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fort Gylen are pointed out as the site where Alexander died, and where the Danish monarch assembled his vassals on the eve of his catastrophe. In August, 1746, General Campbell lay in the Sound of Kerrera, waiting instructions from the earl of Albemarle to regulate his conduct respecting the capture of Prince Charles, who was then in concealment at Glendossorie; but, before the general had received his orders, the prince found means to provide for his personal safety by a timely retreat.

The interesting and romantic appearance of the south end of Kerrera is much increased by the view of Goalan Castle. This beautiful and picturesque ruin is perched on the extreme verge of an almost perpendicular precipice, overgrown with thick mantling ivy, which climbs from the bottom of the rock to the very battlements of the fortress; and as the foundations of the building spring from the extreme edge of the rock, the ivy has crept from the one to the other, concealing any little break that might otherwise have appeared, and presenting to the eye on two sides, the rock and the castle, as if forming one solid mass of architecture. On the land side the approach is also very striking; and as the ruins are still in tolerable preservation, a pretty good idea of the original state of the building is obtained. On the front are two stone effigies, called the Piper and the Nurse-two characters of great importance in all Highland families. This castle, once the seat of the lineal descendants of Macdougall of Lorn, the formidable opponent of Bruce, was reduced to its present ruinous condition in consequence of its owner taking part with, and protecting a person named Livingstone, who had killed a son of Campbell of Fauns, and thereby exposed himself to the indignation of that powerful clan. Campbell of Braglin, a man well known in the country for his fierce and determined character, undertook to avenge the death of his fellow-clansman. For this purpose he assembled a band of followers, invaded Kerrera, stormed and burned the castle, committing an indiscriminate massacre on the unfortunate Macdougalls, eighteen of whom were precipitated from the battlements. Among the spoil taken on that occasion was a brooch, which had belonged to Robert Bruce, and had remained for ages in the family. This ancient relic is now said to be in the possession of Macdougall of Dunally; and the history is so interesting, that we shall here briefly advert to the circumstances which render its loss an epoch in Scottish annals. After his defeat at Methven, being hard pressed by the English, Bruce, with the dispirited remnant of his followers, endeavoured to escape from Braidalbane into the mountains of Argyll; but in this attempt he was encountered and repulsed by Macdougall, the lord of Lorn-a repulse, however, which displayed the strength and courage of Bruce

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THE BROOCH.-BRUCE AND LORN.-OBAN.

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in the strongest light. According to the tradition preserved by the family of Lorn, their chieftain engaged in personal conflict with Bruce, while the latter was anxiously covering the retreat of his men. Macdougall was struck down by the king, who was no less remarkable for his corporeal than for his mental vigour, and would have been slain on the spot, had not three of his vassals, named Mac Keoch, father and sons, rescued him, by seizing the king's mantle, and dragging him from above his adversary. But of these Bruce speedily rid himself by his redoubted battle-axe; he was so closely pressed, however, by the other followers of Lorn, that he was forced to abandon the mantle, and brooch which fastened it, in the dying grasp of the Mac Keochs :

"When this brooch, triumphant borne,

Beamed upon the breast of Lorn!"

Oban is a neat, handsome, and beautifully situated village; its appearance from the bay is particularly striking. The houses, drawn out in a semicircle, rise from the water's edge, and with a fine basin in front, and a bold undulating range of mountains behind, present an appearance highly picturesque. During the gay season, when the shore is crowded with spectators, and the bay enlivened with numerous small craft-as happens during the regatta, when the prize is contested by pleasure yachts-the scene becomes doubly animated.

For several years past, Oban has been much frequented during the summer and autumn, and has now a name among the fashionable watering places of the country. In addition to its attractions as an excellent sea-bathing station, it has also several powerful chalybeate and sulphurous springs, lately discovered in the immediate neighbourhood. Here the student of mineralogy, and the admirers of Highland landscape, will find ample means of gratification

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Gazing on pathless glen and mountain high;

Listing, where from the cliffs the torrents thrown

Mingle their echoes with the eagle's cry,

And with the sounding lake, and with the moaning sky."-ScOTT.

All over the coast evident marks of the former height of the sea may be observed in the formation of regular banks, and in excavations of the softer rocks, which it has effected. These are of corresponding elevation, and run along the shores in a direct line as far as the eye can reach. The breccia and

• It appears that great art and expense were formerly bestowed upon the buckle, or brooch, used for securing the plaid, when the wearer was a person of distinction. It was as broad, says Martin, as an ordinary pewter plate, the whole curiously engraved with various animals. A lesser, worn in the middle of the other, was set with precious stones-a larger one in the centre, and smaller ones surrounding it, as observed in the art of modern jewellery.

[blocks in formation]

micaceous schist lie above one another, and proceed together in parallel waving lines. In some instances, the summit of the latter is broken off and shattered to pieces; but all the detached parts of it are uniformly found embedded in the breccia above it. At the northern side of the bay is a rugged point of breccia, near which is a large portion of the same kind of rock, raised on end; and close by this, on a precipitous rock of great elevation, stands Dunally Castle.

Oban is admirably situated for a sea-port; and if it could attract the attention of government, might contribute in no small degree to the prosperity as well as safety of the nation. The bay, varying in depth from twelve to twenty fathoms, and affording anchorage to five hundred sail of merchantmen, is well protected from the westerly winds, and the fury of the Atlantic, by Mull, and other islands adjacent. Its immediate vicinity to the Crinan and Caledonian canals is another advantage which would materially contribute to render Oban a most eligible situation for the establishment of a naval arsenal. The population is still under two thousand, but annually increasing. The inns are excellent. The air of this Highland sea-port is considered of such remarkable salubrity, that Dr. Aldcorn, a physician of distinguished acquirements and experience, has here established a Salutarium for the reception of invalids, to whom change of air and scene, during the summer and autumnal months, has been recommended. As a centre, from which the stranger or invalid may enjoy the greatest variety of excursions, it would be impossible to select a more desirable position. Exercise and recreation are here within the reach of every one; and where that is the case, health is seldom far distant.

"Her bower is by the blue sea wave,

Her temple on the steep."

Dunally Castle, above-mentioned, is an ivy-clad square keep, which formed another of the ancient seats of the Macdougalls of Lorn. It is supposed to have been originally a Danish fort; the walls are of great thickness, but were mutilated by a late proprietor, who removed all the freestone he could quarry from it, to assist in the building of the modern family mansion, which is seen near it. Venerable by its antiquity, "it is somewhat surprising," says a writer who has well described the locality, "that a gentleman very tenacious of the title of chief should destroy this monument of his clan." It may be superfluous to remind the reader, that, around the ancient fastness, the Wizard of the North has waved his magic pencil," and conjured up a living drama* of love and war,

"Lord of the Isles," in which Dunally Castle is erroneously stated" to overhang Loch-Etive ;" and the error is repeated in the last edition, 1836, Note D

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