to pasture is partly dry, and partly moist and spongy; and a considerable portion of that which is either flat or hilly, is covered with heath. The summits of the highest hills are generally naked rocks, destitute of all vegetation.

After the "Jurisdiction Act," in 1748, the county underwent many alterations and improvements. Roads were made in every direction; the climate was more studied, and the grain best suited to its peculiarities introduced and cultivated. Villages sprang up; industry received a new impulse, and a favourable change diffused itself over the whole province. This county, however, furnishes but a small proportion of arable land, compared with its mountain pastures, where the breeding of sheep and black cattle is carried on with success, and now forms the principal branch of export. The natural wood with which the district was originally covered, and of which every peat-moss at various depths exhibits gigantic remains, has greatly diminished, but will soon be remedied by those extensive plantations with which the resident proprietors have so liberally enriched and beautified the country. Lime is found in almost every part of the county; and, in Lismore particularly, it forms a durable cement under water, not unlike that of Pozzuoli, near Naples. In Easdale and Ballachulish are excellent slate quarries, with every convenience for export by water. In the limestone and other strata, veins of lead are often met with, which are wrought both in Islay and Strontian. At the latter, a new species of earth*—strontites-was discovered in 1791, by Dr. Hope, whose labours have thrown new light on the science of chemistry, and established for him a lasting reputation among the first philosophers of the age.

Our principal object, however, is the "scenery" of the country; and in this respect Argyll presents a splendid series, in which all the varieties of sea and lake, frith and forest, mountain rocks, castellated ruins, and modern mansions, are brought forward into striking contrast, or harmoniously blended. In every district of the county, but especially on the west border of Loch-long, and on both sides of Loch-goil, the scenery presents unrivalled pictures of alpine gran

• For some time the mineral which contained this earth was considered to be merely a variety of witherite, or carbonate of barytes; and this opinion was adopted by Pelletier, even after he had submitted a portion of it to chemical analysis. Dr. Hope, however, from some peculiarities which he had observed in the action of mineral acids upon the substance in question, strongly suspected the truth of this opinion, and having instituted a series of ingenious experiments, the results fully proved that the mineral from Strontian contained an earth different in its property from every other earth. The mineral from which it is obtained occurs massive and crystalized; but it is generally of a fibrous texture, and of a pale asparagus green colour, although it has sometimes been found transparent and colourless. It is soft, yielding readily to the knife, and showing wedge-shaped fragments. Its specific gravity is 3.675. Dr. Hope's memoir on its properties and combinations, with the detail of his experiments, are printed in the fourth volume of "The Edinburgh Philosophical Transactions."

NATIVE SCENERY.-GLENCO.

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deur and sublimity. The mountains are lofty-precipitous at various points— here covered with natural wood, and there cleft into dark, narrow chasms, through which torrents and cataracts rush down with foaming impetuosity, and fill the solitude with their mingled roar. In other places the mountains are hollowed by natural caves and grottoes-each with its tradition-which have served as the stronghold of outlaws, or the dreary sanctuary of unfortunate chiefs and their adherents. But of these we shall take more particular notice as we proceed.

The scenery of Glenco, through which we now continue our progress westward, is proverbial for the wild sublimity of its features, and never fails to inspire even the most experienced traveller with some degree of awe. As he proceeds under the shadow of its stupendous rocks-rocks that hide their summits in the clouds, and from their scathed sides discharge a multitude of foaming cataracts into the defile-he can hardly believe that the valley could ever have been peopled by civilized beings. The mountains on either hand, protruding forward in solid masses, and checkered with shallow furrows of red connecting clay, exhibit a picture of striking desolation. A shrub, a handful of heath, a few blades of grass, clinging at intervals to these interstices, are almost the only symptoms by which Nature manifests her vivifying influence. Nearer the eye, these occupy a wider space; the crevices are filled with a mossy vegetation, through which the dropping streams ooze forth in sparkling freshness, and, in their progress downward, give life to a few dwarf oaks and birches that shade their wayward course, and, from the moisture thus afforded, imbibe a miserable existence. The highest summits present an aspect of complete sterility, consisting of vast masses of pulverized mica and clay-slate, through which dark isolated rocks start forth at intervals, and in every variety of shape-here, like truncated cones, and there, in serrated edges, or like aiguilles or pointed obelisks, reminding travellers of the Alps. The glen exhibits nearly the same features at both extremities; the same aspect of mingled grandeur and sterility; the same chaos of rocks and frowning precipices which appear to exclude all human intrusion, and to reserve this fearful solitude as an abode for spirits. But as we advance towards the centre, the landscape undergoes a magical change. The pass gradually opens-the bleak rocks seem transformed into masses of rich vegetation, and, at length, a crystal stream-the Cona* of Ossian-is seen gushing in beauty and freshness from its parent lake.

"Their sound was like a thousand streams that meet in Cona's vale, when, after a stormy night, they turn their dark eddies between the pale light of the morning." "The gloomy ranks of Lochlin fell like the banks of the roaring Cona." The roaring stream of Cona."-Ossian.

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The associations which spring up in the spectator's mind, as he enters this extraordinary pass, are very opposite in character. To the reader of Ossian it is classic ground-the hallowed retreat where the heroes of Morven "drew the sword and bent the bow," and presented a stirring theme for the Celtic muse. On the right, is Malmor, a mountain celebrated by Ossian; on the left, Con Fion, or the hill of Fingal. From the evidence afforded by several passages in these poems, Glenco, or the vale of the Cona, appears to have been the birthplace of Ossian,* whose poems have been transferred into all the languages of Europe. Much controversy has taken place among the learned as to their authenticity; but whatever doubts have been advanced, nothing has yet appeared in the way of evidence to diminish their popularity. Napoleon is said to have been a great admirer of the Celtic bard, and to have been familiar with the best of his poems.

But with the poetical associations of Glenco, one of a truly painful nature is ever present to the imagination. As we enter its dreary labyrinth, and recal the atrocious scenes of which it has been the theatre, a congenial gloom steals over the spirit. We are accustomed to look upon every act of "religious persecution" with indignation; we are struck with horror at the bare recital of those atrocities which one body of professing Christians have inflicted upon another. When we peruse the narrative of Leger, our sympathies are powerfully awakened in behalf of his suffering countrymen, and we decide in our own minds that the wanton cruelties, the unheard-of tortures, inflicted upon them by the mercenaries of the Inquisition, have happily no parallels in our own country. But a little reflection-a short retrospect, shows us how much we are mistaken. In this remote glen deeds have been perpetrated which even a Castrocaro,† or a Pianessa, might blush to own ; perpetrated, too, under political sanction-and which have left an imperishable stain upon the government that could recommend, as "a salutary state measure," the crime of assassination. But, without further comment, we shall here introduce such authentic particulars as will place the tragical history in its true light.

Sleeps the sweet voice of Cona in the midst of his rustling hall? Sleeps Ossian in his hall, and his friends without their fame?"-"The chiefs gathered from all their hills, and heard the lovely sound. They praised the voice of Cona, the first among a thousand bards; but age is now on my tongue, and my soul has failed."-" So shall they search in vain for the voice of Cona, after it has failed in the field. The hunter shall come forth in the morning, and the voice of my harp shall not be heard. Where is the harp of Car-borne Fingal?' The tear will be on his cheek. Then come thou, O Malvina, with all thy music -come! lay Ossian in the plain of Luther; let his tomb rise in the lovely field."- Why bends the bard of Cona, said Fingal, over his secret stream? Is this a time for sorrow, father of low-laid Oscar?"Poems of Ossian.

See "Waldenses Illustrated," uniform with the present work.