt on a smaller scale, and in compliment to the sovereign received its present name, while the village annexed took that of Mary-burgh, in honour of the queen.. In 1746, this fort, under the gallant conduct of Captain Scott, stood a siege of five weeks against the insurgent army.

Inverlochy Castle, the ancient fortress just named, is distinguished in native tradition as a residence of the early sovereigns of the country, and where the league between Achaius and Charlemagne was ratified.† However doubtful, or even fabulous, the latter circumstance may appear, there is nothing improbable in its having served as a royal residence, at a time when the fittest situation for the king's palace was that which promised the greatest security as a fortress. In this respect the ruins of Inverlochy offer sufficient evidence, by the strength of their position and the capacious area they still occupy, that they were well adapted to afford the kingly recommendations of splendour and security., It consists of a quadrangle, with round towers at the angles, well fortified according to those tactics which did not anticipate the effects of a battering-train. Here, it is said, Banquo, thane of Lochaber, resided in princely state; an event perpetuated by a pleasant walk still bearing his name. The powerful family of Cumming, or Comyn, already named, also possessed it, and have left their name to the western tower. From the opposite side of the lake from which it takes its name, the Castle, backed by stupendous mountain scenery and the wild and rugged opening into Glen-Nevis, appears to great advantage.‡

• Besides the Established Church, Fort William has an Episcopalian and Roman Catholic chapel, a Bible society, excellent schools, and two public libraries—each with a judicious selection of books. There is no prison in the parish-the garrison serving as such when required. In the months of June and November, the place is enlivened by two annual fairs, at which considerable business is transacted.

The present building-constructed, perhaps, on the remains of some more rude and ancient fortress, to which the tradition refers-may be ascribed with more probability to the era of the invasion by Edward I. Like the castle of Urquhart, already mentioned, it presents, in the style and quality of its architecture, abundant evidence of having been the work of engineers well practised in the art of fortification; and if so, the presumption is that it was of foreign construction-one of those garrison forts raised by the English monarch to support his ambitious views in the North. Its similarity to the Welsh castles of the same era gives strength to the conjecture; but it is only by conjecture that the question can be answered. About three miles farther up the banks of the river, situated on the verge of a precipice overhanging the water, which is here confined and interrupted by ledges of rock, are the slight remains of Tor Castle, formerly inhabited by the chiefs of the clan Chattan, who once possessed this country, and in which the "classic" Banquo is said to have also resided.

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